Troubleshooting
was a poor seal of the gasket, install a bead of silicon between the guard and the tank once the operating
unit is installed to provide an additional barrier to moisture. Refill the sander with a grit recommended in
chapter 1.
Problem B: Fuse supplying power to the unit is repeatedly blown
Cause: Incorrect size of fuse
The fuse should be a 20A AGC or comparable automotive style standard delay fuse. If a circuit breaker
is used, it should be a 15A model.
Cause: Short in solenoid
If the correct size of fusing is being used and the fuse continues to blow, check the solenoid for a short.
Both solenoids almost never develop shorts at the same time so first you'll want to isolate the fault. We
recommend open up the junction block on the back on one the sander and disconnect the wiring to the
solenoid (the black 12 gauge leads). You can replace the fuse and recheck but it usually just as easy to
check the resistances on the solenoid. Check the resistance between each lead and vehicle ground. This
value should be at least 1000 ohms. If the resistance for both sides is low replace the solenoid. If the
value is only low for one side, the shorted side can be hooked to ground and solenoid will work fine
(usually for years). If both values are ok, check the resistance between the two leads. A bad solenoid will
have a resistance below 1 ohms. (Some cheap multimeters have trouble with large inductive loads like
our solenoids and will give incorrect readings.). If no short is found in the solenoid, inspect the rest of
the wiring for faults.
If a short is found, inspect the solenoid for moisture or corrosion that indicate water contacted the
solenoid. Check the gaskets and bellows for damage and replace if needed to reduce future water
problems. In addition, retighten any loose conduit fittings and check the conduit for damage.
13
Need help?
Do you have a question about the S-N661 and is the answer not in the manual?