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Bad Boy 2011 Service Manual
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Bad Boy 2011 Service Manual

Bad Boy 2011 Service Manual

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2011 BAD BOY MOWERS SERVICE MANUAL
This Manual contains general maintenance and service procedures
that may not be specific to your model.
Section 1- Hydrostatic System ............................... Pg. 02
Section 2- Drive Belt ............................................... Pg. 09
Section 3- Engine .................................................... Pg. 11
Section 4- Electrical System .................................. Pg. 19
Section 5- Frame Maintenance ............................... Pg. 24
Section 6- Cutting Deck .......................................... Pg. 36
Section 7- Mowing Tips ........................................... Pg. 45
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  • Page 1: Table Of Contents

    2011 BAD BOY MOWERS SERVICE MANUAL This Manual contains general maintenance and service procedures that may not be specific to your model. Section 1- Hydrostatic System …………………………. Pg. 02 Section 2- Drive Belt ……………………………………….. Pg. 09 Section 3- Engine ……………………………………………. Pg. 11 Section 4- Electrical System …………………………….

  • Page 2: Section 1- Hydrostatic System

    20w50 motor oil in the hydro system. (conventional or synthetic oil may be used) Bad Boy recommends that the hydro oil and filters be changed within the first 50 hours of usage and every 500 hours thereafter or once a...
  • Page 3 (Pup, Lightning, AOS, and Diesel Models) Change hydro oil filters by unscrewing them from the filter head. Fill new filters with 20w50 motor oil before installing. Use only bad boy replacement filters. Using any other filter will result in damage to the...
  • Page 4 (Pup, Lightning, AOS, and Diesel Models) Once the system is refilled with oil, lift rear of mower until tires are off the ground. Start engine, release parking brake, stay clear of moving rear tires, loosen bypass bolt ½ to ¾ turns, move drive arms forward and backward 4 to 6 times slowly.
  • Page 5 (ZT and Outlaw Models) The hydro overflow tank on a zt or outlaw model is located behind the seat. Notice the “full cold” line at the bottom of the tank. Use only 20w50 motor oil in this tank. Conventional or synthetic oil may be used.
  • Page 6 (ZT and Outlaw models) When servicing a mower with a sealed transaxle unit, start by removing the filter skid plate on the bottom of each unit. The skid is held on by three 10mm bolts. Next, remove the filter (Outlaws have one large nut on the filter cover).
  • Page 7 (ZT and Outlaw Models) The check plug is located at the top center of the inside case of each transaxle (outlaw transaxles have this plug on the top). The transaxle can be filled with oil by removing these check plugs from both transaxles and pouring the oil in the hydro overflow tank, located behind the seat.
  • Page 8 (ZT model shown) Once the system is filled with oil, lift rear of mower until rear tires are off the ground. Start engine, release parking brake, stay clear of moving rear tires. Next, pull the neutral bypass levers (located at the rear of the frame, on either side of the muffler), move the drive arms forward and backward 4 to 6 times slowly.

  • Page 9: Section 2- Drive Belt

    SECTION 2: DRIVE BELT Shown above is the AOS/Diesel pump belt tensioner. Tightening the two ¾”jam nuts on the left side will increase the belt tension on all models. Factory setting is about .030” (about the thickness of a credit card) between coils as shown.
  • Page 10 Shown above is a typical pump belt tesioner for ZT, Pup, Lightning, and Outlaw models. Shown above is a typical pump belt layout for most models.

  • Page 11: Section 3- Engine

    SECTION 3: ENGINE Shown above is a Kawasaki engine with the “quick drain” oil drain located on the left side of the engine. Use a flat screw driver as shown to loosen the drain. (Not available on all models)
  • Page 12 Most models have a drain hose installed on the engine, for easier oil changes. All gas engines used by Bad Boy use 10w30 and have an oil capacity of 2 quarts. Bad Boy recommends that the oil and filter be...
  • Page 13 The fuel filter is located in the fuel line about 12” from the carburator on the side of the engine. Note the direction of flow on the side of the filter. Replace once a year.
  • Page 14 Most all models have a vacuum operated fuel pump bolted to the side or top of the engine. The pump has a “fuel in”, a “fuel out”, and a vacuum line coming from the engine block. Fuel flow can be checked here if the pump is suspected to be defective.
  • Page 15 When servicing the fuel system on the CAT Diesel, it is necessary to purge the air from the system by loosening the 9/16” bolt on top of the fuel filter and pumping the fuel bulb (located underneath the radiator) until air bubbles are no longer visible.
  • Page 16 Remove and inspect air cleaner weekly. (more often in dusty conditions). Do not blow filter out with air pressure, this will cause the filter to be filled with tiny holes that will allow dirt to enter. Instead, tap filter on side to remove any debris. Replace at least once a year, more often in dusty conditions.
  • Page 17 Torque the clutch bolt to 50 ft. Lbs. On all models. Retorque at every oil change. (All Models)
  • Page 18 Keep radiator screen clean and free of debris on liquid cooled models. Check screen hourly during dry conditions. Slide radiator screen up to remove.

