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Summary of Contents for Zipp J.A.E. Racing JAE21G2
- Page 1 Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G Kently Porter after smashing several IMPBA records with his JAE 21 JAE21G A Zippkits R/C Boat Building Instructions ©2009 Zipp Manufacturing - Frankfort, New York 13340 www.zippkits.com Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP...
- Page 2 The JAE 21G2 was designed and developed as a result of a joint venture between IMPBA Hall of Fame member Rod Geraghty, David Hall, Ron Zaker Jr. & Martin Truex Jr. The main difference between this hull and all the others is the use of sharp edges on the bottom of the sponsons and tub, as opposed to curved surfaces.
- Page 3 In addition to a marine engine, you can use any air cooled 3.3-3.5 car or truggy engine, with excellent results. The kit is not hard to assemble, as all of the hard stuff has been done for you. That is no excuse to do a poor job with assembly. The better you build this boat, the better it will run.
- Page 4 Tools and supplies needed to build § Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper § Drill with bits § Square § Flat file § FLAT Workbench § 1/2 ounce Medium CA glue and accelerator § Good quality 5 and 30 minute epoxy §...
- Page 5 3.3 to 3.5 air or water cooled Nitro engine § .187 Collet and flywheel for engine § Starting belt § .187 18 inch cable w/welded 3/16 stub shaft (Zipp 3486) § Header to fit engine § Tuned pipe § 2 channel surface radio with 2 servos §...
- Page 6 Let’s identify the parts so that we can easily find them when needed. Mark the parts that are inside other parts. 1/16 plywood parts: 1/8 plywood parts...
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Page 7: Miscellaneous Parts
Miscellaneous parts... -
Page 8: Foam Parts
Foam parts Right sponson has 6 holes Left sponson has 2 holes Foam nose block Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly. Tub Jig We recommend that you make a jig for the tub. - Page 9 Let’s build the tub. First, mark the insides of the tub right and left. The sponson boom hole is toward the bottom of the tub side. Make these marks in the front portion of the sides, where it won’t be seen later. Check the fit of the bulkheads in the right tub side.
- Page 10 Assemble the tub sides on a flat surface Check the fit of the bulkheads in the left tub side. If all is well, glue the bulkheads in place one at a time, using the square from the kit. Using the square provided in the kit. Flip the tub over and lightly sand the bottom.
- Page 11 Put a layer of waxed paper over the jig. Put the tub aft bottom in the jig and set the tub onto it. Fully clamp the jig sides to the jig. Glue the tub sub nose to the very front of the tub.
- Page 12 When the tub bottom has cured, lets move on to boom tube alignment. This is probably the most critical step in the assembly, so take all the time needed to get this right. Remove the tub from the jig. Grab the two brass boom tube sleeves, and use 80 grit paper to rough the last ¼...
- Page 13 Clamp the doublers in place without glue and measure the ends of the tubes. Both sides of the tubes should be the same distance from the bench. If not, loosen the clamps and adjust the doublers until they are. If the doublers or holes now have to be sanded to fit, you must sand them and repeat the measuring process.
- Page 14 Glue in the lid frame support. This gets attached to the rear of bulkhead 2, and is flush with the lower portion of the sides. Radio box lid support glued in place behind bulkhead 2. Check the fit of the foam nose block. If all is well, glue the foam nose block in place with epoxy or poly glue.
- Page 15 Glue the forward bottom in place with epoxy. Be sure to sand the angle into the aft sheet so that it matches the tub sides. The forward bottom sheet should cover the bevel on the aft sheeting and be left square. Do not sand the rear of the forward sheeting;...
- Page 16 It should line up perfectly. If not, find out why and correct it. Mount the engine so that the glow plug is about 4-1/2 inches in front of bulkhead Once you are happy with the engine placement, screw the engine mounts in place with the screws provided with the mounts.
- Page 17 The reason is that two bends support the flex cable better, reducing cable whip, and drag. Measure from the end of the engine collet to the rear bulkhead. Remove the engine. Put the shaft tube through the hole in the rear bulkhead, and the hole in the tub bottom.
- Page 18 Glue the shaft tube in place with epoxy and filler (to thicken). Be sure to get inside and outside the tub, and both sides of the bulkhead. Allow to cure. Be sure to leave enough shaft tube for the strut. Leave all the excess shaft tube in the rear.
- Page 19 Assemble the 4 parts of the ski using epoxy or CA. Ski parts ready for assembly. Glue the aft ski bottom onto the sides. Match the bottom sheeting to the front end of the sides, and let the rear overhang. Clamp or tape this assembly until cured.
- Page 20 Glue the forward ski bottom in place, and let the front overhang. This is done exactly like the tub bottom sheeting. Note long bevel sanded in front of ski. Sand a sharp bevel on the front of the ski bottom sheet, so that it blends into the tub bottom.
