Page 1 R E V I S I O N 3 X , A U G U S T 2 0 1 7...
Page 2  2017 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...
Page 3: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents General Information ............... 12 Foreword ..................12 Safety Notice ................. 15 Safety Tips ..................16 How to use This Book ..............17 What You Get ................17 What You Need ................18 Major Components.................. 18 Serial Number Identification ............20 Tools List ..................
Page 4 Speedometer and Clutch Cables ............42 Shifter and Shifter handle ............... 43 Emergency Brake Handle ............... 43 Fuel Inertia cut-off switch ................ 44 Rear and Transmission Wiring Harnesses ..........44 Exhaust ....................45 Engine Removal ..................45 Front Suspension ..................47 Fuel Tank ....................
Page 5 Aluminum Removal ............... 81 Chassis Assembly ..............86 Rivet Spacing Tool ................ 87 Engine bay F panel aluminum ............87 Engine bay F panel aluminum ............87 Front Suspension ................90 Front lower control arm ................90 Front upper control arm ................91 Pivot endplay ..................
Page 6 Wilwood brake routing ................163 Wilwood e-brake adapter ..............164 Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum ........165 Pedal Box ..................167 87-93 Pedal Box ................... 167 94-04 Pedal Box ................... 171 Accelerator Cable ............... 172 87-93 Fuel Injected and Carbureted Applications ........ 173 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications ............
Page 7 Gauge Pod Installation ..............235 Ignition and Turn signal stalk ............237 Trunk Aluminum ................238 Cockpit rear wall ................. 242 Battery Mounting and Cable ............242 Drivetrain Preparation ..............249 Aftermarket TKO 500 and TKO 600 prep ..........249 99-04 Transmission mount ..............
Page 8 Radiator Mounting................. 291 96-04 additional steps ................292 Stainless Radiator Hoses ..............296 87-93 Fan Wiring .................. 300 Aluminum panels ................ 303 Transmission Tunnel Cover ..............303 Driver Footbox Side Aluminum ............. 304 Emergency Brake ............... 305 E-brake Handle ..................305 E-brake Cables ..................
Page 9 Door Latch .................. 386 Trunk ................... 389 Trunk Hinge ..................390 Trunk Latch ................... 393 Body Cut-outs ................396 Fuel filler ....................396 Tail light ....................397 Turn Signal .................... 399 License plate light ................. 400 Side exhaust ..................402 Headlights .....................
Page 10 Fuel tank access covers .............. 469 Final Trunk Mounting ..............470 Interior Rearview Mirror ............... 471 Side Mirror .................. 475 Light wiring .................. 480 Check straps ................481 Under door Aluminum ..............484 Steering wheel center section ............. 485 Side Exhaust ................487 Aluminum Splash guards ............
Page 11 Helpful Reference Material ............518 Must Reads ................... 518 Helpful ....................518 Catalogs/Parts ..................518 Factory Five Aftermarket ..............518 Tools ..................... 518 Insurance ....................518 A Final Note about Completed Cars and Car Builders ....519 Appendix A – Templates ............520 Appendix B –...
Page 12 Accelerator Pedal.................. 548 Gauge Cluster ..................548 Pedal Box ....................548 Appendix F – Fluid Specifications ........549 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 13: General Information
Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
Page 14 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.
Page 15 You will join a community of others who have earned their own… and THAT is the story of Factory Five Racing and that is what awaits you in this process.
Page 16: Safety Notice
If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
Page 17: Safety Tips
Safety Tips  Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start.  Don’t take short cuts.  Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job.
Page 18: How To Use This Book
How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
Page 19: What You Need
Gauges and Dash and Electrical Assembly: Base kit parts are included to adapt the Mustang wiring harness. The kit comes with components to build your car with an authentic original street style dash. Complete assembly comes with aluminum dash, padded vinyl dash cover, toggle switches and indicator lights, Mustang gauge conversion kit with machined bezels, spacers, wiring extensions, fasteners and lenses.
Page 20 Driveshaft: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Rear End: 1987-2004 Ford 8.8” rear axle. 1987-1993 width is optimal Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Radiator and Fan shroud: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Steering Rack: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Fuel tank/pump and filter: 1987-2004 Ford Mustang.
Page 21: Serial Number Identification
Wheels and Tires: See the appendix for complete recommended sizes. Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit.
Page 22: Tools List
Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools.
Page 23: Required Supplies
Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...
Page 24: Donor Parts And Prep
Chapter Donor Parts and Prep www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 25: The 5.0L Mustang
This chapter deals with the Mustang parts needed in addition to our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful. The complete list of parts required to build the FFR Roadster is included in the Appendix of this manual.
Page 26: Donor Part Selection Tips
 The 4.6L engine is quiet while cruising and loud upon acceleration where the 5.0L is loud all the time.  The 4.6L gets better mpg for the same horsepower level.  The 4.6L engine is more expensive to upgrade parts. You have to buy two or four cams vs. one, etc... ...
Page 27: Where To Look
When you attempt to start the vehicle, the computer sends out a RF signal that is picked up by the transponder in the key. The transponder then returns a unique RF signal to the vehicle's computer, giving it the ok for the vehicle to start and continue to run. The car will not work without the key. 1996-1997 PATS I System - This system requires at least one key in order to program another key.
Page 28: Price
Specialties USA West Coast All Mustang Tommy Performance Phoenix, AZ 800-454-8387 Thompson www.ampperformance.com Mustang Village Fontana, CA 909 823 7915 Scott or Tom www.mustang-village.com Cypress Auto Berkley, CA 510 451 3034 Mike Percy www.cypressautorecyclers.com/factory5.html Mustang Depot Las Vegas, NV 702 281 4517 www.mustangdepot.com Price Whether you’re buying a complete salvage yard car or a bunch of parts, it’s important to remember...
Page 29: Disassembly Of A Mustang Donor For Parts
axles (from rollovers or hard side hits). These are not too hard to fix but it’s good to know up front when you’re planning your budget. A quick way to verify mileage is by inspecting the drum brake shoes on the unit. The drum pulls straight out, off the axle. Rear shoes are never really replaced until about 60-100K miles unless there was severe duty (read abuse) placed on the car.
Page 30: Radiator/Cooling System
transmission mount, and the drive shaft). Think of this job as a reverse assembly line and it will go faster. If you are getting ready to disassemble a Mustang, please refer to the “donor parts list” Appendix. A Chilton’s repair manual has quite good step-by-step disassembly instructions for each assembly.
Page 31: 87-95 Brake Power Booster
87-95 Brake Power Booster  Socket set, wrenches or box wrenches for brake lines, tube cutter, tape, and marker pen.  Mustang power booster push rod, brake light switch/spacer/clip. Remove the brake rod retainer clip from the top of the brake pedal. Remember the order in which these washers and spring clips are removed so that you can reinstall them faster later.
Page 32 Brake switch parts. Place a bucket under the Hydro-booster. Label all hoses that attach to the hydro booster. Disconnect the hoses draining them into the bucket. Attach tape to the brake lines and mark their positions on the master cylinder and distribution block. Remove the four bolts that connect the hydro boost mount and pedal box to the firewall On the Hydro-booster, remove the snap ring in front of the retaining nut inside the car Remove the nut that retains the hydro booster to the firewall using the tool provided with the kit.
Page 33: 1996-2004 Abs Brakes
1997 Hydro-booster, Master cylinder, Hydro-boost retaining nut and snap ring. 1996-2004 ABS Brakes If power brakes are going to be used, an addition that is optional and not necessary but is very useful is the use of the ABS system from the Mustang. This does complicate the brake set-up but when driving the car the difference is noticeable.
Page 34: 96-04 Steering Rack And Power Steering Cooler
 Never heat or lubricate the tie rod end to make removal easier. Remove the two bolts that secure the steering rack to the frame and lower the rack out of the car. Mustang steering rack with lines removed with rubber bushings and fasteners. 96-04 Steering Rack and Power Steering Cooler ...
Page 35  Mustang coil, EGR assembly, vacuum lines, starter solenoid, mass air meter, and throttle cable.  Remember to identify both ends of every connector disassembled. The easy way to do this is to tape and number each side of the connector the same. The connectors will only work if they’re mated to the other similar shaped connector.
Page 36: Interior
Remove and discard the front driver’s side plastic wheel well using a 7mm socket to loosen it from the body. Disconnect and remove the horns. They are located just forward of the wheel well on the driver’s side (accessed from the wheel well). Label and mark the connectors with tape. Interior ...
Page 37: Computer
while moving the cable wheel toward the firewall. The clutch cable can be easily released from the grooved wheel at this point. Unbolt and remove the pedal box. 94-04 Pedal box assembly Computer  Socket set.  Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle. ...
Page 38: Gauge Cluster And Speedometer Cable
EEC-IV computer and cradle. EEC-V computer. Remove the kick panel in the passenger footbox. Disconnect the ground strap in the footbox next to the computer. Remove the computer and its plastic holder from the passenger footbox area. Gauge Cluster and Speedometer Cable ...
Page 39: Turn Signal And Ignition Switches
87-93 Mustang gauges mounted in gauge pod. Remove the two gauge wiring connectors from the gauge cluster by squeezing the outside clips. Remove the clear plastic gauge cover with a Torx screwdriver and discard. Place the switches and gauge pod in your parts area, awaiting kit assembly. Turn Signal and Ignition Switches ...
Page 40 96-04 Steering column (with ignition, turn signal stalk) Remove the steering column mounts located under the dash above the driver floor. Allow the column to fall down. Remove the wiring connectors have from the turn signal and ignition switches. Remove the turn signal stalk 96-04 Turn signal stalk.
Page 41: Dash Wiring Harness
Key and anti-theft module Dash Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Torx and Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Dash wiring harnesses, 96-04 traction control switch  The wiring comes out in stages. Keep the sub-assemblies together as they are removed. Remember to identify both ends of every connector that you disassemble.
Page 42: Front Wiring Harness
87-93 Dash harness with air bag and fuse panel attachments. Front Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Front wiring harnesses. Pull the rubber grommet out of the firewall into the engine bay. Remove the front light harness from the engine bay wall working from the starter solenoid area to the alternator.
Page 43: Speedometer And Clutch Cables
87-93 Front wiring harness with hookups for headlights, alternator, and horn. Speedometer and Clutch Cables  Socket set, duct tape.  Speedometer cable and sending unit, clutch cable. Pull the speedometer cable out from the dash area keeping the rubber grommet that is on it in place. This grommet will also get used.
Page 44: Shifter And Shifter Handle
Clutch cable and retainer circlip. Shifter and Shifter handle  Socket set, Phillips head screwdriver.  Shifter  The kit comes with new bolts for the shifter handle so you don’t need the OEM bolts. Save them anyway according to rule #85 of the car guys’ handbook which states “save any and all fasteners in rusty coffee cans”.
Page 45: Fuel Inertia Cut-Off Switch
Fuel Inertia cut-off switch  Socket set, nut driver, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters to cut plastic fasteners, marker pen, and tape.  Fuel inertia cut-off switch.  It is recommended that a fuel inertia cut-off switch be used in the car. Inertia cut-off switch.
Page 46: Exhaust
The transmission harness must be removed along with the rubber plug. This runs along the driver’s side of the transmission tunnel. Store the rear harness and transmission harness. Exhaust  ” socket, socket extension, ratchet, adjustable wrench, hack saw. Wrenches, ...
Page 47 Attach an engine hoist to the engine lift points at the driver’s front and passenger’s rear areas of the engine. One easy way to do this is with a chain and bolt on the other side of the hole. An alternative to this is to wrap chains through the back of the engine mounts and bolt the chain together for lifting.
Page 48: Front Suspension
2003 4.6L DOHC Engine and 3650 transmission There is an exhaust H-pipe tube holder plate sandwiched between the transmission mount and the transmission that must be removed. All you need is the transmission mount with the two bolts sticking down. Front Suspension ...
Page 49: Fuel Tank
Lower A-arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. Slowly lower the Jack and the strut assembly will come out of the body mount (sometimes violently) and allow the lower control arm to go down.
Page 50: Rear End
Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts. Raise the rear of the car and place on jack stands. Open the gas cap to relieve any pressure built up in the tank. Remove the screws that hold the upper fuel cap and flange to the body of the car. Remove the set screw and metal ring collar retainer from the fuel neck where it meets the tank.
Page 51: Fuel Filter And Connectors
Lower the jack slowly with the rear end so that they come down together. When the rear end has dropped down low enough, you can easily remove the coil springs and upper rubber spring mount. Save the rubber bushings above and below the springs. Remove the bolts and nuts from the lower rear Mustang control arm, where the arms are mounted to the body/chassis.
Page 52: Donor Part Preparation
96-98 Donor fuel system parts. Donor Part Preparation Rear Coil Springs  Hack saw or chop saw Rear coil spring. Remove the rubber tubular spacer from inside the coil. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 53: Rear End
Cut one full coil from the top of the spring for correct ride height setting. Cut the upper rubber spring seat so that during assembly of the kit, it will conform to the spring mount on the frame. This is done with one cut across the part. Do not replace these bushings with aftermarket silicone pieces, as these will allow the springs to slide since they contain a slippery release agent in them.
Page 54 Stock 94-04 front lower. If using the stock 94-04 front lower control arms, drill a ½” hole in the spring seat area shown in the picture below using the rear end shock mount as a guide for height. If the hole is drilled too low, you will have to clearance the middle of the spring area so the shock will not hit when installed.
Page 55 Drilled and modified front lower control arm. Attach the rear shock mount to the control arm through the hole in the spring seat with the small leg sticking up. Check clearance with the new shock and the new mount. These parts must move freely without contacting the control arm surface.
