Factory Five Racing Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe Owner's Manual
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Factory Five Racing Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe Owner's Manual

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R E V I S I O N 4 B , O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7

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Summary of Contents for Factory Five Racing Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe

  • Page 1 R E V I S I O N 4 B , O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7...
  • Page 2  2017 Factory Five Racing Inc. 9 Tow Rd Wareham, MA 02571 Phone 508.291.3443 • Fax 508.291.3883...

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Contents General Information ..............11 Foreword ..................11 Safety Notice ................. 13 Safety Tips..................15 How to use This Book ..............16 What you need for all kits .............. 16 Serial Number Identification ............18 Optional part Instructions ............... 18 Tools List ..................
  • Page 4 Front Suspension ..................34 Fuel Tank ....................35 Rear End ....................36 Fuel filter and connectors ................ 37 Donor Part Preparation ..............37 Solid Axle ....................37 Front Lower Control Arms ............... 39 Fuel Filter Fittings ..................40 Fuel Tank ....................41 Fuel Filler Neck ..................
  • Page 5 Complete kit Front Brakes ..............82 Solid Axle Rear Suspension ............92 Solid Axle Preparation ................92 4 Link Rear Suspension ................97 Optional 3-Link Rear Suspension ............97 Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly ............101 Rear Axle installation ................103 4 link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart ........
  • Page 6 Complete kit Accelerator Pedal ............. 185 Cockpit aluminum ................ 190 Rivet Spacing Tool ................190 Right footbox aluminum ................ 190 Left footbox aluminum ................194 Cockpit rear wall ..................196 Cockpit floors ..................198 Drivetrain Install ................199 Frame prep .................... 200 Transmission prep .................
  • Page 7 Wiring harness ................270 Complete Kit Chassis wiring harness ........... 270 LED Flashers ................271 1987-1993 Mustang Donor Harness ............. 272 Speedometer Sending Unit ............281 Horns ................... 283 Fan Wiring ..................... 289 Driveshaft ..................291 Solid axle ....................292 2015 IRS ....................
  • Page 8 Frame preparation ............... 336 Rear body mount ................. 338 Body Mounting ................338 Locating ....................340 Rear body mount ................... 343 Side body cuts ..................346 Nose Hinge .................. 347 Nose fitment ................350 Nose gas Struts ..................352 Nose Side Locator Brackets ..............359 Hatch Hinge .................
  • Page 9 Headlights ................... 440 Turn Signals ................445 Headlight Covers ................. 448 Tail lights ..................454 License plate bracket ..............460 License plate light ................ 460 Gas Cap ..................461 Nose side mesh ................464 Rear mesh ................... 466 Headliner ..................467 Final Body Mounting ..............
  • Page 10 Alignment Specifications ............... 522 Optional Parts ................524 Performance Reference Material and Technical Support ..525 Maintenance ................526 Wheels and Tires ................. 526 Wheel specifications ................526 Performance Modifications ............528 Gears ....................528 EFI Engines ................... 529 Oil Cooler ....................530 High Horsepower Transmissions ............
  • Page 11 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 12: General Information

    Chapter General Information Foreword f you are reading this, you are embarking on a mission to build your own car, or at least considering doing so. I wanted to share with you some of my experiences and lessons learned while working with literally thousands of people who have completed this...
  • Page 13 part of the very definition of always trying to go faster. The late Carroll Smith wrote something I really loved that speaks to this point. “There is no magic! The one basic truth of successful racecar preparation bears repeating. There is no magic. There is only logic, common sense, forethought, vast amounts of hard work, and a fanatic dedication to the task at hand”.

  • Page 14: Safety Notice

    Any decision to proceed in the project of building one’s own racecar must be made with the acceptance of personal responsibility. If, while building, driving or racing this Factory Five Racing kit, should you become injured or die, it will be the result of your own conscious decision and we at Factory Five Racing, Inc., disclaim any responsibility of any kind.
  • Page 15 This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed vehicles. You are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use.

