Hitachi RASM-2VRE Installation And Setup page 14

Check list after testing
Once the system has been fully tested in both heating and tank modes then it can be set up
to actually run for the customer. The end user should be dissuaded from trying to use the Hi-
tachi Yutaki controller themselves as they may not understand the ramifications of changes
they make. They should be, instead, thoroughly familiarised with the operation of the wireless
control thermostat which is what they will use to set the heating demand.
The important thing for them to know is what the green light is doing. If it is ON then the
heat pump is operating normally. If it is OFF then somebody has turned the heat pump off
and it needs to be turned on again or there is no LCD display then there is a problem and a
fuse has tripped or there is a power interruption. If it turns RED then the unit has a fault and
the unit will display a fault code which they should report to you.
So you should now turn the heat pump off on the controller so the green light is off then go
back into the Menu of the controller and do set up the following.
Go into Installer mode. Now select SYSTEM CONFIGURATION then SPACE HEATING then
CIRCUIT 1 and choose WATER CALCULATION MODE then POINTS
You should have set this up for testing but this is now finished.
When testing is finished we recommend changing this to
Underfloor Heating 35, 30, -5, 15
Modern Radiators 45, 35, -5, 15
Old Fashioned Radiators 52, 40, -5, 15
Now go back out of the menus and turn the heat pump back on without selecting either C1 or
DHW modes first so the heat pump works with both. You can now hand over the system to
the end user.
ALARM CODES
A red light means a fault and will be combined with an alarm code, as below. Pages 14 & 15
list these codes.
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