Page 56: Fuel Filter Fittings
Coil-over mounted in lower arm with clearance hole. Fuel Filter Fittings  Razor knife  Donor plastic fuel line fittings from fuel filter to body hard line and from return line from body hard line to fuel tank. Carefully with out damaging the plastic barb, cut the hard plastic off the plastic barbs. On 99-04 engines, cut the metal fuel line off the Fuel Pulse Dampener (disc shaped object in the fuel send line) on the inlet side.
Page 57: Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank  Pliers  Fuel Tank At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Fuel Filler Neck  Hack saw  Fuel Filler neck 87-98 - Cut the Mustang steel fuel neck in the mid-section after the 90...
Page 58 Uncut Filler Neck Cut Filler Neck 99-04 – Cut the donor filler neck just above the crimp line below the mounting flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 59: Brake Pedal
Cut the filler neck above the bend but below where the small fuel tubes attach to the side of the larger tube making sure to leave enough room to attach a fuel filler hose and hose clamp. Brake Pedal  Hack saw ...
Page 60: Accelerator Pedal
Cut the brake pedal between the mounting bolt and the master cylinder push rod attachment stud. Remove 1.5” from the middle and MIG weld the pedal back together. Make sure the top piece where the bolt is located is oriented correctly, as the spacer on each side of the pedal is different. Cut and welded pedal Accelerator Pedal Remove the plastic part of accelerator pedal by pushing out the pin.
Page 61: 87-93 Pedal Box
Trim the accelerator pedal as shown, just above the plastic pedal support pad. It is possible to mount the original plastic pedal piece onto the shortened pedal if desired. This can be accomplished by squeezing the bottom of the trimmed pedal and drilling a hole for the stock pin. 87-93 Pedal Box ...
Page 62: 1994-2004 Pedal Box
Mark the mounting face of the 1” up from the bottom of the mounting plate. Cut-off the marked area (bottom of the front mount flange) with a hack saw. This is necessary for steering shaft clearance. 1994-2004 Pedal Box  Drill, drill bits www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 63 Cut line Drill out the four spot welds on the front face of the pedal box. Cut off the lower corner of clutch quadrant stop shown in the picture for accelerator pedal clearance. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 64: Wiring Harness
Remove the brake pedal spring from its mount hole and remove the plate on the front of the pedal box along with the round spacers. Relocate brake pedal spring to pedal box triangular opening. Wiring Harness  Razor knife, electrical tape. ...
Page 65 Heater wires Air bag blue boxes and wires Electronic seat and window controls. Remote trunk release wires Not only does this take weight out of the car, it gives additional room behind the dash. Look at the plugs and compare them to a Chilton’s manual to make sure you are cutting the correct plug before actually cutting.
Page 66 Move the harness grommet backwards on the harness behind the short wiring “branch with the large rectangular plug on it. All of the remaining plugs should be pulled back behind the firewall plug. Rewrap the harness with electrical tape from where the grommet was back to the new grommet location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 67: 87-95 Brake Power Booster Push-Rod
87-95 Brake Power Booster Push-rod Remove the master cylinder from the power booster. The power brake assembly is changed to a manual brake assembly for this kit. This simple modification is done on many SCCA Mustangs for improved brake feel. In a 2,100 lb. car, the feedback is good and power brakes are not really necessary.
Page 68 87-95 - Bend the fuel lines away from the engine block just at the point where they are held in place by the retaining clips. This is so that the fuel does not travel near the hot header. Don’t make tight bends here or it will affect your fuel flow.
Page 69 96-04 Driver side manifold. 96-04 Passenger side manifold. Note the casting touches the block. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 70: Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation
96-04 - Install the headers, leave the header on the correct side of the engine but flip them over so that they point forward Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation  Cordless drill, ½” drill bit, needle nose pliers  Alternate drive pulley template ...
Page 71: 87-95 Transmission
Insert the spring pins back into the two front holes on the block. It may be helpful to put a dab of silicone to hold the pins in place until the bolts are installed. 87-95 Transmission  Hack Saw www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 72: Steering Rack
If you are running a T-5 Transmission, remove the casting tab with the hole in it that is sticking out on the passenger side with a hack saw. Steering Rack  ” and ⅝” wrenches, ruler, hack saw, marker. Remove the outer tie rods. Cut 1.75”...
Page 73: Intake Tube
Old style Cut half of the passenger side power steering mount off. ” drill bit. Drill a mounting hole in the bracket using a Intake Tube  The year and type of engine may give a different style intake tube. Similar modifications can be done to different styles.
Page 74: 96-04 Air Filter Housing
Uncut 1997 DOHC Cobra™ intake hose Cut the intake hose in the crease on the intake side of the bellow section marked in the picture. Make sure not to cut the large bellow section. 96-04 Air Filter Housing Unclamp the air filter housing from the Mass Air Meter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 75 Mark the housing around the base of the dome. Cut the flange off the housing. Keep in mind, the flange is the part you want to keep. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 76: Cleaning And Detailing
Re-assemble the air filter and cut flange clamping them together with the stock clamp. Cleaning and Detailing  Before you start assembling your car, cleaning is the best way to assess what needs to be done to the donor parts. Based on your close-up inspection you may choose to re-build or replace some of the parts that you have just removed.
Page 77: Not Using A Donor
 Wait until the wiring harness is installed and the car is running before you cover the harness up with a nice wrapping of electrical tape. If it’s dirty, wipe it off gently with a moist (not wet) rag.  Use common sense when cleaning these parts; don’t use a wire wheel on a drill close to any wires or lines.
Page 78: Disassembly Of The Kit
Chapter Disassembly of the kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 79: Unpacking Your Kit
Unpacking Your Kit  Boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
Page 80: Body Removal
Body Removal  ⅝” socket, Ratchet, ⅝” wrench, gloves, 2 friends.  Be careful of the raw fiberglass edges, they can splinter into your skin Unbolt the door from the hinge leaving the hinge attached to the chassis. Cut the zip ties in the door latch area.
Page 81 Unbolt the body sides from the chassis on the underside of the car. Unbolt the Quick Jacks and remove the body. Two people can do this but it is much easier with a third person to pull the sides clear of the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 82: Aluminum Removal
When you store the body on the ground (unsupported) for long periods of time you may get slight distortion (bowing) around the walls forward of the doors. In order to avoid the chance of this happening, we recommend putting two short 2”x 4” braces (24” long) under the windshield holes (running vertically to support the hood cowl area just forward of the doors under the windshield holes).
Page 83 Using a marker outline the underside of each panel where it contacts the chassis. This is done to locate where to drill rivet holes when the panels are permanently mounted later on. Mark each panel and take pictures of how the panels fit together (i.e. which is on top). Remove each panel after it has been marked until the chassis is bare.
Page 84 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 85 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 86 Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move things around. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 87: Chassis Assembly
Chapter Chassis Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 88: Rivet Spacing Tool
Rivet Spacing Tool  Packaged Aluminum  In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
Page 89 The “F” shaped aluminum panels that mount behind the suspension are mounted first. Locate them and mark your rivet pattern in the location you traced. ” bit then clean the marker lines and labeling off using acetone or brake Drill the panels using a cleaner.
Page 90 Apply silicone to the panel or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact. ” rivet holes through the panel holes into Use the original #6 screws to remount the panel then drill the the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 91: Front Suspension
” short rivets, then remove the screws and replace them with rivets. Rivet the panel in place using Repeat for the other side. Front Suspension Front lower control arm  ⅞” socket, ” wrenches, Torque wrench  Mustang lower control arms and fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 92: Front Upper Control Arm
87-93 - Mount the lower control arms using the outer set of holes on the chassis using the supplied hardware. 94-04 - stock lower control arms, use the inner set of bolt holes. FFR tubular lower control arms - use the outer mounting holes. While holding the control arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft).
Page 93 Put thread locker on the upper balljoint threads. Screw the upper ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 94 Tighten the balljoint using the arm for leverage with a Vice holding the ball joint. Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 95: Pivot Endplay
Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the grease fittings pointed up. Use the mount holes that are horizontal on the top of the 2”x 3” tube, not the side vertical ones. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). ...
Page 96: Front Coil-Over Shock Assembly
Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm. After you have adjusted the arm to the desired length, tighten down the jam nuts against the adjusting tubes, and then tighten each of the three pivot bolts.
Page 97 Unpack the front shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
Page 98 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
Page 99 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Pass the shock assembly (with the body of the shock up) through the upper control arm and attach them to the lower control arm using the 0.43”...
Page 100: Spindles
Fasten the shock to the top mount with the fasteners and 0.675” spacers provided and torque both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Spindles  ” socket, Torque wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet  IFS components, Mustang Spindles. Make sure the grease boot is in place on the lower balljoint then mount the spindle to the lower control arm.
Page 101 Using the 87-93 spindles, use the hole closest to the ball joint and the third hole down. Using a 94-04 Spindles, attach the bracket using the bottom and third hole up so that the ball joint is further away from the spindle.
Page 102: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart
 The upper ball joint boot will look crushed and out of shape when the car is in the air, this is OK. The boot will seat when the car is on the ground. Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Front lower control arm to frame 135-162...
Page 103: Front Brakes
94-04 Front Brakes Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 104 Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 105: Solid Axle Rear Suspension
Solid Axle Rear Suspension  Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. Solid Axle Preparation  ¾” sockets, ¾” wrench, ½” drill bit, drill, floor jack, jack stands, Torque Wrench  8.8” Rear axle assembly, Solid axle adapters/hardware Box, Mustang lower control arms. ...
Page 106 If not already done, fill the axle with gear oil. See Appendix for specifications and capacities. If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti vibration weight under the pinion. 87-98 Axle – Drill the lower control arm holes out with a ½” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 107 ” drill bit. 99-04 Axle - Drill the lower control arm holes out with a Position the Traction Lok brackets on the rear end with the bolts provided (the two short bolts go on the sides). Axle Bracket Driver's Side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 108 Axle Bracket Passenger Side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 109 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to Ford Specs 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lb-ft)  The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. ...
Page 110: Spring Perch Mounts
Spring Perch mounts  ½” drill bit, drill, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet  Rear spring perches, Mustang springs and rubber isolator mounts Hold the spring perches up to the frame so the vertical perch mount is in between the 2”x 3” tube and the vertical frame mount.
Page 111: Optional 3 Link Rear Suspension
 Skip the 3 Link section and continue on with the rear axle section. Optional 3 Link Rear Suspension  ”, ⅜”, ½” drill bits, ⅝”, ¾”, ”, 1” wrenches, ⅜”, ⅝”, ¾”, ” sockets, ” Hex key, Ratchet, Torque Wrench, Drill, Ruler/Tape measure, Pliers, Flat head Screwdriver, Tin Snips/scissors/razor, Marker.
Page 112 Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½” drill bit through the remaining bolt holes. Attach the upper link bracket onto the axle using the fine hardware (FFR# 12217 &...
Page 113 The front attachment of the upper link axle mount attaches to the hole on the flange section of the pumpkin. This hole has some variance and may need to be drilled out from the bottom side using the mount as a guide. Attach the front of the upper link axle mount to the front axle flange.
Page 114 Upper Link Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link.
Page 115: Rear Axle Installation
Rear Axle Installation  Have someone help with this step, the rear axle is very heavy and mistakes can result in serious injury. Use a floor jack to position the rear axle assembly under the frame.  Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the 4” round tube as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted ...
Page 116 With one person holding a side of the axle, raise the axle so that the lower control arms can be bolted onto the frame. Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts. Jack the rear axle up. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 117: Optional 3-Link Panhard Bar Frame Mount
If using a 4 link, attach the upper control arms to the frame. If using a 3 Link, attach the upper link to the frame. Optional 3-link Panhard Bar Frame mount  The Panhard bar frame mount is mounted to the chassis during shipping www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 118 With the axle jacked up, attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet.
Page 119 For the front mount, use a ½” drill bit and drill through the sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is away from the side of the 2”x 3” tube so that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom of the tube.
Page 120: Panhard Bar
Panhard Bar The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ⅝”x 3” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the passenger side traction lock bracket. Three spacers are used in the front (2) 0.375" (FFR# 14064) and (1) 0.25"...
Page 121: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart
Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached.
Page 122: Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly
Optional Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet, ruler, marker, hack saw.  Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit  The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired.
Page 123 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it.
Page 124 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock.
Page 125 Attach the body end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length (1.09”) spacers. Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole.
Page 126 Driver Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts.
Page 127 Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 128: Rear Shocks
Rear shocks  Torque wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, 15mm wrench  Mustang vertical shocks, quad shocks, quad shock brackets, Quad shock fasteners assembly, rear spring perches, rear traction Lok brackets/fasteners. Attach the rear vertical shocks at the top through the holes in the plates located in the trunk area using the Mustang rubber bushings and fasteners.
Page 129 Driver Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs. Check for shock clearance on brake lines, emergency brake cables, brake calipers, frame and axle parts.
Page 130: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart
Tighten the bolts on the quad shock brackets. 4 link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Upper control arm to axle 101-111 75-82 Upper control arm to frame 101-111 75-82 Lower control arm to axle 101-111 75-82 Lower control arm to frame 101-111 75-82 Upper Mustang shock to frame...
Page 131: Optional Independent Rear Suspension - Standard Width
Optional Independent Rear Suspension – Standard width  L&R lower control arms, L&R upper control arms, Toe arms, L&R CV axles, Koni coil-over shocks, Springs, Fasteners, Driveshaft adapter  ” Drill bit, ”, ” wrenches, ”, ” 18mm Sockets, Large Philips head screwdriver, adjustable wrench –...
Page 132: Mustang Irs Specifications
Mustang IRS Specifications 2.3L Ecoboost 3.7L V6 5.0L Coyote Housing Steel Aluminum Steel Weight 93lb 78lb 93lb Gear Ratios 3.15:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 13.0" (330mm)Vented rotor, 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston iron Brakes...
