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Fusion3 Design F400 User Manual

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F400 USER MANUAL
Revision 4
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7/26/16
1

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Summary of Contents for Fusion3 Design F400

  • Page 1 F400 USER MANUAL Revision 4 7/26/16...

  • Page 2: Introduction

    This manual will introduce you to your F400 and help you get the most out of the equipment. We realize this is a long document and not everyone is going to read it. So if you want to get printing quickly please see the QuickStart Guide that shipped with your printer.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Do Not Operate Equipment Unattended ..................... 5 Hot Components are Present During Operation ..................5 Electrical Shock Hazard ..........................5 Setting Up Your F400 ............................. 6 Please Retain All Packaging .......................... 6 Lifting, Carrying, and Transporting ....................... 6 Finding a Suitable Surface ..........................6 What is a Suitable Ambient Environment? ....................
  • Page 4 Running a Print Job ............................ 41 Leveling the Print Bed ..........................50 Loading Filament ............................55 Unloading Filament ............................ 60 Cleaning the Print Bed ..........................60 Preparing the Print Bed ..........................61 Moving Axes by Hand ..........................62 Changing Filament Mid-Print ........................62 9.10 Pausing &...

  • Page 5: Warnings And Disclaimers

    3D printing is a highly complex activity that may not work correctly at any time. To minimize the risk to your equipment, facility, and personnel, we ask that you do not operate your F400 unless someone is present to monitor the equipment.

  • Page 6: Setting Up Your F400

     Will resist shaking and vibration during the printer’s operation  The rear face of your F400 must be at least 2 inches from any wall or obstruction, to allow adequate ventilation.  The right face needs sufficient clearance for the power cord and for the operator to easily reach the power switch.

  • Page 7: Power

    Please use the included power cord to connect your F400 to a 3 prong outlet. Due to the high power draw, please be mindful that you do not overload any power strips/surge protectors you use.

  • Page 8: Hardware Information

    4 Hardware Information 4.1 Front View 1. Print volume 2. Main door lift point 3. Filament bay 4. Filament bay door lift point 5. Control panel...

  • Page 9: Right Side

    4.2 Right Side 1. Electronics bay service door 2. Lift point (left side is identical) 3. Power plug and switch 4. Ethernet jack...

  • Page 10: Back

    4.3 Back 1. Print volume exhaust fan 2. Electronics bay exhaust fan...

  • Page 11: Filament Bay Detail

    4.4 Filament Bay Detail 1. Extruder cold end (aka extruder) 2. Left filament spool track 3. Filament spool holder 4. Filament spool (1kg) 5. Right filament spool track...

  • Page 12: Extruder Cold End Detail

    4.5 Extruder Cold End Detail 1. Spring grabber 2. Filament inlet tube 3. Filament exit tube (aka filament feed tube) 4. Idler bar (in closed position) 5. Hand feed wheel User touch points are orange on the extruder. 4.5.1 To Open the Idler Bar...
  • Page 13 Pull up and back (towards yourself) to disengage the springs from the idler bar. Once the springs are disengaged you can easily open the idler bar to expose the feed gear. 1. Feed gear 2. Idler bar (in open position)

  • Page 14: Print Volume Overview

    4.6 Print Volume Overview 1. X/Y motor 2. X axis (left to right) 3. Y axis (front to back) 4. Exhaust fan 5. Print bed and Z axis...

  • Page 15: Print Head Assembly Detail

    4.7 Print Head Assembly Detail 1. Cooling blower (runs intermittently) 2. Filament feed tube 3. Wiring cable chain 4. X endstop switch (on the back)
  • Page 16 1. Print head (this gets hot) 2. 30mm fan (runs constantly) 3. IR bed probe...

  • Page 17: Control Panel Information

    5 Control Panel Information The control panel is a full color resistive-type touchscreen that gives you full control over your F400. It also contains a microSD card reader and a hard “stop/reset” button. 1. Touchscreen interface (see below for more detail) 2.
  • Page 18 1. Message bar 2. Bed heater control column 3. Print head control column 4. Current temperature row 5. Temperature control rows “Active” = setpoint; the temperature the component is trying to reach b. “Standby” is not used Touch the active temperature cell to change the setpoint of the heaters (see below) 6.

