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APOLLO VIEW RABBIT HOLE Manual

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RABBIT HOLE
DIY BUILD DOCUMENT V1.1

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Summary of Contents for APOLLO VIEW RABBIT HOLE

  • Page 1 RABBIT HOLE DIY BUILD DOCUMENT V1.1...
  • Page 2 (Note: Output Gain is an attenuverter, the minimum Output signal is achieved by setting the knob to the 12 o’clock position) Nominal Eurorack audio levels are 10Vpp. Rabbit Hole can produce peak-to-peak voltage 2.4 times greater than standard Eurorack audio levels. This could potentially damage your speakers and ears.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS SPECIAL THANKS ............................3 INTRODUCTION ............................. 4 ORIGIN ................................4 WHAT IS IT? ................................ 4 TOOLS ................................5 ESSENTIAL ................................5 OPTIONAL ................................5 CONSTRUCTION GUIDE ..........................6 PARTS LIST ..............................7 ASSEMBLY STEPS ............................8 CALIBRATION ............................... 23 MIX &...

  • Page 4: Introduction

    On this journey of experimentation and discovery of tube circuitry and different tube characters, I truly fell down a Rabbit Hole. The module took on a life of its own, revealing more inherent features, namely sub-harmonic generation and self-oscillation.

  • Page 5: Tools

    Tools ESSENTIAL • Soldering Iron - a solder station with temperature control is best. Some components on this build are connected to the ground plane and require a large amount of heat. A low Wattage soldering iron that plugs directly into the power supply will not be good enough to achieve an effective solder joint.

  • Page 6: Construction Guide

    Construction Guide There are already excellent soldering guides in existence, so we will refrain from reinventing the wheel here. If you need some guidance, please check out the Moritz Klein x Erica Synth Build Documents. The soldering appendix is an excellent resource. Or, if you prefer videos, this is a pretty good guide.

  • Page 7: Parts List

    Parts list Component Faceplate Faceplate Screws Front PCB Back PCB Tube Tube Socket Trimmer 100k Side Slot Adjustment Trimmer 100k Top Slot Adjustment 8.2nF Poly Capacitor 68nF Poly Capacitor Standoff Standoff Screws 01 x 17 Pin Header 01 x 17 Pin Socket 01 x 11 Pin Header 01 x 11 Pin Socket Straight Shrouded Power Header...

  • Page 8: Assembly Steps

    Assembly steps Note: when instructed to solder things in place, it is also implied to cut the legs off the components with legs once soldering is complete. This is only capacitors and trimmers. Once the legs are cut, you can apply heat again (and solder if required) from the soldering iron to make an aesthetically pleasing solder joint.
  • Page 9 1. Find the Front PCB. Place the 2x5 pin shrouded power header onto the rear of the Front PCB. Ensure the key slot is towards the bottom of the PCB. Flip the board over and solder in place. 2. Attach the standoffs to the rear of the Front PCB with two M2 screws. Put the other M2 screws to the side for now.
  • Page 10 3. Take the Back PCB. Place capacitors on the face of the Back PCB. The two 68nF in the top two footprints and the two 8.2nF in the bottom top footprints. 4. Place the two 2x3 pin headers in the footprints on the rear of the Back PCB. Flip the board holding them in place (masking tape is your friend here) and solder them in place.
  • Page 11 5. Place the tube socket on the footprint on the face of the Back PCB. Flip the board and solder, and try to ensure the socket is as level (flat against the PCB) as possible, as this affects the final position of the tube. Note: in the picture below, you can see the residue from the flux pen from soldering the 2x3 pin headers;...
  • Page 12 7. Lay the Front PCB face down and lay the pin headers and pin sockets onto the rear of the PCB. Don’t solder yet. Note: we kindly put the pins into the sockets already. We have a convention to place the sockets against the rear of the Front PCB;...
  • Page 13 9. Lay the Back PCB face down on the pin headers. Ensure that the trimmer adjustment screws are poking through the holes on the Back PCB (give everything a wiggle until everything is correctly aligned, this can be a little fiddly, but we have confidence in your skills!).
  • Page 14 12. Unscrew the Back PCB separate the boards, and set the two M2 screws to one side. 13. We will now populate the face side of the Front PCB, starting with the potentiometers for In A, In B and FB, which are all A100k (the potentiometers are clearly labelled with their value).
  • Page 15 14. Next, place B100k in for the Mix and Tone controls. 15. Next place the B500k for the Tube control...
  • Page 16 16. Then place A500k for the Drive control 17. Now place all the B100k tall pots. These can be identified from their blue body.
  • Page 17 18. Populate PCB with Thonkiconn jacks The orientation of adjacent jacks should alternate by 180 When placing jacks, groups of two jacks share the same ground pad.
  • Page 18 19. Screw a nut onto the two SPDT, and the DPDT switches. 20. Place switches with the flat key (on the thread/barrel of the switch) at the bottom. When this step is done, the Front PCB should look as follows (the red line indicates the flat thread/barrel of the switch).
  • Page 19 21. Place on the Faceplate. Take care not to dislodge any components. You will have to begin feeding the faceplate over the Tall B100k Pots, then take care with the switches. The switches should all be in the Up position. 22.
  • Page 20 24. Finger Tighten the black hex nuts first before tightening with 10mm hex driver. 25. Then position and finger tighten the Bananuts onto the jacks. Do the final tightening with the Bananut driver. 26. Then position and finger tighten the switch nuts. Do the final tightening with the 7mm hex driver.
  • Page 21 28. Give all solder joints a quick scrub with a cleaning brush to remove flux. 29. Gently push the tube into the tube socket. 30. Screw the Back PCB onto the standoffs with the M2 screws you put to the side earlier.
  • Page 22 33. Place the power cable into the shrouded header, and we are ready to calibrate.

  • Page 23: Calibration

    1. and soldered the crocodile clip to our multimeter probe; this means the crocodile clip and probe are semi-permanently mechanically and electrically bonded, but at Apollo View Modular, we need this setup for hundreds of these types of measurements.
  • Page 24 We are looking to measure -4.0V with respect to ground from each of the two test points, Mix and Tone. Without the use of the jumper wire and crocodile clip, you would need three hands to complete the process. One hand to hold the probe at the test point, a second hand to hold the common ground probe to the ground pin, and a third hand to hold adjust the trimmer.

  • Page 25: Vca Bleed Calibration

    1. Patch a signal into In A, a low-frequency ≅ 100Hz will do. 2. Patch the Output of Rabbit Hole so you can hear through your system or headphones. Ensure Rabbit Hole Output attenuverter is turned up. Note: this can be either fully clockwise or filly anticlockwise.

  • Page 26: Serial Number

    8. Adjust the trimmer for Gain A (indicated below), so it is fully clockwise. It will click when you have hit the end of the trimmers travel. If you cannot hear any signal, the calibration for this channel is complete skip the remaining steps for this channel 9.
  • Page 27 That’s it; you’re good to go! Please read the manual for more operational info Go make some filthy sounds. Don’t get too lost down the Rabbit Hole!

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