Page 133 Mark the spindle starting at the top just to the inside of the top inside hole down to the corner of the small boss at the bottom of the ear. Use a saw to cut the ear off the spindle. If using a Sawzall or similar, use a wood blade; a 14tpi blade or finer will just get gummed up with the aluminum.
Page 134 Hubs  Hammer, vise, ratchet, ½”-20 lugnut, torque wrench.  Rear wheel studs.  Removal of the hub from the spindle is not necessary but can make things easier. Use a vise to lightly hold the side of the wheel stud head then use a hammer to bang out the Mustang studs.
Page 135 Insert one of the included wheel studs into the hub from the back and use a washer and lug nut on the front side. Use a ratchet to draw the wheel stud into the hub and torque the stud to 135Nm (100lb-ft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 136 Repeat for the other wheel studs. If the Hub was removed, use Loctite on the threads and reattach to the spindle. Torque the bolts to 133Nm (98ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 137 Center section  ” drill bit, drill. ” drill bit to chase the front mount holes on the center section. Use a Frame  Rubber/plastic mallet  Differential mounting components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 138 Bushing locations. ”) sleeves Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2048 and the longer (3 where the front of the center section will mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 139 Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2123 and the shorter (2.40”) sleeves where the rear of the center section will mount. Upper control arms  Upper control arm components  Grease gun www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 140 Assemble each of the upper control arms as shown. Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves. Lower control arms  Grease gun Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves.
Page 141: Installation
Toe adjustment arms Assemble each of the toe adjustment arms as shown. Installation Center section  ” sockets, ” wrench. Rubber/plastic mallet, torque wrench, 18mm,  Differential mounting components.  Use a friend to help with the heavy center section in the next steps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 142 Use rags to protect between the front center section mount on the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 143 With the help of a friend, lift the center section nose up into the frame and over the front mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 144 Flatten the center section out so it is horizontal then back it up so it is above the mount locations and lower it down so the bolts can be installed. The smaller/shorter bolts are used for the rear mounts. The larger/longer bolts and nuts are used for the front mounts. Torque both the front and rear bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb).
Page 145 Center section Vent  Pliers, wire cutters, hammer  Vent hose, vent nipple, insulated clips, secondary body fasteners. Remove the plug at the top of the rear cover. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 146 Use a hammer on the end of the barb to put the nipple in the rear cover. Push the 12.00” piece of ” fuel hose onto the barb. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 147 Run the hose up to the 1” tube that goes across the back of the IRS and use one of the kit ” insulated ” rivet to hold it in place. clips and Toe Adjustment arms  IRS Toe adjustment arm components ...
Page 148 ” thick spacer in the back Attach the toe arms to the frame below the front lower arm mount using the and the ¼” spacer on the front side of the rod end. Use the ” x 2.25” bolts to attach them to the frame. Torque bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb).
Page 149 Attach the control arms to the frame with the shock mount towards the rear and spindle brackets up. ”) bolts. Use the longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). Upper control arms ...
Page 150 Pass the upper control arm thick tube through the triangular area as shown in between the frame mounts. ”) bolts. Use the longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). CV Axle ...
Page 151 Using the correct axle, push the inner CV joint into the center section.  ” (~3mm) gap between the inside of the CV joint and When fully installed there should be an the center section. If necessary, compress the CV axle and with the CV axle nut on the end hit the CV axle in with a plastic mallet.
Page 152 Slide the spindle onto the outer CV joint and start the nut on the end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 153 Spindle to Lower arm Connect the bottom of the spindle to the lower control arm using the M16 x 90mm bolts and locknuts. Right side shown. Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 154 Spindle to Upper arm Insert the angled mount adapter into the upper arm rod end. ” x 3.50” bolt and locknut. Attach the upper control arm to the spindle using the Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 155 Toe Link Attach the Toe link arm to the spindle using the M14 x 80mm bolt and locknut. Repeat for the right hand side. Use the torque specifications page at the back of the instructions to torque the control arm to spindle bolts.
Page 156 Unpack the shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
Page 157 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
Page 158 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Attach the rod end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length 1.09” kit spacers. Torque the upper shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb).
Page 159 Jack the spindle up so the body end of the shocks can be mounted on the shock mount on the control arm using the longer 1.09” spacer on the back and ” spacer in front of the shock. Torque the lower shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb). Remove the floor jack.
Page 160 Apply Loctite to the (6) M10 x 25mm socket head screws. Attach the driveshaft adapter to the center section pinion flange and torque the bolts in a star pattern to 55Nm (41 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 161: Fluids
Insert the driveshaft into the transmission, bolt the rear flange to the driveshaft adapter and torque the bolts to 109Nm (80 ft-lb). Fluids Name Specification Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) EST-M2C118-A Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL WSS-M2C942-A Fill the rear axle with fluids.
Page 162: Alignment Specs
Alignment specs Camber: -0.5to -0.75° Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in Torque Specifications LB-FT CENTER SECTION TO FRAME FRONT CENTER SECTION TO FRAME REAR BRAKE CALIPER TO CALIPER BRACKET BRAKE CALIPER BRACKET TO SPINDLE BRAKE HOSE BANJO BOLT TO CALIPER LOWER CONTROL ARM TO FRAME LOWER CONTROL ARM TO SPINDLE TOE LINK TO FRAME TOE LINK TO SPINDLE...
Page 163: E-Brake Cables
E-brake cables Make sure the FFR cables go through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 164: Wilwood Brake Routing
Wilwood brake routing Run the left e-brake cable over the top of the center section and left rear mount then down and over to the brake caliper. Run the right cable over the center section and right rear mount then down and over to the brake caliper. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 165: Wilwood E-Brake Adapter
Wilwood e-brake adapter Insert the cable end into the bent bracket then bolt the bracket to the e-brake lever. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 166: Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum
Make sure to run the other end of the brake cables under the 4” crossmember and connect them to the e- brake handle and adjust. Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum  ” drill bit, rivet tool, caulk gun, silicone Drill, ...
Page 167 Rivet the firewall in position on the chassis. Mark, drill, and rivet in place the driver’s side footbox front panel, leave the lower section that attaches to the ¾” tube un-siliconed and un-riveted for the inside wall to slip underneath later. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 168: Pedal Box
Pedal Box  ⅜”, ” sockets, ”, ” hex key, drill, ” wrench, ⅛”, ¼”, ” drill bits, silicone, rivet tool, marker.  Mustang pedal box, pedal box hardware, cockpit aluminum. 87-93 Pedal Box www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 169 Position the Mustang pedal box on the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, and attach using two short ⅜” bolts and two washers to the front wall at the front of the foot box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 170 There are four holes on the Mustang pedal assembly on top of the ¾” tubing. Mark these holes on the tubes. The right hole for the master cylinder must also be marked on the pedal box. Use the laser cut hole in the foot box steel as a guide to mark the Mustang pedal box.
Page 171 Drill ¼” holes completely through the ¾” tubing for the pedal box. ” drill bit to drill the bolt hole in the pedal box for the master cylinder bolt. Use a Trim the corner off the pedal box using a Hacksaw. The front foot box aluminum panel can now be siliconed and riveted in place with the ⅛”...
Page 172: 94-04 Pedal Box
Reinstall the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox; use the ¼”x 1.50” screws from the pedal box fastener assembly with a fender washer next to the head. Leave all the hardware hand tight. 94-04 Pedal Box Position the Mustang pedal box over the two angled ¾” tubes over the driver’s feet, the clutch pedal goes to the left of the tubes and the brake pedal goes between the tubes.
Page 173: Accelerator Cable
Install the pedal box with the two ⅜” bolts and washers at the top as before. They go through existing holes in the front of the foot box. Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, wire cutters. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 174: 87-93 Fuel Injected And Carbureted Applications
 Pedal box hardware, Accelerator cable components.  The cable design is set up for a 96-04 4.6L Mustang engine with an OEM pedal but using the supplied ball studs and retainers it can be adapted for all applications. 87-93 Fuel Injected and Carbureted Applications Using a ruler and marker measure and mark 2⅝”...
Page 175: 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications
” locknut on the cable sheath inside the foot box using two ½” wrenches. Screw on and tighten the  The engine end will get installed later. 94-04 Fuel Injected Applications Loosen the nut on the engine end of the accelerator cable with the cylinder slug on the end. Put the accelerator cable in the stock accelerator bracket slot on the engine intake.
Page 176 Accelerator cable mounted on ‘98 4 valve intake. Accelerator cable mounted on ’96 2 valve intake. Run the cable from the mount plate, tightly against the intake and over to the driver’s foot box front panel. Insert the pedal end of the cable into the foot box. ”...
Page 177: Accelerator Pedal
Cut the accelerator pedal capture in the corner using a pair of wire cutters. Slip the accelerator cable through the cut so that the ball will sit in the recess. Push the capture into the end of the throttle pedal. Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it.
Page 178 Loosely mount the flange bearing to the footbox front with the set screw toward the inside of the footbox. Both sides of the flange mount to the front side of the footbox plate. Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis with the set screw toward the rear of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 179: Steering Rack
Slide the steering shaft into the footbox from the engine bay through the lower bearing.  87-93 Power steering racks have a different spline than a manual steering rack and the 94-04 Power rack uses a “Pyramid” shaped end. All of these lower adapters are available from FFR. Steering Rack ...
Page 180 87-93 steering rack and fasteners (hydraulic lines removed). If not already in, insert the stock rubber bushings and kit spacer sleeves into the rack. Pull back the rubber boot on the inner tie rod and remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack. Line up the steering shaft and adapter and push the rack onto the steering shaft.
Page 181 Bolt the rack into the frame. It is easier to do the driver side first then swing the passenger side down into the mount. Use thread locker on all of the steering shaft screws that do not have jam nuts and the adapter screws. ...
Page 182  If using the power rack and you have not already done this in the donor prep stage, cut 1.75” off the end of the inner tie rod. Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack and attach the steering rack extension to the steering rack using a 1.50”...
Page 183 94-04 - Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack extension and attach the new inner tie rods to the steering rack. Push the boot back onto the steering rack body and attach with zip ties. The track of the FFR Roadster front end is a little narrower than the Mustang.
Page 184: Upper Steering Shaft
Steering rack installed. Upper steering shaft  ”, ”, ” hex keys, ½” wrench, rubber mallet  Steering system hardware Unpack the upper steering shaft from the primary chassis components box. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 185 Slide the steering shaft through the upper bearing and start it in the lower shaft. Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 186: Cockpit Aluminum
Tighten the upper and lower bearings. Also tighten the set screw on the upper shaft. Cockpit Aluminum  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, rivet tool, Silicone, caulking gun, #8 self tapping screws, #8 hex nut driver, ruler, marker, Acetone or carburetor cleaner, rags. ...
Page 187: Passenger Footbox
Passenger Footbox Locate the passenger footbox top and drill and mark the holes in the top flat surface only. Silicone this panel where it meets the chassis and rivet along the bottom of the 2” square frame crossbar only. Use one of the original screws to temporarily hold it to the other small chassis tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 188 Drill the tunnel front A-shaped piece where it meets the chassis and silicone and rivet it in place. Mark and drill the two vertical edges of the passenger footbox inside wall. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 189 Silicone and rivet the panel to the front tunnel “A” and the footbox top. Mark the holes in the passenger footbox front panel upper and outer edges but do not drill yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 190 Silicone the panel and install with the temporary screws then drill through both panels and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 191 Mark and drill all three flanges on the passenger outer footbox top. Silicone the flange between the outer top and the outer wall and attach the two pieces together using the temporary screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 192: Passenger Floor
Silicone the remaining flanges then install the outer wall/top on the footbox with rivets. Make sure the rear edge is flush to the chassis and not caught up on the door hinge before you start riveting. Passenger Floor Drill the passenger side floor where it was marked to attach to the chassis. Mark the two front flanges but do not drill yet.
Page 193 Silicone the chassis where the aluminum floor will touch. The main chassis rails are not riveted to but still need a bead of silicone run along the tops. The top edge of the tunnel is not riveted yet but gets silicone as well.
Page 194: Driver Floor
Drill, silicone, and rivet the right side under door piece in place. Leave the rivets out of the rear vertical flange for now. Driver Floor Drill silicone and install the driver’s footbox floor. The outer flange does not get drilled yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 195 Silicone, drill, and install the driver side floor. Install the left side under door aluminum like the right side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 196: U-Joint Cover
Drill, silicone and install the inner footbox wall. The front flange tucks in behind the front wall that was left unriveted. Put a little silicone on both sides of this flange. U-Joint Cover Mark the rear tunnel cover where it meets the chassis then silicone and rivet it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 197: Transmission Tunnel Rear Corners
Transmission Tunnel rear corners The inner rear corner pieces tuck behind the tunnel sides and sit on top of the floor. Mark the rivet spacing on the top edge and silicone and rivet the three flanges that make contact. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 198: Cockpit Rear Corners
Cockpit rear corners The outer cockpit corners get marked on the bottom flange and where they meet the chassis. Drill silicone and rivet these in place. Fuel System Fuel Tank  ” deep socket, ratchet, hammer, ” hex key, floor jack, friend. ...
Page 199 Unpack the fuel strap fasteners. Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 200 Push the four plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front and behind the gas tank. 87-93 - Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the passenger side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 201 94-04 - Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The Strap with both flat ends goes on the passenger side (shown). Using a jack, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. Make sure the plastic cover is in position below the tank.
Page 202 Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack. Tighten only the driver’s side strap as the passenger one will be removed for aluminum fitment later on. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 203: Fuel Filter
Fuel Filter  ”drill bit, drill, rivet tool, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver, ” Tube bender, wrenches  Insulated clip hardware, Fuel line components, ¼”, ” fuel lines, Mustang Fuel filter and mount, Mustang tank to filter nylon hose, Mustang fuel vapor hose. ...
Page 204: Fuel Lines
Fuel Lines Unpack the fuel lines and the fuel line assembly which is in the secondary chassis components box.  ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then The larger there is ¼”...