  • Page 16: Safety Tips

    Safety Tips Read the manual. It is at least a good guide and place to start. Don’t take short cuts. Before starting work, make sure you have the proper tools, the required parts, and sufficient space for the job. If you damage any parts, it will probably be because they were either not stored properly or, the wrong tool was used to install them.

  • Page 17: How To Use This Book

    How to use This Book This Assembly manual is intended to help you build your Factory Five Kit. This book will not explain such things as engine or transmission building. A secondary purpose of this book is to use it as reference for owners that want to do maintenance work on their cars or for those that purchase finished cars, to understand their cars better.
  • Page 18 Rear End: 1987-2004 Ford 8.8” rear axle. 1987-1993 width is best Paint: Most customers will send out the body and paint work to a professional body shop. Fuel pump: You are responsible for purchasing an external carbureted or fuel injected inline fuel pump. Battery: We recommend a battery sized for a Ford Mustang.

  • Page 19: Serial Number Identification

    Serial Number Identification Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 1.50”x 1.50” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit. Above is an example of how the nameplate looks. The VIN number space is provided so that your state issued VIN number can be engraved if you so desire.

  • Page 20: Tools List

    Tools List The following lists detail the tools and supplies that are needed to build your kit. The “helpful” items are not crucial to the assembly but make life easier. Home Depot HUSKY®, Sears CRAFTSMAN®, and Snap-On tools are all guaranteed for life and we’ve found them to be more reliable over discount tools. Storage shelves for kit and running gear parts Body storage area (can be outside) SAE and metric socket set, a 52-piece set that includes an 18mm is a good choice...

  • Page 21: Required Supplies

    Required Supplies Stick with name brand products like Eastwood, 3M, and Duplicolor. The Eastwood brand coatings are great for bringing weathered and oxidized parts up to show quality. PPG brand and DuPont brand paints are excellent. Engine degreaser Silicone Door and window sealant, GE Silicone II or equivalent - 4 tubes Coolant –...

  • Page 22: Donor Parts And Prep

    Chapter Donor Parts and Prep www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 23: The 5.0L Mustang

    This chapter deals with the Mustang parts needed in addition to our kit. Many people choose to use parts from a single Mustang donor. If you are not going to use a donor car but choose to acquire parts separately, this section may still be useful.

  • Page 24: Donor Parts Selection Tips

    Donor Parts Selection Tips 87-93 Mustang The following are a few tips we’ve picked up over the years when dealing with used parts. In addition to the parts that come with the kit, you have to provide the running gear and some other parts that can be taken directly off a 1987-1993 Mustang.

  • Page 25: Price

    USA West Coast All Mustang Tommy Performance Phoenix, AZ 800-454-8387 Thompson www.ampperformance.com Mustang Village Fontana, CA 909 823 7915 Scott or Tom www.mustang-village.com Cypress Auto Berkley, CA 510 451 3034 Mike Percy www.cypressautorecyclers.com/factory5.html Mustang Depot Las Vegas, NV 702 281 4517 www.mustangdepot.com Price Whether you’re buying a complete salvage yard car or a bunch of parts, it’s important to remember which parts...

  • Page 26: Disassembly Of A Mustang Donor For Parts

    to verify mileage is by inspecting the drum brake shoes on the unit. The drum pulls straight out, off the axle. Rear shoes are never really replaced until about 60-100K miles unless there was severe duty (read abuse) placed on the car. ...

  • Page 27: Radiator/Cooling System

    Radiator/Cooling System  Metric sockets, extensions, large pliers, and waste container/bucket.  Mustang radiator and fan shroud w/overflow reservoir. Refer to Appendix B.  Try to avoid spilling used coolant.  Take care when handling the Mustang radiator.  When removing the A/C system make sure that an authorized service center evacuates the Freon in your A/C system.

