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Related Manuals for TOP racing PHOTON
Summary of Contents for TOP racing PHOTON
- Page 1 Building Tips Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 2 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 3 T.O.P. Amendment: Place Mold J-03-1 (40T flange) on top of Mold J-01-1 (Spool) before applying small amount of instant glue, so that the glue could get in the small gap between the glue parts. This way the glue would not get on the teeth of the pulley due to higher surface tension formed at the contact junction of the two parts Building Tips: - Make sure the pulley guide is glued on all the way.
- Page 4 the spool, if they hit you won't get the outdrives tight against the spool. The screws we use are phillips button head screws. (odpurple post) T.O.P. Amendment: Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 5 (schreff post 1365) - The Photon diff is super smooth out of the box, so keeping it this is a priority. Here’s what I do to keep it this way: •...
- Page 6 T.O.P. Amendment: The fitting between Mold L-03-1 and Mold L-02-1 are purposefully designed to have a tight fitting. Be very careful when applying instant glue at the contact edge AFTER the 2 parts are locked together. TC-PDT005RD-1 is replaced by TC-PDT005BK-1. Building Tips: - When gluing the centre drive pulleys and the outer flanges together we first pressed the outer rings onto the pulleys and applied tiny drops of CA glue after that.
- Page 7 forward. In rubber - center to back on the motor screw slots will provide the best performance. (josh cyrul post 1013) Building Tips: - When connecting #mold1-02-1 to mold1-01-1 (ackerman rack) use a 3x8mm screw rather than the supplied 3x6mm screw. This will allow easy adjustment of the rack without separation of the rack due the the extra few threads.
- Page 8 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 9 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 10 Building Tips: - I'm running the belts the standard way. If I was trying to get weight down under 1400 then I would reverse the belts so I can take off weight and still balance the car L/R. (ejevans 4393) - To avoid chassis tweak, loosen all top deck screws INCLUDING the lay shaft screws.
- Page 11 Building Tips: - The Photon main belt is very tight out of the box and installing it, even in the loosest position when building can tweak the chassis. A handy tip is to not tighten the spur gear until you’ve bolted the top deck and the wings on, as this will give you a bit more slack to get the chassis flat before putting the belt on.
- Page 12 pushing on them with firm tension). Anything more than this will actually cost you top speed and run time. (josh cyrul post 1416) Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 13 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 14 Building Tips: - To avoid chassis tweak, loosen all top deck screws INCLUDING the lay shaft screws. Tighten all of the top deck screws then finally tighten up the lay shaft screws should fix your problem. If you tighten up the lay shaft first it seems to pull the bulkheads together pinching on the chassis resulting in chassis tweak.
- Page 15 Building Tips: - Install the upper of the two motor screws before fixing the top deck. We found it quite hard to insert the screw as the button head touches the top deck making it nearly impossible to put the motor screw where it belongs. If you already installed the upper deck remove the four 2.5×6 mm countersunk screws located over the layshaft and raise the top deck slightly so the button head motor screw can slide underneath it.
- Page 16 T.O.P. Amendment PO-SDT008-1 is replaced by PO-SDT027RD. T.O.P. Amendment Due to the same reason as of Step 04 , cut any burr that might exist at PO-DT0006-1 (Dog Bone C Drive). Building Tips: - Take off the wheel clamp(hex) take the pin out and see how far you can push the axle with the blade in the outdrives till it hits the screw or nut.
- Page 17 Building Tips: - Take off the wheel clamp(hex) take the pin out and see how far you can push the axle with the blade in the outdrives till it hits the screw or nut. If you have some play it should be fine. Check it in all the arm positions. (marcel p post 1315) Made by vabroom...
- Page 18 T.O.P. Amendment When tightening PA-SS0312BK-1 (M3x12 Set Screw), be sure not to over tighten it because this would cause the end of the screw to touch PO-SDT018-1 (Universal Axle). Building Tips: - You can use X-Ray caster blocks and caster block bushings. That's what Larry and I have been doing as a stop gap measure.
