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Zipp EASY VEE Building Instructions

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Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC
Indiana USA
(866) 922-9477
www.zippkits.com

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Summary of Contents for Zipp EASY VEE

  • Page 1 Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G A Zippkits R/C Boat Building Instructions 2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC Indiana USA (866) 922-9477 www.zippkits.com...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    T able of Contents Introduction Engine Mounting S E C T I O N T H E F R A M E Stuffing Tube Supplies needed to build Equipment needed to run S E C T I O N P A I N T Building Surface Hull prep Parts identification...

  • Page 3: Introduction

    E A S Y V E E Introduction Thank you for purchasing this kit. We are sure that it will provide you with many hours of enjoyment. Please take the time to read this entire manual before building this boat. You will become familiar with the building order, and less likely to make mistakes.
  • Page 4 E A S Y V E E Purpose This boat was designed as sport boat, which looks like the offshore race boats. It is legal for racing in any mono class, due to its vee bottom, if you choose to race.

  • Page 5: Supplies Needed To Build

    E A S Y V E E Tools and supplies needed to build:  Small wood plane (mini plane)  Sanding blocks with 80 and 220 grit paper  Drill with bits  Right angle drill or attachment  Square ...
  • Page 6  ¼ inch thrust bearing (“trimmer” type engine) (Aeromarine # 1502 )  Tuned pipe w/90 or 100 degree header or canister muffler (Zipp 2000/2010 or 2011)  2 channel surface radio with 1 standard and 1 heavy duty servo (100 in/oz minimum) ...
  • Page 7 E A S Y V E E Before we can start building, we need to do some prep work. Good prep work will pay off later with a straight, true running boat. First, we need a flat work surface. Nothing else will do. If you don’t have a perfectly flat bench, you can make one with your piece of 12x48 plywood.
  • Page 8 E A S Y V E E Please note that in some of the pictures, the boat shown may look different from yours. This is because we make a whole series of boats that are assembled in exactly the same way. Where it is important, we show the correct hull in the pictures.
  • Page 9 E A S Y V E E We like the Great Planes 11 inch bar sanders Your life will be much easier with one of these Acid brush trimmed for fast epoxy application Use good quality epoxy and finishing resin...
  • Page 10 E A S Y V E E Let’s get started. Attach the jig board to your FLAT bench (or 12x48 ply) with screws, nails, clamps or whatever you need, to make sure it’s attached to the surface. Make sure the “F” is so that you can read it. Remove bulkheads 1, 2, and 3 from the sheet.
  • Page 11 E A S Y V E E Check the fit of the engine rails into bulkheads 3, 4 and 5. Be sure that the cutout rail is on the right side of the boat. This will be on the left (from the rear), when looking at the boat upside down.
  • Page 12 E A S Y V E E Stringers Next, we will install the stringers. Make sure you follow along closely, as these are very important to the final shape. Grab the four 1/4x1/4x48 sticks. Carefully check them for knots or other imperfections. If you find any, be sure they are installed towards the rear, where the bend isn’t so great.

  • Page 13: Keel

    E A S Y V E E The reason for gluing, holding for a few seconds, then moving forward is because the shape of the stringer changes as you move forward. Doing it this way, the glue has not completely cured, and can be “adjusted”...

  • Page 14: Stringers

    E A S Y V E E When that is secure, put some glue in the area where they all join, to give it a little extra strength. Time for another break. Give your beautiful boat skeleton at least 20 minutes to cure. Call your wife in to look at it.

  • Page 15: Bottom Sheeting

    E A S Y V E E Using 30 minute epoxy, mix up about 1/2 ounce. Stir very well. Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the stringers and bulkhead edges. Work quickly. Make sure that all surfaces that will touch the sheeting are coated.

