Page 1 #10309 Basic Customizable Nostalgia All Black Chassis Harness – 17 Circuit Painless Performance Products recommends you, the installer, read this installation manual from front to back before installing this harness. Due to the variables in modifications that can be done to vehicles, reading this manual will give you considerable insight on the proper installation of this harness.
Page 2 If you have any questions concerning the installation of this harness, feel free to call Painless Performance Products' tech line at 1-800-423-9696. Calls are answered from 8am to 5pm central time, Monday thru Thursday, 8am to4:30pm Fridays, except holidays.
Page 3 CAUTION: BEFORE THE REMOVAL OF YOUR ORIGINAL HARNESS AND/OR THE INSTALL OF YOUR NEW PAINLESS HARNESS, DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM YOUR VEHICLE BY REMOVING THE NEGATIVE OR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY.THE BATTERY IS NOT TO BE CONNECTED UNTIL THE PAINLESS HARNESS HAS BEEN INSTALLED AND TESTED.
Page 4: Table Of Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE # SECTION INTRODUCTION CONTENTS SMALL PARTS TOOLS NEEDED PRE-INSTALLATION GUIDELINES INSTALLING FACTORY TERMINALS GROUNDS FUSE BLOCK Horn relay Flashers Fuse Identification Relays & Switches Fuse Block Mounting FUSE BLOCK HARNESS ROUTING COMPONENT OUTPUT HARNESS ROUTING HEADLIGHT SECTION CONNECTIONS Left/Driver Side Headlight Headlight w/ Pigtails Left Turn/Park Light...
Page 5 Schematics, Diagrams, & Photos PAGE # SECTION NOTES diagram CONTENTS photo JAW STYLE CRIMPERS picture TERMINAL INSTALLATION pictures GOOD & BAD GROUND SOURCE diagrams GROUND SCHEMATIC FUSE IDENTIFICATION diagrams FUSE BLOCK MOUNTING photos FUSE BLOCK HARNESS diagram FUSE BLOCK HARNESS ROUTING diagram COMPONENT OUTPUT HARNESS diagram COMPONENT OUTPUT HARNESS ROUTING diagram COMPONENT &...
Page 6: Introduction
INTRODUCTION Thank you for your purchase of a Painless Performance product. These instructions along with the Painless harness have been designed to allow you, the installer, the cleanest and easiest install possible. During the course of reading this manual you will notice wire colors with a slash, as an example Black/White.
Page 7: Contents
Planning connections beforehand will give you a better understanding of what needs to be routed, if any additional wires may need to be added, and how to make the best use of any extra circuits provided in the Painless harness. CONTENTS OF THE PAINLESS WIRE HARNESS KIT Refer to the Contents Figure (below) to take inventory.
Page 8: Small Parts
You may be wondering… “Why two harnesses in this kit instead of just one grouped together like most harnesses?” You will notice one harness has a fuse block pre-installed. This will be known in this manual as the FUSE BLOCK HARNESS. This harness contains all of the power wires to components like the headlight switch, turn signal switch, brake switch etc.
Page 9: Tools Needed
Remember, as the zip ties are installed and the harness is routed, wrap the tie around the harness and LOOSELY tie the harness. Make sure you leave enough room to pull and push the harness as you make your connections. Only when all connections have been made will you tighten the zip ties.
Page 10: Pre-Installation Guidelines
Heat Gun: Very useful to shrink the heat-shrinkable terminals found in the parts kit.  Small (10 amp or less) Battery Charger See TESTING THE SYSTEM located on page 145.  Factory Wire Schematic This isn’t absolutely necessary; however, having one handy is good practice with any electrical job.
Page 11: Installing Factory Terminals
INSTALLING FACTORY STYLE TERMINALS In the parts kit you will see different non-insulated male and female terminals. These terminals are for factory style connections and require roll over crimpers. Strip about ¼” of insulation off of the wire. Insert the wire into the terminal. There are 2 terminal straps on the terminal.