Page 205  The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine.  The most important things are: To route the lines so that they are protected by the chassis; not close to any heat source or moving parts;...
Page 206  Which side you run down may depend on where you are hooking up to your fuel rail, carburetor, or pressure regulator. We usually run the fuel lines on the passenger side of the car and the brake lines on the driver side of the car. Fasten the lines to the 2”x 2”...
Page 207: Brake System
If you are going to use the mustang Fuel vapor line, run it along with the other fuel lines. Brake System  ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, rivet gun, marker, tape measure, razor knife, round file or Tube bender, ” hex key, ½”, ”...
Page 208: Manual Brake Master Cylinder And Pushrod
Manual Brake Master Cylinder and pushrod Use the ⅜”x 2” bolts provided to mount the master cylinder and spacers to the footbox front wall. The number of spacers used dictates the height of the brake pedal. Start with one spacer unless you are 6’ or taller then use more.
Page 209 Tighten all of the mounting bolts for the pedal box and master cylinder. Install the push rod from the power booster into the master cylinder and insert the white plastic bushing in the ring end. Hold the rod between the two ears of the brake light switch and slide it over the brake pedal post. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 210: 96-04 Brake Hydro-Booster And Master Cylinder
Put the clip through the hole in the pedal so that the push rod will not come off. Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis.  If you plan to race frequently, use some small springs and attach them to the brake pedal and pedal box to prevent the pedal from moving during severe acceleration.
Page 211: Front Flexible Brake Lines
Put the clip through the hole in the pedal so that the push rod will not come off. Front flexible brake lines Unpack the hardware from the brake line components. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 212 Lay out the various lengths of brake line so you can see what you have to work with. Like the fuel lines, there are many ways to run these lines but you must be very careful to keep them protected from moving parts, heat, or being to close to the bottom of the car.
Page 213: Hard Brake Lines
Push the brake line adapters through the brackets from the outside in and install the clips that hold them in place. If removed, attach the front brake line to the caliper making sure there is a crush-washer on either side of the fitting.
Page 214 From the distribution block, run one of the longer 60” brake lines over to the passenger side brake hose mount. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it. ” rivets to hold it in place. When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and Use a long 60”...
Page 215 Use a union to attach a second 60” brake line. Run the brake line up the back of the 2”x 3” tube.  At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-95 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers.
Page 216 Using the FFR rear brakes, we attached the flexible brake line mount to the driver side diagonal ¾” tube with the brake line clip. Attach the “T” adapter to the flexible brake line and route the hard brake line coming from the front to the “T”.
Page 217 Run a 60” brake line from the “T” up the ¾” tube to the front fuel tank mount tubes and over to the passenger side ¾” tube. An alternative to running it this way would be to run it across the backside of the 2”x 3”...
Page 218: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs
Attach the hard brake line to the flexible brake line.  Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Tighten the banjo bolts on the calipers Banjo bolt torque specs 87-95 Front Brake hose to caliper Banjo bolt –...
Page 219: Rear Harness
manuals for the model year you are using are invaluable. They cost between $30-$55 ea. but are well worth the money. www.helminc.com  If you did not take the harness out of the car yourself, when connecting the plugs together, check the wire colors going into and out of the plugs to make sure that they line up and are the same color.
Page 220 Use the inertia cut-off switch as a template and drill two holes in the trunk aluminum on the far corner of the driver’s side. Mount the inertia fuel cut-off switch on the inside. Run (2) wires (using the blue wire extensions in the misc. electrical components) from the left rear, side marker light, up through the roll bar rear leg hole to be used for the license plate light.
Page 221: Transmission Harness
Transmission Harness Push the harness plugs through the hole in the driver's side floor aluminum. Run the harness forward into the corner to the ¾” tube at the foot box front. Then go up and along the angled ¾” tube to its connector. Make sure that it does not get in the way of the accelerator pedal. Use the drilled holes and the zip tie trick to keep the harness in the corner along the floor.
Page 222: Headlight Harness
Headlight Harness 87-93 Headlight harness. 87-95 - The headlight harness is started at the alternator and runs forward to the passenger headlight area, then goes under the fan shroud to the driver’s side headlight area and then rearward to the coil and starter relay area.
Page 223 96-04 - Mount the engine bay fuse box using the stock mount in the front driver side corner of the engine bay to the “X” leaving room for the Hood Pin or Hood Hinge mount and the Power steering reservoir. The Mustang is wider than the FFR Roadster in front and there is extra wiring between the headlights.
Page 224: 87-95 Dash Harness
87-95 Dash Harness The dash harness begins at the coil area and goes rearward to the large hole in the front of the driver’s side foot box. The key to routing the dash harness is to start on the inside of the foot box and push the smaller items through the large hole from the inside.
Page 225: Starter Solenoid
Run the harness over the pedal box and through the large hole in the firewall. Dash harness going through laser cut hole. The dash harness can then be run on top of the 2”x 2” square tube over to the computer side. Run everything loosely so that final positioning can be done.
Page 226 Old Starter New Starter www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 227: 96-04 Dash Harness
When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel (Use the diagram in Appendix A to determine the correct shape) to the 2”x 2” dash hoop support and between the two ¾” x ¾” frame tubes in the driver’s side footbox using the aluminum bracket provided and a few of the self-tapping screws. Leave the headlight and hazard switches hanging for now.
Page 228 Dash wiring showing computer mounted on the passenger side of the firewall. Either modify the dash harness as described in the donor parts modification section at the beginning of the manual or cut a hole in the top outer footbox panel for the rectangular plug so the conical rubber bushing does not need to be cut.
Page 229 Run the harness over the pedal box and steering shaft and through the large slot in the firewall. The connectors for the rest of the harness easily fit through this hole and the big rubber grommet on the harness press fits into the laser cut hole. Attach the rectangular plug to the other harness.
Page 230 When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel (Use the diagram in Appendix A to determine the correct shape) to the 2”x 2” dash hoop support and between the two ¾” x ¾” frame tubes in the driver’s side footbox using the aluminum bracket provided and a few of the self-tapping screws. The headlight switch can either be mounted in the dash to the left or right of the steering wheel, next to the ignition or using the stock bracket, mount it to the 87-93 headlight switch mount bracket so that it sticks vertically down under the dash.
Page 231: 87-95 Engine Harness
Attach the PATS module pigtail to the dash harness and zip-tie the ignition cylinder assembly to the dash harness. 87-95 Engine Harness www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 232 Silicone and rivet the dash extension in position. The engine harness begins in the passenger foot box. The computer plug is pushed through the oval shaped hole on the Firewall extension from the engine bay side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 233 Attach the computer to the underside of the top of the passenger foot box using the plastic bracket from the Mustang and the screws provided. Alternatively the computer can be mounted to the inside of the firewall if the optional heater/defroster is not being used. Use the drilled holes and cable tie trick to hold the extra harness to the top of the passenger foot box.
Page 234 Attach the computer connectors to the starter solenoid and the ground to the backside of the solenoid against the ¾” tubing. The ground looks like a female stereo jack (sort of). The other half of the connector is on the battery negative cable, so just cut the connector off and use the ring connector. 96-04 Harness The harness splits into two on top of the passenger foot box.
Page 235 Run the other larger bundle forward to the front of the frame. Connectors shown at the front of the footbox are not needed Using the fuel pump resistor as a template, hold it against the firewall and mark the firewall where the mount hole and tab hole.
Page 236: Gauge Pod Installation
Attach the constant control relay to the top of the passenger footbox using ⅛” rivets. Gauge Pod Installation  Wire stripper, crimping tool, electrical tape, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, hack saw, ”, ” drill bits, drill, small Torx screwdriver. razor knife, marker, ...
Page 237 Remove the Mustang gauges from the white gauge pod with a small Torx screwdriver. Cut the locating pins for the gauges off the white gauge pod with a hack saw so that the pod will lie flush against the firewall when mounted. ”...
Page 238: Ignition And Turn Signal Stalk
With a razor knife, cut the other end of the blue plastic on the female blue butt connectors that overhangs so that the metal part is flush with the end of the connector. This will give more contact area for the gauges to grab. Push the male bullet connectors on the wire extensions into the enlarged holes on the gauge pod so that they are tight.
Page 239: Trunk Aluminum
Mount the turn signal stalk with the stalk pointed towards the seat as high as possible between the plate steel that also holds the windshield and the vertical ¾” tubing next to it. The switch spans the gap. Use two 1” screws and a ”...
Page 240 With the rear taillight harness tied up and secure, silicone and install the lower trunk floor. Re-install the gas tank strap and tighten. Silicone and install the trunk inner corner pieces. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 241 Silicone and rivet the fuel tank strap patch panel from the packaged aluminum assembly. Drill and silicone the upper trunk floor. Bend it in the middle to get it into position. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 242 Work the corners of the panel down over the roll bar mounts and seat harness tabs a little at a time on each side. Once the panel lies flat, finish rivet it into place. The rivets along the front 2”x 3” tube should be close to the back as possible for drill and rivet gun access.
Page 243: Cockpit Rear Wall
Cockpit rear wall Mark and drill the rear cockpit wall. Silicone the chassis and aluminum flanges where it attaches and rivet it into place. Battery Mounting and Cable  Drill, 1” hole saw, ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, rivet gun, marker, ”...
Page 244 Unpack the Battery mounting kit. Position the battery with mounting bracket in the trunk for mounting. It is centered side to side with just enough room for the mounting bracket between it and the front of the trunk. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 245 Drop the J-bolts in the mounting holes and mark where they hit the trunk floor. Drill the ¼” mounting holes in the floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 246 Hook the j-bolts through the floor and bolt the battery down. Hold the j-bolts with a vice grip and be careful not to over tighten and crack or distort the battery. Remove the powder coating from the small circle in the trunk closer to the ground terminal of your battery.
Page 247 Drill through the center of the circle and put a washer down in the cut out. Bolt the Mustang ground cable to the chassis, leave the battery terminal off for now while the rest of the system is being routed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 248 Drill out the hole you didn’t use for the ground with a 1” hole saw. Install one of the grommets in the hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 249 Route the small end of the batter cable from through the floor from the top and hook to the battery terminal. Attach the battery positive terminal and leave enough slack to be able to remove the terminal easily. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 250: Drivetrain Preparation
Cover the remaining positive cable that runs underneath the car with the provided conduit to protect it from the elements. Drivetrain Preparation  If installing a Coyote engine, call or check our parts catalog online for install instructions.  Aftermarket TKO 500 and TKO 600 prep ...
Page 251: 99-04 Transmission Mount
Trim off the unused mounting boss on the bottom of the case. Trim it flush or just below the pad for the transmission mount. 99-04 Transmission mount  Transmission mount Adapter (FFR# 13969). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 252 If using a 99-04 engine, the Transmission mount adapter bracket shown and provided in the kit must be used when using the stock transmission mount. Drill the rivets out of the stock mount. ” from the adapter Locate the stock mount on the adapter so that the bottom edge of the mount is plate.
Page 253: 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley
Bolt the transmission side of the mount to the bracket provided as shown. 99-04 Transmission mount on the adapter Bracket. 87-93 Alternate Drive Pulley  ¾” socket, ¾” wrench.  Alternate drive pulley components (FFR# 11080)  If you are using under-drive pulleys or eliminating the smog pump do not drill the A/C bracket according to the diagram.
Page 254 Place a washer onto the bolt. Place the pulley wheel on the bolt. Place the aluminum sleeve on the bolt with the flange towards the pulley wheel, so that it slides inside the pulley. Install the bolt assembly on the A/C bracket (previously drilled in the disassembly section), using the lock nut provided.
Page 255: 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator
Check the pulley wheel for alignment with the other pulleys so that premature belt wear does not occur. With one eye, carefully align the front side of the pulley with the front side of the other pulleys. If the new pulley is not lined up properly and is too far in, use the arbor shims included with the kit to go between the aluminum sleeve and the pulley wheel, effectively pushing the assembly outwards.
Page 256 Use Teflon tape on the threaded barbs and thread them into the oil filter relocator. Thread the short end of the threaded nipple into the relocator. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 257: 96-04 A/C Eliminator Kit
Mark the hole locations for the oil filter relocator on the old AC bracket or on the front frame X member (preferred location). If you’re going to mount the relocate bracket on the X member. Drill the mounting holes for the relocator. ...
Page 258 Place the aluminum sleeve on the bolt with the flange towards the pulley wheel, so that it slides inside the pulley. Attach the pulley to the bracket to using the included ½” bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 259 Attach the A/C eliminator bracket to the engine. Use double washers for the two front bolts that have the sleeves in the holes. Pull the tension pulley back using a Ratchet in the square hole and install the serpentine belt using the picture for reference if using power steering.
Page 260 If not using power steering, use the following picture for routing. 96-98 DOHC Belt routing without power steering. 99-03 DOHC Serpentine belt routed on engine using power steering. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 261: 96-04 Heater Bypass Hose
96-04 Heater bypass hose Use the heater bypass hose provided to loop between the inlet and outlet on the back of the engine. 96-04 Oil pan  ” deep socket, ”, ½” wrenches.  If you are installing aftermarket gauges, some of the gauge sending units will need to be changed.
Page 262  The easiest method to install the drivetrain is with the engine and transmission already bolted together and lowered in as a unit. Also remove anything that will make your job easier (shifter assembly, headers, power steering pump, etc…). Lower the engine and transmission into place. The more hands you have to help the better. Go very slowly and make sure the transmission tail-shaft is above the rear cross-member.
Page 263: Transmission Mount
Install the engine mount to chassis nuts and tighten down all the engine mount hardware. Make sure the alignment pins on the mounts are in the holes on the chassis pads. Transmission Mount  ” hex key, ”, ¾” socket, ratchet, ¾” wrench, floor jack ...
