Related Manuals for 3DUpFitters Prusa i3 MK2
Summary of Contents for 3DUpFitters Prusa i3 MK2
- Page 1 Prusa i3 MK2/3/3S Enclosure Kit Installation Manual 4.0 October, 2020 Copyright 2020 3DUPfitters LLC...
- Page 2 This page intentionally left blank. Copyright 2020 3DUPfitters LLC...
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Page 3: Before You Start
Before you Start Is This Manual for Your Kit? This installation manual covers the R3 enclosure design for the Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S/MK3/ MK3S enclosure. If you have the Prusa MMU or Prusa Mini enclosures this is NOT the right manual. - Page 4 Don’t Panic If You See This! If you can’t see through the plastic, please don’t panic! What you’re seeing is just the plastic or paper protective covering. You, dear customer, are way too smart to think the plastic is flawed and then call and email us over and over again leaving increasingly irate messages.
- Page 5 Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But Were Afraid to Ask Screw Tool Needed Usage Relative Size 30-50mm Attach fan/filter, attach large Hex Cap 3mm Hex Wrench front latch mounts Head 12mm Hex 3mm Hex Wrench Connectors, hinges Cap Head 16mm Hex Knobs, small latch mounts on 3mm Hex Wrench...
- Page 6 Assemble Panels 1. The Front Door Each of the corners on the enclosure will be held together by the connectors pictured below. There are only two versions L and R, which can be identified by the letters stamped on the inside. The diagonally opposite connectors are identical, i.e. Bottom Right is the same as Top Left.
- Page 7 View from Outside the Front The front door is designed so that the latch is on the left. Attach the corner connectors on the inside of the door frame using the provided cap head 12mm screws. The top of the connector should be flush with the top of the acrylic.
- Page 8 Now that the latches are mounted it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate comes with a squishy adhesive covering the same size of the plate. Carefully attach the adhesive side to the acrylic at the location of each latch. Then, adjust the width of the metal strike plate so that it is held on by the pressure of the two sides of the plate.
- Page 9 3. Assemble Back The four corner connectors are mirror images of the front. On each side are “mid panel corner connectors”, which are basically simple L- shapes for added strength. The large 60mm hole is either for the included fan by itself, an air filter (purchased separately)/fan combo, or it can be covered up by a plastic disk depending on how much air flow you want.
- Page 10 The back should look like the illustration to the right when you’re finished. 4. Attach Right Side The purpose of the vent on the right side is to bring cooler air to the power supply to increase its longevity under heavy use. With the fan and/or carbon filter in place cold air will be drawn in through the power supply, both cooling the power supply and heating the air as it enters.
- Page 11 5. Attach Top Before you tackle the top, now is a good time to install the cross beam that adds support to the top in case you want to put the spool holder on top. (See beam circled in red in the illustration to the right.) It should just slide into the slots as shown before you attach the top.
- Page 12 6. Sealing Gaps Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to make sure that each of the panels is held tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount of play that allows you to make small adjustments for the perfect fit. 1.
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Page 13: Spool Holder
7. Plugging Things In There are a couple of things to plug in: the Prusa itself and the fan. The old style silver Power Supply Unit just plugs in through the vent. If, instead, you are using the newer black power supply then the power cable goes through the grommet in back. - Page 14 9. Thermometer The optional thermometer will let you know approximately what temperature it is inside the enclosure. It attaches to the left side of the door piece using the same hole as the top-most corner connector as shown. It comes with a longer screw to fit through everything.
- Page 15 If the maximum internal temperature is the goal, then being airtight also doesn't help since the main cause of heat loss is through conduction through the sides of the enclosure, not through small amounts of air loss. A bottom doesn't help either since while heat doesn't rise, hot air does, and thus almost all of the heat of an enclosure is at the top.
- Page 16 Perfect Enclosure Printing with PLA Since PLA is perfectly happy at room temperature, the only reason to enclose it is for improved indoor air quality. PLA typically prints with a bed temperature of 60C, so it's going to heat the enclosure less than ABS right off...
- Page 17 The other part of the equation is the printer design. Those printers where the hot end is at the top of the enclosure make it easier to achieve higher temperatures because the hot air rises to the top, and the vertical hot end position is fixed. Those printers with the hot ends at the bottom are always going to have more problems managing temperature simply because the temperature is more likely to vary as the hot end goes from the bottom to the top of the enclosure.
- Page 18 Start with the 30mm Prusa foot variation on Thingiverse. Using your favorite STL editor you can add 2mm to the right. Then purchase these bumpers to place on the bottom of the feet, and your Prusa will be quieter than ever AND match the vent hole on the enclosure.