DURKOPP ADLER 745-34-2 Operating Instructions Manual
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DURKOPP ADLER 745-34-2 Operating Instructions Manual

DURKOPP ADLER 745-34-2 Operating Instructions Manual

Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap and welt pocket openings and pocket corners
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See also: User Manual , Instruction and Installation Manual
Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap
and welt pocket openings and pocket corners
Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld
Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 • Telefax + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25 24 35 • www.duerkopp-adler.com
Ausgabe / Edition:
Änderungsindex
08/2007
Rev. index: 01.0
Manual, complete
745 - 34 - 2
Working methods: A, B, D, F

Operating Instructions

Installation Instructions

Service Instructions

Instructions for Programming DAC
Printed in Federal Republic of Germany
1
2
3
4
Teile-Nr./Part.-No.:
0791 745181

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Summary of Contents for DURKOPP ADLER 745-34-2

  • Page 1: Operating Instructions

    Manual, complete 745 - 34 - 2 Sewing unit for runstitching of piped flap and welt pocket openings and pocket corners Working methods: A, B, D, F Operating Instructions Installation Instructions Service Instructions Instructions for Programming DAC Postfach 17 03 51, D-33703 Bielefeld • Potsdamer Straße 190, D-33719 Bielefeld Telefon + 49 (0) 5 21 / 9 25-00 •...
  • Page 2 745 - 34 - 2 Manual, complete Contents Operating Instructions Installation Instructions Service Instructions Instructions for Programming DAC Interconnection-diagram 9870 745154 B 9890 745002 B Pneumatic circuit plan 9770 745005 All rights reserved. Property of Dürkopp Adler AG and copyrighted. Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner, even in extracts, without prior written permission of Dürkopp Adler AG, is prohibited.
  • Page 3 Foreword This instruction manual is intended to help the user to become familiar with the machine and take advantage of its application possibilities in accordance with the recommendations. The instruction manual contains important information on how to operate the machine securely, properly and economically. Observation of the instructions eliminates danger, reduces costs for repair and down-times, and increases the reliability and life of the machine.

  • Page 4: General Safety Instructions

    General safety instructions The non-observance of the following safety instructions can cause bodily injuries or damages to the machine. 1. The machine must only be commissioned in full knowledge of the instruction book and operated by persons with appropriate training. 2.

  • Page 5: Table Of Contents

    Index Page: Part 1: Operating Instructions 745-34-2 (Edition 08/2007) Product Description Description of proper use ........Brief description .
  • Page 6 Index Page: 2.16.4 Throw-over stacker ......... . . 2.16.5 Roll-off device .

  • Page 7: Product Description

    Product description Description of proper use The 745-34-2 is a sewing unit which can properly be used for sewing light to medium-weight material. Such material is, as a rule, material made of textile fibres or leather. These materials are used in the garment industry.
  • Page 8 Step motors for the material feed and the length adjustment of the corner cutting device The step motor technology results in short machine times and guarantees an absolutely precise corner incision. Thus, it contributes to a pocket quality as yet unequalled and combined with high productivity.

  • Page 9: Technical Data

    Technical data Machine head: Class 0246 992002 Needle system: 2134-85 Needle distance: 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24, 26, 30 mm Needle size: Nm 80 to Nm110 Threads: see table chapter 2.4 Stitch type: Twin needle lockstitch Speed: min. 2000 rpm max.

  • Page 10: Optional Equipment

    Optional equipment Order No. Optional equipment 0745 597514 Downholder- pocket bag clamp Downholder for smoothing the fullness caused by darts as well as a clamping device for pocket bags 0745 597524 Waistband clamp For smoothing the fullness. Only possible in conjunction with 0745 597514 0745 597544 Endless zipper Scissors with roll-off device for endless zippers...
  • Page 11 Order No. Optional equipment 0745 597824 Smoother for the 745-34-2 A/B The smoother has the purpose to smooth the finished workpiece held by the bundle clamp. Only in combination with the table extension 0745 597674 and the roll-off device 0745 597954. 0745 597874 Set of parts “Pocket bag on flap”...

  • Page 13: Operation

    Operation Swinging the folding station aside For operations at the sewing point (threading the needle threads, needle change etc.) the whole folding station with folder and light barriers can be swung to the right. – Swing the complete folding station 1 with folder to the right.

