Section 4 - Troubleshooting - Central Boiler CLASSIC Owner's Manual

A. FURNACE DOES NOT HEAT (BUILDING IS LOSING
TEMPERATURE)
1. Circulation valve(s) closed - Be sure all valves in the
system are open.
2. Out of wood - Check firebox to see if fire is out. Add
wood as necessary. Use good quality wood as poor
quality wood will have very short burn times.
3. Solenoid not operating properly - Disconnect power
to the furnace: then check fuse in control panel. If
fuse is blown, check damper door for obstructions
and free movement. Be sure damper door works
freely; then replace the fuse. Check the solenoid
plunger free length. With the damper door fully
closed, the correct length is between 15/16 and 1 in.
(see Fig. 40). Adjust if necessary, but do not exceed
1 in. Be sure that the damper door (when activated
by the solenoid) does not contact the louvered cover.
Lubricate or adjust as necessary.
4. Circuit breaker off - Check the circuit breaker that
supplies power to the furnace.
5. Furnace exhaust obstructed - Check furnace exhaust
for obstructions by observing the amount of smoke
coming out of chimney with the firebox door slightly
ajar. If smoke seems very restricted, remove the
firewood and hot coals and check chimney (top and
bottom) and behind the baffle for obstructions.
6. Circulation pump not operating/installed
backwards - Check to see if circulation pump is
operating and pump flow direction is correct. If not,
shut off power to pump. If the flow is not the correct
direction, disconnect pump from water line and
reverse pump mounting to correct flow direction. Also
if not mounted on the furnace, check for proper pump
mounting location (see Fig. 13-16). Be sure the power
is disconnected before working on the pump. Close
valves at the pump. Take the pump apart and try to
turn pump shaft. If shaft is stuck, replace pump
cartridge (or pump if necessary). Replace only the
cartridge whenever possible. Follow instructions
supplied with the pump.
7. Air in system - Check for air in the water lines or heat
exchanger. If you hear a gurgling sound in the heat
exchanger, air is present in the system. Either shut
off the pump and wait 15 seconds and try again or
force air from lines as described earlier in filling the
furnace with water (pages 28-29).
8. Water lines installed incorrectly - Make sure the hot
supply water line is connected to the correct fitting
on the furnace and heat exchanger (see Fig. 9 & 10).
9. Water lines insulated poorly - Heat loss in
underground lines (evidenced by an unusually high
amount of snow melting above lines when the ground
temperature is 20º F or colder) due to improper
installation (see Water Supply Lines And Insulation
section).
30

SECTION 4 - TROUBLESHOOTING

10. Water lines uninsulated - Losing heat from
uninsulated water lines in areas that are not intended
to be heated (unheated crawl spaces, under mobile
homes, etc.). Correct the situation by insulating the
lines.
11. Excessive building heat loss - Poorly insulated or
uninsulated building and/or buildings with
uninsulated or poorly insulated ceilings can cause
excessive wood consumption and or heating
problems.
B. FURNACE IS OVERHEATING OR BOILING.
NOTE: If furnace boils do not be alarmed, but
identify the cause and correct immediately; the
furnace will not be damaged by boiling unless
repeated boiling reduces the water level below the
safe level. If water boils, restore water level to full
and add Corrosion Inhibitor. If water is added
frequently it will cause deterioration in the water
jacket which will reduce the life of the furnace.
1. Air entering through the door - Make sure the door
is properly latched. Check the condition of the door
rope. If it is not sealing properly (as indicated by a
uniform indentation in the rope), replace the rope. If
door does not close tightly, adjust using the
appropriate procedure.
Loosen the adjustment nut (two nuts on the dual
Cam Loc ® style door) and slide the lock assembly
in slightly toward the furnace; then tighten securely
(see Fig. 39). On the dual Cam Loc doors, make
sure to adjust both the top and bottom for equal
pressure when latched.
2. Air entering through the damper - Check to be sure
the damper is operating correctly as explained in
section A.3. Be sure the damper closes all the way
and that no obstructions are present. If the solenoid
is sticking, lubricate with silicone spray or a light
petroleum distillate (WD-40 or equivalent). Check
linkage for binding.
Fig. 39
Section 4 - Troubleshooting