Related Manuals for ARC Audio M-PAK 14CX
Summary of Contents for ARC Audio M-PAK 14CX
- Page 2 Table Of Contents 1. Remove the Seat 2. Remove the rear Tank Bolts 3. Remove the Front Tank Bolts 4. Disconnect the Fuel Line 5. Tank Removal Special Note: Brake Lines 6. Expose the Harness 7. Power Harness 8. Exposing the Battery 9.
- Page 3 16. Speaker Enclosure Bottom Fasteners 17. Enclosure to Fairing Fasteners 18. Enclosures to Radio Bracket Fasteners 23 Note; CB Radio Equipped Bikes 19. Trim the Enclosure Alignment Pins 20. Connecting the New Speakers. 21. Prepping the Harness 22. Relocate the GPS Antenna 23.
- Page 4 1. Locate the Philips head screw at the back of the seat and remove it being careful not to drop it. This will free the back of the seat. Raise it slightly and slide the seat toward the back of the bike until it comes free.
- Page 5 2. Remove the 2 bolts at the back of the tank under the seat. Don't drop them down by the battery. You will need them later.
- Page 6 3. Remove the 2 bolts at the front of the tank. These are under rubber covers that must be removed first.
- Page 7 4. To disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank, locate the quick disconnect fitting on the left side of the tank. Push up on the chrome plated portion of the connector. Work the black elbow fitting free while holding the chrome fitting in the up position.
- Page 8 5. Short Cut. While it is advisable to remove the chrome "Dash Board" from the tank and fully disconnect all wires and lines attached, you can carefully swing the tank around and set it in the seat position. A great deal of care must be taken to insure nothing is scratched or damaged.
- Page 9 If your bike does not have these it is recommended that you contact your local dealer and find out if it is necessary. If they are present they must be replaced exactly as they are. ARC Audio takes no responsibility for this modification.
- Page 10 6. Remove the black plastic cover off the top of the wire cover on the back bone of the frame. No tools here, just work it loose from the tabs. Lay the Provided HD Power Upgrade Harness in with the rest of the wires.
- Page 11 7. This is what it should look like before you put the cover back on. At this point you can reverse the process, putting the cover back on and putting the tank back in place and secure all the hardware tightly. Don't forget the fuel line. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it is securely connected.
- Page 12 8. Remove the 2 highlighted bolts. You may find it helpful to remove the control module (the one with 3 big plugs on it) on top of the battery cover. Slide the battery cover forward as far as possible. There is a metal tab at the front that it ahs to clear before it can be lifted...
- Page 13 9. You have now exposed the top of the battery. The 2 ends of the power harness with the metal ring terminal can now be connected to the battery at this location. Take extra care when working around the positive (+) battery terminal. You should always wear safety glasses when working with the battery.
- Page 14 Whoops! Did you forget to remove the fuse? Only install the fuse after ALL your connections to the battery and the amplifier are complete. There is a risk of significant damage and even fire if you forget this step.
- Page 15 10. Remove the 4- T25 Torx head screws at the inside edge of the inner fairing. Note: it maybe necessary to remove the fog lights it equipped.
- Page 16 11. Remove the 3- Philips head screws below the windshield. Warning: The outer faring is loose and ready to remove. Don't let it fall. It maybe helpful to leave the center (long) screw in place and loose until you are ready to remove the fairing and windshield.
- Page 17 12. Gently pull the outer fair toward you. You will need to lean over the fairing and locate the headlight wiring harness. Discon- nect the headlight harness and let it hang. If no aftermarket ac- cessories have been added, you can now remove the fairing. Set it is a safe, out of the way location where it will not be dropped or damaged...
- Page 18 1, 2, & 3 13. This is what you should see when you outer fairing is re- moved. To access the speakers you will need to remove the 8 fasteners that secure the speaker enclosures to the inner fair- ing. Note: These enclosures are a structural part of the fairing. All the fasteners must be use and tight when reinstalling the speaker enclosures.
- Page 19 14. Disconnect speaker wiring harness and pop its fastener free from the enclosure. On the right hand side you will need to pull the power port (cigarette lighter) harness off the power port.