Page 264 Unpack the A-frame transmission mount and hardware. Jack the transmission up and mount the a-frame underneath it. Normally this mounts above the frame tabs but can be mounted underneath if extra clearance is needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 265: Driveshaft
Install the bolts that hold the transmission to the mount and tighten all the hardware on the mount and a- frame. Driveshaft  14mm wrench, thread locker  Mustang driveshaft and fasteners If not already done, the driveshaft should be shortened to the length specified in the appendix for the engine/transmission combination being used.
Page 266 Slip the shortened driveshaft up into the rear of the transmission. The most room to do this is usually to hold the shaft just above the center section and come in from the driver’s side. The mustang driveshaft bolts should have thread locker on them already. If thread locker is not there, put a small bead on each bolt.
Page 267: 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator
Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten. 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator  Razor knife, flathead screwdriver  Oil filter relocating kit, oil, oil filter Hook the oil lines up to the Oil filter Relocator and the adapter on the engine.
Page 268: Headers And J-Pipes
Headers and J-pipes  ”, ” wrenches, ” socket, ratchet, extension, ” hex key  Mustang Shorty headers, straight tubes  Catalytic convertors and full length headers are available if required or preferred. Mount the headers to the engine. Thread locker is recommended, particularly if you have aluminum heads.
Page 269 Mount the straight pipes to the Mustang headers. The shorter pipe will go on the passenger side. Leave the bolts hand tight in order to locate the side pipes properly.  Aftermarket headers may require “ovaling” the holes on the two-bolt flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 270: Fuel Lines To Engine
Fuel Lines to engine  flat head screwdriver  Fuel line components Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor or fuel rail. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. 96-04 Connections ...
Page 271: 96-04 Hydro-Booster And Power Steering Lines
”x 16” onto the inlet side of the fuel pulse dampener. Insert one end of the Slide and attach the fuel injection clamp over the end of the pulse dampener end. ” hard line coming Slide another fuel injection clamp onto the hose and push the inlet end onto the from the rear of the car.
Page 272 Hydro-boost lines shown in stock location. Lines must be bent and re-routed to fit behind aluminum Tubes bent around inside of Master cylinder. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 273 Lines in bent and routed in final locations. Lines running from booster, along steering shaft to steering rack. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 274 Hose routing for 96-2000 power steering cooler. Power steering line for steering rack. Note stock line bent. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 275: Power Steering Oil Cooler (If Applicable)
Power Steering Oil Cooler (If applicable)  ” drill bit, ⅜” wrench. Drill,  Power steering cooler and hoses. 1996-1999 Version ” plate on the front of the 4” main rails. Use the original Mount the power steering cooler to the mount on the passenger side and the hole drilled in the preparation section earlier on the other side.
Page 276: 2000-2004 Version
Location of power steering cooler inlet/outlet if using tubular control arms. 2000-2004 Version  This cooler is the replacement for the older coolers. There are a couple of different locations that the cooler can be mounted: To the bottom of the radiator so it is visible through the oil cooler opening or, in the location above and in front of the radiator.
Page 277 Drill and temporarily mount the driver side mount. Measure the distance from the radiator and make a bracket to mount the passenger side mount such as the one shown. Note the 90 degree bent mount bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 278: Clutch Cable
Clutch Cable  Insulated clip hardware. Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Using zip ties or insulated clips tie the cable safely away from the headers and the moving steering components. It can be fastened to the engine using the bracket on the cable to the front lower bolt that holds the starter cable just before it leaves the block or, to the lower engine bay ¾”...
Page 279: Speedometer Sending Unit
Connect the clutch cable to the bellhousing and the clutch fork. Speedometer Sending Unit  11mm deep socket, ratchet.  Mustang speedometer sending unit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 280: Accelerator Cable
Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. Plug the wire harness connector into the sender. Accelerator Cable  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”...
Page 281: Fuel Injected Application
Fuel Injected application Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the intake using ⅜” and ” wrenches. Put a dab of silicone on the rear edge of the rubber wipe then push the rubber wipe back onto the threads.
Page 282 Accelerator cable mounted on ‘98 4 valve intake. Accelerator cable mounted on ’96 2 valve intake. 87-93 - Push the ball stud retainer onto the ball on the bottom of the throttle body. Push/pull the cable into the retainer so that the cable is tight. ”...
Page 283 Check the idle screw underneath the throttle body to see if the throttle arm is hitting it. If it is not, either loosen the ball stud retainer set screw and readjust the cable or, bend the small tab behind the accelerator pedal until the idle screw hits the throttle arm.
Page 284: Carbureted Applications
Carbureted applications If necessary, attach the supplied ball stud to the carburetor in the appropriate location. Refer to the carburetor instructions for placement. Attach the ball stud retainer to the ball stud. Pull the cable tight holding the cable against the ball stud retainer. Align the ball stud retainer with the cable as if the cable was going into the retainer.
Page 285: Intake Hose And Air Filter
Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and ” wrenches. Put a dab of silicone on the rear edge of the rubber wipe then push the rubber wipe back onto the threads.
Page 286: Mass Air Meter
Modified 2003 intake tube. Mass air meter  ” drill bit, ⅜” socket Drill,  Wire harness mounting hardware, Mustang mass air sensor  Mass Air Meters are used on 1989 and newer Mustangs. 89-93 Mounting Flatten the outer edge of the mounting bracket using a hammer or vise. Use the top OEM hole and mount to the front side of the vertical ¾”...
Page 287: Fuel Vapor Canister
Attach the mass air mount to the backside of the vertical ¾” tube on the passenger side as shown in the ” rivets. picture below using two Attach the Mass air meter to the mount using the stock nuts. Attach the intake hose to the engine and the mass air meter. Bend the Mass Air mount so that the hose will fit on the meter.
Page 288: 87-95 Mounting
87-95 Mounting ” holes through the canister bracket OEM holes. Mount with two #14 screws. Drill two Attach the vent hose from the gas tank to the canister and the hose leading to the engine. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 289: Mounting
96-04 Mounting If you are going to run a vapor line and a fuel evaporative canister (charcoal can), mount the can at the back of the car on the driver side using the stock bracket so that the stock plastic line will still reach the correct connection.
Page 290: 87-93 Fan Mounting
Fan mount bracket 87-93 Fan Mounting ” socket. Remove the radiator reservoir using a ” steel strips to the electric fan using the Phillips head screws provided. Attach the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 291: 94-04 Mounting
Position the fan assembly in the mouth of the fan shroud so that the fan and shroud are flush, if necessary, bend the tabs on the mount strips outwards slightly to hold it in place. Mark the position of the mounting strip holes and drill guide holes into fan shroud with ⅛” drill bit. Drill the holes through the plastic shroud until the drill touches the mounting strip tabs.
Page 292: Radiator Mounting
Radiator Mounting Zip tie the radiator in place on the chassis. The bottom section can just hang by a couple ties looped around the lower outlet and the drain. Move the radiator towards passenger side until the filling cap just clears the frame. Drill the holes to mount the radiator top flange to the two small mounting tubes on the chassis.
Page 293: 96-04 Additional Steps
Mount the radiator top to the flange with the hardware provided. The bottom stays zip tied for now. 96-04 additional steps Hold the upper radiator mount plate up to the frame, and line up the bend with the bend in the ¾” tube. Mark rivet locations every 3”- 4”.
Page 294 Drill and rivet the upper mount plate to the radiator using ⅛” rivets. Position the stock overflow tank so that it is centered across the front radiator mount plate. DOHC overflow front overflow mounts positioned on the radiator mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 295 Mount the rear of the overflow tank to the front side of the 2”x 2” frame tube using the bracket included ” rivets. Mk 3 shown. Mount the front of the overflow tank to the radiator mount using #14x ½” screws provided. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 296  96-04 - If you prefer to use rubber radiator hoses, use NAPA # 7575 for the top hose. Use the stock lower hose to the thermostat housing then use Gates #21383 to attach to the radiator going under the steering rack. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 297: Stainless Radiator Hoses
Stainless Radiator Hoses Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 298 Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. Then fit the larger adapters over them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 299 Upper radiator hose Start at the engine and using the stock Mustang radiator the radiator hose should be routed through the “F” panel to the radiator. If the FFR radiator is being used, the upper radiator hose should be routed above the “X”...
Page 300 Push some grommeting onto the passenger side aluminum “F” panel slot to prevent any chaffing of the tube. Pass the upper radiator tube through the passenger side “F” panel and route the tube to the radiator. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location. Remove the tube from the vehicle.
Page 301: 87-93 Fan Wiring
Run the tube next to the 4” main rail and under the steering rack to the radiator. Route the lower tube with enough slack to be able to adjust the radiator for the nose aluminum. Make sure that the lower hose is not hanging down. If necessary, zip tie the hose to the frame. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location.
Page 302 Standard on/off switch  Using this set-up, the driver must watch the water temperature gauge and manually turn the fan on when the water temperature gets to 212°F. The fan should only be needed while going less than 35mph or in traffic. ...
Page 303 Locate a coolant access point in your engine block or cylinder head to install the thermostat switch and thread it in. Ground the black electric fan wire to the frame. Connect the other electric fan wire to the #87 tab on the fan relay. Attach the #85 ground tab to the thermostat switch.
Page 304: Aluminum Panels
Aluminum panels Transmission Tunnel Cover  ” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun Drill,  Roadster Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. Silicone and install the shifter hole cover. Make sure it does not interfere with the movement of the shift lever.
Page 305: Driver Footbox Side Aluminum
Silicone and install the tunnel plug patch panel. Driver Footbox Side Aluminum  ⅛” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, caulking gun, silicone  Mounted aluminum, packaged aluminum, secondary body fasteners Silicone and install the drivers side footbox outer wall. The front flanges tuck in behind the footbox front panel.
Page 306: Emergency Brake
Emergency Brake E-brake Handle  ” hex key  Mustang E-brake handle, brake line components.  The 99-04 Parking brake handle has different mounting locations and “T” cable length than the older 87-98 handles. Push the U-nuts from the brake line components onto the E-brake handle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 307 On 99-04 handles, remove the small bracket and screw that prevents the ratcheting adjustment gear from turning. Bolt the handle to the mount bracket using the kit fasteners. The holes are slotted so the handle can get positioned properly to allow room for your hand around the handle. 2003 E-brake Handle mounted. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 308: E-Brake Cables
E-brake Cables  Your E-brake cables should be from the same car as your rear brakes.  87-92 Mustang cables or the FFR cables mount to the bracket up near the 2”x 3” tube. 93-04 Mustang cables mount to the bracket near the handle. For 87-92 and FFR cables route them through the upper bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place.
Page 309 For 87-92 and FFR cables, route the inner cable down under the chassis and hook them to the T cable. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 310 Solid Axle Route the remaining cable back to the calipers and attach. Make sure your routing is out of the way of any moving parts and the cable has slack to move with the axle. Pull up on the handle a few times to make sure the self Tensioner works and there are no problems with the cable.
Page 311 Bend and route the cables over the center section so that they curves to the rear of the lower control arm and attach the cable to the arm using zip ties from the kit. Emergency brake cable in caliper bracket. Pull up on the handle a few times to make sure the self Tensioner works and there are no problems with the cable.
Page 312 Optional IRS 11.65” brakes Attach the emergency brake cable to the caliper by pulling on the back of the caliper slightly and pushing the cable into the mount. The cable will be very close to or touch the adapter bracket. If necessary, file a small angled recess in the adapter bracket.
Page 313: Engine Ground
Bend and route the cables over the center section so that they curves to the rear of the lower control arm and attach the cable to the arm using zip ties from the kit. Engine Ground  Sand paper or grinder bit, ½” socket, ratchet, ”...
Page 314: Seats
Bolt the ground strap to the hole and then run the other end to a boss on the block. In this case we used an engine mount bolt. Seats  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker ...
Page 315 Lift up the bottom of the cushion to reveal the seat frame. Using the rivet heads as a guide mark where the rails of the seat frame are above the seat mounting plates. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 316: Nameplate
Drill the first hole for the seat mounting and install the bolt. Drill the remaining holes for mounting the seats and install the bolts. Nameplate  ” drill bit, rivet gun, drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 317: Gauges And Dash
Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope  Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2”...
Page 318 1987-1993 1994-1998 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 319: Dash Preparation
1999-2004 With 1994-1995 versions, cut the trip meter off from the odometer as shown before cutting. Retain the odometer to reattach to the speedometer later. With the gauges separated center them in their designated dash holes from the back side and scribe a mark from the front at each mounting hole.
Page 320 Depending on which gauges you are using you may need to open up the dash holes for the tachometer and speedometer. If you need the larger holes the take a tin snip and cut through from the smaller hole to the tracing for the larger one halfway between all the tabs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 321 Take a pair of pliers and snap the tabs off to get the larger opening. Countersink the gauge mounting holes in the dash. To do this take one of the 1.5” long Phillips head screws included in the kit, and use a drill to screw the screws into all of the gauge mounting holes from the front side of the dash.
Page 322: Gauge Installation
Gauge Installation  There are multiple gauge mounting holes for the different years, so there will be some unused holes in the dash, which will be covered by the padded dash. 87-93 gauges installed, note the screw holes used. 94-98 Gauges installed, note the screw holes used ”...
Page 323 Countersink the spacers to match the countersunk holes for a good fit and so they lay flat against the dash. If you would like to install the three lights that are included in the kit, one possible layout is similar to the original Roadsters, positioned directly over the steering column in a straight line.
Page 324 Install the large gauges with the taller spacers and the smaller gauges with the shorter spacers that are included with the kit so that the faces of the gauges stand away from the back face of the aluminum dash panel. This distance has been pre-set at the factory so that the sweep hands of each gauge fit. The blue light will light when the high beams are on.
