Table of Contents Section 1 — Introduction ……………………………………………..…………………………..………………..…... About ANK Audio Kits ……………………………………………..…………………………..……………..…..Evolution of the L1 EL84 Integrated Amplifier V2 ………………………….…………..…... Equipment ……………………………..………………………………………………………………………..… 1.3.1 Overview of the Kit ……………………………………………………….………….…………...… Tips and Suggestions …………………………………………………….………….………………………..….… 1.4.1 Soldering …………………………………………………….……….……………………………...… 1.4.2 Components ……………………….…………………………….…………………………………..….…...
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Section 4 — RCA, Selector Switch, and Volume Pot Installation and Wiring ..Overview ……………………....……………………………………..………..….…………….…..… Installing the RCA Jacks ……………………..………………………..………..….…………….…..… Installing the Volume Pot and PCB ……………………..……………………………………...…..… Wiring the RCA Jacks and Volume Pot Ground ……………………..………………...……….…..… Wiring the RCA Jacks and Volume Pot Signal Wires ……………………..…………….…..…...
Section 1 Introduction Thank you for purchasing the new ANK Audio Kits L1 EL84 Integrated Amplifier V2. This is a high end and sophisticated piece of audio equipment that will surely become the centerpiece of your sound system! We are excited that you have chosen to join us on the path of audio superiority, and thus, we have created this manual to help guide you through each step of the assembly process with as much detail and clarity as possible.
Kits began offering this service for Level 4 and 5 products so that a significant investment in a kit could be turned into a work of art! Since ANK Audio Kits was born in 2004, over 2,500 kits have been shipped to customers worldwide. Clearly, there is a real demand for high end audio kits and ANK Audio Kits has been delivering the goods now for 15 years.
(http://www.ankaudiokits.com/PDF/AudioNoteKits_DIY_SKILLS.pdf). This guide gives an overall introduction to kit building skills and soldering, as well as the arrangement of the ANK Audio Kits components. In your kit you will find a series of kit bags containing all the hardware, wire, and parts for the associated sections of the amplifier.
That way of looking at things sometimes now no longer applies. Please be assured that all resistors supplied with ANK Audio Kits are rated at least per the specified wattage: in some cases, a higher than specified wattage may be supplied.
normally, the voltage rating of the supplied capacitors will be exactly what you see on the parts lists. Occasionally, a part may be supplied with a higher voltage. Think nothing of it! 1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors For those who have not built a piece of electronics before, here is a little lesson on capacitors. There are basically two types of capacitors that we use in the kits: electrolytic and signal capacitors.
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches From time to time we get asked about some of the build details of the ANK Finished Products that you can see in the pictures in the "Assembled Kits Gallery!" (https://ankits.smugmug.com/) on our website.
wires), cable ties (to secure large capacitors), stacked (male/female) standoffs and cable clamps (to elevate and secure signal cables), and cable sleeving. You can get some of these from your local hardware store (for example, 1/4" Cable Clamps) and other, more specialized, parts from online distributors such as Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, or Cable Ties and More.
1.5.2 Organization of this Manual This manual is intended for the new, upgraded version (V2) of the L1 EL84 Integrated Amplifier and for both the EI-Core and C-Core variants. The upgrades include 4 line inputs, a new chassis with changes to the IO configuration on the back channel to keep the inputs away from the Power Supply, the addition of an IEC printed circuit board (PCB), and a Dyna-Choke.
There are sufficient voltages in this kit to give you a very nasty and harmful shock, so be careful when powering on, debugging, and probing around. Please contact ANK Audio Kits via phone or email (audionotekits@rogers.com) to discuss any precautions necessary when building the kit if you feel unsure about what you are doing at any stage of the build.
Section 2 Chassis, AC, and Mains Transformer installation This section of the manual has a number of pictures from a build of the previous version of the amplifier and you will notice, in particular, that the Rocker Switch and IEC position have flipped in the upgrade (the IEC is now on top) and that the configuration of the holes for line inputs and speaker posts is different.
Installing the IEC and Rocker Switch With the Mains transformer approximately in position we can to install the IEC and Rocker Switch. Do not screw the Mains transformer in yet, as we need to access the IEC area. It's easier to do this first and then install the Mains.
Wiring the IEC, Rocker Switch, and Chassis Ground Reminder: Don't be confused by the physical layout here or the colors of the wires connecting the IEC to the Rocker Switch. Just make the connections as you see them. Let's wire the IEC, Rocker Switch, and Chassis Ground. Before we begin, have a careful look at the following diagram.
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Insert the Green wire into the Ground lug and solder it in place. Do this by adding solder through the front of the lug, as shown below. Add a fair bit of solder and apply heat for at least ten seconds, as the solder must “take” to connect to the lug.