Page 12 Throughout this instruction manual and when looking at the Painless harness you will see the word GROUND, maybe you’ve seen the ground symbol on wire diagrams? What exactly is a ground and why do you need it? You’ve probably noticed the large cable coming from the negative side of your battery going down to the sub frame or to the engine.
Page 13 passes cleanly through the bulb causing it to illuminate and the current exits the bulb through the ground source back to the battery. The ground allows everything to work properly without any issues. When a ground isn’t connected or is contaminated with dirt, corrosion, or paint, the voltage will find the easiest path to ground, which is represented in the diagram below.
Page 15: Fuse Block
FUSE BLOCK The Painless harness contains an 8 circuit fuse block that uses modern ATC blade style fuses. This fuse block allows the convenience of having both flashers (turn signal and hazard), as well as the horn relay, to be mounted in one location. Horn Relay On the fuse block you will find a horn relay, which replaces the factory core...
Page 16: Fuse Identification
Fuse Identification The following two diagrams and information will detail each fuse and which components/circuits each fuse powers. The drawing above shows all the battery power fuses. These fuses are powered by a wire that comes from the large power splice, seen on page 53. All of these battery power fuses fuses will have power at all times.
Page 17: Relays & Switches
Relays and Switches All ACCESSORY wires found in this harness can support up to 15 amps. Components requiring more amperage will need to be connected to a relay. An ACCESSORY wire can be used as a 12 volt activation source or 12 volt source for Painless part #’s 30107 &...
Page 18: Fuse Block Mounting
In the event that a toggle/rocker switch is being used without a relay, make sure the amperage of the component you are powering does not exceed the capabilities of the switch. Switch failure will occur. Fuse Block Mounting Locate the harness with the fuse block pre-installed. To begin mounting the fuse block, you will need to find a suitable location that will allow easy access in the event you have to replace a fuse, and also allow enough length for the wires to reach things like the ignition switch, headlight switch, etc.
Page 20: Fuse Block Harness Routing
FUSE BLOCK HARNESS ROUTING Loosely route all of the following wire groups to their designated connection points. NO CONNECTIONS OR CUTTING WILL TAKE PLACE AT THIS TIME. A complete layout of the Fuse Block Harness can be found on the previous page. Route the 3 sections intended for engine compartment connection towards the front of the vehicle.
Page 22: Component Output Harness Routing
COMPONENT OUTPUT HARNESS ROUTING Loosely route all of the following wire groups to their designated connection points. NO CONNECTIONS OR CUTTING WILL TAKE PLACE AT THIS TIME. A complete layout of the Component Output Harness can be found on the previous page. On the Component Output harness, locate the area seen circled in red in the schematic on the previous page.
Page 23 With both harnesses now routed you can begin using the small 4” zip ties provided in the kit to tie the two harnesses together to create one harness. The drawing below shows that if routed correctly both harnesses should be close , if not side by side or one top of each other, making tying them together rather easy.
Page 24: Headlight Section Connections
HEADLIGHT SECTION CONNECTIONS The HEADLIGHT SECTION of this Painless Harness includes all power and ground wires needed to properly hook up both driver and passenger side headlights, and left and right front turn & park/marker lights. There is also a power wire from the fuse block mounted horn relay to power a horn.
Page 25 The connection of these three wires will depend on the style headlights you are using in your application… 3 prong, Sealed Beam/ Sealed Beam Halogen/ H4 halogen Connectors and terminals have been provided in the parts kit to allow proper connection to these 3 prong headlights.
Page 26 Plug the connector onto the prongs of the headlamp. Make sure the connector is inserted straight onto the prongs as these prongs will easily bend making a proper connection difficult. If halogen bulbs are being used Painless recommends using Painless part 30815.
Page 27 Each wire, coming from the headlight bucket as well as the Painless Harness will be cut to length and have ¼” of insulation stripped from them. Connect the splice to each of the 3 wires on the Painless harness, taking the split on the splice into consideration as shown on page 8.
