Changing The Fuse; Paraffin Refills - Whitehall Dickson PB-101 Instructions For Operation And Care Of

Instructions for Operation and Care of Dickson Paraffin Baths
the cord to the electrical outlet and the Bath will soon be
ready again for the patient's use.
This operation removes 1 to 3 pounds (0.45 to 1.36 kg) of
paraffin from the solution and it should be replaced by
adding fresh paraffin and oil to the bath.

CHANGING THE FUSE

Turn the Dickson Paraffin unit off via the controls on the
front panel and then unplug the unit.
Next, position the unit to allow access to the rear of
paraffin bath. Locate the fuse holders at rear of the unit.
Depress the fuse holder caps with the use of a "common"
blade screwdriver or fingers and rotate counterclockwise
approximately 90° or until the cap becomes loose.
Remove the fuse holder cap, exposing the glass fuse.
Remove the blown fuse.
Once the old fuse has been removed, replace it with a new
fuse of the same type and amperage. Re-install the fuse
holder cap by depressing and rotating clockwise
approximately 90° and ensure that the fuse holder caps
are secured. Turn the unit on via plugging it in to an
electrical outlet. Allow the wax to warm up to the operating
temperature and use as required.

PARAFFIN REFILLS

Whitehall Manufacturing can provide refill paraffin wax
(Paraffin Oil sold separately and can be purchased
through your therapy products dealer). If the factory
paraffin is not used and the paraffin is purchased
elsewhere, it is most important that 126°F (52.2°C)
melting point paraffin be obtained. If this is not done, the
Bath will not operate at a high enough temperature to
keep the paraffin liquid or, if adjusted to overcome this,
will be too hot for use by all except the strongest patients.
Dickson Paraffin Bath FAQ
1) Breakers kick out when paraffin bath is plugged in:
If fuses in paraffin bath did not also blow out, there is too much
load on breaker. Try another electrical outlet.
2) Fuses blow when plugged in:
There is a dead ground in the unit. The unit must be opened up
for repairs.
3) On/off light does not turn on when plugged in:
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WHITEHALL MANUFACTURING • P.O. BOX 3527 • City of Industry, CA 91744-0527 U.S.A Phone (800) 782-
7706 • (626) 968-6681 • Fax (626) 855-4862 • Web: www.whitehallmfg.com
First check the fuses to see if they are blown. Next, check
the circuit breaker on the building to see if it has been
tripped. Third, the green light may be broken.
(For PB-104 & PB-105: 6902-135-000 and for the PB-101 &
PB107: 6902-122-000)
4) On/off light is dark even though the paraffin bath is
plugged in and is melting wax properly:
The green light (see No. 3 above) is no good or has been wired
wrong.
5) Paraffin bath gets hot enough to get to the sanitize (high
heat) temperature, melts the wax, but won't cool down:
Bad high-temp overheating sensor (6903-144-000 or L-200)
or the timer could be stuck (6902-348-000) 6) Bath will not
get to the sanitize temperature:
Bad low temp overheating sensor (6903-146-000 or L-
145) or bad high temp overheating sensor (6903-144-000
or L-200) or heating element needs to be replaced (see
parts list). It is also possible that the unit has been wired
wrong.
7) Bath goes to high, 200°F+ or 93.3°C+ but proceeds to
cool down to room temperature
Check adjustable operating thermostat on the back of the
unit (PB-101 & PB-107) or remove front cover (PB-104 &
PB-105) and make sure it is turned all the way clockwise. If
the temperature does not rise in 1 to 2 hours, the heating
element (see parts list) is bad or it has been wired wrong .
Also, the unit may have a bad capillary (6902-140-000) 8)
Timer is stuck:
Remove the knob, loosen the nut slightly and try the timer
again. If it still is stuck then the timer is bad (6902-348-000).
9) Wax is not melting all the way:
The wax in the paraffin bath must reach 200°F+ or 93.3°C+
when melting the wax for the first time. In order to fully be
sure that the unit has reached the proper temperature,
make sure the timer has been through at least 2 cycles (3
cycles for larger units). If the wax still does not melt, then
the wax may be bad.
10) Old wax not melting properly and hardening over
time after continual reuse:
If the wax is at a temperature range of 127° to 130°F (52.8° to
54.4°C) and has been continually reused for months, then it is
likely that the oil content has been depleted from the wax. Add
oil or get new wax. If the wax in the bath is partially melted then
a new heating element is not needed. If the wax goes completely
solid, then they will need a new heating element. (see parts list).
11) Wax is too hot for patient and the unit is at lowest
possible operating temperature (126°F or 52.2°C):
Either different wax needs to be purchased with a lower melting
temperature or a temperature acclimation procedure can be
followed. This procedure involves dipping the patient's hand from