  • Page 19: Setting A Temperature

    5.2 Setting a Temperature 5.3 Macro Submenu The macro submenu lists short scripts call macros that do different tasks. Press the red “X” to close the menu after selecting your macro.

  • Page 20: Print Tab

    1. Disable Heaters: Shuts off the print head, print bed, and blower if they are running. 2. Disable Motors: De-powers the stepper motors so that components can be moved by hand. 3. Load Filament: Script that will load filament into the print head. 4.

  • Page 21: Web Interface Information

    6 Web Interface Information If connected to your local network, your F400 will set up a web page that allows you to remotely manage the machine. For the most part it duplicates the controls found on the touchscreen, and provides some additional information.

  • Page 22: Web Interface Description

    3. Once the printer reports a valid IP address, type that IP address into your computer’s browser. The web page should load. Web Interface Description Much like the Control Panel, the web interfaces is divided into a series of tabs or screens that focus on different aspects of operating the printer.
  • Page 23 1. Temperature controls: Gives a readout of the current print head and bed temperatures, allows you to set the temperatures manually, and also shows a chart with temperature history. 2. Tab selection box: Toggle between the various tabs with this section 3.

  • Page 24: Changing The Web Interface Configuration

    If you have multiple F400s on your network, you will need to assign each one a unique name to prevent conflicts. To change the website name, locate the line in config.g that begins with “M550 PFusion3 F400”. The characters after the “P” are the name of your printer and will also be used as the web address for the web interface.
  • Page 25 6.3.3 Printer MAC Address If you have multiple F400s on your network you will need to compare their MAC addresses to ensure they are not the same. If you need to change it, you can do so on the line that reads “M540 …”. 6.3.4 Assigning a Static IP Address If you need to assign the printer a static IP and/or adjust other networking settings, you can do so on the M552,...

  • Page 26: Software Information (Aka Working With Simplify3D)

    7 Software Information (AKA Working with Simplify3D) A large part of getting great results from your printer is good setup on the software (Simplify3D) side. A comprehensive manual on Simplify3D would be a book by itself, so our goal here is to: ...

  • Page 27: Processes & Profiles

    Models List: Shows a list of all models currently on the build plate. You can import more than 1 model at once to print them all simultaneously. “Center & Arrange” button: Click this to automatically arrange the parts on the build plate so that they don’t overlap.
  • Page 28 For your F400, we’ve built a separate process for each material. The base settings in each process are set up to work for most prints. So when you’re getting started, you should just need to select the right material profile and click “Prepare to Print”.
  • Page 29 7.3.2 Selecting a Profile Ensure the material preset you select matches the material you have loaded into your F400! 7.3.3 Making Changes to Profiles You can make non-permanent and permanent changes to Profiles. If you make a non-permanent change to a Profile (for example, turning support off), you will see the word “modified”...
  • Page 30 If you wish to save your changes as a new profile (recommended), you can click “Save as New” instead. This will prompt you to name the new profile and will add a new entry to the drop-down list. 7.3.4 Commonly Adjusted Parameters Most of our profiles do not have different quality levels specified.

  • Page 31: Simplify3D Build Estimates

    Speed Print speed is adjusted on the “Other” tab. You should only adjust the “Default printing speed”; please leave other values as-is. Remember that printing faster will result in somewhat lower output quality, and depending on your part may not result in much time savings. 6000 mm/min is 100mm/s. 7.4 Simplify3D Build Estimates When you slice your part, as part of the preview Simplify will give you an estimate of print time, material length consumed, and material weight consumed.

  • Page 32: Support Structures

    7.5 Support Structures Your F400 prints breakaway support structures out of the same material that the part is made out of. Using this technique, you can make complex shapes without the need for soluble support or a second print head (which adds complexity and cost).
  • Page 33 7.5.2 When Should I Change These Values?  If you are using tall layer heights (0.3mm or larger) you may want to set the Upper/lower separation to 0 layers. This will result in a strong bond but better surface finish. ...
  • Page 34 The Support Generation box will pop up. This box has 3 main sections:...
  • Page 35  Automatic placement; these controls are duplicates of what’s on the Support tab. Click “generate automatic supports” to see a preview of where Simplify thinks support is needed.  Manual placement; Allows you to manually add or remove support by using your mouse. ...

