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For parts orders contact your local dealer To locate your closest Cobra dealer log on to www.cobramotorcycle.com or call (517) 437-9100 If you need technical assistance contact your local dealer or call the Cobra Technical Support Hotline at (517) 437-9100 Cobra Motorcycle MFG., Inc.
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DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY This motorcycle is sold “as is” with all faults, obvious or not. There are no warranties expressed or implied, including any warranty of merchantability and warranty of fitness for any particular purpose. “WARNING” THE COBRA CX50SR (KING) IS A COMPETITION MODEL ONLY AND IS NOT MANUFACTURED FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON PUBLIC STREETS, ROADS OR HIGHWAYS.
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– F ..................35 ARTS RONT RAKES – F ..................36 ARTS RONT HEEL – P & S ..............37 ARTS LASTIC ODYWORK – R ..................38 ARTS RAKE – R ..................39 ARTS HEEL – S ....................40 ARTS HOCK – S ................41 ARTS WINGARM SSEMBLY SERVICE ......................42 ....................42...
General Information Specifications - General Items CX50 SR Dimensions Wheelbase 39” (991mm) Wheel size 10” (254mm) rear, 12” (305mm) front Seat height 26” (660mm) Engine Type 2-stroke, single cylinder, reed valve Cooling system Liquid-cooled Coolant 50/50 antifreeze-coolant / distilled water Displacement 49.8 cc Bore and stroke...
Break-In Procedure Your Cobra CX50 JR is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break- in time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX50 JR can be ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time. Cobra recommends Motul 800 T2 premix oil with high octane pump gas mixed at 50:1 (50 ml oil to 1.3 gallon of gas, or 38ml oil to 1 gallon of gas).
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur.
CAUTION: Never rev an engine full throttle when it's cold or slightly warmed up and, for best clutch performance, warm up the bike before taking off. This is a high performance race motorcycle. Too much application of throttle will likely land your little racer on his or her arse. Fenders can be replaced but bruised egos and other body parts take longer.
Filling your transmission with more than 8.0 oz (235 cc) of lubricant may help to transfer heat from the clutch. Filling with more than 12 oz (350 cc) will degrade performance. The cylinder base gasket has been ‘fitted’ for your engine. The code number stamped into the engine cases will guide you to what thickness base gasket is required during a common top end service.
cases and can damage the stator as it cools off because of lack of airflow around the stator. If you ever need to weld anything on the bike, disconnect the spark plug cap, unplug the ignition, disconnect the kill switch, scrape the paint bare near the area to be welded and put the ground clamp as close to the area to be welded as possible.
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2. Lean bike against something or set on stand with oil drain hole. 3. Remove the oil drain plug located on the right side of the engine, on the clutch cover, near the brake lever (figure 1). Figure 1 4. After it has drained, reinstall the plug, being sure that the gasket is in place. 5.
Proper Chain adjustment Tools required for chain adjustment • 19 mm wrench or socket • 13 mm wrench or socket 1. Make sure that the rear wheel is aligned properly. For proper adjustment, the chain should have 35 mm (1 3/8”) free movement just behind the chain block with no load on the bike (figure 2)
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CAUTION: Use only DOT 4 brake fluid Setting rear brake pedal position (see figure 2b): 1. Loosen the lock nut (10mm wrench). 2. Adjust the brake lever stop (10mm wrench) so that the lever is comfortably reachable in both: a. Standing riding position, and b.
Air Filter Cleaning Figure A1 • Remove the seat (unscrew the knob under the seat & rear fender) • Squeeze the two tabs together as shown in figure A1 and pull the wire retainer up and out of the air box •...
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NOTE: It’s very important to oil your filter consistently each time because varied amounts of oil will change your carburetor jetting. 4. Apply grease to the black sealing surface of the filter and reinstall. Figure A2 5. Squeeze the two finger tabs together on the wire retainer and install into the airbox as in figure A2 6.
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CAUTION: If the side arms do not align with the associated holes it is quite likely that the legs did not make it into the holes. Realign and try again. 8. When properly installed, the filter and retainer should look like figure A4. Figure A4 NOTE: Make sure you change or clean your filter after each moto.
Frictional Drive (CFD) The Cobra Frictional Drive (CFD) is essentially a slip clutch that dissipates torque spikes transmitted from the rear wheel to the rest of the drive line and engine. Instead of these torque spikes potentially damaging internal components, the CFD allows the transmission to slip with respect to the engine.
Parts Parts – Airbox & Inlet System Coolant System REF # PART # DESCRIPTION TCCS0002 AIRBOX 2010 HCSP0003 SCREW – PLASCREW – AIRBOX TO FRAME RCCS0004 AIR FILTER 2010 RCCS0005 BACKING PLATE – AIR FILTER RCKG0503 RETAINER – AIR FILTER TCC61008 MUDFLAP –...