Page 325 The turn signal light uses a three prong flasher unless two lights are used, one for each direction. Using the one light in the kit, remove the two-prong flasher from above the passenger compartment. Break/cut the connector for it in half and connect the purple/pink wire to the prong marked “L”. Attach the other wire to the prong marked “X”...
Page 326 Clean the dash off with some brake cleaner or acetone and spray the front surface and the back surface of the dash pad with adhesive. (3M super 77 or super 90 work great). Stick the dash to the pad leaving about an inch border all around the top, the bottom will be bigger for the flange.
Page 327 Cut the dash pad in angle shaped cuts every 2” (even closer in the corners) up to about ¼” from the dash. Wrap the dash pad around to the back and glue it. Use some heavy books to hold the pad in place until the adhesive has a chance to dry.
Page 328 If you are having trouble getting the pad to stick on the bottom of the dash you can screw the corners down using some of the trim screws provided with the dash hardware. Using a razor knife, cut the gauge holes and switch holes out of the dash pad, cut the holes in from the ”.
Page 329 Using the razor knife cut a “+” sign pattern into the middle of the steering shaft hole. Press fit the 4” and 2” bezels into the dash by pressing on the outer rim section only. For 1987-1993 gauges pull out the trip counter button. Install the switches in the dash.
Page 330 Use the wiring extension pins to connect the gauges to the white master panel (the dash pod). This was previously mounted on the firewall behind the dash. Connect the electric fan wires to the fan switch if being used. Connect the horn wires to the horn button. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 331 ” below the Line the dash up with the hoop on the chassis. The corners of the dash support tube are top edge of the dash. The tube will be lower as it goes to the middle. Make sure the gauges do not hit the ¾” tubing. ”...
Page 332 Push the ends of the dash behind the top of the door hinge and screw through the hinge into the dash end. Unpack the dash support/headlight/hazard brackets from the packaged aluminum. Rivet the panels to the chassis and then use the trim screws to attach them to the bottom of the dash. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 333: Steering Wheel
Install the Mustang headlight and hazard switches in the aluminum brackets. Installation of the dash with Mustang gauge conversion set. Steering Wheel  ” hex key Phillips head screw driver, 10mm wrench, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 334  Steering wheel/Hardware Unpack the steering wheel hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 335 Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 336: Rollbar
Rollbar  ½” wrench, ” hex key, ” drill bit, Drill  Driver side Rollbar Assembly Unpack the rollbar and mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 337 Slide the rear leg of the bar down into the chassis mount. Slide the main hoop into the chassis mounts and wiggle or tap with a soft mallet until it lines up with the rear leg. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 338 Slide the rear leg up over the mount on the hoop and make sure it comes all the way up flush. Clamp the rear leg up with a pair of vise grips. The front hoop will angle back about 6° or so. Drill a hole all the way through each of the lower mounts and rollbar main hoop.
Page 339 Insert one of the bolts after drilling each hole to ensure that the rollbar does not move. Make sure the rear leg is tight up against the main hoop and drill the upper hole. This bolt will be visible so keep this in mind when deciding the orientation. Install the bolt loosely to keep the leg in place.
Page 340: Rolling Chassis Check
Drill the remaining mount and install and tighten all of the bolts. Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Now is a good time to double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.
Page 341: Fluid Levels And Grease
Fluid Levels and Grease  Grease gun, chassis grease, ratchet, rags  Transmission fluid, rear axle gear oil, engine oil, coolant, water www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 342 Fill the rear differential with gear oil. Any 8.8 in. ford has a fill plug that is removed and filled until the oil just reaches that level. The IRS has it in the rear cover and the solid axle has it in the front. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 343 Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly. Leave the shift handle and knob off for now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 344 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 345: Irs Axle Nuts
Suspension All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. IRS Axle Nuts ...
Page 346: Wheels
Have a friend sit in the car and step on the brakes. Torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components. Power Steering System Bleeding Raise the front wheels off the ground if they are not already www.factoryfive.com...
Page 347: Rattle Patrol
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Fill the reservoir to the full cold level and leave the cap off. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock 20 times checking the fluid level every few times. Top off if necessary.
Page 348: Footbox Fitment
 Wiring – loose wires – close to heat sources or moving parts – loose grounds  Suspension – all hardware tight – no binding or clearance issues  Chassis – all hardware double checked – nothing loose or sharp ...
Page 349: Driver Footbox Aluminum
 Racing seats with less padding give more room, the more upright the angle of the seat the more room to straighten out your legs. Driver Footbox aluminum Rivet the remaining inner cockpit wall flange to the firewall. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 350 Silicone and install the footbox inside top panel. Leave the top flange un-riveted for now; use some clamps or tape to hold it in place. Silicone and install the outer footbox top section. Your rolling chassis is now complete! www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 351: Body Section
Chapter Body Section www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 352: Frame Preparation
The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
Page 353 The rectangular adhesive backed weatherstrip runs along the top of the chassis tubes on either side of the hood opening and the top of the curved trunk hoop. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 354: Mounting The Body
The push-on weather strip needs to run across the top of the firewall and the trunk walls and rear floor. Mounting the Body Rear Quick Jacks  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack bumper components  The main locating points for the body are the rear quick jack mounts; these will set the body in the correct position front to back as well as locating the rear half up and down and side to side.
Page 355 The long sleeves go between the body and chassis with washers on both ends of all sleeves. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 356 The nut and bolt use a ⅝” wrench and socket to attach the rear quick jack bolts to the frame and body. Even with the quick jacks removed, it is still a good idea to wrap the bolts with some rags and duct-tape to save yourself from painful cuts or bruises.
Page 357: Front Quick Jacks/Front Mounts
Front Quick Jacks/Front mounts  ⅝” wrench, ⅝” socket, ratchet  Quick jack fasteners  Do not tighten the bolts until directed to do so. The body mounting bracket goes on the back side of the frame front mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 358 Assemble the quick jack parts in the order shown, the bolts can be installed either way around depending on personal preference. Use the shipping carriage bolt through the turn signal mounting hole until the turn signals are mounted. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 359 Center the body over the frame using a tape measure to measure from the lip of the body to the rear mounting plate of the front coil-over bracket. Check the alignment to make sure the tape measure is going straight across the car by lining it up with the front “X” member so that the tape measure is parallel.
Page 360: Hood Fitment And Bumpers
Check the outside corners of the dash tube. Make sure there is a ½” or so gap between the body and frame. Try pushing down on the body here, it should move. If the tube touches it will affect the door front corner fitment. Use an adjustable or ¾” wrench to bend the tube down a bit, it will go easily the tubing has a thin wall.
Page 361 The hood has been trimmed slightly oversized to allow the panel gaps to be sanded down to fit. Set the hood in place and make sure it will fit the opening in the body, if needed sand or file the edges to allow the panel to just fit with a very small gap all around.
Page 362: Hood Pins
Use ⅛” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame. Once you are happy with the alignment you can set the panel gap and radius the edges. An easy way to set the gap is by using a marker. With the panel in place, run a marker around the edge of the panel so that it tubs the body lip all of the way around.
Page 363 Hood pin mount Loosely attach the hood pin mount plates to the chassis using the carriage bolts. The bolts push in from the outside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 364 Position the Hood pin plates on the frame. Attach the hood pin vertical posts hand tight to the mounting plate. One nut goes on each side of the plate. ” holes in the front ¾” tube through the mounting plate holes. Drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 365: Optional Hood Hinge
Rivet the plate to the front ¾” tube. Change the angle of the mounting plate so that the hood pin post is perpendicular to the body hood lip. Bend the front tab if necessary so that it sits flat on the radiator mount tube. Tighten the carriage bolts holding the mounting plates.
Page 366 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 367 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 368 The hood hinge pivot mounts attach to the hood using rivets, the holes are predrilled in the hood liner ” drill bit. This is the initial install so you only need a few but you may need to clean them out with a rivets if you are going to remove the hinge brackets prior to body painting (recommended).
Page 369 Drivers side long arm with bushings pressed in Passenger side long arm with bushings pressed in Press the bronze bushings into the holes in the hinge arms as shown. The short hinge arms are both the same. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 370 Drivers side arm plate with arms attached Driver side Hinge Assembled. Attach the hinge arms to the arm support plate as shown using the ⅜” shoulder bolts, spacers, nylon lock nuts and washers. The spacer fits over the bronze bushing after it is pressed into the arm holes. The flange of the bronze bushings should contact the arm plate.
Page 371 Attach the hinges to the chassis using the carriage bolts, these push in from the outside for easier adjustment. Leave the bolts loose enough so that the hinge assembly can be positioned to match the hood. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 372 Set the hood in place and attach the two arms to the brackets from the underside of the body. Install the threaded ball studs in the hole on the long hinge arms with the ball pointed toward the outside ” locknut. Then snap the gas piston shaft onto the ball. of the car using a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 373: Hood Handles
Attach the piston body end to the ball on the hood. Hood Handles  ”, ”, ”, ⅝” drill bits, drill, measuring tape, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, marker, ⅛ 2.5mm hex key, file.  Three lock set and fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 374 Measure the center of the hood liner rib along the trailing edge of the hood and mark it. Measure out from the hood center 12” on each side and mark the middle of the hood liner rib for the hood handle location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 375 Drill through the hood and the liner starting with smaller bits working up to a ⅝” hole. The larger bits sometimes work better by running the drill in reverse so they do not tear the fiberglass. Remove the hood handles from the three lock set and break off the bottom small tabs with a pair of pliers.
Page 376 Set the handles in the holes drilled in the hood so that they are lined up squarely with the edge and mark the screw holes on the hood. ” bit then screw the handles down using the screws from the set. Drill the holes with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 377 Shut the hood and mark the body where the hood handles line up. ” holes in the hood opening recess ¼” on either side of the centerline and Open the hood and drill two ¼” back from the edge of the opening. These are for mounting the hood catch brackets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 378 The latch brackets are in the handle assembly, center them on the line with the corner edge up against the inner radius of the hood opening and mark the two holes. ” bit and file the edged of the bracket round with a file or Drill the two holes just marked with a grinder for a nice finish.
Page 379 The four remaining screws are used to hold these brackets in place. They can either be countersunk into the body or used to hold down the hood bumpers to hide them completely. Attach the cam wedge to the underside of the hood handles and adjust for tightness using a 2.5mm hex key.
Page 380: Windshield
Windshield  Phillips head screwdriver, marker, ½” drill bit, drill, hack saw, ¾” wrench, ratchet, ¾” socket, friend.  Windscreen box.  The strips along the sides of the windshield that the screws go into are brass. The brass threads strip easily so take your time and make sure that they thread correctly.
Page 381 With the help of a friend, slide the windshield down through the slots in the body until the bottom edge is resting on the body and mark the chassis mounting holes on the arms. If the arms are too long and prevent the windshield from sitting down then pull them back out and trim off the excess.
Page 382: Doors
Slide the windshield into position and bolt in place using the windshield mounting hardware. The windshield should remain bolted down while you fit the doors. Doors  ” hex key, marker, ⅝” socket, ratchet, air saw, orbital sander, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun ...
Page 383 If you have removed them, remount the door hinges on the chassis. The square nuts sit alongside the tube so only one hex wrench is needed for adjustment. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 384 Use a jack under the side of the car to make sure the body is up against the bottom of the frame. Leave the jack so that the body can be moved in and out when pulled. Start with the body all the way in. Position the door in the body to see where it may need to be trimmed to fit the opening.
Page 385 Hold or tape the door in position and attach the hinge to the studs. Adjust the door with the hinge until the panel surfaces are lined up with the body. Start at the top of the door and match the curved surfaces. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 386 Once the front of the door is good, reuse one of the #10 self-tapping screws that the body was originally mounted with to lock the location in. Screw it up into the 2”x 2” tube near the front of the door. Push or pull the back of the body to line it up with the door if necessary.
Page 387: Door Latch
Once the body is painted and final mounted rivet the bottom lip of the body to the chassis using the long ” rivets. Set the gaps on the doors as you did with the hood using a marker. Door Latch ...
Page 388 Remove the door latch striker from the original mounting bracket and keep only the striker and the washers. The bracket and nut will not be used. Bolt the striker onto the chassis putting enough shims on the striker to bring the base of the striker head flush with the door latch pad when the door is closed.
Page 389 Latch the door latch onto the striker and close the door. Adjust the striker if needed to fit the latch to the door cut out. You can also use the door latch spacers to help with this alignment. ” holes for the door latch. With the door lined up and the striker in place, mark and drill the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 390: Trunk
Lubricate the moving parts of the latch using Lithium or silicone grease. This will make the latches easier to use and prevent any binding. Bolt everything together to double check fit and operation. The door latches will be tight at first but break in quickly with use.
Page 391: Trunk Hinge
Trim the trunk lid edges enough so that it just fits into the opening. Trunk Hinge  ½” wrench, ” hex key  Trunk hinge components. Press the bushings into the hinge arms from either side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 392 ” locknuts to bolt the mounting pads to the arms leaving them just snug so Use the carriage bolts and they can be moved without loosening the bolts. Hang the hinge arms on the chassis using the shoulder bolts. You do not need the nuts for just doing fitment.
Page 393 Screw the trunk to the mounting pads also leaving them loose enough that they will just move. Close the trunk and wiggle it into position then open and tighten the bolts. This may take a little adjustment to get the trunk to sit down right. You can also use some of the rubber bumpers from the hood opening as a temporary means of holding the surfaces level.
Page 394: Trunk Latch
Trunk Latch  ⅜” socket, ratchet, flat head screwdriver, Philips head screwdriver  3 lock set and fasteners Find the trunk latch and components in the 3 lock set. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 395 Screw the trunk latch to the holder with the short #14 screws lining the small square hole with the hole for the handle. Bolt the handle to the trunk running the bolts through the trunk and the latch mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 396 The long bolt that holds the latch pin in place goes through the plastic cap then the body then the sleeve and into the chassis plate. Test fit to make sure the trunk is held snug. If it is loose you can bend the catch with channel lock pliers to snug it down.