  • Page 36: Working With .Factory Files

    Thanks to its enclosure and high temperature heated bed, the F400 is relatively immune from this problem. However it can still occur with large parts out of high temperature materials such as ABS, Acrylic, PC, etc.
  • Page 37 If you see cracking in the part, bump the head temperature up 5 to 10 C. Do not exceed 305 C on the head. You can also try printing slower and make sure the cooling blower is not running. 7.7.3 Model Issues There are many issues that can be present in the STL files themselves that can cause problems with your prints.
  • Page 38 Here you can see what should be a normal top layer is being treated as a bridge. Fortunately this is a simple fix: by offsetting the part in Z by a very small amount, Simplify3D will generate the correct toolpath. 7.7.6 Other ...
  • Page 39  Mirroring mesh: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5kPGHaBy3c  Using the cross-section tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rog5coZPOYU...

  • Page 40: Sd Card Information

    WARNING: DO NOT ERASE OR ALTER any of the files on your SD card outside of the “gcodes” folder. Doing so will cause your printer to malfunction. Your SD card is the “hard drive” of your F400. While it is removable, the card must be installed in the printer in order for it to operate.

  • Page 41: Basic Tasks

    9.1 Opening & Closing the Doors The main door and filament door on your F400 have high-friction hinges to help the doors stay open on their own. When opening the doors, take care not to open them too far, as this can cause them to fall backwards.
  • Page 42 9.2.1 Software: Preparing Your File The first step is to design your file in a CAD program of your choice. Any program that can save a .STL file format is fine to use. Once you save your model as a .STL file, you import that into Simplify3D using the “Import” button in the models section of the interface.
  • Page 43 Next, add a Process and make sure the profile you’ve selected matches the material you have loaded, or will load, into your printer. Now is also the time to make any changes to the settings if you need to. Next, click the “Prepare to Print” button. Simplify3D will slice your model and give you a preview of the toolpath (how it’s going to build the part).
  • Page 44 Simplify3D also gives you a build time estimate and material usage estimate in the top left corner. Remember to multiply the time by 1.4 for a more accurate estimate. If you need to make any changes to the Process settings, you can click “Exit Preview Mode” to go back and make changes, and then re-slice the model.
  • Page 45 Once you are happy with the preview, click “Save Toolpath to Disk” to save the .GCODE file. NOTE: Do not use the “Begin Printing over USB” button. Your F400 cannot be connected to a computer over USB so this button will not work.
  • Page 46 If your F400 is on your local network, you can upload this file through the web interface. Transfer via “Sneakernet” Make sure your F400 is not currently running a print. Remove the SD card from the control panel and carry it back to your computer.
  • Page 47 A dialog box will open. Navigate to where you saved your .GCODE file on your hard drive and select it. Note: You can upload multiple .GCODE files at once if you want. The upload progress box will appear. Before printing your file make sure you have completed the Hardware prep!
  • Page 48 9.2.2 Hardware: Preparing Your Printer Clean the bed: If there is residue (priming skirt or old gluestick) on the bed from a previous print, clean it off as described in section 9.6. Prep the bed: Apply fresh gluestick to the bed as described in section 9.7. Remember some materials (for example ABS) get slightly different treatment.
  • Page 49 2) Via the Control Panel Click on the “Print” tab, then click on the SD card icon. A list of all the gcode files on the card will pop up. Locate the file you want to print and click it. If you have a lot of files on the card, you may need to scroll through the list with the “<”...

  • Page 50: Leveling The Print Bed

    System Description Your F400 has 2 bed leveling systems: a manual leveling system and a sensor to detect the level of the bed and compensate for it during a print. While getting the bed exactly level is not critical to printing on your F400, you will get best results if the bed is level.
  • Page 51 Your bed surface has 5 squares of black material. The infra-red sensor uses these locations to check the bed level. Unless you are printing a part that’s large enough to overlap these areas, you should refrain from putting gluestick over the squares since this will impact the reading the IR sensor gets. Note: this only applies to the corner squares, NOT the center one.
  • Page 52 NOTE: Bright direct sunlight can impact the bed probe response during leveling. If you encounter a situation where the bed is not leveling correctly and your first layer height is way off, make sure no portion of the bed is in direct sunlight.
  • Page 53 Once the gap gets small use the “-0.05” button to go up in very small increments until you have just a tiny gap between the nozzle and the bed. It can help to shine a light on the wall behind the nozzle like you see in the pictures below.
  • Page 54 Now move the head to each corner of the bed (by hand) and use the thumbscrew to adjust the height of the corner until you get the same gap you had at the center of the bed.

