Installation Instructions - Xylem JABSCO 29120-5000 Installation Instructions Manual

YOUR TOILET is just one part of a system. Correct installation of the
whole system is essential if you want the toilet to perform properly, op-
erate reliably and safely, and give satisfactory length of life. The toilet is
delivered assembled for right-handed operation. If you wish, both Reg-
ular and Compact Bowl models may be re-assembled with the pump
on the left hand side. The seat and lid is delivered boxed and unfitted
for its protection.
NB: Key numbers, e.g. ('Key 31'), are references to the explod-
ed view diagram on the back page.
1. Re-assembly for left hand use
If you wish to change the pump mounting from right to left hand, do so
before installing the toilet.
• Pull off the hose (key 4) that runs from the pump to the bowl.
• Remove the 4 screws (key 31) that secure the pump assembly to
the base.
• Lift off the pump assembly and leave the base valve gasket (key 16)
on its 3 locating pegs.
• Remove the 4 bolts (key 11) that secure the bowl to the base.
• Rotate the bowl 180° and re-secure it, using the nylon washers (key
14) to protect the ceramic from the stainless steel washers and nuts
(key 13,12).
• Rotate the pump assembly 180° and re-secure it.
• Rotate the push-fit intake elbow (key 6) 180° and refit the hose be-
tween the pump and the bowl.
2. Location
• Select a location that will give sufficient clearance all round and
above the toilet. Ensure that there is room to operate the pump
and that there is access to the drain plug at the end of the base.
• The mounting surface must be flat, rigid and strong enough to
support a man's weight and should be at least 50mm (2") wider
and 50mm (2") deeper than the base of the toilet.
• You will need sufficient clearance below the mounting surface to
be able to secure the mounting bolts.
• The seat and lid should be able to swing up and over at least
110°, so that they will not fall forward when the craft heels or
pitches. When they are swung up they must be supported so
that the hinges are not strained.
3. Mounting
YOU WILL need:
• 4 x 8mm (5/16") diameter stainless steel bolts of length to suit the
thickness of the mounting surface.
• 4 stainless steel nuts, preferably self-locking. If you do not use
self-locking nuts you will need some nut-locking compound.
• 8 large stainless steel washers not more than 21mm (13/16") diam-
eter.
• A small tube of white silicone sealant.
1. Offer up the toilet in the selected position and, using the holes
in the base as a guide, mark the positions for the 4 bolt holes on
the mounting surface. Remove the toilet and drill 4 vertical holes
of 9mm (3/8") diameter through the mounting surface.
2. Apply a bead of white silicone sealant to the outer rim of the
bottom base.
3. Bolt down the toilet and tighten the fastenings securely. If you
are not using self-locking nuts, use nut-locking compound.
4. Through hull fittings
YOU WILL need:
19mm (3/4") bore seacock for the flushing water inlet, and,
if you are discharging the waste overboard, a 38mm (11/2")
bore seacock for the waste outlet.
• Follow the seacock manufacturer's own instructions concerning
materials and methods of installation.
• Ensure the inlet seacock is positioned where it will be below
the waterline at all times when the craft is underway, and also
ensure that any outlet seacock is both aft of, and higher than,
the inlet seacock.
HAZARD RISK: Through hull fittings.
2

Installation Instructions

If the installation of the toilet results in it being connected to ANY
through-hull fitting that may possibly be below the waterline at ANY
time, whether when the craft is at rest, underway and heeling or roll-
ing or pitching, you must install the toilet in accordance with these
Installation Instructions. If you do not, water may flood in, causing
the craft to sink, which may result in loss of life. FOLLOW THESE IN-
STRUCTIONS!
HAZARD RISK: Accidental damage.
If the toilet is connected to ANY through-hull fittings and if the toilet
or pipework is damaged, water may flood in causing the craft to sink,
which may result in loss of life.
Therefore, if you are making connections between the toilet and ANY
through-hull fittings that may possibly be below the waterline at ANY
time, full bore seacocks MUST be fitted to those hull fittings, to allow
them to be shut off.
The seacocks MUST also be positioned where they are easily accessi-
ble to all users of the toilet. If, for any reason, it is not possible to do
this, then secondary full bore marine quality valves MUST be fitted to
the hoses where they are easily accessible.
USE SEACOCKS!
CAUTION: Use lever operated, full bore marine
seacocks and valves. The use of screw-down gate
valves is not recommended.
5. Pipework - selection of correct method
YOU MUST select the correct method for the inlet pipework from
2 options and for the outlet pipework from 4 options, according to
whether the toilet is above or below the waterline, and to whether
it discharges the waste overboard or into an on-board holding tank.
HAZARD RISK: Pipework becomes loose
If the toilet is connected to ANY through-hull fittings and if the pipe-
work becomes disconnected, either from a through-hull fitting or sea-
cock, or from the toilet or any secondary valve, water may flood in and
may cause the craft to sink, which may result in loss of life.
Therefore the ends of ALL flexible hoses fitted directly or indirectly
between the toilet and ANY through-hull fitting that may possibly be
below the waterline at ANY time, MUST be secured to the hose tails to
which they are connected, using two stainless steel worm-drive hose
clamps. USE HOSE CLAMPS!
5.1 Pipework - General instructions for all options
YOU WILL need:
1. Spiral reinforced smooth bore flexible hoses for both the 19mm
(3/4") id inlet and the 38mm (11/2") id outlet pipework
2. Two stainless steel worm-drive hose clips for every hose tail
connection (4, 6 or 8).
• Secure the hose runs so that the hoses cannot move and chafe,
and so that they do not exert any leverage on the hose tail fit-
tings to which they are connected, as this may cause adjacent
joints to leak.
• Avoid sharp bends in the hoses that may cause them to become
kinked.
• Keep all pipework lengths as short as possible, whilst complying
with these instructions. Unnecessary inlet or outlet hose length
just makes the toilet harder to pump.
• If it is difficult to fit the hose onto the hose tails of the toilet or
seacocks, lubricate it with water, or soften the hose by dipping
the end of it in hot water.