  • Page 14: Pushing The Covering Hood Back And Removing The Fabric Sliding Sheet

    Pushing the covering hood back and removing the fabric sliding sheets Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Push the covering hood back and remove the fabric sliding sheet only with the sewing unit switched off. – Switch the main switch off For a better accessibility of the feeding clamps the covering hood can simply be displaced.
  • Page 15 For changing the hook thread bobbins: – Lift the fabric sliding sheet 2 in the area of pin 1 and swing it to the left. For a complete removal (for maintenance and adjusting operations): – Lift off the fabric sliding sheets at the pin 3.

  • Page 17: Tilting The Machine Head Up

    Tilting the machine head up For maintenance work the machine head can be tilted up. For this purpose the transport carriage must be in its rear end position. Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Tilting the machine head up. –...

  • Page 18: Needles And Threads

    Needles and threads Needle system: 2134-85 Recommended needle size: Nm 90 for thin material Nm 100 for medium-weight material Nm 110 for heavy-weight material High sewing security and good sewability are achieved with the following core threads: – Two-ply polyester endless polyester core-spun (e.g.
  • Page 19 Changing the needles Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Change the needles only with the main switch switched off. Risk of injuries from cuts! Do not reach into the area of the center knife 3 when changing the needles.

  • Page 21: Threading The Needle Thread

    Threading the needle thread Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Thread the needle threads only with the sewing unit switched off. The threading of the needle threads is done in ascending numerical order as shown in the illustrations opposite. –...

  • Page 22: Winding The Hook Thread

    Winding the hook thread The external winder makes it possible to wind the hook threads independent of the sewing operation. – Remove remaining thread from the bobbin hubs before winding. – Put the thread reel on the thread reel holder. –...

  • Page 23: Remaining Thread Monitor

    Remaining thread monitor The remaining thread monitor monitors the left and right hook thread bobbin with the infrared reflected light barriers 1 and 2. – When the bobbin is empty, the light beam transmitted by the light barrier 1 or 2 is reflected by the exposed reflecting surface 3 of the bobbin hub.

  • Page 24: Changing The Bobbins

    Changing the bobbins ATTENTION! Switch the main switch off before changing the bobbin. – After a certain number of seams the hook thread quantity on the bobbin is used up. – With the remaining thread monitor switched on the message “Empty bobbin”...
  • Page 25 Inserting a full bobbin – Insert a full bobbin in the upper part of the bobbin case 2. – Pull the thread through the slit 5 under the tension spring 6. – Pull the thread out of the upper part of the bobbin case for a length of approx.

  • Page 26: Thread Tension

    Thread tension The interlacing of the threads must lie in the middle of the workpiece. Thick and hard material requires a tighter thread tension than thin and soft fabrics. Too high thread tensions can lead to undesired ruffling and thread breakage in case of thin material.

  • Page 27: Stacking Control

    2.10 Stacking control The reflected light barrier 1 monitors the stacking and blowing-out of the sewn workpiece. The transport carriage does not return before the workpiece has been correctly moved out. – If the workpiece is not moved out correctly, the light beam between the reflected light barrier 2 and the reflecting sheet 1 remains interrupted.

  • Page 28: Slanted Pocket Corners

    2.11 Slanted pocket corners Dependent on the working method the 745-34-2 is equipped with an automatic or manual corner knife station. 0745 337524 Manual corner knife station The setting of the corner knives with regard to the pocket length is programmable and is effected via a step motor.

  • Page 29: Swinging The Corner Knife Station Out / In

    2.11.1 Swinging the corner knife station out / in The corner knife station 1 can be swung out completely. Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Swing the corner knife station out only with the sewing unit switched off.

  • Page 30: Setting The Corner Knives (Manual Corner Knife Station)

    2.11.2 Setting the corner knives (Manual corner knife station) With the 745-34 the slanted pockets result from the seam offset between the two seam rows programmed at the control panel. Caution: Danger of injury! Switch off the main switch. Set the corner knives only with the sewing unit switched off. –...
  • Page 31 Seam beginning Seam end Straight pocket corners Right and left corner knife incisions lie parallel Slanted pocket corners Right and left corner knife incisions lie offset Setting example: Seam offset = 2 stitches stationary knife...

  • Page 32: Reference Position - Starting The Sewing Cycle - Quick Stop

    2.12 Reference position - Starting the sewing cycle - Quick stop Reference position The reference position is necessary in order to get a defined initial position. – Switch the main switch on. The control is initialized. – The DÜRKOPP-ADLER logo briefly appears on the screen. –...

  • Page 33: Flap And Piping Projection

    Quick stop The safety system of the 745-34-2 offers two possibilities for the immediate shut-down of the sewing unit in case of faulty operation, needle breakage, thread breakage etc.: – Step back on the left pedal. The current step of the positioning process or the sewing cycle is aborted immediately.

