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MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance
Routine maintenance will help your
water heater last longer and work
better. If you can't perform these
routine maintenance tasks yourself,
contact a qualified person.
Water Heater Maintenance
After the first six months, drain and
flush the water heater and inspect the
anode rod. Depending on the hardness
of your water, repeat this process at
least annually, or more frequently if
needed. From time to time you may
need to replace a heating element or
a thermostat. All three maintenance
tasks are described below.
Draining and Flushing the
Water Heater
Tap water contains minerals that
can form lime deposits on heating
elements or sediment in the bottom of
the tank. The amount of lime deposits
or sediment depends on the hardness
of your tap water. The rate at which
sediment builds up depends on water
quality and hardness in your area,
the temperature settings, and other
variables. We recommend draining and
flushing the water heater after the first
six months of operation to determine
the amount of sediment build up.
Draining sediment extends the life of
the tank, heating elements, and drain
valves.
• In areas with very hard water,
remove and check the heating
elements whenever you drain the
tank. If you have heavy lime deposits
on heating elements, you will need
to replace them more often.
• Sediment may form large masses that
can prevent the tank from draining.
Have a qualified person use a de-
liming agent suitable for potable water
to remove the sediment buildup.
• In most cases, it is easier and cheaper
to replace lime-encrusted elements
24 • Commercial Electric Water Heater Use and Care Guide
than trying to remove heavy lime
deposits.
To drain and flush the tank:
Locate the water heater's
1
circuit breaker and turn it OFF
(or remove the circuit's fuses).
Figure 24 - Circuit Breaker
Open a hot water faucet and
2
let the hot water run until it is
cool.
Figure 25 - Water Faucet
WARNING! Be sure the water runs
cool before draining the tank to
reduce the risk of scalding.
Connect a garden hose to the
3
drain valve and place the
other end of the hose in a
drain, outside, or in buckets.
Turn the cold water supply
4
valve OFF.
Open the drain valve on the
5
water heater.
Figure 26 - Drain Valve
Open a hot water faucet to
6
help the water in the tank
drain faster.
NOTICE: DO NOT turn electrical power
back on unless the tank is completely
full of water.
Remove and inspect the
7
anode rod (see Repair Parts
Illustration on page 28 for
location of the anode rod). Replace the
anode rod if it is depleted. Turn power
off. Run hot water until it's cool. Turn
cold water supply valve off. Open a hot
water faucet to depressurize tank.
Locate and remove the black plastic
cover marked "Anode." Use a "key
hole" saw or similar tool to remove the
foam insulation covering the anode
rod. Once the anode rod is exposed,
use a 1 1/16" socket wrench with an
extension to remove it. Inspect the
anode rod and replace if depleted.
Apply thread sealant tape or pipe joint
compound and reinstall the anode rod
tightly. It is not necessary to replace
the foam removed to access the
anode. Turn cold water supply valve
on. When hot water runs full, close hot
water faucet. Check for leaks and
repair if necessary. Turn power on.
Figure 27 - Anode Rods from new (top) to
partially depleted (middle) to fully depleted
stage (bottom)
Anode Rod. The anode rod is a
sacrificial metal rod that helps reduce
corrosion and premature failure
(leaks) in the tank. The anode rod
is a consumable item. Inspect the
anode rod after the first six months of
operation when you drain and flush
the tank. Replace the anode rod if it
is substantially worn out or depleted.
Thereafter, inspect the anode rod
annually or more frequently if needed.
If you use a water softener, your anode
rod will deplete faster than normal.
Inspect the anode rod more frequently,
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