PDK D15 Assembly Instructions Manual

D15 Assembly Instructions
Chassis Assembly
Take the frames (1) and solder in the axle bushes (2), making one frame L/H and one R/H.
Choose either the 'OO' or 'EM' frame spacers (3) as required, bend as shown on the diagram,
and solder the frames to the spacers making sure everything is assembled square and flat.
Solder an 8BA nut (4) over the hole in the main spacer halfway between the axles, and
another over the hole in the smallest spacer to which the bogie link will be attached. If fitting a
D11 motor screw the motor to the mounting plate (5) using two washers (6) under the screw
head. Put an axle and the Romford gear in the chassis to check the gear mesh, adjust if
necessary, and then fix the mounting plate in place. The D11 motor can be fixed in place
permanently after painting and fitting the wheels. If fitting a Portescap 1219 motor this plate will
not be necessary.
Solder pieces of the 22g wire through the holes in the frames to form the brake gear supports
(7). Now take the brake hangers (15) and solder the brake blocks (16) to them, making L/H
and R/H pairs, then solder the assembled brakes to the support wires (7). Using a driving
wheel and axle make sure they do not touch the wheels. Now fit the brake tie bars (17) and
pull rods (18). Fit the ashpan sides (19) to the underside of the chassis.
Now is the best time to paint the chassis. Spraying with a cellulose primer and then with
cellulose satin or matt black is recommended. Clean out the axle holes with a rat tail file.
Next fit the wheels, axles, gear and crankpins to the chassis, using the four axle washers (8) to
take up any side play. Fit the pairs of coupling rod halves (9) together, place the rods on the
crankpins and check that the wheels revolve freely, and then fit the four small washers (10) to
retain the coupling rods. Put paper between the coupling rods and the washers when fixing to
avoid soldering the rods to the crankpins, and then remove the paper afterwards. Screw the
collector tag (11) to the main spacer using one of the 8BA screws (12) and the two fibre
washers (13). Check that the tag is not electrically live to the chassis, then form current
pickups using some of the 26g handrail wire (14) soldered to the tag.
Turn now to the bogie (21) and fold down the sides at right angles to the centre stretcher, then
solder the two strengthening plates (22) between the frames below each edge of the stretcher.
These two pieces may require slight trimming to fit. Now fix the two large washers (23) on the
underside of the bogie centre. Next fix the dummy equalizing beams (24) to the bogie frames,
so that the axle holes line up. If working in 'OO' the beams should be spaced off the frames
with one axle washer (25) per axle hole. If working in 'EM' two washers between the beams
and the frames should be used. Next fit pieces of 22g wire through the small holes at the front
and back of the bogie to form the tie bars (26). Now take the bogie link and its washer (27),
solder the washer over the smaller end of the link and tap the hole 8BA. Screw the link to the
bogie leaving a small amount of play and shorten the screw so that its end is flush with the top
surface of the link. Paint the bogie and then fit the wheels to the bogie. The bogie can now be
screwed to the chassis using an 8BA screw and the cast pivot (28).
The drawbar (29) and drawbar pivot (30) are fixed to the chassis with the same screw used to
attach the rear end of the chassis to the superstructure.