  • Page 34: Piping Strip Length

    Setting the sew-in depth of the flap The stop 8 determines the sew-in depth and thus the flap projection. – Pull the stop 8 to the front (towards the operator) and lift it. Place stop 8 in another pair of slotted holes. –...

  • Page 35: Working Methods

    2.15 Working methods Working method Remarks Piped pockets, manual positioning of piping strip, flaps and other additional parts Piped pockets, automatic feed of the piping strip, with/without incision of the piping ends optional automatic feed of flap and additional parts from the right or from the left or both sides Breast welt pockets, automatic feed and matching...

  • Page 36: Working Method A (Production Of Trousers)

    2.15.1 Working method A (Production of trousers) Possible processing variants – Front trousers pockets with underlaid pocket bag. – Hind trousers pockets with or without flap, with underlaid pocket bag. – Hind trousers pockets with or without flap, with automatically fed reinforcement strip.
  • Page 37 step: step: step:...
  • Page 38 Positioning the piping strip Double piping: – Position the piping strip centered on the feeding clamps and flush with the front edges. Single piping (left) with separately positioned facing (right): – Position the piping strip on the left feeding clamp flush with the cutting line.

  • Page 39: Sewing With Flap

    2.15.2 Sewing with flap For the simultaneous sewing-in of flaps or other additional parts the following optional equipment is required according to the field of application: Production of trousers: Flap clamp, right (Order No. 0792 011162) Production of jackets: Flap clamp, left (Order No.
  • Page 40 Sewing with the flap on the right (Production of trousers) – When manufacturing trousers always position the flap at the “Rear positioning point” (light spot 5). The “Rear positioning point” is a fixed point also for other sewing units (further flap lengths). –...

  • Page 41: Sewing With Light Barrier

    2.15.2.2 Sewing with light barrier When sewing in flaps the seam beginning and seam end are recognized by the light barrier. Positioning the flap The positioning marks 6 on the folder limit the sewing area for the attaching of flaps. –...

  • Page 42: Working Method A (Production Of Jackets) Piped Pockets, Manual Positioning Of Piping Strip, Flaps And Other Additional Parts

    2.15.3 Working method A (Production of jackets) Piped pockets, manual positioning of piping strip, flaps and other additional parts Loading positions for left or right jacket front parts – Position the left jacket front parts at the rear positioning point (light spot 3).
  • Page 44 Caution: Danger of injury! Do not reach into the working area of the positioning device when triggering the individual steps of the positioning process. Positioning and starting the sewing cycle Position the jacket front part on the fabric sliding sheet. a) Plain goods: Left jacket front parts: Position the jacket front part with breast dart 10 at the light spot 9.
  • Page 46 Step forward on the pedal. The folder 20 lowers. Position the flaps on the left feeding clamp at the stop 14 and align in sewing direction. Left jacket front parts: Position flap 5 at the rear stop 13 of the folder 20. Right jacket front parts: Position flap 5 at the front stop 8 of the folder 20.

  • Page 48: Working Method B

    2.15.4 Working method B Piped pockets, automatic feed of the piping strip, without/with incision of the piping ends Example: Sewing pocket openings with or without flap in jacket front parts Loading positions for left and right jacket front parts – Position the left jacket front parts 7 at the rear light spot 6.
  • Page 50 10. Step forward on the left pedal. The piping strip is cut and taken up by the pick-up folder. The transport carriage moves to the loading position. The feeding clamps lower. 11. Step forward on the left pedal. The pick-up folder 17 lowers with the piping strip. The folding sheets close.
  • Page 52 Example: Sewing pocket openings with or without flap in hind trousers Loading positions for hind trousers parts – Hind trousers can be positioned according to two methods: a) symmetrical at the central light spot 2 (according to the dart) b) according to the positioning marks 4 or 8 –...
  • Page 53 Sewing area max. 180/220 mm ½ x pocket length Sewing direction...
  • Page 54 Caution: Danger of injury! Do not reach into the working area of the positioning device when triggering the individual steps of the positioning process. Positioning and starting the sewing cycle With piping incision Position the piping strip at the front stop 21 or at the rear stop 22. Position the piping strip at the lateral stop 23.
  • Page 56 Step forward on the left pedal. The pick-up folder 23 lowers with the piping strip onto the hind trousers. The folding sheets close. The piping strip is blown against the folder by air nozzles fitted in the feeding clamps. For adjustment see Programming Instructions, chapter 6.4 Modes “Blowing of pocket bag/flap”.

