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Related Manuals for Factory SCX-60CF
Summary of Contents for Factory SCX-60CF
- Page 1 SCX – 60CF K 026 CONVERSION KIT INSTRUCTION MANUAL Version 1.0 SCX – 60CF CONVERSION KIT...
- Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS SC10 Disassembly………………………………………………………..Bag A – Transmission Assembly………………..……………………….. 12 Bag B – Nose Piece………………………………………………………... 22 Bag C – Front End ………………………………………………………… 24 Bag D – Transmission Installation…….…………………………………... 27 Bag E – Rear Suspension Installation……………………………………. 31 Bag F – Top Deck…………………………………………………………… 36 Bag G –...
- Page 3 G) Throughout this manual the names of many parts are followed by a number in parenthesis. This is the X Factory or AE part number. H) To photograph this manual, we assembled the truck several times. In some photos, parts you have already assembled are “missing.”...
- Page 4 THANK YOU SPEEDY DAD Chris “Speedy Dad” Krieg designed the SCX – 60CF, made & assembled the first prototype (#0), engineered changes, made and assembled the second prototype (#1), and gave us the C.A.D. Chris, we hope you like how your baby has turned out! CARE AND FEEDING OF CARBON FIBER Throughout your Kit we have deliberately cut the bolt holes in the CF parts on the small side for a good tight fit.
- Page 5 You are much more than a customer at X Factory. You have become a member of a world-wide Family of R/C racing enthusiasts who love working on their cars, trying new things, and helping others at the track.
- Page 6 SC 10 DISASSEMBLY GENERAL Remove the body and wheels. We suggest you store the body clips by re- installing them in the mounts, and the wheel nuts by putting them back on the axles. We will not insult you with photos for the first few instructions… Remove the gear cover.
- Page 7 Remove the nerf bars by unscrewing the four button head screws from beneath the chassis. Then use a flat blade screw driver to pry up from the bottom. Save the bars & screws for re-use. From beneath the chassis, remove the four cap head screws which hold the nerf bar to the front bumper.
- Page 8 Remove the three flat-head screws and counter-sink washers which hold the top plate to the chassis. The entire front end and steering assembly should now come off the SC 10 as a unit. Save the assembly, screws & washers for re-use. REAR END Remove the four aluminum cap head screws that hold the rear body mount.
- Page 9 Remove the long bolt and captured nut that hold the two pieces of the bumper together. These will not be used. Remove the long bolt (long arrow) which goes through the transmission and holds the bumper brace. Loosen the three remaining bolts (short arrows) that go through the transmission into the motor plate, and twist...
- Page 10 Remove and save the upper shock mount shock bolts and bushings. Twist the camber link inner ball cups off their ball studs, then remove the ball studs. Leave the camber links attached to the hub carriers; save the ball studs and any washers that were under them. Remove the rear hub carriers with the C.V.D.
- Page 11 Remove the 5-40 nut which secures the slipper assembly, and pull off the nut, spring retainer, spring, outer slipper plate, outer slipper pad, spur gear, inner slipper pad, and inner slipper plate. Put away the spur gear, then save all the other slipper parts for re-use.
- Page 12 We’ve got all the parts in front of us, so let’s build the tranny. BALL DIFFERENTIAL The SC10 diff uses metric outdrives and the X Factory 4-Gear transmission uses the U.S. measurement, so we’ll re-build the whole thing now. Hold the outdrive with the T-nut (AE6575) in one hand and insert the Allen driver through the white protector cap (AE6575) and into the head of the diff thrust bolt (AE6573).
- Page 13 You can use both sides of the rings, so if one side has not been used, flip them over. Carbide diff balls like X Factory’s #6500 are much harder than the rings, so one set of balls should last through several sets of rings.
- Page 14 Install the spring and T-nut into the male outdrive. Be certain the lugs on the T-nut engage properly in the slots of the outdrive. Set aside until A10. Check the thrust washers for wear. They wear just as the diff rings do, and are also reversible.
- Page 15 A10) Now slide the male outdrive from step A7 into the female outdrive assembly from step A9. Slide the diff bolt through the male ourdrive and screw it into the T-nut. Do not tighten very much yet. See A11 below. A11) As the bolt begins to tighten, stop every revolution or two, remove the wrench, and rotate the two outdrives at the same time in opposite directions while pushing them together (left photo).
- Page 16 ASSEMBLE THE SCX – 60CF TRANSMISSION A13) Remove the transmission case (XF5001) from Bag A and separate the two halves. Note the small round ejector pin bosses on the mounting tabs. You may wish to file these flat for ease of installation in the truck.
- Page 17 A16) Gather together the idler gear from the SC10 (AE9360) along with its 3/16” X 3/8” bearings (XF6202) and shaft (XF5201) along with the same parts from bag A so you have two gears, two shafts, and four bearings. Install a bearing into each side of both idler gears.
- Page 18 This grease is to seal out dirt, not to lubricate anything, so be thorough but don’t over-do it. Other Team drivers have discovered that the X Factory 4-Gear transmission case seals so tightly that they do not use the grease. It’s your choice.