- Page 20 15. Remove the 2- T25 Torx head screws that retain the vent assembly and remove it by pulling it forward.
- Page 21 16. Remove 3-7/16" screws (1, 2 and 3). These are an incredi- ble pain to remove. There is a large wiring harness in the way and they are almost impossible to see. Using a 1/4" drive deep socket was the easiest solution for me. A Universal and socket and long extension may work even better if you have it.
- Page 22 17. Remove 3-3/16" Allen head screws (4, 5 and 6). Nothing special here. You may find a small magnet useful for remov- ing screw 6.
- Page 23 18. Remove the 2-5/32" Allen head screws (7 and 8). The en- closure is not free and ready to be removed. NOTE: Some models are equipped with CB radios. You will need to remove 1 screw retaining this module to remove the left side en- closure.
- Page 24 The enclosure should be loose and come off freely. If the enclo- sure does not come off easily don't force it, repeat these steps and insure you have fully re- moved all fasten- ers. Repeat steps 1 through 4 on the left side.
- Page 25 19. After removing the stock speakers, trim any alignment pins on the mounting surface flush with the face of the enclosure.
- Page 26 20. Plug in the new speakers using the original factory con- nectors. Note: There are 2 sizes of connector. Use the larger, black connector on the larger speaker terminal re- gardless of the wire color. We have compensated for this elsewhere in the wiring har- At this point you can begin the ness.
- Page 27 21. You now need to assemble the speaker harness. Just plug the adapters to the ends of the harness, matching the connectors with their appropriate mate. Make sure the insulating covers are firmly in place. A shorted wire here will shut down or possible damage the system. Note: The wire colors will not match.
- Page 28 22. You will need to relocate this antenna module if it is equipped with GPS. It is attached with double stick tape. Pop it off and move it up on the bracket to the right.
- Page 29 P&A 23. This also happens to be the approximant location of the wire we will use for remote turn on. The service manual calls this a "P&A" connector and it is intended to power or trigger accessories like this. There will be an empty plug in the end that will need to be removed.
- Page 30 24. Attach the amplifier to the top of the amplifier bracket using the large Velcro pad. You only get 1 shot with this stuff so be careful.
- Page 31 25. Connect the power harness from the battery to the 3 screw terminal block on the end of the amplifier. You did remember to remove the fuse from the harness right? The Red wire goes to the +12V terminal, black to GND and the orange wire from the P&A connects to TURN ON.
- Page 32 26. Connect the black 5 pin plug to its mate on the High Level input plug. Use the matching wire colors (Gray and White) and connect it to the amplifier. Note: The input selector switch should be set to 2CH. unless the you are installing in an Ultra or Ultra Classic and choose to use the rear inputs.
- Page 33 27. On the end of the speaker harness are 4 stripped wires. Connect them to the 4 screw block terminal on the end of the amplifier with the controls. Solid White = Left + White/Black = Left - Solid Gray = Right+ Gray/Black = Right - Connect the Red TURN ON wire to the orange P&A wire provid- ed in the kit and plug it into a avalible P&A connector.
- Page 34 28. Apply the protector to the bottom side of the vent assembly. Clean the surface with alcohol and allow it to dry thoroughly. Peel the protective strip from the double sited tape and stick it to the bottom of the vent assembly making sure it is approxi- mately centered.
- Page 35 29. This is what it should look like when it's done. Tie up all the extra wire using the supplied zip ties and reverse the process of disassembly. Everything should do together easily without any need to excessive force. Time to fire it up and listen to it. Remember that fuse at the battery? Now would be a good time to put in.
- Page 36 FACTORY EQUIPMENT NOTICE FULL HD factory radio’s have been known to clip (or distort) at HIGH higher opertaing levels. ARC Audio recommends, but FIG 1 FIG 4 Unless you are using does not require that operation of the HD factory radio...
- Page 37 FACTORY EQUIPMENT NOTICE FULL HD factory radio’s have been known to clip (or distort) at HIGH higher opertaing levels. ARC Audio recommends, but FIG 1 FIG 4 Unless you are using does not require that operation of the HD factory radio...
Need help?
Do you have a question about the M-PAK 14CX and is the answer not in the manual?
Questions and answers