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Summary of Contents for ARC Audio M-PAK 14CX
- Page 2 Table Of Contents 1. Remove the Seat 2. Remove the rear Tank Bolts 3. Remove the Front Tank Bolts 4. Disconnect the Fuel Line 5. Tank Removal Special Note: Brake Lines 6. Expose the Harness 7. Power Harness 8. Exposing the Battery 9.
- Page 3 18. Trim the Enclosure Alignment Pins 19. Install the New Speakers 20. Remove the Headlight 21. Remove the Radio 22. Prepare the Harness 23. Connect the Power Harness 24. Connect the Input Plug 25. Connect the Speaker Wires 26. Connect to the Stock Harness 27.
- Page 4 1. Locate the Philips head screw at the back of the seat and remove it being careful not to drop it. This will free the back of the seat. Raise it slightly and slide the seat toward the back of the bike until it comes free. Note: It maybe necessary to remove the seat strap.
- Page 5 2. Remove the 2 bolts at the back of the tank under the seat. Don't drop them down by the battery. You will need them later.
- Page 6 3. Remove the 2 bolts at the front of the tank. These are under rubber covers that must be removed first.
- Page 7 4. To disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank, locate the quick discon- nect fitting on the left side of the tank. Push up on the chrome plated portion of the connector. Work the black elbow fitting free while holding the chrome fitting in the up position. The elbow and attached fuel line should come free with very little effort.
- Page 8 5. Short Cut. While it is advisable to remove the chrome "Dash Board" from the tank and fully disconnect all wires and lines attached, you can carefully swing the tank around and set it in the seat position. A great deal of care must be taken to insure nothing is scratched or damaged.
- Page 9 If your bike does not have these it is recom- mended that you contact your local dealer and find out if it is necessary. If they are present they must be replaced exactly as they are. ARC Audio takes no responsibility for this modification.
- Page 10 6. Remove the black plastic cover off the top of the wire cover on the back bone of the frame. No tools here, just work it loose from the tabs. Lay the Provided HD Power Upgrade Harness in with the rest of the wires.
- Page 11 7. This is what it should look like before you put the cover back on. At this point you can reverse the process, putting the cover back on and putting the tank back in place and secure all the hardware tightly. Don't forget the fuel line.
- Page 12 8. Remove the 2 highlighted bolts. You may find it helpful to remove the control module (the one with 3 big plugs on it) on top of the battery cover. Slide the battery cover forward as far as possible. There is a metal tab at the front that it ahs to clear before it can be lifted up.
- Page 13 9. You have now exposed the top of the battery. The 2 ends of the power harness with the metal ring terminal can now be connected to the battery at this location. Take extra care when working around the positive (+) battery terminal.
- Page 14 Whoops! Did you forget to remove the fuse? Only install the fuse after ALL your connections to the battery and the amplifier are complete. There is a risk of significant damage and even fire if you forget this step.
- Page 15 10. Remove the 4- Torx head screws below the windshield. Warning: The windshield will be loose and ready to remove. Don't let it fall.
- Page 16 11. Remove the Upper vent assembly. No tools required here. It just pops off.
- Page 17 12. Unplug the turn signal. This is done from the top and requires no special tools.
- Page 18 13. Remove both the left and right side turn signals.
- Page 19 14. Remove the speaker grill by prying gently on the inner side. Then remove the 2 Torx head screws holding the fairing.
- Page 20 15. Remove the 2 Torx head screws holding the lower outside edge of the fairing.
- Page 21 16. The outer fairing will now come off with very little effort. If it does not come off easily, look for a missed screw or bolt.
- Page 22 17. The original equipment speaker can now be removed and put aside. It will not be needed again. The 4 Trox head screws will be retained and used to hold the new speaker.
- Page 23 18. There is a plastic alignment pin, molded to the speaker housing. This must be trimmed flush with sharp flush cutters or a razor knife. Warning: Razors of sharp or they are supposed to be anyway.