Page 28: Left Turn/Park Light
“Left Turn/Park Light” The Left Turn/Park Light of the Painless harness consists of 3 wires, These wires are: Black/Brown: 18 gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #927 TO FRONT LEFT PARK LIGHT, is the power source for the park light. This wire is spliced to the other #927 wire in the Head Light Section and also with a #927 wire going to the Headlight Switch.
Page 29: Horn
“Horn” The Headlight Section has a single wire dedicated for connection to a horn. *Most horns ground through their mounting and only require a power connection. This wire is: Black/Green: 16 gauge wire, printed [HEADLIGHT SECTION] #924 HORN POWER, this is a power wire that comes from the fuse block mounted horn relay which is ground activated by the horn button on the steering column.
Page 31: Engine/Ignition Section
Engine/Ignition Section The Engine Section consists of five wires for connections to oil pressure and coolant temperature sending units for the gauges, connections to the coil or ignition system, and a connection for an electric choke on a carburetor. Locations of all of these components will vary from vehicle to vehicle so no specific routing instructions can be given.
Page 32: Ballast Bypass
 HEI coils, internally resisted coils, and most aftermarket ignition boxes do not require the use of a ballast resistor. The #920 wire will connect directly to the + side of the coil. See the NO Ballast Resistor Connection Diagram on page 34.
Page 33: Tachometer
Route the Black/ Yellow #970 wire to the + side of the Coil or to the output side of the Ballast resistor. The Ballast Resistor Connection Diagram the next page has been created to aid in this connection. The other end of this #970 wire will route to the “I” terminal on the starter solenoid.
Page 35: Engine Sending Units/Switches
Engine Sending Units/Switches The engine should have two gauge sending units: coolant temp and a oil pressure. If you are using aftermarket mechanical gauges, then no connections will need to be made. You can skip to the next connection, “Electric Choke” on page 37. Sending units operate based on resistance to ground.
Page 36 If you are installing a new temp sensor, or are unsure of the temp sensor currently mounted in your engine, make sure there is no tape on the sensor threads. The tape will interfere with the ground source the sensor needs to read correctly. Liquid/tube sealant can be used.
Page 37: Oil Pressure, Choke
“Oil Pressure” Locate the 18 gauge Black/Lt.Blue wire printed [ENGINE SECTION A] << TO OIL SENDER #922 TO OIL GAUGE>> [INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION]. Do not get this confused with the Black/Blue wire for the choke function. The #922 wire will send a ground signal from the sending unit/switch through the bulkhead into the interior of the vehicle to the gauge cluster and to the aftermarket gauge connector.
Page 38 If you do not have an electric choke, this wire will not be needed and can be removed from the harness. Route this Blue #954 wire to the + terminal of the electric choke, install the appropriate terminal for your connection, and connect. Ensure the choke is properly grounded, ground wire not supplied in the Painless harness, before continuing with the installation.
Page 39: Start/Charge Section
START/CHARGE Section The Start/Charge Section consists of five wires for connections to the alternator, starter solenoid, and in line MIDI fuse (included with the kit). Locations of all of these components will vary from vehicle to vehicle so no specific routing instructions can be given.
Page 40 If the heat shrink is being used, slide it onto the #915 wire, followed by the rubber boot. A very small amount of lubricant such as WD-40 or motor oil may be applied on the inside of the rubber boot to allow the boot to slide down the wire easier.
Page 41: Charge Indicator Light
Black/Brown: gauge brown wire, printed [START/CHARGE] #914 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER, this wire can have switched ignition power from the fuse block. This wire will not be needed if you have a one wire alternator. If you have a one wire alternator, and only if you have a one wire alternator, you will need to insulate the ends of these wires and stow them in the harness, THEY ARE POWER...
Page 42 The remaining alternator connections will vary based on which alternator is being used. Choose the alternator that best represents the alternator found on your vehicle from the on the next few pages and follow the instructions provided for your particular alternator.