  • Page 55: Loading Filament

    Finally, select the “Disable Motors” macro when you are done. 9.4 Loading Filament Your F400’s filament handling system is designed to accommodate a wide range of filament spool sizes from 1lb with a 0.5” center hole, all the way up to 5kg rolls.
  • Page 56 Place a hand on either side of the spool, using your fingers to hold the dowel in place. Slide the dowel into the tracks located on either side of the filament bay. Continue sliding back until you feel the dowel drop into the detents in the track. Now take the end of your filament and free it from the spool.
  • Page 57 It can help to trim the end at an angle as shown below. Feed the end of the filament into the inlet tube on the extruder. While continuing to gently push on the filament, slowly turn the orange knob until you feel the extruder “bite” into the filament and begin to pull it through.
  • Page 58 Continue to turn the wheel until you see the filament protrude into the feed tube about 0.5 inches. Now run the “Load Filament” macro. This will home the z axis (to make sure it’s out of the way), heat up the print head, and then feed the filament through the feed tube and into the print head.
  • Page 59 Once the extruder stops turning, you can reach in and remove the strand of filament it made. CAUTION: The print head will still be hot for several minutes after the “Load Filament” sequence is run. Use caution and do not come in contact with the print head.

  • Page 60: Unloading Filament

    9.5 Unloading Filament Unloading filament is simple: Simply run the “Unload Filament” macro. Your F400 will heat up the print head, feed forward a little, then reverse the filament out of the print head.

  • Page 61: Preparing The Print Bed

    Use paper towels and/or your part scraper to scrape the glue off and wipe the bed down. It doesn’t have to be perfectly clean, you just want to remove most of the glue. If you’re immediately starting another print, make sure the bed is dry before applying fresh gluestick. 9.7 Preparing the Print Bed Use the gluesticks included with your toolkit to apply an even layer of glue to the bed.

  • Page 62: Moving Axes By Hand

    IMPORTANT: Your F400 does not have the ability to detect when it is out of filament, so it will not automatically pause the print job if the current spool is exhausted. Therefore you need to perform a spool change before it runs...
  • Page 63 9.9.1 Recommended Procedure: “Hot Swap” This procedure avoids pausing the printer entirely. Locate and prep your new spool of material (trim end clean, make sure there are no tangles, etc). On the old spool, cut the filament about 6 inches in front of the extruder. Remove the old spool from the printer.
  • Page 64 Cut the end of the new spool square as well. Align the ends and press forward as it feeds into the extruder Continue to hold pressure on the new filament until you’re sure the tip is well past the feed gear in the extruder. This way if there is a retraction it will not spit the end back out.

  • Page 65: Pausing & Resuming A Print Job

    9.10 Pausing & Resuming a Print Job Your F400 allows you to pause and resume prints. This is a “hot pause”; in other words all motors and heaters remain energized and at printing temperatures. Using this functionality is not appropriate for long pauses, for example overnight.

  • Page 66: Filament

    10 Filament We have an open materials philosophy: We do not require you to buy filament from us, nor do we equip our products with DRM or other technology to control what filament is used. That said, there is a lot of poor quality filament on the market. Using this filament may produce poor results and also may damage your printer.

  • Page 67: Maintenance

    11 Maintenance 11.1 Cleaning the Print Head It’s a good idea to keep the underside of the print head relatively clear of debris and molten plastic. If plastic builds up on the nozzle or heat block, it can detach and drop into your print. Service Interval: As needed Manually heat the nozzle up to: ...

  • Page 68: Check Thermistor Hold Screw

    Note: It’s normal for the surface of the print head to become dark and coated with carbon after a while. This buildup does not pose an issue and can be left alone. 11.2 Check Thermistor Hold Screw Visually inspect the thermistor hold screw to ensure it’s in place. Service Interval: When the print head is cleaned The thermistor hold screw is what keeps the temperature sensor in the print head in place.

  • Page 69: Check Heat Break

    11.3 Check Heat Break Make sure the hot section of the print head is still firmly threaded into the cold section. Service interval: When the print head is cleaned WITH THE PRINT HEAD COLD, grasp the heater block with your fingers and gently twist it counter-clockwise. If you see it spin independently of the cold section, that means it’s come loose.