  • Page 16: Transom

    E A S Y V E E The mistake most people make with wood planes is trying to take off too much wood. If you try to plane with the blade too deep, you will gouge and split the wood. Adjust your plane to remove about 1/64 of an inch of material or so.
  • Page 17 E A S Y V E E Test fit the bottom sheeting in place. It should cover exactly half of the keel. Also, sand a gradually increasing bevel on the inside (center) edge, so that both sheets will meet squarely. Make sure the front is accurately aligned with the center of the keel and that there is some overlap at the rear.
  • Page 18 E A S Y V E E Take your time on the next step, it’s important. Test fit the other bottom sheet, and make any adjustments before you glue. Make sure that both bottom sheets meet as perfectly as possible. Take your time here.
  • Page 19 E A S Y V E E Using CA, glue the two small sides to the two long sides. The small sides go between the long ones. Use a square. Use a square when gluing sides together. Put glue on the edges, and join the two box halves on the bench.
  • Page 20 E A S Y V E E Glue on the bottom. Lightly sand the top. Bottom installed Glue the radio box top on. This is the 1/8 inch Birch top. Take a break for a few minutes, so that the radio box glue joints can cure.
  • Page 21 E A S Y V E E Sand the entire box with 220. Stand back and admire your awesome radio box! Completed radio box with lid. Back to the boat: Make sure that it has been at least 2 hours since you glued the bottom sheeting to the hull.
  • Page 22 E A S Y V E E Glue in the two spines. The holes in the spines indicate the front end. Glue in the center spine. It butts against the keel. The two holes in the center spine indicate the top front.

  • Page 23: Sealing Interior

    E A S Y V E E Grab the ½ inch dowel deck support and two deck support doublers. Put the dowel in the holes in bulkheads 3 and 4 as shown. This will be on the left side, as you were sitting in the boat.
  • Page 24 E A S Y V E E Seal as far as the back of bulkhead 3. Don’t seal between the engine rails yet, that’s next. Before the next step, glue the engine rail spacer between the engine rails. Glue at about the halfway point between the bulkheads.
  • Page 25 E A S Y V E E After the hull sealer has had a chance to cure, let’s get the hull ready for the top sheeting. Trim the building tabs, plane and sand the bulkheads to a flat top contour. Seam fiber glassed.
  • Page 26 E A S Y V E E Top Deck This is usually the most difficult step in building a boat. Not so with the Easy Vee! It’s very easy to get the deck attached properly. This will be easy… Sand the two top sheets. Carefully sand the inside edges, as we will be gluing them together.
  • Page 27 E A S Y V E E Flip the joined sheets over and “hinge” them open. Apply 30 minute epoxy in the joint. Place the assembly flat on the bench, and wipe any excess glue off of the seam. Put a few pieces of tape across the seam, to hold it tightly together.
  • Page 28 E A S Y V E E to the deck center area, and put some 18 inch long pieces of 2x4 or similar across the deck, behind bulkhead 3, to help keep the sides of the deck flat. Allow to cure overnight. After the deck sheeting is fully cured, use your plane and 80 grit to sand flush.

