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6. Check connections. The two red heavy gauge input wires on the relay satellite should have solid connections.
"T-taps" or "scotch locks" are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge wiring. Also, if the vehicle
has more than one 12-volt input wire, then connect one red wire to each.
I The vehicle starts, but immediately dies.
1. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle's immobilizer will cut the fuel and/or spark during unau-
thorized starting attempts.
2. Is the remote start programmed for voltage sense? If so, the start time may not be set high enough, or you
may have to adjust the voltage threshold in programming. Voltage sense will not work on some vehicles.
3. Check diagnostics. Sometimes a shutdown will become active during cranking or just after cranking.
I The vehicle starts, but the starter keeps running.
1. Is the system programmed for engine checking off or voltage sense? When programmed for either of these
features, the engine cranks for the preprogrammed crank time regardless of how long it takes for the vehicle
to actually start. Adjust to a lower cranking time.
2. Was the Tach Learn successful? The LED must light solid and bright to indicate a successful learn.
3. Make sure that there is a tach signal at the purple/white tach input wire of the remote start. If there is not
a tach signal, recheck the connection to the vehicle's tach wire and make sure the wire is not broken or
shorted to ground leading to the remote start.
I The vehicle will start, but will only run for 10 seconds.
1. Is the remote start programmed for voltage sense? Try programming the unit for low voltage reference. If this
does not work, a tach wire should be used.
2. Check diagnostics.
I The climate control system does not work while the unit is operating the vehicle.
Either the wrong accessory wire is being energized or more than one ignition or accessory wire must be ener-
gized in order to operate the climate control system.
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© 2000 Directed Electronics, Inc. Vista, CA
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