- Page 24 19. The new speaker can now be plugged in a installed. The Side con- nectors are sized to the correct plug, large and small. We have found some bikes require that the rubber magnet cover be removed from the speaker for clearance. This has no negative effect on the speaker and will not affect your warranty.
- Page 25 20. Remove the headlight by removing the 4 screws securing it to the fairing and unplug the harness. You will need access behind the headlight when mounting the amplifier.
- Page 26 21. It’s time to remove the stock radio. The amplifier will be located upside down beneath the radio. Remove the 4 Allen screws holding the radio in place. Disconnect all the plugs and harnesses from the rear.
- Page 27 22. You now need to assemble the speaker harness. Just plug the adapters to the ends of the harness, matching the connec- tors with their appropriate mate. Make sure the insulating covers are firmly in place. A shorted wire here will shut down or pos- sible damage the system.
- Page 28 23. Connect the power harness from the battery to the 3 screw terminal block on the end of the amplifier. You did remember to remove the fuse from the harness right? The Red wire goes to the +12V terminal, black to GND and the orange wire from the P&A connects to TURN ON.
- Page 29 24. Connect the black 5 pin plug to its mate on the High Level input plug. Use the matching wire colors (Gray and White) and connect it to the amplifier. Note: The input selector switch should be set to 2CH. unless the you are installing in an Ultra or Ultra Classic and choose to use the rear inputs.
- Page 30 25. On the end of the speaker harness are 4 stripped wires. Connect them to the 4 screw block terminal on the end of the amplifier with the controls. Solid White = Left + White/Black = Left - Solid Gray = Right+ Gray/Black = Right - Connect the Red TURN ON wire to the orange P&A wire provided in the kit and plug it into a avalible P&A connector.
- Page 31 26. Locate the 2 wire Molex connector. It can be found behind the speaker ® housing. This will match the connectors on the supplied harness. Unplug this harness and connect the matching ends of the supplied harness here. This connection will serve and both input to the amplifier and output to the speakers.
- Page 32 27. No tools are needed to make this connection. Make sure the connectors are fully seated and latched. Note: Do Not pull this plug by the wires. It’s expensive.
- Page 33 P&A 28. Locate the 2 pin connector we will use for remote turn on. The service manual calls this a "P&A" connector and it is intended to power or trigger accessories like this. There will be an empty plug in the end that will need to be removed.
- Page 34 29. With the radio removed, you will see a large, black, steel bracket that is the main support for the fairing. The amplifier mounting place will lay on top of this support so that is it held in place by the radio when it is rein- stalled.
- Page 35 Wrong Wrong...
- Page 36 30. By now the amplifier should be completely wired and tuned. You will not be able to make any adjustments after this point without remov- ing the amplifier. If needed temporarily reconnect the radio and test the system. The amplifier inserts under the structural members of the fairing, directly behind the head-...
- Page 37 31 Secure the amplifier to the bracket using the provided screws and washers. Some Blue Locktite would be a good idea ® here.
- Page 38 32.The final amplifier installation should look something like this.
- Page 39 33. Looking through the opening for the radio, you can see the wiring exits on the left hand side (clutch level side). The steel structure around the am- plifier is shaped perfectly to accept it with all the correct angles to provide clearance.
- Page 40 34. With the radio reinstalled and connected the finished amplifier installa- tion should look like this. Make sure you have all the connections at the radio correct, fully seated and tightly secured. The system should now be ready for a final system check. Replace the fuse into the power harness under the seat.
- Page 41 FACTORY EQUIPMENT NOTICE FULL HD factory radio’s have been known to clip (or distort) at HIGH higher opertaing levels. ARC Audio recommends, but FIG 1 FIG 4 Unless you are using does not require that operation of the HD factory radio...
- Page 42 FACTORY EQUIPMENT NOTICE FULL HD factory radio’s have been known to clip (or distort) at HIGH higher opertaing levels. ARC Audio recommends, but FIG 1 FIG 4 Unless you are using does not require that operation of the HD factory radio...
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