EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU Assembly Instructions Manual

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"EASY-BUILD" DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS
108 DMU ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS.
SAFETY FIRST! CONSTRUCTING THIS KIT REQUIRES THE USE OF VOLATILE
SOLVENTS, ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS AND
ENSURE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. YOU WILL ALSO REQUIRE SHARP TOOLS
AND THE EDGES OF THE ETCHED PARTS CAN BE VERY SHARP SO TAKE
CARE WHEN HANDLING. WORK STEADILY AND SAFELY AT ALL TIMES.

INTRODUCTION

In order to get the most from your kit we recommend you read these instructions in full prior to
commencing construction making notes as to any assembly options, or changes to the suggested order
you think would suit your method of building better. However, we suggest you do follow to the order
of construction as we know it works! The general idea for assembly is to construct a box with a
removable floor. These are 'honest' instructions inasmuch that are based on our actual experience of
building the kit. If we have encountered a problem we will tell you how to get around it and where
practical future examples of this kit will be modified. Photo references will be found throughout these
instructions and consist of images taken of preserved units. Images of our Cravens units are also used
to illustrate a construction idea. To help you find the images they are identified by class and name of
photo. You will also find numerous additional prototype and model images to assist you create an
outstanding model.

GETTING STARTED

The basic steps are the same for both car types, so unless there is an operation specific to a particular
body type the instructions should be applied to both units as required.

PREPARING THE SIDES

1)
Wash all moulded parts to remove molding and machining lubricants. Check each side
molding against the edge of the end moldings. Whilst we take great care to ensure the ends of the
side molding are true and square, take a few moments to check that the ends will make a good joint
with the sides. Also, remove a small amount of the moulded rib on the inside of each side at the non-
cab ends, i.e. the baggage end of the DMBS and the toilet end of the DMCL - about 3mm is ample.
Also check all window openings for cutting burrs and remove as necessary.
2)
(DMBS) The power car have guard's doors that, on the prototype, open inward. To help you
identify the sides they are marked inside 1DMBS and 2DMBS in marker-pen. The guard's
compartment is located in the baggage area, so the guard's door is
one of the double (baggage) doors with a window on each side. On
the 1DMBS that is the first door with a window at the right hand end;
on 2DMBS the first door with a window at the left hand end (as you
look at the side flat on the table), see right. To depict the guard's
doors simply scribe a line between the two scribed lines that outline
version 5 Feb 2013
DOUBLE 'BAGGAGE' DOORS
Scribed Line

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Summary of Contents for EASY-BUILD DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU

  • Page 1 5 Feb 2013 "EASY-BUILD" DERBY LIGHTWEIGHT CLASS 108 DMU ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS. SAFETY FIRST! CONSTRUCTING THIS KIT REQUIRES THE USE OF VOLATILE SOLVENTS, ALWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS AND ENSURE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. YOU WILL ALSO REQUIRE SHARP TOOLS AND THE EDGES OF THE ETCHED PARTS CAN BE VERY SHARP SO TAKE CARE WHEN HANDLING.
  • Page 2 the door opening. This horizontal scribe mark should be 1.5mm up from the bottom of the body. DO NOT extend the scribed line past the door opening. See DMBS GUARD’S DOOR CLOSE UP (Cl. 108 prototype). With the exception of the guard's compartment, all doors have externally fitted hinges. Drill through all the holes in the sides 0.7mm dia.
  • Page 3 rub over with fine abrasive paper to round the edges slightly. That completes the sides for now. ROOF PREP You will notice your roof has a curve due to the molding process this is useful when fitted as it ensures the roof is a tight fit in the centre of your coach.
  • Page 4 CAB ENDS PREP The underside of the roof gutter (where the roof gutter meets the door opening) is slightly angled (a production process aid), carefully file this angle square in order to accurately fit the sides. Check the fit of the sides against the cab ends - make sure you’ve got the correct end of the side to work with, i.e.
  • Page 5 (DMCL) Fix a cab end to one side at the BAGGAGE END opposite end to toilet compartment (with the two small end windows) and the non-cab end to the other side DMBS adjacent to the toilet compartment to form an ‘L’ shape BAGGAGE END half box as shown right.
  • Page 6 28.7) Push in the bearings from the outside until the bearings connect with the axle ends. 28.8) When satisfied that the bearings are (just) against the pinpoint ends fill the bearing hole with the 2.5mm sprue supplied, or microrod (not supplied) and fix with liquid solvent from the outside and leave to harden.
  • Page 7 the side frame. See Bogie step and speedo drive (Cl. 105 model). **TIP Flattening the front spring hanger ‘bobbin’ back to the level of the leaf spring greatly simplifies the fitting of the step mountings. Although un-prototypical, once painted the flatness is hardly noticeable. POWER BOGIE 29.1) Find the brass power-bogie stretcher-plate, the two sideframe mountings (LH &...
  • Page 8 of the stretcher plate. DO NOT GLUE TO EITHER SIDEFRAME. As before, the bottom of the channel should be level with the bottom of the sideframe end, you might need to adjust the stretcher-plate extension a little to achieve this. 29.9) Finish off detailing the bogie assembly as outlined for the DMCL (rear) non-powered bogie, not forgetting the central bolster details, which are superglued to the inside of the sideframe mountings.
  • Page 9 LEAVE BODY TO HARDEN Once the roof has firmly set, take time now to inspect the fit of the roof outline against the end molding. Due to the different means by which the roof and ends are produced, it will be found that the alignment of the roof line and the ends requires blending with an appropriate car body, or modelling filler.
  • Page 10 FLOOR AGAIN! **TIP - Adding fillets of scrap styrene between the underside of the cab and the bufferbeam will greatly increase the security of the assembly. Aligning the fillets with the underframe ribs will ensure they will not interfere with fitting other details, or the couplings later. The rear bufferbeams should be fitted directly to the floor moulding.
  • Page 11 angled downwards. However, it’s getting a bit crowded in there and they can also foul the bogie on tighter radius curves. We suggest fitting the horn to the bogie front against the guard iron. If you opt to do this, reduce the length of the mounting bar to just above the first horn and butt it up to the bottom of the front channel.
  • Page 12 behind centre cab window at the top. Simply trim to a size that will fit between the central window pillars, paint and sandwich a suitable destination into the opening. Afix inside the top of the centre window. CREATING THE INTERIOR PARTITIONS See Drawing 1 for layout of the interior of the two cars including the partitions as described in the following steps.
  • Page 13 righthand) preparing as follows: 52.2) Add a vertical handrail to the edge of the partition lower wall as shown above using 0.9mm brass wire to all 10 half partitions. 52.3) Fold the bottom of each partition 90 opposite directions, again this will produce a partition HANDRAILS FROM 0.9mm WIRE that will stand upright.
  • Page 14 56.3) Add the two etched grills E8 to the rectangular opening of the two radiator blocks C29. 56.4) Fix 2x C22 onto their mounting C25 starting from the thin end (the thick end is the top). 56.5) Assemble the large vac tank from C28a, b & c - you can’t put this together wrongly! just remember to keep the mountings square to each other, or it will be difficult to attach to C24 C14 the floor.
  • Page 15 inside the opening in the casting. Mount all other step treads at the same height (both units) at the positions marked on the solebars STYRENE STRIP previously (step 56.1). Use the 18mm steps for the passenger and STEP cab doors and the 30mm steps for the baggage/guard’s door. Additional strength can be gained by adding a strip of styrene to the front of the solebar in line with the step, once painted it is hardly noticeable, see right.
  • Page 16: Final Assembly

    63.2) To form the seat, flex the moulding until the joint between the base and seat back shows a thin white line. Apply solvent, or superglue to the joint holding together briefly to prevent the back from initially springing apart. 63.3) The arm rests can be added to create first class type seats if required.
  • Page 17 If required, fit the destination board inside the centre window. Fit the door windows and brake compartment windows Fit the control desks on to the desk supports with two part epoxy. NOTE: The standard links used on model couplings are too short to couple these units together and still be able to negotiate model curves.
  • Page 18 DRAWING1 DRAWING2 All measurements (in mm) taken from rear of roof Water filler (DMCL only) Rear 46.5...
  • Page 19 DMBS/DMCL UNDERFRAME DETAILS LAYOUT...
  • Page 20 DMBS/DMCL CASTINGS CONTROL DESK DETAILS...
  • Page 21 ETCHED PARTS Key: E1) WINDSCREEN WIPERS E2) BOGIE STEP SUPPORTS E3) BOGIE FRONT CHANNEL E3a) BOGIE CHANNEL (with cutouts) E4) SALOON DIVIDERS (left and right) E5) FALSE FLOOR SUPPORTS E6) CAB PARTITION E7) GUARD IRONS E8) RADIATOR GRILL E9) INNER FRAME STRENGTHENERS E10) OUTER FRAME STRENGTHENER E11) DOOR HINGE BUTTERFLIES E12) HINGE PINS (short and tall)
  • Page 22 MODIFICATION TO FLOOR Since the floor of the power car was designed we’ve had to obtain our gearsets from a different supplier. This change meant we had to alter the position of the motor, which in turn created a problem with the aluminium bogie mounting. If fitted as described the motor will foul the edge of the round bogie mounting.

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