Roof Prep; Floor Prep - EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU Assembly Instructions Manual

rub over with fine abrasive paper to round the edges slightly.
That completes the sides for now.

ROOF PREP

You will notice your roof has a curve due to the molding process this is useful when fitted as it ensures
the roof is a tight fit in the centre of your coach.
9) Clean off any burrs of plastic then put a strip of masking tape down the centre of the roof onto
which you can mark the positions of roof vents etc. from the drawing provided (Drawing 2, p16). Notice
that one end of each roof is cut square whilst the other is shaped. The shaped end is the non-cab
end (rear) and all measurements are taken from that end at the longest point, i.e. along the centerline.
10) Drill 2.8mm dia. mounting holes for the roof vents at the locations
marked and a 1.3mm hole for the water filler casting (DMCL only).
11) Remove a small amount of material (about 5mm in length) from the
inner edge of the underside of both side locating channels at the shaped end
of each roof (see right). This allows the roof to sit down over the end molding.
DO NOT REMOVE THE OUTER PART OF THE CHANNEL AS THIS FORMS
THE ROOF GUTTER. See photo: Inner roof channel mod (Cl. 105 - model).
Although you can fit the roof details now, leaving them until later can make the blending of the roof
section to the cab roof easier.

FLOOR PREP

12) If the floor has not already been marked, the FRONT of the DMCL floor should be identified
as that with the bogie pivot CLOSEST to the end of the floor molding. The power car does not need
marking because the motor cut-out in the floor makes orientation obvious.
13) Check the floor molding for flatness - if it appears too distorted (some curvature is quite
normal) gently bend it in the reverse direction to correct.
14) The floor moldings will need to be reduced in width to obtain the best fit inside the body.
Initially, reduce the floor width by about 2 mm (1mm each side) by carefully shaving off small amounts
evenly from each side to keep the floor central to the body. This is best done using a scraping action
with a sharp blade. This operation may need to be repeated when the body and underframe are
assembled for the first time.
15) Locate the two aluminium bogie mounting turnings and prepare them by scoring their upper
surface (the spigot faces downward when in use see right). Treat the mounting areas likewise. Use a
strong adhesive fix the two round turned bogie mounts in the holes in the floor.
NOTE: See Modification To Floor on page 21 for details of a small modification necessary to
allow the motor bogie to have full movement.
16) (Optional, but strongly recommended) To make a much stronger
job of fixing the bogie pivots in place, you might consider a 'belt and
braces' approach by adding a mechanical fixing to the mounting. Good
results have been achieved by drilling two 1mm holes through the bogie
mountings and floor (once the mounting has been fixed in place) either
side of the bogie pivot bolt and tap 12BA. Now secure the bogie pivot in place by bolting down through
the coach floor with short 12BA bolts (see bogie mounting diagram above right).
REMOVE A SMALL
AMOUNT
(LOOKING AT END)
12BA BOLTS
FLOOR
UNDERSIDE
BOGIE MOUNTING
3