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Sopwith Pup 40” Page 1 Assemble the Cowling Sopwith Pup Construct front cowl ring by wrapping C1’s with 1/32” Thank you for purchasing the 1/8 scale Sopwith Pup thick plywood. The grain in the plywood should be model for electric flight. parallel to the short axis. To reduce weight, the inner C1 THE MODEL may be shaved or sanded down after cowl construction is finished. Align the inside of the parts for proper A semi scale adaptation of the Sopwith Pup, this model is designed to be easy to build and exciting to fly. construction. Glue two C2s in three pairs and laminate together. Then glue them to the previously assembled C1s and plywood. Sand the C2 balsa to shape. Sopwith Pup Finished Model Cowl Assembly Detail Model Specifications The cowl should now be sealed, sanded and primed until no wood grain is left showing. Baby (Talcum) powder in Scale: 1/8 clear dope makes an excellent balsa sealer. Talcum Channels: R/E/A/T powder mixed in white glue makes excellent filler for Wingspan: 40ʺ gaps or gouges. Sand down filler after it has dried. Wing Area: 550 sq in Weight: 30 oz ready to fly WINGS Power System: AXI 2217/20 Prop: ...
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Sopwith Pup 40” Page 5 WHEELS Wheel Assembly Detail Gluing the ply sides on the 3/8” balsa core makes the basis The inside cones may now be attached to the wheels. The for the wheels. Use the brass hub for alignment. Epoxy the outside cones may be attached at this point if wheel hubs in place and add a sufficient amount of epoxy collars are to be used. Alternatively, after installing the around the base of the hub to reinforce the connection of wheels on the landing gear, a washer may be soldered to the hub to the ply. Plywood reinforcing hubs are provided hold the wheel in place and then the cone is attached. This that are to slip over the brass tubing as shown. Next, CA method makes a very nice scale appearance. glue the neoprene cording together to from a “tire”. Use thin CA sparingly as the CA bonds very aggressively to INSTALLING THE RADIO CONTROL GEAR the rubber. Press the CA wetted ends together for an instant bond. The best way to align the ends is to glue Servo Bay them while they are in place on the wheel. Then attach the Get the R/C gear fitted at this stage, and also the motor. tires to the wheels and CA in place. A thin bead of CA around the rim makes for a secure tire. Aileron Servos Aileron servos are mounted in wing and attached with short threaded rods to the ailerons. Use a “Y” wiring harness connector to wire the servos to a single radio connection. Alternatively, two RC channels can be used when mixed electronically. If differential aileron throws are desired, rotate each servo horn forward about 20 degrees, while maintaining the neutral position of the aileron. This should counter any adverse aileron yaw. Wheel Construction Detail Paper cones are cut out. Use a ball point pen to score each line on the back to make an impression of “spokes” It is helpful to do this operation on a paper tablet so that the ...
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Sopwith Pup 40” Page 6 horizontal stabilizer. Glue the horizontal stab/elevator http://www.byrdaviationbooks.com/ assembly onto the fuselage. If using pushrods, slip the Battery hatch elevator control horn onto the wire pushrod end and, with Fashion a battery hatch from 1/32” plywood the servo and the elevator centered, glue the horn into the slot. Then glue the vertical stabilizer and rudder assembly Balancing The Model into the slot in the horizontal stabilizer. In a similar Balance the model at the point shown. It is best to position fashion as the elevator, slip the rudder control horn onto the battery to do this operation. the wire pushrod end and, with the servo and the rudder FLYING centered, glue the rudder control horn into the slot. Chris Goodchild’s original maiden report using previous versionʹs power system: “Just a short note for now to let you know that this evening there was a Sopwith Pup on dusk patrol over our local school playing field! YES SHE HAS FLOWN!!!!!! I flew her myself, on my own so unfortunately no flying pics at the moment but she flew beautifully! This is the first model I have built where I have not had to dial in ANY clicks of trim. I had 3 flights in total using 2 950mah KAN packs and felt very comfortable with her by the end. I took some final photos at the field ʹjust in caseʹ and then went through my final checklist before deciding to try a quick test hop to get the feel of things. So, I pointed her Pull‐Pull Elevator Set Up into the very gently breeze and gradually pushed the throttle forward whilst holding in some up elevator to Fitting the Rigging Wires keep the tail down. She picked up speed quite quickly Use strong thread or Kevlar™ fishing line or elastic and only needed a touch of rudder to correct her line ...
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Sopwith Pup 40” Page 7 angle and remains utterly controllable. I was expecting a Let the model gain altitude slowly off the runway. fairly rapid decent but not at all, great! Applying too much up elevator at slow speeds risks a I decided to try a couple of practice approaches and stall. Make your turns gently as tight turns risk tip eventually settled her down on the ground again with just stalling in any model. Don’t expect the elevator to make a gentle nose over, which I began to feel I could control the model climb. Think of the elevator as a device to with more elevator in the final touchdown stages. I change the attitude of the model. The wing and airspeed reckoned I was about 4‐5 min’s into the pack which ultimately make the model climb. Often down elevator seemed to have plenty left so I did another take off and a applied at stalling can avoid a major crash. The most few more circuits before feeling the edge had gone from important details for proper flight operations are: the battery and bringing her back down to change to pack 2. This landing did end in a nose over again but was even 1) CG location. Tail heavy models never fly well or at gentler and very nearly didnʹt go over at all. all. 2) Down and right thrust Onto pack 2. Take off was easy again and I was really 3) Straight and non warped wings getting the feel of things now. I was even brave enough to try my first loop with her so up to a safe height and put her into a slight dive to pick up some speed when all of a sudden the battery hatch decided to part company and flutter down to the ground. Never mind, lets try that again, back around, back into a shallow dive and over she goes, beautiful and with plenty of power in reserve. I flew around for maybe 8 minutes or so (I forgot to take my ...
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