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e. Tightly twist the twin Yellow leads from the PT, trim tin and attach to main PCB nodes TX4 and TX3.
f. Trim, tin and solder the PT's Grey and Purple leads to the "7/15 Watt" switch.
g. Trim, tin and solder the PT's Black lead to the On/Off switch.
h. Trim, tin and solder the PT's Green lead to main PCB node TX2.
i. Trim, tin and solder the PT's Brown lead to the I.E.C. tab as indicated in the illustrations.
j. Reconnect all Yellow & Black plug-in leads onto the main PCB, including the lamp's connector.
k. Re-connect the Volume, Tone, Gain and Output Jack's fasteners – but not the knobs, yet.
l. Re-attached the tube retainers and tubes into their sockets.
Triple-check your work. Go over it with a "fine-tooth comb" comparing it with the manual's diagrams. Once
you are absolutely sure that everything is correct. It is time to plug the amp into a Variac (see appendix) and
test your handiwork.
After you have successfully powered the amp up using a Variac and verified it is working, Loctite the
transformers and the main PCB's retaining screws, re-attach the top and bottom covers, and press-fit the
knobs back onto the front panel.
Congratulations! You're done!
Be sure to read and follow these helpful hints and tips!
Tech
hint: The main PCB is double-density board – with separate circuits etched on the top and the
bottom layer. It is sometimes easier to solder to the top of the board than the bottom, especially if the
eyelets have been damaged in the de-soldering of the components you've removed.
Tip: Use parts trays to hold the parts as you are disassembling the amp.
Tip: When removing components from the PCB, remove all of the old solder from the holes. Also, use
an electronics-approved contact cleaner to clean the board after the initial parts removal and then again
after you've made all of the upgrades (but before the PCB is bolted back into the chassis).
Note: On some "Tiny
"spring loaded." The clips won't just pull off – you have to pull back the clear plastic sheathing, and using
a tiny screw driver (or something similar) push the retaining metal "lip" in while pulling off the clip.
Versions of the
"Tiny
Terror": There are currently four
versions of the "Tiny
Terror." The original (Version 1)
was a relatively limited run and rare. Version 2 can be
identified by the "Made in Korea" marking on the back
of the amp. Version 3 can be identified by the "Made in
PRC" (Republic of China) marking on the back and the
marking "ORA-PC211-X" (where "X" is "1," "2" or "3") on
the main PCB. Version 4 is also "Made in PRC" and has
the marking "ORA-PC211-4" on the main PCB.
Note: The this manual is divided into two sections, one for
Versions 1, 2 & 3 and another for Version 4.
Orange "Tiny
Terror" • Mercury "Holy Terror" Upgrade Kit
This project and its documentation is the result of technical investigations made by the engineering staff of Mercury
Terrors" that the retaining clips of the leads (primarily from the transformers) are
the furnishing of these documents does not constitute an expresed or implied license to use such materials.
Magnetics. The disclosure of the information herein may pertain to proprietary rights and
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