Page 43 You may experience engine run on. This is caused when the alternator back feeds voltage down the #914 wire after the key has been turned off. This allows the ignition system to still function causing the engine to continue running even though the key is turned off or even removed from the ignition.
Page 44 Route the two wires to the connector on the alternator and cut to length. Strip ¼” of insulation from both wires. The factory 4 pin alternator connector from a factory GM harness or a CS-130 pigtail purchased from Painless, part # 30707 (see photo), will need to be used.
Page 45 General Motors CS-130D Series Alternators The CS-130D can be spotted by the lack of an external fan behind the pulley. These alternators have an internal fan. They also have a plastic casing on the back. These alternators have an elongated oval, four pin sealed connector, seen in the photo on the next page and in the image above.
Page 46 Both diagrams accomplish the same task, using the black/brown #914 ALTERNATOR EXCITER wire to provide a switched power source and a resisted power source to the 2 wires of a CS-130D alternator pigtail/connector when a charge indicator light is NOT being used. Pick the method that easiest for you to understand.
Page 47 General Motors Externally Regulated Alternators The two remaining wires, a 14 gauge black/red wire printed #995 REGULATOR BATTERY POWER and a 16 gauge black/brown wire labeled #914 ALTERNATOR EXCITER, will connect to the regulator. Route the two wires of the Painless harness to the connection point on the regulator and cut to length.
Page 48: Ford Externally Regulated Alternator
Ford Externally Regulated Alternators The two remaining wires, a 14 gauge black/red wire printed #995 REGULATOR BATTERY POWER and a 16 gauge black/brown wire labeled #914 ALTERNATOR EXCITER, will connect to the regulator. Route the two wires of the Painless harness to the connection point on the regulator and cut to length.
Page 49: Ford Internally Regulated Alternator (3G)
Ford Internally Regulated Alternators (3G) In order to make the correct connections to a 3G ALTERNATOR, 2 connector pigtails for the alternator will be needed. These pigtails can be bought in numerous WPT-119 WPT-851 places under the Motorcraft part numbers .
Page 50 The two remaining wires, a 14 gauge black/red wire printed #995 REGULATOR BATTERY POWER and a 16 gauge black/brown wire labeled #914 ALTERNATOR EXCITER, will connect to the pigatils on the back of the alternator. Connect the two alternator pigtails to the alternator. Route the black/brown #914 wire and the black/red #915 wire to the 2 wires coming from the 3 wire connector pigtail, and cut to length and strip ¼”...
Page 51: Mopar Externally Regulated Alternator
MOPAR Externally Regulated Alternators There are two types of external regulators found on these charging systems: mechanical and electrical. The mechanical regulators, pre-1970, will have two posts marked “IGN” and “FLD”. One post will exit one side of the regulator, while the other post will exit the other side.
Page 52: Midi Fuse
14 gauge wire(s) which run from the regulator to the field terminal(s) on the alternator will need to be provided by the installer to finish the connections. These wires are not in the Painless harness. Connect the “FLD” terminal on the regulator to the “FLD” terminal on the alternator.
Page 53 Once the ring terminals are installed onto both studs of the fuse holder the fuse can be installed and everything can be tightened down with the two retaining nuts provided with the fuse holder. Once everything is tightened, the cover can be reinstalled. Depending on how your crimp flares the ring terminal, the cover may or may not need slight trimming in order to snap into place.
Page 54: Starter
“Starter” The connections to the starter will vary depending on your ignition system, the location of a neutral safety/clutch switch, and your connection point on the battery power source for the MIDI fuse. You will find 2 wires grouped together for starter connections. These wires are: Black/Purple: 12 gauge wire, printed #919 STARTER SOLENOID "S"...
Page 55 Wiring to the Solenoid Use the following instructions and diagrams if you are wiring directly to the starter solenoid. This applies to GM starters with the solenoid on the starter and remote mounted solenoids like those found on ford vehicles. Locate heat shrink and ring terminals from the parts kit that best fit the posts found on the starter solenoid, crimp and connect.