  • Page 70: Inspecting & Cleaning The Extruder

    Use your other hand to stabilize the print head and prevent it from rotating while you tighten the hot section back up. Do not over-tighten as you can bend the thin heat break section; aim for approx. 10-15 in-lbs of torque. 11.4 Inspecting &...
  • Page 71 11.4.2 Gear Lash While spinning the extruder by hand, check for lash in the gears by gently reversing the direction you’re turning the extruder. Observe the gears and make sure there isn’t a “dead spot” where one gear turns but the other stays still.
  • Page 72 Spin the gears by hand and make sure they spin freely with no binding. If there are tight spots the gears are too tight; slide the motor down just a little bit. Once the gears mesh well all the way around, firmly tighten all 3 screws. Reinstall the extruder onto the printer.
  • Page 73 If you need to adjust the springs, use the 2.5mm hex wrench from your toolkit. You will need to hold the nut still with a small flat bladed screwdriver or similar implement to adjust the preload.

  • Page 74: Check & Adjust Bearing Preload

    11.5 Check & Adjust Bearing Preload The linear motion assemblies on your F400 have adjustable preload. Periodically inspect them to ensure they are still tight on the rails for best performance. Service interval: Every 300 hours With the printer powered on and motors disabled (macro > disable motors): Grasp the wheel in your fingers as shown.

  • Page 75: Check & Adjust Drive Cable Tension

    NOTE: It’s possible to over-tighten the cams. Aim for roughly 10 in-lb of resistance when you slide the carriage while holding the wheel still. Repeat this for all 6 pairs of wheels on the linear motion assemblies. 11.6 Check & Adjust Drive Cable Tension Check the XY drive cables for sufficient tension, and make sure the X axis is 90 degrees to the Y axis.
  • Page 76 Use a light finger touch on the cables to ensure they are not slack. A wide range of tension is acceptable; as long as the cables are not actually loose they are fine. If you print a lot of high temperature materials, you may find the cables are slightly loose at room temperature. 11.6.2 Check X Axis Square The angle the X axis makes relative to the Y axis depends on the relative tension in the two drive cables.
  • Page 77 You can also measure the distance from the x axis to the front brace as shown below. It doesn’t matter exactly where you measure from, just so long as you’re consistent. Move the X axis to the back of the machine and measure the points shown below.
  • Page 78 If One Cable is Loose, or You are Adjusting the X Axis Square: You will need a 4mm hex wrench and a 10mm wrench. At the rear of the print volume there is a bracket that holds 2 idler pulleys on each Y rail. One of these pulleys is mounted in a slot.

  • Page 79: Adjusting Configuration Values

    11.7 Adjusting Configuration Values Many parameters for your printer can be changed as needed in the SD card/sys/config.g file. Unlike the F306 and other 3D printers, you do not need to reflash your firmware to update these parameters. 11.7.1 Changing the Z Probe Offset The most common parameter you may need to adjust is the probe offset.

  • Page 80: Removing & Installing A Print Head

    Lift up the front of the glass 1-2 inches and gently slide it towards you. The aluminum plate will stay in place. Slide the replacement glass under the rear clips. You may need to reach under the bed substrate and hold the clips up to get the glass underneath them.
  • Page 81  If possible unload the filament from the printer. If you are attempting to recover from a jam, you won’t be able to unload the filament; that’s ok.  Print head should be COLD  Printer should be POWERED OFF 11.9.1 Removal Use the 2.5mm hex wrench to remove the 2 M3 screws shown below Tug the tube retention plate straight up until it hits the blower mount on the left...
  • Page 82 Now slide the aluminum clamp plate straight forward and remove it. Clip the zip tie holding the 3 electrical connectors together. Disconnect the 4 pin connector and the 2 pin with the green and white wires.
  • Page 83 Clip the zip tie holding the print head wires to the print head assembly. Now you can gently wiggle the print head free of the assembly...
  • Page 84 NOTE: You should check your probe offset after installing the print head. Even if you have re-installed your current head, the probe offset may need to change slightly. See section 11.7.1. 11.9.2 Installing IMPORTANT: Make sure the PTFE liner is present in the top of the print head! When the head is removed these can fall out and sometimes people don’t notice.
  • Page 85 Press the print head into the pocket on the underside of the part. It should be a light press fit so you can press it in and then it will stay put by itself. Orient the print head so the flat face of the heater block faces forward and the wires exit on the right side.
  • Page 86 Slide the clamp plate in. Note that the PEM nuts go on the bottom face. Push the tube retention plate down into position (make sure the feed tube nut is still in the pocket) and begin to thread the screws into the clamp plate. Tighten the screws in an alternating pattern to make sure the print head is seated squarely.