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Next, let's attach the IEC Ground cable, which has been prepared for you, to the IEC. Take the prepared Green cable with the Ground lug on one end and the square crimp on the other and connect the crimp onto the Ground on the IEC (on the bottom). We'll attach the other end of this wire and the Green Mains ground lug we prepared earlier in a few minutes.
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Next we'll make some connections to the Rocker Switch and the IEC. This is where you will need to “move” the Mains transformer so you can plug on the crimped ends of the prepared cable onto the Rocker Switch and the IEC. Attach the crimps of one end of the twisted Blue–Brown (or Red–Black) wires to the more narrow spaced lugs on the Rocker Switch.
IEC PCB Wiring Now we'll wire the IEC PCB, which will make the remaining wiring from the Rocker Switch to the Mains transformer much easier to follow and to implement. 120V and 240V Operation Cut the four wires (White, White-Grey, Black, and Black-Grey) coming out of the Mains Primary to 30 cm.
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120V and 240V Operation Referencing the appropriate diagram below (they're identical except for the jumpers you've already installed), complete the IEC/rocker switch wiring as follows: Tin and solder the unprepared ends of the half-prepared Red and Black wires in the IEC bag onto the IEC PCB, as shown.
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Push the crimped ends of the Red and Black wires coming from the IEC PCB onto the left lugs of the rocker switch, Red on top, Black below. Apply the pressure necessary to position the wires correctly onto the lugs. Using the prepared Blue–Brown twisted and crimped pair of wires, connect the IEC socket —...
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Finally, let's make the chassis Ground connections. Retrieve the Green ground wire from the Mains transformer and the Green IEC ground wire, using a nut, tightly secure the two grounds: the Green Mains Primary wire and the Green wire from the bottom lug of the IEC socket to the chassis ground lug, as shown below. Next, let's test these important connections.
Section 3 Dyna-Choke installation Overview In this section we'll install the Dyna-Choke. As we mentioned in the Introduction, the Dyna-Choke, which is really just our internal name, is an upgrade in this new version of the kit. A choke is an inductor that is used to smooth the power supply voltage.
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For each pair of inputs, let's put the Red on top and the Black on the bottom. For each jack, use the following steps: Insert into the chassis from the outside: The white insulating washer with the raised ring facing inwards into the hole ...
Installing the Volume Pot and PCB Our next step is to install the ALPS Volume Pot and its small PCB on the front of the chassis. Here are the parts, positioned correctly: but the ALPS As you can see in the picture above, the Volume Pot PCB has 4 holes at the top, Volume Pot only has 3 pins Position the PCB over the 3 pins, through the left 3 holes on the PCB and solder the PCB to the pot.
Wiring the RCA Jacks and Volume Pot Ground We are now going to make the Ground connection between the RCAs and the Volume Pot. Read this section completely through before completing the steps. Take the Black insulated solid core wire supplied with the kit and lay it out parallel to the with the long horizontal plane of the chassis across and between the RCAs, as shown below, end of the wire in the middle of the chassis, not the edge.
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bend the wire at the end closest to the middle of the Once the Ground wire is in place, chassis (not nearest the edge) to bring it down (more or less) in the middle of the back of the chassis — then lay it out across the chassis, approximately in the middle, as shown in the picture below, and up under the Volume Pot to where it will be connected.
Wiring the RCA Jacks and Volume Pot Signal Wires With the RCA Ground section done, we can now wire up the Left and Right audio signal wires. When working with the RCA jacks we use the following procedure: Tin the signal leads. ...
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As you did with the Ground wire, take your time and neatly route the signal wire pairs — this time along the side of the chassis as shown in the picture below. Later, we'll connect these wires to the ELMA selector switch. For the moment you can just leave them lying neatly loose.
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Here are the parts we'll be using: and here's a picture of the completed board: Feel free to check out the high resolution pictures on the disk as you move through the build. Start by taking the PCB parts bag and dividing up all the parts into resistors, capacitors, and the other parts.
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and here is the resistors parts list: Resistors Quantity Value Wattage Designation 150K 1/2W R1A, R1B 390R 1/2W R2A, R2B 100R 1/2W R3A, R3B 560K 1/2W R4A, R4B R5A, R5B, R6A, R6B 1/2W R7A, R7B 1/2W R8A, R8B 1/2W R9A, R9B, R10A, R10B 270R R11A, R11B, R12A, R12B 680R...
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It’s also a good idea to not have the resistors installed right against the board, for a couple of reasons: 1) it's better for heat disposition, and 2) in some cases there are circuit traces running under the resistors and we really don't want resistors touching them. So, as shown below (on a board from a different kit), we use a narrow piece of cardboard cut to size as a 2–3 mm spacer: this will still let you solder while ensuring that the resistor is not pressing against the board.
Installing the Capacitors Next, let's install some of the capacitors. There are several different types of capacitors that will be installed. The type that you'll really need to pay close attention to are called electrolytic capacitors, which we'll get to in a moment. Capacitors Quantity Type...