Page 56 Mopar Starter Relay Use the following instructions and diagrams if you are wiring in a Mopar starter relay. Please be aware that if a ballast resistor is being used, you will need a relay with a ballast terminal. These relays can be found using NAPA part # SR14 and can be used in installs that do or do not require a ballast resistor.
Page 57 The terminal labeled “G”, relays found on manual transmission applications will not have this terminal as they ground through the mounting, is intended to provide ground for the relay in order for it to activate. On factory vehicles this ground was provided by the reverse/neutral safety switch, as seen in the diagram on the previous page.
Page 58 NOTES...
Page 59 For Installing: Part # 10309 8 Circuit Nostalgia Harness Painless Performance Products recommends you, the installer, read this installation manual from front to back before installing this harness. Due to the variables in modifications that can be done to vehicles, reading this manual will give you considerable insight on the proper installation of this harness.
Page 60 If you have any questions concerning the installation of this harness, feel free to call Painless Performance Products' tech line at 1-800-423-9696. Calls are answered from 8am to 5pm central time, Monday thru Thursday, 8am to 4:30pm, Friday, except holidays.
Page 61 CAUTION: BEFORE THE REMOVAL OF YOUR ORIGINAL HARNESS AND/OR THE INSTALL OF YOUR NEW PAINLESS HARNESS, DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM YOUR VEHICLE BY REMOVING THE NEGATIVE OR POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE FROM THE BATTERY.THE BATTERY IS NOT TO BE CONNECTED UNTIL THE PAINLESS HARNESS HAS BEEN INSTALLED AND TESTED.
Page 62 TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE # SECTION DIMMER SWITCH HEADLIGHT SWITCH GM Headlight Switch Ford Headlight Switch Toggle/Rocker Headlight Switch TURN SIGNAL SWITCH GM / Aftermarket Column Ford Column MOPAR Column Painless 30120 Turn Switch Kit External / Clamp On Turn Signal Switch SPDT Toggle Switch Hazard Switch Horn Button...
Page 63 Schematics, Diagrams, & Photos PAGE # HEADLIGHT DIMMER SWITCH photo HEADLIGHT & DIMMER SWITCH SCHEMATIC GM HEADLIGHT SWITCHES diagrams FORD HEADLIGHT SWITCH diagram PAINLESS #80154 HEADLIGHT SWITCH diagram PAINLESS #80151 HEADLIGHT SWITCH diagram INTEGRATED & SEPARATE TURN/BRAKE LIGHTS photo GM TURN SIGNAL SWITCH PIN OUT diagram FORD TURN SIGNAL SWITCH PIN OUTS diagram TOGGLE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH diagram TOGGLE HAZARD SWITCH diagram...
Page 64: Dimmer Switch
This kit also contains door jamb switches; however, the 10309 harness you have purchased has no provisions for door jamb switches. Part numbers for individual switches will be given in each individual section such as “HEADLIGHT...
Page 65 The connection point of these wires will depend on the location of the dimmer switch. Most will have a floor mounted dimmer switch, although, those using a later model GM column may find the dimmer switch on the side of the column. For those with T-buckets or any other vehicle that doesn’t have room for a floor mounted dimmer switch, another alternative is to use a dimmer switch incorporated into a headlight switch, Painless offers this as part...
Page 66: Headlight Switch
“HEADLIGHT SWITCH” The connections of the headlight switch will send power to the headlights, front park/marker lights, rear tail lights, and to the backlighting of components such as gauges and radio. All connections needed are grouped together with section labels reading “HEADLIGHT SWITCH”.
Page 68: Gm Headlight Switch
GM Headlight Switch Use the following diagrams to connect to a GM style headlight switch. GM used this style switch from the 1960’s up through the 1980’s. There are 2 different types of these switches, commonly referred to as early and late styles.
