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MARK 8
A pint sized F3P style fully aerobatic 3D aircraft. Small enough to fly in the smallest of backyards, and even your living room! This
rehashing of an old design from the "new depron", giving it the weight advantage of the "old depron" with much greater durability
and damage resistance. Our advanced engineering gives you a high performing airframe with very easy assembly.
Wing span : 16"
Battery: 1S 130-1600mah
Length : 16.5"
Weight RTF w/battery: 30 - 35 grams
Please read and understand all steps to these instructions before beginning assembly. This plane is not a toy and is
potentially dangerous to operate. Children should not operate this aircraft without adult supervision. To start assembly,
gather the required electronic hardware and building supplies. You will need some foam-safe glues, and optional paint.
Look for the recommended electronic hardware at the end of these instructions and painting tips in that section.
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Summary of Contents for Buzzard Models Mark 8
- Page 1 MARK 8 A pint sized F3P style fully aerobatic 3D aircraft. Small enough to fly in the smallest of backyards, and even your living room! This rehashing of an old design from the “new depron”, giving it the weight advantage of the “old depron” with much greater durability and damage resistance.
- Page 2 Supplies and tools - We recommend Foam-Cure from Bob Smith Industries for gluing most of the foam joints, and will work just fine to glue everything with. It remains flexible when cured which helps the durability of the completed airframe. There are certainly other brands of foam glue such as Foam-tac, or UHU por.
- Page 3 Kit contents-...
- Page 4 Hinge beveling - Start by beveling all of the hinges. Use a sharp edge of a table or board to support the foam while doing this. Fold the hinges open, and place over the corner of the table with the hinge side down. Using 120grit paper, bevel the corners of the foam just enough to allow the hinges to flex closed at least 45 degrees.
- Page 5 Picture of hinge flexed closed to 45 degrees - Flex the control surfaces up and down and verify free movement. Sand more if necessary to allow easy and free movement. Do the rudder, elevator, and aileron hinges the same way.
- Page 6 Empennage assembly - With the elevator and rudder hinges beveled and freely flexing, dry fit the carbon fiber reinforcements in place, and then liberally apply a foam safe CA glue with an extender tip. Dabb the excess glue off with a paper towel before it dries. Do the same with the rudder and elevator control horns.
- Page 7 Painting- You can optionally paint now, or after the covering is in place. It is easier to do it now. Basic craft acrylic paint works well if thinned and brushed on conservatively. Makeup brushes work for bigger areas. Alternatively, airbrushing is the best way to paint, alcohol or india inks are ideal, the same basic acrylic paint thinned one-to-one with windshield washer fluid works great through an airbrush.
- Page 8 Assembly - Working on some wax paper, glue the wing to the mid-fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer. Add the 1.2mm carbon mainspar first, the 0.8mm fuselage reinforcements go over the top. Add the 0.8mm aileron reinforcements and aileron horns. Again, dry fit the parts and then add medium foam safe CA. Make sure everything is flat as it dries. CA accelerant can be used.
- Page 9 Covering - Now is the time to cover the parts. Layout the mylar covering on a flat work surface and starting in one corner and working your way around, tape the edges down pulling it just taught enough to remove any wrinkles. Layout where your parts will fit before applying glue.
- Page 10 Trim the covering - With the parts still upside down, trim around their perimeters with a new sharp hobby knife blade over a cutting mat.
- Page 11 Painting - Here is an example of a similar plane that was painted after covering.
- Page 12 Glue it all together - Glue lower fuselage in place.
- Page 13 Receiver and servo install - Carefully glue the 3mm foam receiver doublers in place if using the PRO-BRICK MXL-RX62E. Trim the attachment ears off of the 1.7g BM5320S aileron servo and install it in the direction shown, securing it with glue. The MXL-RX62E can be installed, secure it with small dabs of foam glue in the corners, wait to stuff the power wire up through the fuselage until later.
- Page 14 Pushrod assembly - Overlap the two 1” long zee-bends onto the 11” 0.5mm carbon pushrods as shown, shrink the tubing.
- Page 15 Elevator pushrod install - Slide two of the composite pushrod supports over the pushrod, insert the end with the 1” zee-bend into the smallest hole of the linear servo, be careful the servos are fragile. Install a 5/8" zee-bend into the inner-most hole in the elevator horn.
- Page 16 Assemble aileron servo arm - Locate the composite aileron servo arm and the nylon straight servo arm from the BM5320S 1.7g servo hardware. Sand both mating surfaces flat with 120 grit sandpaper and clean with alcohol. There are two holes in the composite arm that correspond with holes in the nylon arm, pin with two of the 7/8"...
- Page 17 Aileron pushrod install - With everything still flat on the table, install the 2-1/8" pushrods by lapping them over two of the 5/8" zee-bends with heat shrink. Use the outer hole on the aileron servo arm, and the middle holes on the aileron horns. Again, verify that the aileron servo is centered, and shrink the tubing.
- Page 18 Upper fuselage - Find a secure way to support the fuselage, these two foam blocks work great. Glue the upper fuselage in place.
- Page 19 Vertical Stabilizer- The vertical stabilizer can be glued in place, pins can help hold the part in alignment.
- Page 20 Rudder Pushrod - You can now install the rudder pushrod just like you did the elevator pushrod. Trim the two composite supports so that the pushrod runs straight, then glue in place. The 1” zee-bend goes into the smallest hole of the linear servo, the 5/8" zee-bend goes in the innermost hole of the rudder horn.
- Page 21 Rudder Pushrod - 5/8" zee-bend goes in the innermost hole of the rudder horn.
- Page 22 Motor Install - Dry fit the motor mount over the four protruding motor mount pins. When satisfied, glue the mount to the fuselage, and add a drop of glue to the protruding pins. When dry, trim the pins leaving a small glue blob on the front side of the mount to make sure it is secured to the pins, the pins provide the majority of the strength.
- Page 23 Decal Installation - Now is the time to add decals, paint, landing gear, or anything else that will affect the center of gravity. Your kit includes a sheet of water-slide decals. These are used because they are much lighter than vinyl type stickers. Cut the decals out with a sharp hobby knife.
- Page 24 Center of Gravity - The CG will be set using the battery location. Build a CG test stand, use the tips of your fingers, or even the eraser end of two equal length pencils shoved in some styrofoam. A good place to start is having the CG located at the main wing spar, more advanced pilots will like it a little further back.
- Page 25 Battery Mount - With the battery location determined, use the supplied micro zipties to mount the battery. Cut or drill holes on either side of the battery. Route the ziptie around the battery, with the ratchet part of the ziptie on the bottom of the fuselage. Leave the ziptie loose enough so that the battery slides in and out with a desired amount of friction.
- Page 26 Flying Tips - The Mark 8 has very low wing loading and does not like much wind. For your first flight, I would recommend flying either in a large indoor area such as a gymnasium, or wait for a dead calm day outside. Once you get comfortable with the flying characteristics you will be able to fly in much smaller areas, and outdoors in more wind.