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Now let's install some of the electrolytic capacitors. You'll remember from the Introduction to the manual that the stripe on an electrolytic capacitor denotes the NEGATIVE side. On the board you'll see a + sign which denotes the POSITIVE side. Be sure to align the capacitors correctly into position.
Installing the Valve Bases Now that the resistors are installed let's install the valve bases: we have the Black 9-pin CMC bases for the EL84 tubes to be fitted into the top 4 positions, and the White 9-pin bases for the ECF80 tubes in the driver section.
Building the Power Supply Next we'll build the Power Supply, which is located in the top right part of the board. Here are the parts we'll need: These are: Quantity Type Value Designation Diodes 1N4007 D1, D2, D3, D4 Brown Capacitors (non C9, C10 —...
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Install diodes D1, D2, D3, and D4, taking care to align the silver stripe on the diodes with the bar on the stencils on the board. You can also use a small piece of cardboard to maintain 2– 3 mm clearance above the board, as you did earlier with the resistors. Install the 2 non polarized Brown capacitors in C9 and C10, next to the diodes.
Mounting the PCB Now that we've built the board, let's install it in the chassis, as shown: Use the supplied 1/2" standoffs, line them up with the 7 locations you can see on the board, and install them in the chassis. Don't screw the PCB to the standoffs yet. Note that the bottom Right location should be an unsoldered chassis tab, which acts as a Ground connection.
5.7.1 Connecting the Dyna-Choke Finally, before we complete the installation of the board, let's connect the Dyna-Choke to it. It's a very short connection, as shown below. The Dyna-Choke wires are actually Black, but we've shown them in Grey in this picture/graphic so that it's easier to see.
Section 6 Installing and Wiring the Selector Switch Overview We've already prepared the signal wire sets from the RCAs; these hold the Left and Right audio channel signals. Next, we'll be wiring these into the ELMA Selector Switch which will be located on the front left of the chassis.
You'll notice that there are 4 ground lugs included in the chassis fittings bag. Once the speaker posts are installed we will be soldering the output transformer Secondary wires to the speaker posts using the same technique we used when adding the ground lug to the Mains transformer. Install the speaker posts into the rear of the chassis with the Red and Black posts positioned as shown below: Output Transformers...
Section 8 Interwiring We have a new version of the PCB which has a few slight changes. All the connections are there but some things are in slightly different positions on the PCB compared to the graphics: Just follow the names on the PCB for the correct connections. Connecting the Filaments Let's make some connections now between the components we have installed.
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The new version PCB has the 8R COM and COM 8R in slightly different locations. Use the PCB itself for the correct location of these connection points. Have a look at the graphic above and on the next page to perform the task of connecting the feedback wires from the speaker posts to the PCB.
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As indicated in the above graphic, connect the twisted Red–Black solid core wires from the ends of the speaker posts to the 8R and COM tabs on the PCB. Connect the Purple and Green wires from the output transformers Secondary to the lugs on the speaker posts, as shown: Purple wire to the Red post, Green wire to the Black post.
Connecting the Volume Pot Referencing the picture/graphic below, take the twisted wires provided and make the following connections between the Volume Pot PCB and the main PCB. Connect the Yellow wire from a twisted Yellow–Brown twisted pair from R OUT on the Volume Pot PCB to IN/P-A on the main PCB.
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Before we go any further, take a look at the high resolution pictures on the disk to verify that all the correct connections have been made. When you have completed all the wiring you can install the tubes: the 4 EL84 tubes go into the 4 positions nearest the output transformers while the 2 ECF80 tubes go into the front two positions.
Section 9 Power On and Testing When you are ready to test your amplifier you can install the fuse into position in the IEC socket, then power on the unit. If the fuse does not blow then you can go ahead and check the 5 test points on the PCB using your multimeter.
Section 10 Finishing Touches 10.1 Installing the Front Faceplate and Knobs Remove the protective films from the front and back of the front faceplate. Install the front faceplate using four Black M4 CSK flat head screws. Install the 2 Gold knobs. 10.2 Installing the LED Finally you can attach the LED wires to the PL/LED RED position on the PCB.
Section 11 Final Thoughts 11.1 Congratulations If you make it to this point then CONGRATULATIONS! — you are ready to insert your amplifier into your main system and enjoy it. 11.2 Cables In our experience, high quality cables make a difference. A good power cable should make a noticeable improvement to the sound, and the analog interconnects do as well.
For output tubes there are a number of NOS and new production EL84/6BQ5 types available. 11.4 Thanks Thank you for investing in the ANK Audio Kits L1 EL84 Integrated Amplifier V2 and for working your way through the assembly. Please email us your thoughts to audionotekits@rogers.com and let us know how everything went —...
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