Parts - Carburetor Carburetor REF. # PART # DESCRIPTION RCMU0305 CARB SLIDE RCMU0601 NEEDLE RCMU00 ATOMIZER 2.62 AU RCMU00xx MAIN JET, xx denotes size RCMU00xx PILOT JET, xx denotes size CHOKE JET RCMU0301 FLOAT RCMU0102 RUBBER CABLE CAP SEAL RCMU0003 CABLE ADJUSTOR RCMU0006 TOP CARB SCREW...
Parts – Engine – Bottom End and Transmission Engine Bottom End and Transmission REF # PART # DESCRIPTION EKCS0002 CRANKCASE SET CMPLT 50CC 09 KING EKCS0002 CRANKCASE SET CMPLT 50CC 09 KING ZCCS0005 GASKET, CRANKCASE CENTER HCBC0605 6X40MM SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (6 REQ’D) HCBC0608 6X55MM SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW (1 REQ’D) HCBC0606...
Parts – Engine – Water Pump Engine – Ignition and Water Pump REF # PART # DESCRIPTION EKMU0011 WATER PUMP KIT ECKG0142 SHAFT, WATER PUMP ECKG0072 BEARING, WATER PUMP ECKG0074 SEAL, WATER PUMP SHAFT ECKG0073 IMPELLER, WATER PUMP (ALUMINUM) ECKG0004 RETAINER, WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY (MAY NOT BE NEEDED) HCBC1512 5X12MM SHCS STAINLESS...
Parts – Engine – Top End Engine – Top End REF # PART # DESCRIPTION ECMU0129 CYLINDER KIT (INCLUDES PISTON, RINGS, PIN & CLIPS) BASE GASKET 0.015” (0.4mm thick) For other Base Gaskets refer to ZCKG0501 Base Gasket Selection section of this manual ECMU0060x PISTON KIT (“x”...
Parts – Exhaust System Exhaust System REF # PART # DESCRIPTION XACS2010 2010 KING EXHAUST PIPE ZCMOTE11 HEADER PIPE O-RINGS (2 REQ’D) XCMU0005 EXHAUST SPRING - SHORT XCMU0033 ISOLATION MOUNT HCBF0612 M6X12 FLANGE HEAD BOLT HCBF0616 M6X16 FLANGE HEAD BOLT HCHA0003 6MM CLIP NUT –...
Parts – Front Brakes Front Brakes REF# PART # DESCRIPTION BAKG0003 FRONT BRAKE ASSEMBLY BCKG0030 HOSE – BRAKE FRONT BCKG0023 ALLOY BRAKE LEVER BCKG0024 BRAKE PERCH & MASTER CYLINDER ASSY W/ LEVER BCKG0029 CALIPER – FRONT BKKG0001 BRAKE PADS, WITH “E” CLIP BCMU0503 BRAKE ROTOR HCBC0501...
Parts – Front Wheel FRONT WHEEL REF # PART # DESCRIPTION WACSBW01 FRONT WHEEL W/BEARINGS/SPACERS (TALON) WCC6F014D TIRE DUNLOP 60/100-14 756 WCDCTU14 TUBE 14” WCDC0009 RIM LINER 14” WHEEL SHOWN WCCSBW09 SPOKE – FRONT – KING BIG WHEEL SHOWN WCCSBW11 NIPPLE –...
Parts – Plastic Bodywork & Seat Plastic and Seat REF # PART # DESCRIPTION TCC62010 GRAPHIC KIT – 2010 KING TCMU0016 FRONT FENDER HCBF0616 FRONT FENDER MTG BOLTS (4 REQD) TCC60002 FRONT NUMBER PLATE HCBF0612 M6X12 FLANGE HEAD BOLT – FRONT NUMBER PLATE MOUNT TCC60024 FUEL TANK (NO PETCOCK OR CAP) HCBC0503...
Parts – Shock Shock REF # PART # DESCRIPTION SACS2010 SHOCK ABSORBER 2010 HCBF1040 M10 X 40 HEX HEAD BOLT SCKGFX04 PRELOAD RING BOTTOM SCKGFX05 PRELOAD RING TOP (LOCK RING) SCKGFX37 SHOCK SPRING 3.7 KG/MM (MED) SCKGFX35 SHOCK SPRING 3.5 KG/MM (LIGHT) SCKGFX39 SHOCK SPRING 3.9 KG/MM (HEAVY) STANDARD BIG WHEEL SCKGFX03...
Service Trained technicians with precision gauging and proper assembly fixtures carefully assemble all Cobra engines to specific tolerances. If you feel you have the skills, and the appropriate tools, to perform the following service tasks please follow the instructions closely. The part numbers are listed throughout to help you when ordering parts from your local Cobra dealer.