Page 397: Body Cut-Outs
Body Cut-outs Fuel filler  Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bit, 3½” hole saw or air saw or jig saw, masking tape, scissors.  Fuel filler template, Aston Lemans Cap components. Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body.
Page 398: Tail Light
Use a 3½” hole saw for the center opening, drill out the holes for the filler. If you do not have a hole saw this size, you can cut the center circle out of the template and use the remaining template to mark for a jig-saw instead.
Page 399 ” bit to drill the two outer holes for the taillight studs then cut out the center using a 1¼” hole Use a saw. There are marks on the body that locate these holes. If the marks do not show there is also a template in the back of the manual.
Page 400: Turn Signal
Turn Signal  ” drill bit, 1¼” hole saw, marker. Drill,  Turn signal template, Amber front turn signal lights Remove the gasket from the turn signal box and use it to center and trace the mounting holes and large center hole for the turn signal.
Page 401: License Plate Light
” drill bit and the inner with a 1¼” hole saw. Drill the outer holes with a Test fit a light and adjust if needed. License plate light  Drill, ¼”, ⅜” drill bits, scissors, masking tape, marker www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 402 This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, Sate and local laws regarding its use.
Page 403: Side Exhaust
Test fit the light with a license plate and adjust the holes with the drill bit if needed. Side exhaust  Drill, 2½” hole saw, air saw or jig saw.  Side exhaust template www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 404 The pattern for the standard exhaust cut out is pre traced on the body. Using a 2½” hole saw cut the upper two corners of the pattern out. Using a jig saw cut the remaining straight sections and radius on the lower rear corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 405: Headlights
Headlights  ”, ¼”, ” drill bit, razor knife, masking tape, air saw or jig saw, level. Drill,  Headlight template, headlight components, Cut out the headlight templates from the back of the manual on the outermost diameter and tape them in the center of the fender with the line level with the ground.
Page 406 Cut the center of the template out and trace the inner circle with a marker. Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 407 Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. Test fit the light bucket and rubber gasket making sure that they sit flat and the bucket is centered on the ”...
Page 408: Side Louver
Side louver  Drill, 1¼” hole saw, jig saw or air saw, measuring tape, marker  Side louver template Use the template and measurements in the picture below to locate the template on the body. Use a 1¼” hole saw to cut the corners on the traced opening for the side louver. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 409: Hood And Scoop
Connect the flush surfaces of the holes with a jig saw. Hood and Scoop  ”, ⅜” drill bits, marker, ruler, tape measure, jig saw or air saw, rivet gun. Drill,  Hood scoop, hood, secondary body fasteners. ” rivets and are normally spaced Mark and drill around the edge of the scoop for rivets.
Page 410 On the underside of the hood on the liner, trace the opening for the cut out in the hood 1½” in from the side and rear edges and 4” back from the front edge of the scoop recess. Use a larger drill bit to start the blade for the saw then cut the opening in the hood using a jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 411 To locate the scoop, measure from the leading edged of the hood back 19” on either side of the opening and draw a straight line across the width of the hood. On the line just marked, measure in 8” from each of the outside edges of the hood and mark on the line. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 412 Center the scoop using the straight edge and two marks. Double check by measuring in from the rear edges of the hood to make sure that it is centered. Drill two of the rivet holes on opposite sides for the scoop and install a couple rivets to hold the panels together.
Page 413: Roll Bar
Drill out the remaining rivet holes and then separate the two pieces for painting. Roll bar  Drill, 1¾” hole saw, air saw or jig saw, file  1.50” driver side Rollbar. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 414 The roll bar holes are marked on the body and need to be cut out using a 1¾” holes saw. The front two holes are cut centering the saw in the marked circle and drilling vertically to match the angle the bar comes through the body.
Page 415: Final Prep
The rear of the hole is then finished using the whole saw vertically. Trim the remaining flash on the opening with a file or jig saw and test fit the bar. Final Prep  Sand paper www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 416  All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted. ...
Page 417: Body Painting
Body Painting  Remove all trim, doors, windshield etc. before beginning body work  The primer gel coat sands easily, and is a forgiving material to work with.  The body comes out of the mold with a wax release compound and a thorough cleaning with a wax remover is the best way to begin this job.
Page 418: Final Assembly
Chapter Final Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 419: Radiator Aluminum
Radiator Aluminum  Drill, ¼” Nut driver, ⅛”, ” drill bits, rivet tool, floor jack, marker, ruler, silicone, caulk gun.  Secondary body fasteners, engine bay aluminum.  Use care when handling aluminum, the edges are sharp and can cut you. The radiator and its plumbing were installed before the body was mounted.
Page 420 Pass the radiator floor piece through the nose. Position the radiator floor aluminum so that it goes under the body lip and goes across to the bottom of the radiator. Clamp the floor piece to the nose. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 421 Attach the radiator floor piece to the bottom of the radiator with a couple of self-tapping screws on the marks or use a couple of clamps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 422 Drill, silicone and rivet the radiator floor aluminum to the bottom radiator lip. ” rivets. Silicone and rivet the aluminum to the nose lip using three www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 423 Pass the radiator sidepieces through the nose and put them on their respective sides.  Trimming aluminum may be necessary if you use the press-on rubber bulb seal weather- stripping. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 424 Line up the edge of the radiator fins with the edge of the side aluminum and attach the piece to the ¾” tube using a self tapping screw. From the backside of the panel, mark the location of the ¾” tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 425  If using the press on bulb weatherstrip, make sure there is ⅜”-½” of gap between the edge of the panel and the body. Remove the side panel then measure, mark, drill rivet locations where the ¾” tube is located and press on the bulb weatherstrip.
Page 426 Reinsert the side panel then silicone and rivet the panel to the ¾” tube and the radiator floor aluminum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 427: Carpet
Repeat this procedure for the driver side panel. Carpet  Razor knife, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, brake cleaner or acetone.  Interior trim/carpet  ® The adhesive used to hold the carpet down is the same as we used on the dash pad. 3M Super77™...
Page 428 Double check the aluminum edges and corners for any areas that look like they are not sealed. Run a small bead of silicone in these corners, seams and around the slots where the seat harness mounts poke through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 429 Start with the large rear cockpit wall of carpet. Position it before gluing so you understand where it will go then, apply the adhesive and glue it into position. The cockpit rear corners go on next. Be very careful spraying the adhesive once some carpet is mounted.
Page 430 Test fit the rear and main tunnel covers. While you are fitting cut the handle opening for the e-brake and shifter. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 431 Glues down the tunnel top. The tunnel rear section is slightly oversized to make sure it can cover small variances in the way the other pieces lay down. Trim it for a perfect fit then glue it in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 432 Fit and glue the passenger outside footbox wall carpet section. The carpet tucks in behind the footbox protection tube. Taping off the tube helps prevent getting the adhesive on it. Fit and glue the driver’s side footbox outer carpet section. This piece also tucks behind the footbox tubing.
Page 433 Fit and glue the tunnel/firewall section of carpet. Fit and glue the lower floor sections. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 434: Seats Harness Lap Belt
Fit and glue the under door sections. The floors are the last pieces to go in. They may also need a slight trim for the best fit. Glue them down and vacuum the carpet prior to the seats going in. Seats Harness lap belt ...
Page 435 Unpack the seat harnesses and hardware. Drill through the inner lap belt mount into the tunnel with a ½ in. bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 436: Emergency Brake Boot
Bolt the lap harness in position with the inner most nut inside the transmission tunnel. Emergency Brake Boot  ” drill bit, drill, Phillips head screwdriver  Interior Trim/Carpet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 437 Unpack the e-brake boot and a few of trim screws. Fit the boot over the handle and check the handle actuation. When you are in a position where the boot clears the handle movement drill through the material into the tunnel and screw it into place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 438: Seat Final Install
Seat Final Install Drill back up through your seat mounting holes to put holes through the carpet and re-mount the seats. Seat Harness Shoulder Belts  Razor knife, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ½” drill bit, drill, ratchet  Seat Harness/Fasteners, Misc. electrical components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 439 Use some of the serrated grommeting from the electrical assembly to cover the edge where the harness passes through. Cut the carpet with a single slit to allow the harness to pass through. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 440 Remove the mounting tab and slider from the harness. Slide the harness through the rear wall from the front. The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 441: Shifter Handle And Boot
Replace the slider and mounting tab and bolt the tab to the chassis. Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. Shifter Handle and Boot  ½” wrench, ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver, marker, thread lock www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 442  Shifter handle components Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker. Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 443 Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. ” holes in the spots you marked. Remove the boot and drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 444 Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation.
Page 445: Headlights
Headlights  Philips head screwdriver  Headlight components Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 446 Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 447 Run the light plug harness through from the inside Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 448 Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light. Put the gasket on the bucket with the adjuster bosses poking through the 2 larger holes. Screw the bucket to the body using the screw that came in the mounting assembly.
Page 449 Plug the light into the connector and mount the bulb to the bucket. The slotted parts of the mounting flange go onto the adjusting screws between the screw head and flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 450: Turn Signals
Push the spring clip onto the boss near the bottom of the bucket. Mount the trim ring hooking it over the bucket on the top and screwing it into the bottom using the countersunk screw. Turn Signals  ” deep socket, ratchet ...
Page 451: Tail Lights
Mount the turn signals to the body being careful not to over tighten the locknuts. Tail lights  ” deep socket, ratchet  Red rear lights www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 452: Gas Cap
Mount the taillights, also being careful with the mounting hardware. Gas Cap  Phillips head screwdriver  Aston Lemans Cap www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 453 Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 454 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.
Page 455: Side Louvers
Side Louvers  Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape  Side Louvers Unpack the side louvers. Holding the top and bottom flanges, bend the fins in so they are roughly at a 45° angle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 456 Hold them up to the body to see how they fit. They are designed to allow air to exit the engine bay so the flanges point from the rear edge in. Apply silicone down the top and bottom flange on the side facing the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 457: Weatherstripping
Line up the louvers and tape them in place to hold them until the silicone dries. Weatherstripping  Razor knife, tin snips  Secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 458 If you haven’t already run the bulb seal up the sides and rear of the trunk and bolt the trunk hinges back in place and tighten. Cut out a section of the C channel where the hoop comes across to allow one piece to run the whole way.
Page 459 If you removed any of the other weatherstrip on the firewall or hood support tubes replace it now. When you are ready to mount the body, unpack the expanding foam and run a small section up the outside of each footbox just forward of the door hinge. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 460: Final Body Mounting
Final Body Mounting Fit the body back on the chassis. Be very careful with the sides and slowly work it down into position. Pull the sides out around the chassis and make sure the body covers the rear cockpit wall and top of he dash without pulling the material off either.
Page 461: Hood Mounting
Re-mount the nose with the front quick jacks. Hood mounting Rivet the scoop back in position on the hood. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 462: Rollbar Mounting
Re-install the hood latch plates and replace the bumpers you used before on the body to line up the hood. Re-Install the hood and latches. Rollbar mounting  A popular option are the Roll bar grommets. If installing them, do it now. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 463: Door And Latch Mount
Re-mount the roll bar through the body. Make sure that the rear leg is in the correct orientation so that your holes will line up. Door and Latch mount Reattach the doors and latches. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 464: Windshield Mounting
Once you are happy with the door fit install the covers on the door latches. Windshield Mounting Position the windshield trim plates with gaskets on the body so that the notch faces the inside front corner. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 465: Fuel Filler Neck
Re-mount the windshield. Fuel Filler Neck  Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill  Aston Lemans Cap components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 466: Fuel Filler Neck
Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware.  This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used. 87-98 Fuel Filler Neck Attach the 2” fuel filler hose to the bottom section of the Mustang filler neck. Stock fuel tank filler neck with extension.
Page 467 Optional Stainless Steel filler neck with extension. Install the hose between the filler neck and gas cap with the clamps that came in the cap hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 468: 99-04 Filler Neck
Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. 99-04 Filler Neck  99-04 fuel filler tube assembly Push on and attach the 1” fuel filler hose to the lower part of the filler neck using the included hose clamps.
Page 469 Unpack the 2” fuel filler hose and cut a 5” long section out of one end. Use the short section of hose to connect the upper part of the stock filler neck to the Aston fuel cap www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 470: Fuel Tank Access Covers
Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. Fuel tank access covers  ⅛” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 471: Final Trunk Mounting
Silicone and install the patch panels in the trunk that cover the fuel sender and pickup access holes. Final Trunk Mounting  ” hex key Tin snips,  Secondary body fasteners Push the side mount weatherstrip on the trunk opening starting at the bottom next to the latch pin hole and working all the way around just leaving a small gap for the head of the latch pin bolt.
Page 472: Interior Rearview Mirror
Re-mount the license plate light and trunk handle. Re-mount the trunk to the hinges and re install the latch pin. Interior Rearview Mirror  ”, ”, ” drill bits, marker, measuring tape Philips head screwdriver, drill,  Rearview mirrors/fasteners Use a tape measure to find the center of the body by measuring between the inside front door corner areas and mark this on the body.
Page 473 Use a tape measure to measure in from the body lip to roughly the center of the dash tube. On top of the boy measure in and mark the body for the center tube location. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 474 Line up the rearview mirror with the center mark and mark the holes in the body. ” drill bit and slowly (so the bit doesn’t walk off the tube) drill through the body into the tube at Use a the mirror hole locations. ”...