  • Page 58: Working Method D

    2.15.5 Working method D Breast welt pockets, automatic feeding and matching of the breast welt The maximum sewing length for breast welt pockets is 125 mm. The positioning device allows an overlapped working method. Sewing patterned or plain goods When processing plain goods it is not necessary to align jacket front part and breast welt 2 as per pattern.
  • Page 60 Caution: Danger of injury! Do not reach into the working area of the positioning device when triggering the individual steps of the positioning process. Positioning and starting the sewing cycle Align the jacket front part at the positioning marks 12 and 16. The positioning marks (e.g.
  • Page 61 14 15...
  • Page 62 For positioning corrections: Step back on the left pedal. The flap clamp 17 opens. Step back on the left pedal once again. The feeding clamps lift. The transport carriage runs back to the waiting position. 12. Step forward on the left pedal. The positioning process starts anew.

  • Page 64: Working Method F

    2.15.6 Working method F Piped pockets, automatic feed of the piping strip, incision of piping ends, matching and feeding of the flap The working method F allows the matching of the flap as per pattern. There is no need to sketch the flap manually. The advantages are a simplified and quick handling as well as a constantly high quality when processing chequered and striped fabrics.
  • Page 66 Step forward on the left pedal. The matching device 17 swivels in. For a better positioning and alignment of flap 18: Switch the vacuum on and off by stepping back on the right pedal in inching operation. 10. Position the flap 18 at the laser marking 19. 11.
  • Page 67 Step forward on the left pedal. The sewing cycle starts. Note According to the selected pedal mode the sequence of the positions 12 to 18 is effected in inching operation or automatically. See Programming Instructions, chapter 6.4, for pedal mode selection. By actuating the key “F3”...

  • Page 68: Folder Monitoring

    2.15.7 Folder monitoring The folder in use is monitored by the sensors S 7 and S 8. The sensors are actuated by a hexagonal bolt screwed in the pick-up folder. If a sewing program with incorrect clamp position settings is started, the following message appears: Info 9014 Correction...

  • Page 69: Functions And Operation Of The Optional Equipment

    2.16 Functions and operation of the optional equipment In this chapter the function and the operation of the most important optional equipment is described. 2.16.1 Automatic incision device for piping ends With the automatic incision device for piping ends the piping strip end is cut open from the center knife incision to the piping ends.
  • Page 70 Function and operation Positioning when processing double piping – Position the piping strip at the front or rear stop 1 for the respective positioning point. Position the piping strip also at the lateral stop 2. – Carry out the loading process as described in chapter 2.15.4 (method B) or chapter 2.15.6 (method F) and start the sewing cycle.
  • Page 71 View of the cutting areas Seam beginning Piping strip Pocket length fixed cutting length of the piping knife cutting length within the pocket length Ü = Cut-open piping projection 30 mm with sewing length 180 20 mm with sewing length 200 seam end Example: Cutting length:...

  • Page 72: Downholder, Pocket Bag And Waistband Clamp

    2.16.2 Downholder, pocket bag and waistband clamp With these equipment hind trousers and pocket bags are safely held when smoothing out the fullness caused by the dart. The devices consist of the following components: Order No. 0745 597514 – Downholder 1 –...

  • Page 73: Feeding Devices For Flaps, Pocket Bags Etc

    2.16.3 Feeding devices for flaps, pocket bags etc. When using these feeding aids the total duration of a working cycle is reduced. Flap, pocket bag etc. are manually positioned during the machine time already. All feeding devices can also be used in combination with the device for cutting open the piping ends.

  • Page 74: Throw-Over Stacker

    2.16.4 Throw-over stacker The finished workpieces are stacked on the throw-over stacker (Order No. 0745 597554). The stacked and clamped workpieces can be removed when actuating the foot switch 7. The triggering of the stacker is effected via a control impulse from the solenoid valve YC 111.

  • Page 76: Roll-Off Device

    2.16.5 Roll-off device The stacker extension (Order No. 0745 597954) is used in combination with the throw-over stacker. The transport rollers 1 convey the workpiece into the stacker opening. This is necessary for all workpieces positioned in transverse direction or which are too short for being seized by the throw-over stacker (e.g.

  • Page 77: Blow-Out Device

    2.16.6 Blow-out device The blow-out device 1 (Order No. 0745 597604) is used in conjunction with the bundle clamp. The blower pipe conveys the workpiece out of the sewing area. Switching the blow-out device on – Switch the blow-out device on in the menu item “Machine parameters”.

