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far enough back to clear saw blade even
during cutting operation when the blade is
deflected toward the rear.
3. Tighten the two screws (G, Figure 8).
4. Open upper access door and rotate blade
wheel by hand until weld portion of blade is
between the two fingers.
5. Loosen two socket head cap screws (H, Figure
8) and adjust each finger toward the blade.
They should not touch the blade. Adjust for
0.010" clearance on either side.
6. Retighten the two screws (H, Figure 8) once
proper adjustment has been made. Be sure
that adjustment for air nozzle has not changed
and it directs the flow of air to the cut.
Figure 8
7. Adjust lower blade guides in similar manner.
Note: Even properly adjusted blade guides will
show wear after continual use. Readjust as
necessary. If the blade guides become difficult to
adjust, switch the left and right blade guides.
10.4 Top guide adjustment
Always position top guide to within 1/8" of the top
surface of workpiece. This minimizes exposure of
operator's hands to the saw blade.
10.5 Changing saw blades
1. Disconnect saw from power source.
2. Move upper blade guide to its highest position
and lock in place.
3. Open
both
wheel
adjustment handwheel counterclockwise to
loosen tension on blade.
4. Remove
blade
from
maneuver it around blade guard on column
and protective shield on upper blade guide.
Use gloves when handling blades.
5. Install new blade by maneuvering around
blade guard on column and protective shield
on upper blade guide.
6. Place it between the fingers of both blade
guides and onto both wheels. Position next to
doors.
Turn
tension
both
wheels
and
both wheel flanges. Make sure teeth point
down toward table. NOTE: If teeth will not
point
downward
orientation, the blade is inside-out. Twist blade
outside-in and reinstall.
7. Tension blade by turning tension handwheel.
Rotate wheel by hand and make sure blade is
properly seated in blade guides. Blade guides
will have to be adjusted if the replacement
blade is a different type and width.
8. Turn on saw and check blade tracking. Adjust
tracking if necessary.
10.6 Work lamp bulb
The work lamp uses a standard medium-base 60
watt bulb (not provided).
11.0 Blade selection
Proper blade selection is just as important to band
saw operation as is blade speed and material feed.
Proper blade selection will impact blade life,
straightness of cut, cut finish, and efficiency of
operation. Excessive blade breakage, stripping of
teeth, and waviness of cut are some of the results
of improper blade selection.
Blades are classified by material composition, tooth
shape, tooth pitch, tooth set, gage of the band
material, and kerf of the set (width of cut).
11.1 Material composition
Carbon Steel – low cost, for use with non-ferrous
materials, wood, and plastics.
High Speed Steel – resists heat generated by dry
cutting. Used for ferrous metals.
Alloy Steel – tough and wear resistant, cuts faster
with longer blade life. Used on hard materials.
More expensive than carbon or high speed steel.
Carbide Tipped – for cutting unusual materials
such as uranium, titanium, or beryllium.
11.2 Tooth shape
Note: When cutting thin materials, the rule for
blade pitch is to have a minimum of two teeth
engaging the material being cut at all times.
Standard Tooth - generally used to cut ferrous
metals, hard bronze, hard brass, and thin metals.
Skip Tooth - have better chip clearance (larger
gullet) and are used on softer, non-ferrous
materials such as aluminum, copper, magnesium,
and soft brass.
Hook Tooth - provides a chip breaker and has less
tendency to gum up in softer materials. Used in the
same materials as skip tooth but can be fed faster
than standard or skip tooth blades.
10
regardless
of
blade
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