  • Page 19: Section 4- Electrical System

    SECTION 4: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM On most larger commercial engines (27 hp and up). The 25 amp main fuse is located about 3” from the starter on the engine.
  • Page 20 On smaller commercial and light duty commercial mowers, the 25 amp main fuse is located just behind the battery connected to the starter solinoid.
  • Page 21 Always check the condition of the wiring harness ground cable. The ground is located just inside of the right side fuel tank on most models. Ensure that the ground is connected, clean, and tight. On some models, this wire may be connected to the negative side of the battery.
  • Page 22 Check the condition and connection of the relays located under the seat. Ensure that they are clean and connected. Make sure that wire terminal ends have not been pushed out of the relay block.
  • Page 23 On most models, the red wire coming out of the engine is the charging wire from the alternator. Check for 13.6 - 14.2 volts dc at this wire with engine at full throttle.

  • Page 24: Section 5- Frame Maintenance

    SECTION 5: FRAME For non-suspension models, torque front fork castle nut to 40 ft.lbs. Be sure to spin the fork while torquing the nut to ensure that no bearing damage is done.
  • Page 25 Be sure to reinstall the cotter pin into the castle nut. Always try to go tighter on the nut to find a castlation for the pin to fit in. Never back the bearing tension off after torquing the nut, this will “spring” the bearing cage.
  • Page 26 Pictured above is the bearing assembly for mowers equipped with suspension 2009 and newer. This setup requires a torque of 53 ft lbs. Never back the bearing tension off after torquing the nut, this will “spring” the bearing cage.
  • Page 27 Torque rear wheel lugs to 65-75 ft.lbs. Retorque at every oil change. (All models)
  • Page 28 There is one grease fitting in each front wheel and one in each front caster bearing housing. Grease at every engine oil change.
  • Page 29 There is one grease fitting on each of the actuator bar pillow blocks located under the fuel tanks. Grease twice a season.
  • Page 30 The pump belt tensioner is located under the engine and has a grease fitting at its pivot point. Grease at every engine oil change.
  • Page 31 The deck belt tensioner is located at the rear of the deck and has a grease fitting on its pivot point. Grease at every engine oil change.
  • Page 32 The control arm blocks have grease fittings located on the top and bottom of each block. Grease one time a year.
  • Page 33 When adjusting the tracking on the mower, the length of the pushrods can be changed by screwing the swivel joint in or out on the ends of the rods. Shortening the overall length of the rod slows the pump down. Lengthening the rod will increase the speed of the pump.
  • Page 34 On commercial models, the reaction of the hydro pumps and the resistance felt in the control arms can be adjusted by moving the pushrods or the dampeners up or down in the mounting holes. Moving dampeners up, less resistance. Dampeners down, more resistance. Moving pushrods up, slower reaction.
  • Page 35 To service the parking brake system, the rear brake assembly requires a hub puller to remove the brake drum as shown above. The axle nut must be replaced and torqued to 200 ft.lbs. Be sure to reinstall the cotter pin. (Not on MZ, ZT, or Outlaw models)

  • Page 36: Section 6- Cutting Deck

    SECTION 6: CUTTING DECK To remove the deck belt, lift up on the belt while rotating the pulley to roll the belt up and off of the pulley. (be sure not to get your fingers between belt and pulley).
  • Page 37 To check the level of the deck, start on a flat surface and set the air pressure in all four tires. Raise the deck up, and measure all four corners of the deck to see if it is level from left to right and front to back.
  • Page 38 If deck adjustments are necessary, start with the chain length adjusters. These adjusters affect the overall hieght of the deck and the level from left to right. (Not on MZ models)
  • Page 39 The large turn buckles on the front of the deck only affect the pitch of the deck or the level from front to back. (Not on Outlaw models)
  • Page 40 The deck spring tension is critical. If the tension is too much, it will cause the spring to break. If too loose, the belt can jump off or slip on the pulleys and cause a cut quality issue. With the deck up, the spring coil gap should be about .025”...
  • Page 41 On an AOS/Diesel model, additional deck belt adjustments can be made by sliding the rear “v” idler pulleys up or down in their slots.
  • Page 42 The condition of the blades can drasticly affect the cut quality of the mower deck. Replace as necessary. These blades were used considerably too long. Resharpening is recommended by professionals only to determine when the blade needs to be replaced and because of the need for rebalancing.
  • Page 43 To change blades, it may be easier to use a piece of wood to keep the blade from turning so that the bolt can be loosened. Retorque the blade bolts to 90 - 110 ft.lbs.
  • Page 44 The blade spindles contain a sealed ball bearing in the top and bottom of the spindle. The bearings are replaceable for a more cost effective repair.

  • Page 45: Section 7- Mowing Tips

    Mowing tips: Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower beds first. Make • them wide enough that you can turn the mower around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8 the width of the mower's deck.
  • Page 46 Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like after mowing with a • sharp blade. Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a dull mower blade. • Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the mower blade is not •...
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