  • Page 78: Bundle Clamp And Roll-Off Device

    2.16.7 Bundle clamp and roll-off device The roll-off device (Order No. 0745 597954) is used when sewing hind trousers parts. The transport rollers 1 convey the finished workpiece out of the sewing unit so that it hangs down on the bundle clamp 2 (Order No. 0745 597694).

  • Page 79: Tape Feed And Automatic Cutting

    2.16.8 Tape feed and automatic cutting The electromotive, length-controlled tape feed and automatic cutting transports the reinforcement strip under the pocket opening and cuts it off at the seam end (e.g. when sewing jacket inside and outside pockets). The whole sequence occurs within the machine time. Further positioning and auxiliary times are not required.
  • Page 81 Inserting the reinforcement strip – Press the wire clamp 1 together. – Pull off the disc 2 and remove the empty roll. – Insert a new roll. The full roll must rotate in the indicated arrow direction when unwinding (counter-clockwise). –...

  • Page 83: Endless Zipper Device

    2.16.9 Endless zipper device The endless zipper device is available under the order number 0745 597544. Activating and switching the zipper device on – Activate the zipper device at the control panel in the menu item “Machine parameters“. (See Programming Instructions, chapter 7.2) The parameter signals the control that the sewing unit is equipped with a zipper device.

  • Page 84: Vacuum Device

    2.16.10 Vacuum device The vacuum device to be ordered under the order number 0745 597624 is required for an accurate positioning of the workpieces, if no in-house vacuum unit is available. Switching the vacuum device on – Switch on switch 1 at the control box of the vacuum unit.

  • Page 85: Working Method B With Set Of Parts "Pocket Bag On Flap

    2.16.11 Working method B with set of parts “Pocket bag on flap” The set of parts allows the simultaneous attaching of two pocket bag halves when sewing the piping. Flap and pocket bag are separated before sewing so that the light barrier scans the flap length only.
  • Page 87 Positioning and starting the sewing cycle Example: Right jacket front part With automatic piping incision Position the piping strip 2 at the front stop 8. Position the piping strip also at the lateral stop 3. Step forward on the right pedal and hold it stepped down. The left piping clamp 4 opens.

  • Page 88: Zipper Feeders For Method B

    2.16.12 Zipper feeders for method B Zipper feeders are available for the processing of cut-to-length zippers, without slider, total width 24 mm, chain width approx. 4 mm, in four different variants: Order No.: 0745 597764 Right zipper feeder, in case of ready-made pocket chain inside, in conjunction with feeding device 0745 517574 Order No.: 0745 597774 Left zipper feeder, in case of ready-made pocket chain inside,...

  • Page 89: Set Of Parts "Shaped Guide Lining Loop Triangle" For 745-34-2 Methods B And F

    2.16.13 Set of parts “Shaped guide Lining loop triangle” for 745-34-2 methods B and F With this equipment the lining loop triangle is automatically fed with the pocket bag when sewing inside pockets. Only in conjunction with the methods B and F. Order No.: 0745 597614 Adjusting the shaped guide –...

  • Page 90: Smoother For 745-34-2 A And B

    2.16.14 Smoother for 745-34-2 A and B The smoother 1 is used when sewing hind trousers parts. It is used together with the bundle clamp 2 and the table extension 3. The roll off device will convey the finished workpiece out of the sewing unit.

  • Page 91: Maintenance

    Maintenance Caution: Danger of injury! Switch the main switch off. Carry out maintenance work only with the sewing unit switched off. Cleaning A clean sewing unit protects from malfunctions! Clean and check daily: – Clean the area around the hooks 2 and 3 with the compressed air pistol.
  • Page 92 Clean and check daily: – Check the water level in the pressure regulator. The water level must not reach the filter element. After screwing in the drain screw 1 blow the water out of the water separator 2 under pressure. The filter element separates dirt and condensed water.
  • Page 93 Check and clean weekly With the sewing units with automatic piping incision 0745 337554 – Loosen screw 2 and remove the stop 3. – Clean the surroundings of the cutting unit and transport – Mount the stop 3 again.

  • Page 94: Weekly Lubrication

    Weekly lubrication For lubrication of the sewing unit use exclusively the lubricating oil DA-10. The oil can be bought from the sales offices of DÜRKOPP ADLER AG. Order-No.: 9047 000011 = 250 ml Order-No.: 9047 000012 = 1 l Order-No.: 9047 000013 = 2 l Order-No.: 9047 000014 = 5 l Checking the oil level in the oil reservoir 3 for the lubrication of the machine head...

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