  • Page 29: Stuffing Tube

    E A S Y V E E Stuffing tube Set up for surface drive, this will exit the rear of the boat, through the transom. The stuffing tube is a piece of 5/16 brass tube. Drill a 5/16 hole at the bottom of the transom. Make sure it is centered.
  • Page 30 E A S Y V E E mark the two REAR mounting holes in the rails. DO NOT mark the front yet… Remove the engine, and drill the holes in the rails using your Dremel, or other right angle drill. Put the engine back in, install the rear mount bolts and slip the cable in.
  • Page 31 E A S Y V E E Next, we will mount everything we need, to make this boat go! Radio: Find the 4 pieces of ¼x1-1/2 ply, and the 4 pieces of tri stock. These are the servo mounts. Using CA, glue one piece of tri stock to each piece of ply.
  • Page 32 E A S Y V E E Lay the servo box on its end, opening towards you. Make a pencil mark ½ inch from the right side, inside the box. This is where the rudder servo will mount. Get a piece of scrap 1/8 wood from the kit, and place this on the floor of the radio box, where the rudder servo will be.
  • Page 33 E A S Y V E E Hardware: Draw a line on the transom, from top corner to top Stinger drive mounted to transom. corner. Mark the center of this line, and put a mark 2-1/2 inches to the right of the center line. Hold the stinger assembly against the transom, slip the cable through it, into the stuffing tube and mark one hole location.
  • Page 34 90 degrees to the bottom. It will be canted outward with the hull level. The Easy Vee turns much tighter with a turn fin, although you can run without one. If you are racing, we recommend a fin on each side,...
  • Page 35 E A S Y V E E Stub shaft showing flat spot filed for set screw. Flex cable Get the flex cable, drive dog, prop and prop nut. Put the drive dog on the stub shaft, then the prop. Note ¼ inch gap at stinger drive. Engage the drive dog into the prop, and slide this assembly back until the prop covers the first 2 or 3 threads on the stub shaft.
  • Page 36 E A S Y V E E from the stinger. We will pull the cable back an additional 1/8, so that the drive dog is ¼ inch from the back of the stinger. We need this gap, as the cable “winds up” and shortens under load, and we don’t want the drive dog to rub the end of the stinger.
  • Page 37 E A S Y V E E These hold the rubber bands that secure the tank in place. We used a 14 ounce tank. Throttle pushrod and switch detail. Put the rudder on with a couple of screws. Set the radio box between the ply rails, about 1 inch behind bulkhead 4.
  • Page 38 E A S Y V E E After the radio box is cured, make the rudder pushrod. You have several options as to what to make it out of. Just make sure it’s strong and stiff We like to use a 4-40 pushrod from the hobby shop, which is threaded on one end.
  • Page 39 If you do, you have to re-coat the area with resin, and re-sand. Strakes The Easy Vee features turning strakes on the bottom. These help the smooth bottom “grip” the water when the boat turns, minimizing slide.
  • Page 40 E A S Y V E E Then mark 2-1/2 inches out from the keel. Where these two lines meet is where the rear of the strake starts. Using a yardstick or similar. Draw a line forward from the mark you made, 36 inches long. Maintain the 2-1/2 inch distance from the keel.
  • Page 41 E A S Y V E E Front of strake. Keep parallel to keel. When you are sure that everything is ready, get out your medium CA Put a small bead of CA on the bottom of one strake. Only use a tiny bead, from end to end. We don’t want any to squeeze out from between the strake and the bottom.
  • Page 42 E A S Y V E E Make 100 percent sure that there is no glue fillet between the strake and the bottom. This would make the strakes useless, as we need the edge to “bite” as we turn. Windshield parts. Windshield Sand the three parts to the windshield.

  • Page 43: Decals

    E A S Y V E E Finishing Once the hull is dry, wipe it down with alcohol. Use a tack cloth lightly to remove any dust. Spray a light coat of primer. Let this flash for a few minutes, and spray a heavy coat on. Let sit overnight.
  • Page 44 E A S Y V E E Final assembly Before you bolt anything to the hull, give it a good coat of paste wax. Put the boat on your stand. This is where it will live, when it’s not in the water. Sharpen the turn fin.

  • Page 45: Setup

    E A S Y V E E pushrods through the big end of the pushrod seals. Attach both ends of the pushrods, making sure the seals are on the outside of the radio box. Use Goop or silicone to glue the pushrod seals to the outside of the radio box.

  • Page 46: Running

    E A S Y V E E closed when you push the trigger fully forward. When the engine is running, you can use the throttle trim to set the idle speed. Take the time to get this right. It’s no fun running your boat onto the shore because the engine won’t shut off…...
  • Page 47 E A S Y V E E At the pond Make sure your transmitter and receiver batteries are fresh, or fully charged. Do a range check with your transmitter antenna down, and note the distance. You should do a range check every day that you run. Should a problem arise, you can fix it before you damage anything.
  • Page 48 E A S Y V E E can use the included” Tuning Tools” sheet to help you sort out any problems. Have fun, be safe, and send us your pictures! Send pics and videos to pics@zippkits.com...
  • Page 49 E A S Y V E E Troubleshooting Boat bounces in the straights- Stinger angled up CG too far back Speed too slow Boat blows over at high speed- CG too far back Stinger angled up Inner tabs too high Boat “plows”- CG too far forward Stinger angled down...
  • Page 50 Adjust LH outer for best left turns. Try different props- We like the Zipp 470, Zipp 670, Prather 270, 275 or Octura X670 for a stock engine. Try different props to get the handling you want. The Easy Vee responds well to small 3 blade props like 6518 and 2514.

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