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CHECK THE INSTALLATION !
Once installed, light the fire, demonstrate it to the householder and
check that:
1)
It burns controllably and does not emit fumes to the room
2)
The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is
completely airtight, unobstructed and able to be swept.
3)
The entire construction is of durable fireproof materials.
4)
The flue presents a draught in use of at least 12Pa
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE
Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only
experience will show which are the best settings for you.
LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the
flueways and chimney are completely clear. Empty the ashes.
above ('airwash control(2)). Move the slides to the right for highest
output, to the left for 'low'. They can get very hot, so move them
only with the handle supplied.
Our tests indicate highest efficiency on wood with the primary (1)
about ¼ open and the airwash (2) barely open. Anthracite works
best with the airwash closed and the primary 1/3 open. But the
best settings for you will depend on your fuel, air supply and flue
draught and can only be found from experience.
EMPTYING ASHES use the door handle tool to open the door. Stir
the fire with a poker. Use the angled ashpan tool to lift out the
ashpan. Remember to let ash cool before disposing in plastic
sacks or dustbins. There is no need to empty every last speck, but
ash from mineral fuels should never be allowed to build up so that
it comes into contact with the underside of the grate.
EXTENDED BURNING Allow the fire to burn down to a low, hot
firebed. Empty the ash and fully fill with hard fuel such as
anthracite (c30mm size is best). Set the air control to 'low' and
your stove can burn for up to ten hours without attention.
KEEPING THE WINDOW CLEAN Simply operating the stove for a
few minutes at high output will often burn-off any deposits left by
tarry or wet fuels. Severe stains can be removed when cold with a
domestic bleach cleaner. The window is not glass but a
transparent ceramic, it may develop tiny hairline cracks, these are
harmless, and a characteristic of the toughest and most heat-
resistant material known. Reduce the risk of staining by using only
very dry fuel and keeping the airwash control slightly open.
OPENING THE DOOR This stove is designed to be operated only
with the door closed. Open the door very slowly to minimise fume
emission and prevent hot fuel falling out. Remember that the
whole stove becomes extremely hot. Pull the door handle off when
not being used to prevent it overheating.
SUMMER SHUT DOWN: Before a long period of non-use, empty
fuel and ash, remove the throat plate and leave all the air controls
open to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
FUELS
There is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly recommend that you try a
selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best. Do
avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they can burn far to violently.
Place two or three firelighters
close together, or screwed-up
paper covered with dry sticks, at
the back of the grate and light
them. When they are burning well
gently fill the fire with dry fuel,
close the door and set the air
control slides to the 'high' (right)
position. When the fire is burning
well, move the controls to the
lowest practical setting.
FILLING: Don't fill above the
level shown in the diagram.
CONTROL How fast the fire
burns depends on how much air
reaches the fuel. The stove has
two air controls, one below the
window ('primary'(1)) and one
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain
areas special rules apply to reduce
smoke nuisance. Check with your
local authority.
WOOD only emits as much carbon
to the atmosphere as the tree took in when growing, so wood is
considered the 'carbon neutral' fuel. When wood is cut down its
cells are full of water. Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes
heat in making steam and produces flammable, acidic tars which
will cling to, and rapidly damage, your stove and chimney. Split
logs will typically take two years to become reasonably dry, round
logs very much longer. Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when
tapped and bark falling away are all signs that a log may be ready
for use. The fine, white residue produced when wood burns is not
ash, but the remains of cell walls which can burn if kept hot
enough, so don't de-ash the fire until absolutely necessary when
using wood.
For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
Split logs lengthways for drying
• Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
• Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 20% moisture)
• Fill the stove criss-cross, so air can circulate between logs.
• Fill 'little and often'
• Always have the airwash control (2) at least a little open.
• When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use only very
small, thin, dry, sticks.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't expect
softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as hardwood logs.
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry. BNM peat briquettes are
approved for use in Smokeless Zones in the RoI.
LIGNITE (not smokeless) is a natural mineral, between peat and
coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash
HOUSECOAL or BITUMINOUS COAL (not smokeless) makes
lots of tarry smoke and large volumes of flammable gas which
make it difficult to control and risk explosions. Despite its low cost,
it rarely represents value for money. Don't use housecoal.
ANTHRACITE (Smokeless) is a natural hard, shiny form of coal.
Slow to light, it can burn for very long periods with great heat.
Despite its high price-per-bag it generally works out to be one of
the cheapest of all fuels. Use the 'small nuts' size.
COKE (Smokeless) is coal from which the smoke has been
removed. Sometimes difficult to light, it burns very cleanly.
BRIQUETTES Are compressed blocks of fuel, generally able to
burn for long periods and remarkable for their consistency.
'Homefire' and 'Phurnacite' are smokeless types while other
brands are made from lignite, peat or housecoal.
PETROLEUM COKE sold as 'Petcoke', 'Longbeach' and other
names, is made from oil, should not be used, it will rapidly degrade
interior parts.
HOUSEHOLD WASTES Some plastics give off toxic fumes when
burned and remember that batteries and aerosols explode! The
stove is not an incinerator, so only ever use the recommended
fuels and NEVER use liquid fuels in any form.
PROBLEMS?
Problems like those listed here are usually due to some difficulty
with the installation, chimney or fuels, so please check back
through this leaflet carefully. If necessary seek specialist advice.
SMOKE FROM THE CHIMNEY It is quite normal for a little smoke
to be emitted from the chimney when the fire is cold. Use only
VERY dry wood or smokeless fuels.
DAMAGED LINERS The stove gets very, very hot inside, it is
quite usual for the replaceable liners to crack or craze. They need
only be replaced when they have almost completely disintegrated.
Help them last longer by using only very dry fuel.
POOR HEAT OUTPUT: A stove can heat a typical room of about
12m³ volume for each kW of output, so a 5kW model can heat up
to (12 x 5) 63m³, a room of about 5m square. The actual size
depends on the insulation and air-change ratio of the room. To
attempt to heat a larger room will result in excessive fuel
consumption and damaging overheating.
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