Advertisement
4.2.3.
Always test on a small unobtrusive area first. If satisfactory, proceed with the task in hand.
4.2.4.
Hold the gun nozzle 3" to 4" from the paint to be removed.
4.2.5.
After a short time paint will soften and begin to blister.
DO NOT overheat the paint as this will cause it to burn making it more difficult to remove. Wear eye protection, especially when
4.2.6.
stripping paint from overhead. If lead paint is being removed, refer to the warning at the beginning of this manual.
4.2.7.
Begin scraping the paint off. Work from top to bottom. Use a scraper with smooth even strokes, warming the surface in front
of the scraper by moving the gun slightly from side to side.
4.2.8.
If the correct temperature has been applied to the paint, thick even layers can be removed in a single pass (paint should be removed in
strips equal in width to the scraper blade).
4.2.9.
Keep the scraper blade edge clean and sharp preventing paint peelings from building up.
4.2.10.
Scrape paint as soon as it becomes soft, as it will re-harden very quickly.
4.2.11.
After softening, shaped or profiled surfaces may be stripped by using a wire brush.
4.2.12.
To protect surrounding surfaces from the heat gun cover with non-flammable material.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT concentrate the heat gun on windows or glass surfaces as the glass may crack.
5. PLASTIC WELDING TOOL
HS102 may be adjusted for use as a Plastic Welding Tool (welding kits available as described in part 3 - included with HS102K).
5.1.
Testing materials to be welded: most adhesion failures are due to the incorrect matching of materials. The welding rod
therefore must be of the same material as the item to be welded. For instance, most car body parts are made of ABS material.
Some manufacturers however, use different plastics in their products. To test, snip off a piece of material from the work to be welded
and proceed as follows:
▲
DANGER: Step 5.1.1 must be performed in a well ventilated area (out of doors if possible). never perform task in a domestic
building. Safeguard against fire. Wear safety gloves and face mask. DO NOT inhale smoke.
5.1.1.
Set light to the sample with a naked flame. If the flame gives off black smoke it is (almost) certain to be ABS.
5.1.2.
By sample, take a strip of material from an unobtrusive part of the component and use it as your welding rod.
5.1.3.
If in doubt, contact the item manufacturer.
5.1.4.
WELDING THE MATERIAL
5.1.5.
Remove any paint or other covering from the entire adjoining surface areas of the piece to be welded.
5.1.6.
Cut a chamfer on adjoining pieces to form a groove that can be filled with weld.
5.1.7.
Using the hot air gun (without any welding rod loaded) thoroughly pre-heat both surfaces to be welded (they should be soft but not tacky).
5.1.8.
Fit the 9mm reduction nozzle to the gun and the welding nozzle to the reduction nozzle.
5.1.9.
Select a low to medium heat by turning the temperature regulator at rear of the gun. experience will determine the setting, but we
suggest position 6 which gives 330-340°C as a starting position for most commonly used plastics.
5.1.10.
Select the fan speed setting on the hot air gun according to the size and thickness of material being welded (i.e. Thin = Two, Thick =
Three).
5.1.11.
now position the nozzle over the material to be welded and feed the welding rod through the slot at the same time moving the gun along
the groove at a speed according to the melt/ adhesion rate.
5.1.12.
A good connection is made when a small dome forms (a trial is always recommended using an odd piece of material). With practice, a
good flat weld can be achieved by applying pressure on the nozzle as the rod is drawn along. A roller is available as an optional extra.
5.1.13.
overlapping materials can be removed with a sharp knife.
5.2.
WELDING PROBLEM CHECKLIST If a weld fails ask yourself the following questions:
5.2.1.
do the materials match?
5.2.2.
Are both surfaces clean?
5.2.3.
Are surfaces chamfered?
5.2.4.
Have surfaces been pre-heated correctly?
5.2.5.
did the welding rod melt to the correct consistency?
5.3.
IMPORTANT NOTES.
5.3.1.
To weld over cracks in the material, drill approximately 1/16" diameter holes at each end of the crack to prevent running during welding
and sanding.
5.3.2.
Handling the welding nozzles - The nozzle gets very hot and should only be removed with pliers or allowed to cool if removing by hand.
6. MAINTENANCE
Unplug gun from power supply and allow to cool before performing any maintenance.
‰
6.1.
Keep the air intake and outlet openings clean and free from dirt and peelings.
6.2.
only use a damp cloth and mild household cleaning agent to wipe the gun clean. DO NOT use turpentine, paint thinner, gasoline, or
similar substance to clean the gun.
6.3.
Check the gun, power lead and nozzles for damage before storage.
6.4.
Store the gun in a safe, dry, childproof location.
7.
OTHER TASKS
The gun may also be used for the following:
Removing self-adhesive stickers and trim. Loosening rusted or over-tightened nuts and metal screws. Thawing frozen pipes, frozen
doors, padlocks, etc. defrosting ice-compartments. Fast drying of paint or varnish. Highlighting natural woodgrain before staining, or
varnishing. Softening old putty. drying wet timber prior to repairs or finishing. Shrinking PVC shrink-wrap sheeting. Shrinking polyvinyl
wire joints. Soldering. Sterilisation (500°C). Removing candle wax and restoring candles. Binding of engine parts. Repair of tarpaulin or
PVC. Joining garden hose. liquifying pewter, tar, bitumen or wax. model making. moulding PVC, Copper, Plexiglass into shape.
Plumbing tasks. Roofing repairs. Applying veneer strips. Control of garden path weeds. Waxing and de-waxing skis. Chemistry: use as a
bunsen-burner and more.
IMPORTANT: Safety is a key principle when endeavouring to use the gun for different tasks. When approaching a new task, consider
the potential dangers that may arise, take any necessary precautions, and practice before attempting the job.
© Jack Sealey limited
Original Language Version
HS102.V3 & HS102K.V3 Issue 2 (1)
30/09/19
Advertisement