- Page 19 A22) The X Factory 4-Gear motor plate (XF1232) has two “extra” holes (left photo) which are useful to install the optional ES008 heatsink and fan.
- Page 20 SLIPPER INSTALLATION A24) Install a slipper plate onto the top shaft, flat side out. The flats inside the plate will key to the flats on the shaft. A25) Put a slipper pad on the 78 tooth spur gear supplied in your Kit – the larger one from the SC10 will not fit.
- Page 21 A27) Install the spring on the shaft so it goes around the slipper plate’s hub, then place the black retainer over the spring, flat side up. Install the 5-40 nut to hold it all together, tightening until there is one thread of the shaft showing.
- Page 22 BAG B NOSE PIECE Thread the four 4-40 X 5/8” flat head screws up from the bottom of the chassis through the outside front holes. Place the nose bridge spacers (XF1531) over the screws from B1 above. Place the nose bridges (XF 1530 long arrows) over the spacers & screws and secure with locking nuts (XF6071 short arrows).
- Page 23 Turn the chassis over and put the nose piece in place. Secure to the nose bridges with four 4-40 X 1/2” cap head screws (XF6002). From above the chassis, place locking nuts on the two rear screws that hold the nose piece (short arrows).
- Page 24 BAG C FRONT END ASSEMBLY FRONT DECKS If you use thread lock, put drops in the bottom holes of the front top deck supports. Insert four 4-40 X 3/8” flat head bolts up from under the chassis and attach the front top deck supports (XF1400) to the top of the chassis. We suggest you locktite these screws.
- Page 25 FRONT END & BUMPER Place the complete SC10 front end on the nose piece so the AE top deck (AE9566) is above the front decks and ready to screw into the stand-offs. It doesn’t matter what order you use to screw in the front end assembly; we find it easiest to put the two 4-40 X 5/8”...
- Page 26 Position the nerf bar over the front brace and on the bumper surface just as it was on the SC10 and secure it with the four 4-40 X 3/8” cap head bolts you saved. That’s it – front end is done!
- Page 27 BAG D TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION If you use thread lock, do the two tapped holes of the hinge pin brace. Put two 4-40 X 3/8” flat head screws up from the bottom of the chassis to install the hinge pin brace. Put two 4-40 X 1”...
- Page 28 When installed properly, the brace and cradle look like this. ONWARD TO THE TRANSMISSION! Install the motor plate brace (XF1130) with two 4-40 X 3/8” flat head screws coming up from under the chassis. Leave them finger tight for now. Note that the brace is offset to the left. Install the rear bulkhead (XF1310) onto the rear of the transmission cradle with a 4-40 X 1/2”...
- Page 29 using the 0.060” shims. Place the four shims on the four posts of the cradle and put the transmission into the cradle. Be sure the shims stay in place (bottom photo) and the motor plate lines up correctly with its bracket (right photo). We’ll do the easy one first.
- Page 30 D11) Place a flat washer over a 4-40 X 3/8” screw, put the screw on your wrench, and fit it down between the transmission and the motor plate to secure the left front tab. Be sure the shim is in place (left photo). Now tighten both bolts and both nuts.
- Page 31 BAG E REAR SUSPENSION Install a 3/8” ball stud in the land on each side of the bulkhead. Here we have used the outer, #2 holes. We suggest you place a flat washer and #4 nut under the stud to reduce stress on the bulkhead. Take the control arms (XF3012) from Bag E and remove the gurfelmurgles.
- Page 32 Let’s do the left arm first. Check the set-up sheet and tuning section to determine whether you will mount the hubs rear, middle, or forward. Here we show the middle position. Begin sliding the hinge pin through the outer end of the control arm, and place one shim on the pin. Put the right hub carrier on the hinge pin.
- Page 33 Repeat steps E4 – E7 to install the left hub carrier on the right arm. INSTALL THE ARMS We are using a new build sequence for this operation. Place the hinge pin bushings (XF6142) in their slots in the hinge pin brace. E10) Place the hinge pins into the bushings.
- Page 34 E12) Slide the control arms on the hinge pins. Shock mounting holes to the rear. E13) Check the set-up sheet and tuning section to determine which toe-in bar (XF3211) you will use. Select the 3 or 4 toe-in bar and slide it onto the hinge pins.
- Page 35 E16) Secure the toe-in bar and shims with two 4-40 X 1/2” flat head screws up from under the chassis. The screws go in the rearmost chassis holes, through the shim packs, and thread into the toe-in bar. E17) Be certain the dogbones are in the outdrives, then snap the ball cups over the ball studs.
- Page 36 BAG F TOP DECK If you use thread lock, put a drop in the four bottom holes of the rear top deck supports. Placing 4-40 X 3/8” flat head screws up from under the chassis, bolt on the two rear top deck supports (XF1311) as shown. If you use thread lock, put a drop in one end of each stand-off.
- Page 37 Assemble the antenna mount (XF9001) to the top deck (XF1501). The bottom of the top deck is the side with two counter-sunk holes which are used if you have the DDP023 transmission brace (left photo). If you have the brace, put the bracket on the top deck using these holes. For the antenna mount, use two 4-40 X 1/2”...
