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6
Installation of burner
Mount the burner's mounting plate into one of the boiler hatches, or dismount the hatch,
where the burner is supposed to be installed, together with the hatch frame. Now drill holes
into the burner's mounting plate, which must correspond to the mounting holes in the hatch
frame. Then bolt the mounting plate to the boiler and make sure the installation is completely
air-tight.
Remove any loose grates from the boiler. Some boilers also have flue gas "brakes" (for oil hea-
ting) that must be removed.
NOTE: Regardless of the type of burner, the distance between the front edge of the burner
grate section and the rear wall of the boiler's combustion chamber must be at least 00-50
mm. If this is not the case, a 70mm spacer frame can be installed, to be ordered from us.
The burner is primarily intended for installation in the opening where the oil burner has been
sitting. On certain boilers, the burner can also be mounted into the hatch, if the hatch's hinge
and lock are sufficiently strong to be able to carry the burner; furthermore, the hatch must be
secured with a switch (limit switch type). You can also make a new hatch with an opening for
the burner, as well as an adapter plate if you want to now and then heat with different fuels.
Place the feed auger into the pellets storage bin and then fill the bin with pellets (not the other
way around, as you won't be able to get the auger down into a filled bin). If need be, make
a hole into the bin wall to obtain proper auger inclination. The auger must not be inclined
more than 45°, otherwise pellets feeding might become uneven, leading to disturbances. After
its installation, plug the feed auger into a wall socket. Now the auger is filling up with pellets,
which will take some 0 minutes. When the pellets start dropping into the burner hose, stop
the feed auger and plug it into the burner.
The electrical connection of the burner must follow the enclosed wiring diagram and be
carried out by a certified electrician. The electrical power must be wired through a double ther-
mostat on the boiler. If there is a hot-water tank, it might be possible to attach an operating
thermostat on top of the tank, or else a contact thermostat, to achieve the best results.
NOTE: The degrees shown on the thermostat can deviate somewhat from the actual water
temperature in the tank.
Prior to starting the burner, dismount the burner hose, light a match and hold it over the
burner's fuel pipe. Now the flame should be sucked down into the burner opening, indicating
that there is negative pressure in the boiler. If this is not the case, check if secondary air valves
or hatches are leaking air. This test must be repeated after the burner has been operating for
5-30 minutes. Continue testing now and then; if you detect counter-pressure from the boiler,
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