Scorpio Aquila speed S2083 Manual

Aquila speed
Technical data
Wing span: 2050 mm
Lenght: 1137 mm
Weight: 1300 g – 1800 g
Wing area: 35 dm2
Wing loading: 37 g/dm2 – 51 g/dm2
El. Motor "600" - 7/8 cells 2.000 mAh or
Mutron S89ATR600.20.10 - 10 cells
4/5 1650 mAh
Controls: Elevator, rudder, ailerons, (motor)
Introduction
Congratulations on buying your Aquila speed. Slope
soaring is a very special way of flying R/C models. Given
a good slope and a proficient glider, hours of exciting
flying is assured. Even if not for everybody and definitely
not for beginners, slope soaring means the possibility
to perform true aerobatics without the annoying noise
of the conventional engines. Your Aquila speed, with
its carefully studied aerodynamic design thanks to its
special elliptical wing will offer you a superior class
approach to this flying activity. Since a slope is
mandatory for slope soaring and not always available
for people living in flat areas, we have also supplied the
possibility to fly your Aquila speed electric. Its excellent
Astra© epoxy fuselage is really designed "around" the
electronic devices of the radio control offering the best
aerodynamic efficiency.
Before starting construction
Carefully study the exploded view as well as the building
sketches; read and understand the step by step
instructions before beginning construction, it is time
well spent. First, examine the kit to ensure nothing is
missing. Using the illustrations mark each wood part
with its corresponding number. Remove each die cut
part and sand it carefully.
Although the assembly of the model is not complicated,
it is important to carefully study the assembly
instructions and think over each step thoroughly
Equipment needed
Here's all you need to build your Aquila speed:
- Modeling knife
- Scissors
- Sanding block and coarse, medium and fine
sandpaper
- Square
- Drill and a 1.5, 2 and 3 mm bit
- Masking tape
- Solder
- 5 minute Epoxy Glue and/or Cyanoacrylate
- Hobby saw
Glider or Electro Glider?
Aquila speed is a very versatile model. It can be
successfully flown as a tow line glider or as an electric
motor glider.
S2083
If you are building the tow line version disregard steps
5 to 7. For the electric powered version disregard steps
1 to 4.
Assembly:
1. Only for the glider version. Glue (Epoxy) the towing
hook supports [DC-9] together. Next glue towing hook
supports in place inside the fuselage [1] about 265 mm
from the nose.
2. Only for the glider version. With a drilling machine
and a 1,5 mm bit, drill a hole in the middle of the fuselage
bottom at about 280 - 285 mm from the nose. Screw the
tow hook [B1-6] to the fuselage.
3. Only for the glider version. Take from Die Cut sheet
the motor former [DC-1] and instead of removing the
wood in correspondence of the motor shaft hole, leave
it and fill with epoxy the gap of the die cut gluing them
also together. Sand slightly the glued formers in order
to fit well the inside of the fuselage [1] and glue (Epoxy)
them in place.
4. Only for the motor-glider version. Drill a 3 mm hole in
the nose of the fuselage [1] to pour the ballast (not
supplied) inside the nose of the fuselage.
5. Only for the motor-glider version. Following the cut
line on the fuselage nose, remove the nose with a hand
saw. It is better to leave some material and remove it
afterward with a sanding block.
6. Only for the motor-glider version. Glue (Epoxy) together
the two motor formers [DC-1]. With a 3 mm bit drill the
two holes for the motor fastening screws [B1-21].
Fasten the electric motor to the formers [DC-1] with the
two screws [B1-21]. Check the motor matches the
center hole. Glue (Epoxy) the motor support in place
inside the fuselage nose. Check that the motor matches
the spinner and that the alignment of the motor shaft is
precise.
7. Only for the motor-glider version. If you want to use a
more powerful motor it would be convenient to make
two cooling holes on the front part of the fuselage. As a
suggestion, you can follow the diagram. The hole on
the right side is about 12 mm more backward than the
hole on the left side.
8. With a 2 mm bit drill the holes in the servo tray [DC-
6] for the servo screws.
9. Here you can have an idea of the inner structure of
the battery and servos support, together with the formers
and the jig to locate the position of the battery support.
10. Glue (Epoxy, CA) together the battery support former