- Page 38 BAG G REAR SHOCKS, BUMPER, BODY MOUNT REAR SHOCKS You may want to use a bit of sandpaper to de-bur the bumper mount. It is made of Delrin, so you can dye it if you want. Install the bumper mount (XF8360) and rear shock tower (XF3014) with four 4-40 X 5/8”...
- Page 39 Check the Set-Up Sheet and Tuning Section again, then install the shock bottom with the 4-40 cap head screw you took out. Don’t forget the bushing! Here we are using the #2 hole. We will install the nerf bars on the opposite side – right bar on the left side, left bar on the right.
- Page 40 Use the two 3/8” spacers and two 4-40 X 3/4” cap head screws to install the body mount to the bumper mount. The body mount extends to the rear now. Remove the upper bumper mounts from the bumper. Save the screws, Notice that the lower bumper mount is pointing up (left photo).
- Page 41 G10) Cut off the top bumper mounts just above the middle mounting hole. We leave the gusset on the mount. If you use a rotary tool for this, always wear safety goggles. G11) Re-install the top bumper mounts just as they came off using the same bolts. You can throw away the front part which you cut off.
- Page 42 INSTALL THE ELECTRONICS Photos in this section are of Paul’s truck fresh from the 2012 Motorama race. EL1) Check the Tuning Section and set-up sheet to determine where you will install the servo. We offer two different locations, forward and back. Here we have used the forward mounting holes.
- Page 43 EL4) Install the motor on the motor plate using the two 3mm screws you saved. Check the set-up sheet to determine which pinion you will use and install the correct one, tightening the set screw securely. Slide the motor in its slots until the pinion is meshed securely with the spur;...
- Page 44 FINAL SET-UP AND PREP ELECTRONICS Now that the truck is built and electronics installed, it’s time to make certain it runs straight and well. First, familiarize yourself with the set-up procedures of your various electronics: how to bind the receiver to the radio transmitter, how to set the speed controller to the radio, and how to adjust the steering settings on your transmitter.
- Page 45 BREAK IN THE DIFF We’re ready to run now, right?! Not Quite. The next thing to do is break in the differential. This is exceedingly important to the truck’s performance and diff life. With the truck all prepped as above, install a charged battery and put the car back on its stand with the rear wheels off the ground.
- Page 46 RACE PREPARATION The 5 Ps: Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance. You want a well-built car when you arrive at the track, but top drivers also have a routine before every run to make sure the car’s settings are consistent each time out. This makes sure the car on the track is indeed what you want, and any performance difference is the result of deliberate changes.
- Page 47 TUNING SECTION ABOUT ADJUSTMENTS R/C race trucks, in general, are some of the most adjustable racing machines of any scale. What’s really amazing is just how easy and quick it is to make all of our changes: remove a ball stud to change roll center, one screw to change springs, or tape in some weight to change the truck’s distribution.
- Page 48 The initial disadvantage of the mid-motor concept was a lack of forward bite out of corners, especially on slick tracks. X Factory designed the 4-gear transmission to help solve this problem: by turning the motor so it rotates in the same direction as the wheels, the motor itself helps transfer weight to the rear under acceleration, dramatically increasing forward bite.
- Page 49 slippers is the ease of adjustment: have a friend take a ¼” wrench out to the track, and a few brief pit stops later you can have the truck completely dialed. Adjusting the differential for track performance is a tougher science, especially since the adjustment window is pretty small –...
- Page 50 “pop” better over jumps. TRANSMISSION HEIGHT The SCX – 60CF features X Factory’s adjustable-height transmission. While not the easiest adjustment, it’s a very powerful tuning tool to adapt the truck to different surfaces.
- Page 51 Raising the transmission will give your truck more forward bite. It effectively stiffens the rear of the truck, which means the truck will break loose sooner in corners and will bounce more over washboards or small bumps. A softer rear shock package is generally recommended when running the transmission high.
- Page 52 Camber links are one of the more complicated adjustments on any R/C vehicle, and your SCX – 60CF is no different. On X Factory’s set-up sheets, the inside hole groups are referred to by numbers, and the outside holes are called by letter. The more inside the hole is, the lower the value.
- Page 53 Camber links adjust the truck’s roll centers – points critical to understanding how the suspension and chassis will roll through a corner. Without going through the geometry here, remember this: the shorter and more angled down the camber links are (inside lower than the outside), the higher the roll centers are.
- Page 54 Changing the spring rate is pretty easy: change the springs. In general, stiffer springs will make the truck feel more direct and jump a little better; they’re suitable for high traction surfaces. Softer springs are better for bumpier surfaces, and can help generate traction on low-traction tracks.
- Page 55 You can tune the flex in your SCX-60CF by loosening or removing some of the screws in the top deck. For more rear traction on bumpy, loose, or slick surfaces, you can remove the two rear-most screws in the top deck and/or the motor plate’s T-shaped...
- Page 56 This gets back to the racing ideal we started with: lock down the chassis and let the suspension and shocks do the work. Like the rest of X Factory’s Kits, your SCX-60 CF will fit the transmission brace hop-up for the ultimate high-traction situation.
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