- Page 19 Building Tips: - 3 holes is old version, new ver. is 4 holes. Parts number is same. (rcmarket post 5032) Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 20 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 21 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 22 Building Tips: - The total thickness for the washers used to determine the wheel base must be 3,5mm. (shb post 5154) Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 23 Building Tips: - When installing the tie rods pay special attention to the direction in which to snap them on. One side of the hole is bigger than the other. Snap it on large opening first. This may seem obvious to most, but this is not covered in the manual and for some this may be their first experience with captured ball ends.
- Page 24 Building Tips: - Pre-thread the sway bar ballcups (the hollow alum part) some have broken it trying to use it to thread the cup. (mikexray post 4999) - For the sway bar assembly, I glue the ball and setscrew together and not run the 2.5mm spacer. This make is easier to adjust the sway bar.
- Page 25 T.O.P. Amendment Apply small amount of Locktite at PA-SS0303BK-1 (M3x3 Set Screw) to secure it from its position inside TC- PSU006RD-1 (Stabilizer Mount) to hold the stabilizer bar in place without loosening. Building Tips: - For the sway bars you want the set screws on the shock towers tight enough to hold the sway bar in place vertically but not to limit the rotation, if you tighten them down you'll limit the rotation and add stiffness to the sway bar which will be hard to adjust side to side, josh had posted about only putting a shim on one side of the sway bar and gluing the set screw to the ball on the other so you can adjust the bars up and down, after you do...
- Page 26 T.O.P. Amendment Apply small amount of Locktite at PA-SS0303BK-1 (M3x3 Set Screw) to secure it from its position inside TC- PSU006RD-1 (Stabilizer Mount) to hold the stabilizer bar in place without loosening. Mold R-05-1 is replaced by PO-PSH002 (Shock Teflon O-Ring Guide). Building Tips: - For the sway bars you want the set screws on the shock towers tight enough to hold the sway bar in place vertically but not to limit the rotation, if you tighten them down you'll limit the rotation and add stiffness to the...
- Page 27 T.O.P. Amendment Mold R-05-1 is replaced by PO-PSH002 (Shock Teflon O-Ring Guide). Building Tips: - I haven't seen any leak from the top but I have from the bottom. Usually it's within the first days of running the car as the o-rings haven't expanded enough yet. With a lot of shocks, they make the fit perfect from the start and you have to constantly change the o-rings to keep the shocks working well (which makes a big difference for traction).
- Page 28 I saw Craig's comment about using TRF shocks. Keep in mind that our bladder is much softer and doesn't have the same compression/rebound as other shocks out there. We can make ours much more "dead" and/or tune the rebound with foam in the shock caps (coming soon). At the Reedy Race, I used the standard TOP foam inserts (yes I know they are a little small) in the caps and here is how I built my shocks: Fill with oil, making sure to get air bubbles out.
- Page 29 Also always make sure the pistons are clean and without burrs before putting them in. I always use the 1.2mm pistons with 3 holes. (lfairtrace post 5089) - Build the shocks to the "normal" length, it's fine - just don't try and tighten the bottoms all the way up the thread, they won't go that far without damage! A few threads will be visible but they will be concealed by the spring cup.
- Page 30 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 31 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 32 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 33 Building Tips: - To have a better fit with the ball cups, just go in from the backside with a reamer and make one soft turn. It makes them perfect. (lfairtrace post 4355 Made by vabroom / www.rctech.net, provided for publication to www.petitrc.com...
- Page 34 Building Tips: - Servo Mounting - Most large servos are 49-51mm hole pattern depending on the mfg. Most people don't use the servo grommets so there is always plenty of room to accomidate a .5mm tolerance on each side so the chassis is drilled to 50mm hole pattern for the servo.
- Page 35 - The steering assembly is a potential pain point of the car. Using the stock servo arm and crashing is a recipe for a broken bell crank. A Kimbrough servo saver is an easy fit. To maintain alignment, and prevent the saver from fouling the top deck, I spaced my servo out by 2mm using the long mounts and added 2.5mm spacers to the grub screw on the servo saver.
- Page 36 11mm Insert 4.69 8.81 12.39 15.43 17.94 12mm Insert 4.67 8.75 12.26 15.22 17.65 22.5mm Length 9mm Insert 4.76 9.07 12.93 16.32 19.21 10mm Insert 4.75 9.03 12.83 16.16 18.98 11mm Insert 4.74 8.98 12.73 15.99 18.74 12mm Insert 4.72 8.92 12.62 15.81...