Page 69: Ford Headlight Switch
Ford Headlight Switch Use the following diagram to connect to a Ford style headlight switch. This style switch was common on Ford vehicles used in the 1960’s and 1970’s. Use the insulated terminals found in the parts kit to make these connections. Painless Universal Headlight Switch Painless offers several universal switches, one even with hi low beam dimmer functions.
Page 70: Toggle/Rocker Headlight Switch
Toggle/Rocker Headlight Switch Some vehicles such as t-buckets and others which may have a smaller narrower dash board, may not have room or want the clutter of a bigger headlight switch. Reference the diagrams below to install a lighted or non-lighted SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) toggle or rocker switch.
Page 71 Those using a lighted toggle/rocker switch, connections are the same as a non- lighted only you will need to provide a power source to the backlight of the switch. This will generally be a tab on the back of the switch that is opposite of the terminals for the input and output(s) as seen below.
Page 72: Turn Signal Switch
“TURN SIGNAL SWITCH” The turn signal switch will provide power to each turn signal and turn signal indicator. For those using a later model or aftermarket GM style column, the turn signal switch also has a built in hazard switch. Those with a separate hazard switch, this section of the instructions will also cover that.
Page 73 The wires provided in the Painless harness for turn signal connection can be identified by the section label reading “TURN SWITCH”. These wires can be seen in the Turn Signal Schematic on page 77, they are: Black: 18 gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #953 TO HORN BUTTON (HORN ACTIVATION), this wire is a ground activation signal to the horn relay.
Page 74 Black: 18 gauge wire, printed [TURN SIGNAL SECTION] #969 HORN BUTTON GROUND SOURCE, this wire is a ground source to the horn button. This wire will provide a clean chassis ground source to the steering column. If you are using a GM or Mopar steering column, this wire will not be needed.
Page 75 Ford Columns For those with Ford columns, the connector that plugs into the connector on the column from a factory harness will be needed. When it is cut from the factory harness leave 4-6” of wire to make it easy to splice/connect it to the wires on the new Painless harness.
Page 76 The diagrams above show splicing the wires from the 10309 to an installer created pigtail from factory wiring.
Page 77 MOPAR Columns For those with Mopar columns, the connector that plugs into the connector on the column from a factory harness will be needed. When it is cut from the factory harness leave 4-6” of wire to make it easy to splice/connect it to the wires on the new Painless harness.
Page 78 If using the 30120, kit in can be installed two different ways: This method takes no modifications to the 10309 chassis harness you are installing or to the 30120 kit. This will make the flashers found on the fuse block of the 10309 nostalgia harness useless.
Page 79 This method slightly modifies the 30120 turn signal/hazard switch kit and allows you to use the hazard flasher and the #951 circuit of the 10309 Nostalgia harness. Start by following the 30120 instructions by mounting the relays. When you get to step #3 of the 30120 instructions, cut the purple wire on the 30120 kit about 4”-6”...
Page 80 External/Clamp On Column Mounted Switch There are many versions of this typical “hot rod/street rod” style switch. In most cases this type of switch will have wires coming from it in which the chassis harness will connect. Do not try to match the color of the wires on your switch to the striped colors found on the Painless harness Due to so many variations and manufacturers of this type of switch, a...
Page 81 Once installed, route this wire to the rest of the Turn Signal section Wires. Remove the 2 prong flasher from the base you modified. Replace it with a 3 prong 12v flasher, not included. Slight modification/dimpling to the 3 prong flasher housing may be necessary to clear the mounting screw of the flasher base on the fuse block.
Page 82: Horn Button
For those with a hazard switch that is not part of the turn signal switch wires will need to be added by you, the installer, for proper connection. The only wire provided in this Painless harness for these functions is the power wire from the flasher, black/brown wire #951.
Page 84: Brake Switch
#60109 & 60110), will be mounted on or near the pivot point of the brake pedal. There are two wires found in the 10309 chassis harness for proper Brake Switch connection, they will be identified will tags reading “BRAKE SWITCH”, they are: Black/Orange: 16 gauge wire, printed [BRAKE SWITCH] #917 TO BRAKE SWITCH (POWER B+), which provides power from the 15 amp STOP fuse.