Page 475 Put the plastic spacers between the dash tube and the body so the screws can go through them. Put the mirror screws through the mirror, body and spacers and screw them into the dash tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 476: Side Mirror
Side Mirror  ”, ” drill bits, marker, ⅜” wrench. Philips head screwdriver, drill,  Rearview mirrors/fasteners.  Only a driver side mirror is included with the kit. A passenger side one is available if desired. Unpack the side mirror assembly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 477 Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 478 Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 479 Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 480 Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 481: Light Wiring
Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. Light wiring  Wire strippers, wire crimpers, chassis harness instructions  Headlight components, amber front turn signal lights, rear lights, license plate light, electrical system completion components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 482: Check Straps
Wire in the headlights to the chassis harness. On the headlight, there are three wires, black is ground, white is high beam and the red is low beam. Wire the turn signals up to the chassis harness. On the light, the red wire is the dim light and the green wire is the bright light and the brass ring is the ground.
Page 483 Unpack the door check-straps. ” rivet. Rivet the check-strap to the door hinge using a Open a door wide but not enough so that the door hits the body. The straps will stretch slightly over time so allow enough room for this by closing the door slightly from the maximum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 484 While holding the door open, pull the check strap tight and mark the location of the mount holes on the inside face of the 2”x 2” tube. ” holes at the marked locations and rivet the mount to the chassis. Drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 485: Under Door Aluminum
Under door Aluminum  ” drill bit, rivet tool, silicone, caulking gun, spray glue, tin snips. Drill,  Packaged aluminum, interior trim/carpet, secondary body fasteners Unpack the under door aluminum panels. They are shaped to fit around the bottom of the door with flanges to mount to the chassis.
Page 486: Steering Wheel Center Section
Test fit and then glue in the remaining carpet sections under the doors. Cut a section of the large C channel weatherstrip to fit from the bottom of the door hinge to the door latch and push it in place over the body, aluminum and carpet to finish the edges off. The barb side goes towards the inside of the car.
Page 487  Steering wheel/hardware, Factory Five Badge Unwrap the steering wheel center section and push it into the steering wheel and boss, a little WD40 on the o-ring helps if it is tight. Peel the backing off the badge and stick it in the center section making sure you are aligned with the top of the steering wheel.
Page 488: Side Exhaust
With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the collar of the upper steering bearing. Side Exhaust  ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill, ”, ”...
Page 489 Unpack the hardware for mounting the side exhaust. Bolt the mounting bracket to the pipe on the forward side of the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 490 Bolt the pipe and gasket to the header or J-pipe flange with using the shorter ⅜” bolts and mechanical locknuts. ” hole in the 2”x 2” outrigger tube directly above the middle hole in the mounting bracket. Drill a You want this hole as high as you can get it while still being able to mount the rubber exhaust hanger. About ½”...
Page 491 Screw the rubber hanger onto the chassis with the sheet metal mounting screw using one of the washers between the rubber and the head of the screw. ” Bolt the bottom section of the hanger to the side exhaust mounting bracket using the middle length button head bolt with a washer to keep the hanger in place.
Page 492 Using the inner hole of the bracket as a guide, drill the 2”x 2” outrigger all the way through both of the ” bit. tube walls and into the footbox area with a Insert the rubber standoff between the bracket and outrigger and put the nut on finger tight then run the ”...
Page 493: Aluminum Splash Guards
Tighten the whole assembly together. Aluminum Splash guards  ⅛”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 494: Front Wheel
Front Wheel Put some of the press-on bulb seal around the outside edge of the aluminum front splash guards (they look like large elephant ears)where they will contact the body. Hold the splashguards up against the rear bent lip of the engine bay “F” aluminum. Overlap the two lips.
Page 495 Fit the splash guards in position. If needed, trim them to fit around the outside edge, the weatherstrip will cover the trimming. Put a wheel and tire on the car and check for aluminum clearance. If necessary push the aluminum in and mark the inside of the body at the outer edge of the splashguards.
Page 496 Silicone and rivet the panels in place down the length of the flange. ” rivets to attach to the bottom of the fender just forward of the exhaust cut-out. Use one of the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 497: Rear Wheel
Rear Wheel Push a piece of the bulb seal weather stripping around both rear splash guards where they will contact the body. Fit the panels in place and trim the outside perimeter if needed. The small tab on the bottom faces towards the rear of the car and is on the bottom.
Page 498 Silicone and rivet the panels in place. Bend the lower tab by hand to fit up flush with the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 499: Finishing Touches
” rivet as low as possible to attach the tab to the lower fender. Use a long Finishing Touches Review the Race car checklist in the appendix. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 500: Headlight Alignment
Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the 4” round tube with the normal number of people/weight in the car.
Page 501: Alignment Specifications
Measurement A: From the ground to the geometric center of one of the headlight lenses Measurement B: From one of the low beam headlights to the vehicle centerline. (Also measure from high beam center to vehicle centerline for 4 headlight systems) Note these measurements.
Page 502 Front For a car using a manual steering rack or the power rack without power use the following specifications: Caster: 3 Camber: -0.5 ” Total Toe: For a car using power steering car use the following specifications: Caster: 7 Camber: -0.5 ”...
Page 503: Optional Parts
 There should never be more than 1” of thread showing past the tightened down jam nuts on either end of both adjusting tubes. The Pivot Bolts must be loosened while the car is being aligned and retightened afterwards Optional Parts Check out factoryfive.com for the latest options available.
Page 504: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support
Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 505: Maintenance
Maintenance Check the items on the race car check sheet in the Appendix on a yearly basis or before track days depending on how hard the car is driven. Wheels  Only 7”-9” wheels are recommended for the front. If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms.
Page 506 Left: FFR car using late model 17” Cobra™ R rims. Right: Ford Racing Cobra™ R 17” wheels and 12” Cobra™ Brakes. 17”x 9” and 17”x 10.5” FR style wheels. For a more vintage look, take a look at our Halibrand style wheels. Our online parts catalog: factoryfiveparts.com has more views of these wheels on cars.
Page 507: 1994-1998 Rear End
Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style 1994-1998 rear end Use two (4) 9” wide, 5.95” backspace wheels in the front and the rear. If you would like a wider tire than this in the rear it is possible to use aftermarket 10.5” wide, 27mm offset wheels if the axles and caliper brackets are changed so that the rear is the same width as the 87-93 rear ends.
Page 508: Gears
Gears The Mustang 5.0 manual transmission car comes with either 2.73 or 3.08 rear end gear ratios from the factory. If you can get a rear from an automatic car it will have 3.27 gears. There is an ID tag on the rear differential.
Page 509 In order to increase the flow of air above 5000 rpm, upgrade from the stock mass air sensor. Aftermarket 70 mm or 75 mm mass air units are an excellent choice and have proven effective. If the mass air meter is changed make sure it is calibrated for the injectors you are using or you will have to change the injectors too.
Page 510: Oil Cooler
Timing Most computer chips simply change the timing of the engine and slightly enrich the mixture. Using a timing light, advancing the base timing to 14 will do the same. Higher octane fuel will be needed. Under-drive Pulleys Yes. They work well on all cars. Oil Cooler Not really necessary on small blocks or cars that aren’t raced heavily.
Page 511: Steering Rack
feature of the Tremec TKO is it allows the shifter to be relocated 8” forward of the normal shifter location if a vertical shifter is desired verses a forward angled shifter. Steering Rack Stock: 15:1 Once the car is rolling either a 15:1 or 18:1 rack will yield about the same effort feel. This is good for most driving situations.
Page 512: Rear Suspension
FFR two piece spindles (FFR#14850) – 5 lug, many wheels and brakes plus improved suspension geometry, improved steering feel and more adjustability over 94-04 spindles. Rear Suspension The standard solid axle 4-link rear suspension works well, is low maintenance and is reliable. Which rear suspension you choose depends on the type of driving you do a majority of the time.
Page 513: Control Arms
3-link suspension - This is for the more serious driver that goes to more road course track events and wants to start exploring the limit without giving up the “off the line” bite of a solid axle. IRS suspension – Good everyday driving suspension. The IRS is best for rough surfaces Control Arms Stock: Stamped steel with rubber bushings.
Page 514 Front: The stock front arms work well all round. The Factory Five tubular lower control arms with polyurethane bushings are lighter, eliminate the rubber and look better than the stock Mustang arms. Rear: Using tubular control arms with polyurethane bushings helps to locate the solid axle and hook up better on the drag launches.
Page 515: Shocks/Springs
Shocks/Springs Using the Mustang rear coil springs and shocks gives a comfortable ride. For a slightly stiffer suspension, replace the stock rear shocks with aftermarket units. We have found that KYB makes an inexpensive good replacement that roughly 20% stiffer than stock. For the well balanced fun to drive car, the 3-link rear suspension combined with the Factory Five custom valved Koni rear coil-over shocks work the best.
Page 516: 5-Lug (4.5"Pattern)
11”Front Spindle OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang front spindle OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 11” rotor Rotor Caliper OEM 87-93 V8 Mustang 60mm caliper 10.5”Rear Stainless Steel Brake Corp. 87-93 Mustang disc brake conversion kit (Part #A-112-1) Disc Brakes R’ Us - Select FORD and FACTORY FIVE for options 5-Lug (4.5”pattern) Master Cylinder –...
Page 517: Irs
Rotor OEM 94-98 Mustang Cobra™ 11.65” rotor Caliper OEM 94-98 Mustang Cobra™ single piston 1.4375” caliper FFR 11.65” Caliper mount brackets (FFR#14571, 14572) Bracket Master Cylinder – FFR ” Master cylinder/Proportioning valve (FFR#14739)  The rear discs are 5-lug, so vehicles need to have the front rotors converted to 5-lug to match. ...
Page 518: Superchargers
If the caliper has pistons on both sides of the rotor, disregard one side. Superchargers Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, and Powerdyne superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on.
Page 519: Helpful Reference Material
Helpful Reference Material Must Reads  www.thefactoryfiveforum.com The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful  5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. www.cartechbooks.com  Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower. By Richard Holdener. www.cartechbooks.com ...
Page 520: A Final Note About Completed Cars And Car Builders
Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.
Page 521: Appendix A - Templates
Appendix A – Templates www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
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Page 534: Appendix B - Donor Parts List
Appendix B – Donor Parts List www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 535  In some cases not all parts listed below will be necessary, but it is suggested to obtain all parts to avoid future difficulties. PART NAME CHECK Engine Engine mount, (L,R) w/nuts and bolts Starter Transmission, bell-housing, clutch, and shifter components Transmission mount w/nuts and bolts Driveshaft w/4 bolts Clutch cable w/bell-housing retaining c-clip...
Page 536: Appendix C - Race Car Check Sheet
Appendix C – Race car check sheet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 537 CAR_______________________________________ Date___________ Steering  Steering wheel tight  Universal joint set screws tight  Rack mount bolts tight  Tie rod ends tight  Tie rod to spindle bolts tight  Steering free lock to lock Front Suspension  Ride height ...
Page 538 Electrical  Battery charged  Battery mount and connections secure  Brake lights functioning  All wires free and clear of moving or hot parts Rear Suspension  Ride height  Shock mounting bolts tight  Spring collars tight/taped  Wheel bearings tight (IRS) ...
Page 539: Appendix D - Torque Specifications
Appendix D – Torque Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 540 General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...
Page 541: Appendix E - Mustang Specifications
Appendix E – Mustang Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 542: Special Version Mustangs With Specifications
Between 1996 and 1998 Ford made 125,231 GT and 28,708 Cobra™ versions of the Mustang Between 1999 and 2004 Ford made ~200,000 GT, 5,582 Bullitt, 9,652 Mach 1 and 20,727 Cobra™ versions of the Mustang. (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 2004) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Year &...
Page 543: Transmission
Transmission Torque Capacity Year Type lbs-ft Part Number Weight 1983.5 T-5 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.725 2.76 E3ZR-7003-A 1984 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.625 2.76 E4ZR-7003-DA 1985-89 T-5 3.35 1.93 1.29 1.00 0.675 3.15 E(5,6)ZR-7003-(FA,FB) 1989-93 T-5 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15...
Page 544: Rear Brakes
Rear Brakes 1987 to1993 Mustangs used a 4.25” 4-lug bolt pattern drum brake. From 1994 to 2004 Mustangs switched to have a 10.5”diameter 4.5” 5-lug bolt pattern solid rear rotor with a single piston cast iron caliper. All Cobra™ and the Cobra™ R versions of the Mustang from 1993 had an 11.65” rear vented rotors with the same calipers that the 10.5”...
Page 545: Speedometer Cable
Speedometer cable From 1983.5 to 1993 Mustangs used a mechanical speedometer with a cable which had a plastic gear c- clipped on to its end, which was inserted into the driver side of the transmission. This plastic gear is designed to translate the proper vehicles speeds that will correspond with the ratio of the gears in the rear axle.
Page 546: Exhaust Headers
measurement of all of the cylinders can be taken. All oxygen sensors are recommended to be used when placing a fuel injected engine into a Factory Five kit. Exhaust headers 1986 to 1993 Mustang headers have 1.5” tubes, and remained the same shape. From 1994 to 1995 Mustang headers still have 1.5”...
Page 547: Fuel Lines, Fuel Filter And Bracket
From 1988 to 1993 fuel pumps were 88 liters/hr., and the 1994 to 2004 pumps were 110 liters/hr. The Fuel filler neck is also a donor part required for an FFR kit.. In 1999, the tank filler hole and the filler neck changed to 1”...
Page 548: Springs
though they increased in length by approximately ¾”. This arm can also be used by following the same modifications as the 1979 to 1993 arms. There are two sets of holes on the Factory Five chassis to mount the lower control arms. The inner holes are for the 1994 to 2004 Control arms, and the outer holes are for the 1979 to 1993 arms.
Page 549 selection tips at the beginning of this manual) so more of the harness parts must be kept or the computer will need to be flashed. In 1999 Ford added to the PATS so that the gauge cluster needs to be present to start the car.
Page 550: Appendix F – Fluid Specifications
Appendix F – Fluid Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
Page 551 Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type Capacity Modifier 80W-90...

Factory Five Racing MK4 ROADSTER Assembly Manual

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