  • Page 28: Engine Bay Sensors And Electrical Connections

    Mustang steering rack with lines removed with rubber bushings and fasteners. Engine Bay Sensors and Electrical Connections  Socket set, combination wrenches, Phillips head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, tape, marker, and bucket.  Mustang coil, EGR assembly, vacuum lines, starter solenoid, mass air meter, and throttle cable. ...

  • Page 29: Interior

    Interior  Socket set  None. Remove the seats from the car. Remove the center consul cover the handle. Remove the carpet from the car. Computer  Socket set.  Mustang Computer and OEM plastic cradle.  If you are going to run the car with a Carburetor you can disregard the EFI wiring harness part in this section.

  • Page 30: Dash Wiring Harness

    87-93 Steering column (with ignition, turn signal stalk) Remove the steering column mounts located under the dash above the driver floor. Allow the column to fall down. Remove the wiring connectors have from the turn signal and ignition switches. Remove the turn signal stalk Dash Wiring Harness ...

  • Page 31: Front Wiring Harness

    87-93 Dash harness with air bag and fuse panel attachments. Front Wiring Harness  Socket set, extension, regular, Phillips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, hammer, and marker tape.  Front wiring harnesses. Pull the rubber grommet out of the firewall into the engine bay. Remove the front light harness from the engine bay wall working from the starter solenoid area to the alternator.

  • Page 32: Speedometer Sending Unit

    87-93 Front wiring harness with hookups for headlights, alternator, and horn. Speedometer sending unit  Socket set, duct tape.  Speedometer sending unit. Remove the wiring harness plug from the sending unit. Remove the speedometer sending unit bolt using an 11mm socket. Pull the sending unit straight out.

  • Page 33: Fuel Inertia Cut-Off Switch

    Fuel Inertia cut-off switch  Socket set, nut driver, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters to cut plastic fasteners, marker pen, and tape.  Fuel inertia cut-off switch.  It is recommended that a fuel inertia cut-off switch be used in the car. Inertia cut-off switch.

  • Page 34: Exhaust

    Store the rear harness and transmission harness. Exhaust  ” socket, socket extension, ratchet, adjustable wrench, hack saw. Wrenches,  Sensors.  Handle the Mustang Catalytic Converters with care since the honeycomb inside breaks easily. Some parts yards will want these, since they get a recycling credit for each. They are not used. Remove the rear exhaust from the H-pipe in the middle area of the car with four bolts.

  • Page 35: Front Suspension

    Attach an engine hoist to the engine lift points at the driver’s front and passenger’s rear areas of the engine. One easy way to do this is with a chain and bolt on the other side of the hole. An alternative to this is to wrap chains through the back of the engine mounts and bolt the chain together for lifting.

  • Page 36: Fuel Tank

    Lower A-arm w/bolts, brake caliper, spindle and brake rotor. Use a spring compression tool to remove the front springs or chain the spring to the chassis. Remove the three bolts that retain the struts to the top mounting plate. Slowly lower the Jack and the strut assembly will come out of the body mount (sometimes violently) and allow the lower control arm to go down.

  • Page 37: Rear End

    Remove the screws that hold the upper fuel cap and flange to the body of the car. Remove the set screw and metal ring collar retainer from the fuel neck where it meets the tank. Remove the fuel neck from the upper fuel fill area and slide the lower fuel tube out of the rubber grommet on the side of the tank.

  • Page 38: Fuel Filter And Connectors

    Use a drill with a ¼” bit to drill out the rivets on the brake bracket, which retain it to the body above the differential. Keep this bracket for use later. Fuel filter and connectors  Socket set, small flat head screwdriver, tin snips or razor knife. ...
  • Page 39 If not already done, fill the axle with gear oil. See Appendix for specifications and capacities. If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti-vibration weight under the pinion. Drill the lower control arm holes out with a ½” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 40: Front Lower Control Arms

     The lower shock mount brackets will get used on the front lower control arms to mount the front shocks Front Lower Control Arms  Hack saw, file grinder Remove the area, near the center of the spring mount to prevent damage to the coil-over unit thru any contact whatsoever.