- Page 21 Drill a ¼ inch hole, inboard of your mark. Mark on transom. Regular strut shown. Assemble the rudder servo tray. This is made from the servo mount base, strap and the two 3/4x1 inch plywood blocks. Check the length of your servo, and glue the blocks in place.
- Page 22 Check the fit of the servo in the tray. You will have to cut a recess for the servo wire in one block. Make sure that the servo is a tiny bit taller that the mount, otherwise, the strap won’t tighten the servo. Use two servo screws (not supplied) to attach the strap.
- Page 23 Don’t get any glue on the servo or wire. Allow to cure. Rudder servo in place. Assemble the throttle servo mounts using the scrap 5/16 balsa tri stock and the two 3/8x3/4 plywood blocks. Throttle servo rails. Balsa tri stock is scrap 5/16 from tub. Sand the excess balsa flush with the ply.
- Page 24 Glue these to the tub side. Be sure that the servo is on the correct side for the engine you are using, and that the servo is not touching the tub floor. Throttle servo mounted in tub. Make sure it’s on the correct side… We like to use a nylon clevis on the throttle end, and an EZ connector on the servo end of the throttle.
- Page 25 Fit and glue the balsa tri stock to the top of the tub sides. Try to get them flush, or slightly above the sides. Use epoxy finishing resin (or West Systems epoxy) to seal the inside of the tub. Be sure to seal around the boom tube sleeves, pushrod holes and all around the servo mounts.
- Page 26 Once the top sheeting has cured, sand the front of the tub flat and square. Glue the pine tub nose block to the front of the tub. Pine tub nose block in place. Shape the block to match the tub. Finish the nose block with a round, blunt nose.
- Page 27 Sponsons The sponsons are assembled in a specific order for a reason. It is not the fastest way, but it’s the only way it can be done right. Gather all of the parts for the right sponson. The right sponson holds the turn fin, so it Right sponson does all the work…...
- Page 28 While the right sponson is curing, you can glue the left sponson. Everything is the same, except the left sponson has only the two tubes. *Make sure that the left sponson is a mirror image of the right* With the right sponson on it’s right (outside) side, and the left sponson on it’s left (outside) side, both sets of brass sleeves should be sticking out.
- Page 29 Use your sanding block with 80 grit paper to sand the foam flush with both sponson plates. Foam sanded flush with sponson plates. Sponson sheeting order. Needed for correct overhangs. Using epoxy, glue R-1 in place on the sponson step. Use masking tape to hold it in place while it cures.
- Page 30 Glue R-3 in place, leaving equal overhang on both sides, and an overhang on the rear. Glue R-4 with equal overhang on the sides, and leave an overhang in the rear. Note that the bottom overhangs don’t get sanded off if you plan to use a low power engine.
- Page 31 When cured, sand the front until it is flat and square. Glue the pine sponson tip in place with epoxy. Pine sponson nose block in place. When cured, sand the nose block to a nice blunt tip. Also sand the top sheeting, R-2 and the tips flush with the sides.
- Page 32 You may have to adjust the shaft tube some more. If using the Zipp Z21 strut, the spacer block is not needed. Strut cut back, and mounted on standoff blocks. Omit block for Z21. The strut needs to be at the very bottom of the ski for the proper propeller depth.
- Page 33 Turn Fin Sharpen the outside of the turn fin. Mark the center of the turn fin dowels. Drill 3/32 pilot holes on your marks. Turn fin mounting. Attach the turn fin with the supplied sheet metal screws and washers. If you have a bottom overhang on the sponson, sand it flush where the fin contacts it.
- Page 34 Seal the tub and sponsons with epoxy finishing resin or West Systems epoxy. Be sure that all wood is sealed. Scrape off as much epoxy as you can. It will make sanding easier. Also seal the other side of the radio box top.
- Page 35 Trim the shaft tube so that it is about ½ inch longer than the ski bottom. Bolt the strut to the transom. You may have to trim the shaft tube to fit inside the strut. The strut needs to be at the very bottom of the ski for the proper propeller depth.
- Page 36 Setup Set the strut so that it is level with the tub bottom, and touching the ski bottom. You may have to cut some of the strut so that it sits on the very end of the ski sheeting. Turn on the radio. Make sure that the steering trim is in the center.
- Page 37 Also push the trigger (brake) to make sure that the throttle closes fully. You may have to back out the tiny throttle stop screw on the carb. Take the time to get this right. If you don’t, your boat won’t shut off and will be embarrassing and dangerous.
- Page 38 Balsa tri stock cutting guide. From the 4 pieces of ¼ tri stock, cut as shown.
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Page 39: Additional Information
Additional information International Waters Website www.intlwaters.com Excellent forum for information on nitro powered boats NovaRossi US www.novarossi.us Source for the extremely fast NovaRossi 12 and 21 If you have a need for speed, this is the engine you need…...
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