  • Page 87: Removing & Installing The Extruder

    11.10 Removing & Installing the Extruder We recommend unloading filament before removing the extruder. Printer must be powered off. 11.10.1 Removal Use the 2.5mm wrench from your toolkit to remove the 2 M3 screws that hold the feed tube clamp in place. Lift the feed tube clamp straight up.
  • Page 88 Remove the electrical connector from the motor. DO NOT tug on this connector by the wires as you may break them. Grasp the top and bottom of the connector body (there are some small flanges you can grab with your fingernail) and remove it from the motor.
  • Page 89 11.10.2 Installation Install the 3 M5 screws that hold the extruder onto the standoffs. Place the feed tube into the tube clamp. It’s very important that the flats on the nuts are UP and DOWN. If the nuts are not oriented correctly the feed tube won’t line up with the filament path and the printer will not operate correctly.

  • Page 90: Accessing The Electronics Bay

    11.11 Accessing the Electronics Bay WARNING: The electronics bay contains some high voltage components. Do not open the bay until you have unplugged your printer and waited 10 minutes for the power supply to fully discharge. 11.11.1 Removing the Door Use the 3mm hex key to remove the 3 screws shown below.
  • Page 91 Now you have access to the electronics bay. 11.11.2 Installing the Door Start with the door positioned as shown. Rotate and slide it into position. Make sure you:...
  • Page 92  Do not pinch any wires between the door and the printer as you install it  Ensure the tabs on the bottom edge are fully seated in their slots. The outside of the door will be flush with the outside of the printer when it’s positioned correctly. Reinstall the 3 screws.

  • Page 93: Updating Your Firmware

    Periodically we may provide firmware updates for your printer. These updates will improve performance or add additional functionality to your F400. We will provide a .zip file containing the firmware binary and the tools to write it to the board. If needed, we’ll also provide updated SD card files.
  • Page 94 Now you can insert the USB cable. The wide side of the connector faces up.
  • Page 95 Now connect the other end of the USB cable to your computer. Your computer may take a few minutes to install some drivers. There are two small edge-mounted buttons on the front edge of the board. They are marked “RESET” and “ERASE”.
  • Page 96 If this is the first time you’ve connected your computer to the board, it’s likely it will now install additional drivers. These buttons can be hard to press. If you have trouble, you can use something non-conductive to press them. DO NOT USE something like a screwdriver or other metallic object.
  • Page 97 Disconnect the USB cable from the board. Reinstall the SD card reader wire. Make sure it’s fully seated. Reinstall the service door. 11.12.4 Update SD Card (if applicable) Some firmware updates will not require changes to the files on your SD card, and some will. We’ll provide instructions for each specific update covering what to do here.

  • Page 98: Troubleshooting

    First layer height refers to the height of the nozzle above the print bed when printing the first layer of your part. This is important because an incorrect first layer height can result in a failed print later. Your F400, thanks to its auto bed leveling system, takes most of the guesswork out of this, but it’s still possible that adjustment will be...
  • Page 99 In less extreme cases you will see excess plastic bulging up in rows as shown on the right side of the graphic. Usually it’s ok to let the print continue if you see something like the picture in the graphic; your part will remain stuck to the bed just fine.
  • Page 100 On the “gcode” tab, you can adjust each material’s offset individually.  A negative number will make the first layer closer to the bed.  A positive number will make the first layer further away.  Adjust this in 0.05 increments. ...

  • Page 101: Getting Help

    13 Getting Help Two ways to contact Fusion3 Customer Support:  support@fusion3design.com  877-452-0010 extension 2 Our support line is staffed M-F 8am to 5pm Eastern time. Within these hours, our goal is to respond to issues within an hour. If you run into something that isn’t covered in this manual, please contact us first.

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