Procedure for Compression Testing 1. Shut off the fuel petcock. 2. Install the compression gauge into the spark plug hole. 3. Hold the throttle to wide open, and kick repeatedly (approximately 20 times) or until the gauge reading does not increase in value with each kick. Base Gasket Selection Tools required •...
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NOTE Tolerances will affect the actual gasket thicknesses. If during the course of the maintenance more parts than the base gasket are changed, the squish clearance should be measured, and possibly a different base gasket will be required. The easiest way to measure squish clearance is with 1mm to 1.5mm thick flexible solder wire (available through most popular electronic stores).
Engine Removal To service the bottom end and transmission, the engine must be removed from the frame. Tools required • 10, 11, 13, 22 mm wrench • 8, 10, 14, 17 & 19 mm sockets • 3, 4 & 5 mm hex key (Allen wrench) •...
3. Using a flywheel holding tool and 14 mm socket remove the nut that secures the flywheel. 4. Using the Cobra flywheel / clutch puller (#MCMUTL68), remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. 5. Remove the stator (4mm hex key). 6. Remove the left hand thread blue nut holding the CFD to the transmission input shaft (19 mm socket).
Muratic acid can be dangerous. Follow the manufacturers instructions closely. 6. Remove the piston clip with a scribe. 7. Remove the piston pin with a piston pin remover. INSPECTION NOTE: Inspect the piston for abrasions and deposits on the top and sides and clean or replace as necessary.
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CAUTION: Insert a 7.05mm (0.278”) shim between the crank throws before pressing on the crank. 8. Insert the case screws with the proper lengths at locations shown. Figure 28 9. Torque to 12 Nm (105 in-lb) in the pattern shown in figure 28. 10.
CAUTION: Never force the cylinder. If resistance is felt, determine the problem and solve it. Once installed slightly rotate the cylinder back and forth insuring that the rings are properly seated. 15. Install cylinder head insert. NOTE: A light application of silicone grease can help hold the O-rings into position during assembly.
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Factors that affect what the clutch spring stack should be include 1) Amount of wear on shoes (this is difficult to measure and can only be approximated by the step in the shoe where it rides outside the basket – new shoes will not have one, old shoes will have a large one).
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bolts, etc…) to as close to the same length as you are willing to put effort into will result in a better performing motorcycle. Q: One of my two riders weighs 85 pounds and the other weighs 45 pounds. Should I have their clutches adjusted differently because of their weight? A: No, there is one best setting and it works for light or heavy riders.
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CAUTION: Do not heat the crankshaft threads or the aluminum shoes. 5. Keep tension on the puller as you are heating it. The clutch will often pop off under tension from the puller and it will be very hot. CLUTCH WASHER STACKUPS: Once the clutch is removed, and cool to touch, carefully put it into a vice and remove the center shoulder bolt out of each clutch shoe.
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Stack Total Flying Saucers Turned Away Std. Flat Springs or Cymbal Pairs or Dish Stacked Washer(s) 5 ½ Clutch adjustment washers Your Cobra comes stock with flat washer(s) at the bottom of the spring washer stack. Cobra offers several thicknesses of thin adjustment washers that allow clutch engagement tuning.
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Sludge build-up between the spring washers also keeps the clutch shoe from engaging fully and this will cause the clutch to start to slip. So you will need to clean the sludge out or just replace the spring washers and bolts with new ones. How quickly this sludge builds up depends on how often you change your oil and whether your rider is a throttle ‘blipper’.
Avoid allowing excess thread lock material to contact the spring washers and the clutch or the clutch is likely to malfunction. 4. Clean the center hole of the clutch and on the tapered section of the crankshaft. 5. Apply a small amount of wicking / bearing retainer (green) thread lock agent to the center tapered section of the crankshaft and taper of clutch arbor.
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will make your engine run hot. 1. The timing should not exceed the maximum specifications listed. 2. Improper carburetor jetting. 3. Improper spark plug heat range. Never run a hotter plug than the specified spark plug. 4. Clutch slippage. See “CLUTCH” section for causes of slippage. CAUTION: •...
1. Torque the nut on the rotor to 35 ft-lb (47 Nm) with high strength (red) thread locking agent. 2. Recheck the timing following the procedure of timing your ignition. 3. Install the water pump belt back on. 4. Bolt the ignition cover back on. 5.
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If the impeller is damaged or broken completely back flush the coolant system to ensure no solid pieces are in the system. 2. Remove ignition cover using a 4mm hex key (four places) 3. Stick a 3mm hex key in the water pump shaft cross hole, and remove belt retainer screw using a 4mm hex key.
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CAUTION: Damage may occur if one attempts to install the water pump and the device is not orientated correctly. If the tool does not sit flat against the cases, the orientation of the tool to the engine is not correct. Make sure that the top alignment pin is in the 2 unthreaded hole, the bottom alignment pin is also in the 2...