Page 85: Ignition Switch
“IGNITION SWITCH” The most important connection of a wire harness, the ignition switch, will control power to the switched ignition fuses on the fuse block as well as sending a start signal to the starter to allow engine operation. The ignition switch connection consists of wires with section labels reading “IGNITION SWITCH”.
Page 86 If you are using insulated terminals to make these connections, install the terminals on the “IGNITION SWITCH” wires at this time. Using the diagram above, properly match the wires from the 10309 harness to the proper pin location, use splices provided in the parts kit to make these connections if you are using a connector pigtail.
Page 87 GM Key on the Dash Your vehicle may have one of the many different dash mounted ignition switches GM used until the early 1980’s. Most will have functions printed next to each pin on the switch to allow for identification as to where wires will connect. Below you will find diagrams showing the proper connection of a couple of these popular switches.
Page 88 Ford Key on the Dash Below you will see a diagram to a common Ford dash mounted ignition switch. This switch was used on many cars and trucks throughout the 1960’s and 1970’s. It is easily identified by a thread post that comes out of the center; position C in the drawing below.
Page 89: Instrument Panel
“INSTRUMENT PANEL” The instrument panel connections of the Painless harness will vary according to the gauge cluster or aftermarket gauges you are using. The wires for this connection will be grouped together with a section label reading “INSTRUMENT PANEL”, these wires are: Black: 16 gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL] #969 TO GAUGE GROUND, this wire provides a ground source for the gauges.
Page 90: Hard Wiring
Black/Lt. Blue: 18 gauge wire, printed [INSTRUMENT PANEL] #937 LEFT TURN INDICATOR POWER, this wire is a power activation wire for the left turn signal indicator. This wire is spliced into the wire going to the front left turn signal. It will have interrupted switched ignition power, through the turn flasher, anytime the left turn signal is activated.
Page 91 Separate harness: To facilitate wiring aftermarket gauges, Painless offers and recommends the use of Painless part # 30301 (#30302 if using an electric speedometer). This will be a universal gauge cluster harness that has all the splicing and termination pre- installed for these types of applications.
Page 92 #1) Splicing- This is when you connect multiple wires to a single wire to distribute power/ground to multiple components. In this case, splice off the #935 wire and running wires to several gauges to provide power to each gage. #2) Chaining or Jumpering- Run the #935 wire to a power post, before terminating the wire with the proper terminal, you will insert another wire into the terminal and crimp.
Page 93 Grounds will need to be supplied to the gauge lights and to any ground tab on the gauges. These grounds can come from the black wires #969 TO GAUGE GROUND and #969 GAUGE LIGHT GROUND wire and/or seeing that a good ground source is not hard to find on vehicles, the installer could run their own ground circuit for gauge connections.
Page 94 Gauge light power will be supported by the Black/White #930 wire. This wire will connect to one of the leads for the gauge light, or to the gauge light tab found on gauges with LED backlighting. To make these connections you can splice from this #930 wire to all the gauges or chain/jumper it all together.
Page 95 The last connections needing to be made will be the sending unit wires or signal wires. These will be the wires which come from the temperature sending unit, oil pressure sending unit, and fuel level sending unit. Not shown in the diagram, but also provided in the Painless chassis harness is the Black/White #923 TACHOMETER SIGNAL wire.
Page 97: Accessories
“ACCESSORIES” This Painless harness includes provisions for several accessory components which may or may not be used on your particular install. These accessories include radio, reverse switch, and wiper power. Below you will find information about each of these accessories and the wires provided in this harness to connect these accessories. Radio The radio connection on the Painless harness is set up for a universal application, meaning, the two power wire colors used by Painless reflect the colors most...