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the water pump shaft in (hammer) and out (with slide hammer) to insure proper free operation of the shaft. 13. Reinstall the pulley, belt and fan cover using a 3mm hex key to stop the rotation of the water pump assembly while tightening with medium strength thread lock to 10 ft-lb (14Nm).
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1. Changing the main jet to a smaller number. 2. Raising the needle clip (this lowers the jet needle) one notch at a time on the slide. Indications that the engine is running too lean are: • Engine cutting out on top end. •...
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4. Disassemble the carburetor. 5. Immerse all the metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution. 6. After the parts are cleaned, dry them with compressed air. 7. Blow out the fuel passages with compressed air. 8. Assemble the carburetor 9. Install the carburetor onto the motorcycle.
Figure 44 The presence of light may indicate that the reeds may need to be replaced, or possibly turned over. Exhaust The pipe is a crucial element to a motorcycle. Any kinks, dents, or damage done to the pipe will result in a major performance loss. NOTE: Be sure to take the pipe off, and any carbon that may be built up.
By eye, ensure that the rear sprocket is running true (in-line, planar) with the front sprocket. When the sprockets are running true, the wheel is properly straightened, and the chain will run straight. Brakes Check before each ride: • Make sure the brake does not have any leaks by holding the lever in while checking hose connections.
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8. Remove the bushings 9. Clean all components to be reused. FORK ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES: Figure 46 CAUTION: Make sure all components are clean before assembly. CAUTION: Be sure to apply oil to the new fork seal and other components before installing. 1.
CAUTION: The damper rod is hollow and will break if the nut is over tightened (proper torque is 12 ft-lb, 16 Nm). Because of different rider weights, sizes and riding styles, we offer various suspension options: See Optional Components section of this manual for details on these and other optional components for your Cobra Motorcycle.
Figure 48 Tuning Clutch There are performance characteristics to observe and things to measure. 1) Performance characteristics to observe a) Clutch coming in too late i) Engine rev’s to a high RPM before moving the motorcycle ii) Clutch never fully engages on a reasonable straight stretch iii) Basket turns blue in short amount of time b) Clutch coming in too early i) Motorcycle moves too soon when accelerating off idle...
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If a clutch comes in too early, it means that clutch spring stack is not providing enough force to keep the shoes from being thrown out to the clutch basket at the proper time with the given shoes, basket, arbor, and bolt. This can be due to: i) Clutch spring stack is to short (1) Wrong configuration (2) Sacked out (over stressed) washers...
• Make sure the engines pulls cleanly and strong by having properly maintained engine with correct ignition timing and carburetion. Also refer to the Clutch Service section of this manual for more information on proper clutch care. Gearing For a bike with a centrifugal clutch, it’s better to be geared too low than too high.
If the forks feel too stiff over small bumps try decreasing the weight (increasing the viscosity) of the fork oil. Rear suspension troubleshooting. Damping Always start with standard settings and make damping changes in no more than two click increments and only make one change at a time. Symptom Action Rear end feels stiff on small bumps...
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o Misfire at low engine speeds o Excessive smoke o Spark plug fouling o Excessive black oil dripping from exhaust system • Symptoms of too rich a fuel mixture o Poor acceleration o Engine will not ‘rev’ out, blubbers on top o Misfire at low engine speeds o Excessive smoke o Spark plug fouling...
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range of operation (specifically throttle position). Figure 49 FUEL SCREW ADJUSTMENT: Adjust for maximum idle speed The fuel adjustment screw is located on the left side of the carburetor. It is the smaller of the two adjustment screws and requires the use of a small flat blade screw driver for adjustment.
Troubleshooting 1) Engine operates erratically a) Carburetor top is installed backwards b) The carburetor slide indexing pin is missing c) A carburetor vent elbow is plugged or has fallen out d) Faulty stator e) An air leak i) Base gasket ii) Intake / reed gaskets iii) Crank seals iv) Crank case gasket...
ii) Is sour or bad b) Carburetor is dirty c) Ignition i) Spark plug fouled ii) Spark plug cap off iii) Engine Shut-off ‘kill’ switch is shorted iv) Bad electrical ground v) Stator winding damaged d) Exhaust is plugged with object of flooded fuel e) Engine is flooded f) Cracked, broken, or jammed reed pedal g) Excessive piston or cylinder wear...
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Swingarm........41 Hardware Top End ........29 Frame........33 Triple Clamps ......31 Plastic........37 Plastic & Seat Parts.......37 Pullers ...........63 Ignition Parts.......... 28 Rear Brake Service ........55 Adjustment.........14 Timing ........56 Parts ..........38 Rear Wheel Jetting Parts ..........39 How To........60 Pullers........63 Stock ...........
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