Page 98: Reverse Switch
Black/White: 18 gauge wire, printed [ACCESSORY SECTION] #930 RADIO DIM/BACKLIGHT, this wire will provide a power signal to the radio to dim the back lighting/display during low light conditions. On older radios this power source will illuminate the backlighting. The black/white #930 is tied to the other #930 wire coming from the headlight switch to the gauge lights.
Page 99 Locate the reverse switch; location will depend on your column/shifter. If you are using a factory GM column, it can be found at the base of the steering column as seen below. If you are using an aftermarket floor mounted shifter, this switch may be found on the base of the shifter.
Page 100: Wiper Power
Wiper Power The last wire of the ACCESSORY section is wire intended for windshield wipers. If you do not have a wiper system, this wire can be used to power some other accessory so long as the max amperage does not exceed 10 amps. This wire is: Black/Yellow: 16 gauge wire, printed [ACCESSORY SECTION] #905 TO WIPER POWER/ACCESSORY (IGN.
Page 101: Tail Section
“TAIL SECTION” The tail section wires are the last group to be connected. This group of wires will connect to things like right & left turn signals, tail lights, reverse lights, license plate light, fuel level sending unit and there is even a provision for an electric fuel pump. All wires found in the Tail Section can be seen in the two schematics found on pages 100 &...
Page 102: Fuel Sending Unit
At this time you will need to provide a ground wire. This harness does not provide a ground wire specifically for this component, but a ground can be easily connected using insulated terminals from the parts kit and a length of scrap wire created during a previous connection.
Page 103 Black/Yellow- 16 gauge wire, printed #949 REAR LEFT TURN SIGNAL POWER, this wire provides power to the left turn signal. This wire will have power anytime the turn signal is in the down/left position and the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position. Vehicles with integrated turn/brake signals, this wire is also the brake light power and will also have power anytime the brake pedal is pressed and also anytime the hazard switch is activated.
Page 104: Tail Lights
If you have separate turn/ brake lights, route the brake light wire, #918 to the closest brake light as well. On housings/assemblies with a dual filament bulb this will be the brighter filament. If your housing requires a ground source, ground wires will also need to be created at this time.
Page 105 If your install requires connecting reverse lights, a splice or jumpering from one reverse light to the other will have to be done by you, the installer. If your vehicle does not have reverse lights, tape it up into the harness, this wire will not be used.
Page 108: Testing The System
TESTING THE SYSTEM Use a small (10 amp or less) battery charger to power up the vehicle for the first time to test the circuits. If there is a problem anywhere, the battery charger's low amperage and internal circuit breaker will provide circuit protection. Make sure the Negative Battery cable is connected to the frame or engine block, and make sure there is a ground between the engine and frame.
Page 109: Wire Index
After all circuits have been checked, disconnect the battery charger and attach the vehicles negative (ground) battery cable to the battery. Once testing is complete, re-install any panels, lens, or other parts that were removed during the harness installation. You are now finished installing this Painless Harness, congratulations! WIRE INDEX ...
Page 110 START/CHARGE SECTION Color Gauge Wire Print Origin Black/Red #915 TO ALT. OUTPUT Rolled Wire SECTION LABEL Black/Red #916 TO BATTERY SOURCE Fuse Block Black/Red #995 REGULATOR BATTERY POWER Fuse Block Black/Brown #914 TO ALTERNATOR REGULATOR EXCITER Fuse Block Black/Purple STARTER "S" TERMINAL #919 IGN. SWITCH START Ignition Switch DIMMER SWITCH SECTION Color...
Page 111 IGNITION SWITCH SECTION Color Gauge Wire Print Origin Black/Red #934 TO IGNITION SWITCH POWER B+ Fuse Block Black/Red #934 TO IGNITION SWITCH POWER B+ Fuse Block Black/Orange #933 TO IGNITION SWITCH "IGN" TERMINAL Fuse Block Black/Brown #932 TO IGNITION SWITCH ACCESSORY TERMINAL Fuse Block Black/Pink #931 TO IGNITION SWITCH (COIL)

Painless Performance 10309 Instructions Manual

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