  • Page 41: Fuel Filter Fittings

    Check clearance with the new shock and the new mount. These parts must move freely without contacting the control arm surface. Fuel Filter Fittings  Razor knife  Donor plastic fuel line fittings from fuel filter to body hard line and from return line from body hard line to fuel tank.

  • Page 42: Fuel Tank

    Fuel Tank  Pliers  Fuel Tank At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat. Fuel Filler Neck  Hack saw  Fuel Filler neck Cut the Mustang steel fuel neck in the mid-section after the 90...

  • Page 43: Alternate Drive Pulley Preparation

    Bend the fuel lines away from the engine block just at the point where they are held in place by the retaining clips. This is so that the fuel does not travel near the hot header. Don’t make tight bends here or it will affect your fuel flow.

  • Page 44: Steering Rack

    Steering Rack  ” and ⅝” wrenches, ruler, hack saw, marker. Remove the outer tie rods. Remove the inner tie rods. Cut 1.75” off the end of the inner tie rods.  If you are planning on running power steering the next steps are not needed. Remove the hydraulic lines.
  • Page 45 spark plug reveals about the engine's performance. When replacing the spark plugs, make sure you gap them before installing them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 46: Disassembly Of The Kit

    Chapter Disassembly of the kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 47: Unpacking Your Kit

    Unpacking Your Kit  Boxes are numbered, when you read your packing list you will see that next to each assembly there is a number circled. This is the box number that the assembly was packaged in. The kit is packaged in the order that you will be using the parts.
  • Page 48 Remove the duct tape from the kit. Remove the nose and rear hatch. ” socket and ratchet or ” nut driver. Unscrew the body in the door openings using a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 49 Lift in the exhaust recess and the rear wheel well. Carefully pull the front sides of the body out and up around the door hinge mounts while at the same time lifting the rear of the body. Rotate the back of the body down and the front up once the back is clear of the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 50: Area Set-Up

    Remove the body by walking towards the rear of the frame. The body can be stored on the ground outside. Area set-up  Jack stands, garage Use jack-stands to position your frame in your workspace with plenty of room to move and walk around the whole frame.
  • Page 51 Using a marker trace along each tube on the aluminum panels where they contact the chassis. If you see a spot where a drill or rivet cannot be installed due to lack of space or interference then make a small note not to drill in that area.

  • Page 52: Aluminum Panel Diagram

    Aluminum panel diagram www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 53 ITEM NO. PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION ALUM/QTY. COUPE FRAME COUPE FRAME 60195 RADIATOR DUCT BACK 60196 RADIATOR DUCT SIDE 60125 60149 - FOOTBOX OUTSIDE WALL, LEFT 60501 LEFT FOOTBOX FRONT 60132 LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE LOWER WALL 60139 FOOTBOX INSIDE UPPER WALL, LEFT 60128 60167 - COCKPIT FLOOR, LEFT 60129...

  • Page 54: Chassis Assembly

    Chapter Chassis Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 55: Steering Rack

    Steering Rack  Needle Nose Pliers, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Ratchet  Steering Rack Assembly, Steering System Hardware Unpack the Steering System Hardware. Stock Mustang power steering rack prep Push the bushing sleeves into the stock mustang rack bushings. Steering rack extensions Pull back the rubber boot on the inner tie rod and remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack.
  • Page 56 Remove the inner tie rods and put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack. Attach the steering rack extension to the steering rack using a 1.50” wrench and tighten. Put a dot of thread lock on the threads of the steering rack extension and attach the Mustang inner tie rods to the steering rack.

  • Page 57: Manual Or Optional Power Steering Rack Prep

    manual or optional power steering rack prep  Factory Five Manual and power racks are installed in a similar way. Unpack the steering rack assembly. Push the bushings into the mounting bosses on the rack. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 58 Push the bushing sleeves into the rack bushings making them as flush as possible with the surface of the bushing. Screw the grease nipple into the outer tie rod end. Thread the outer tie rod and jam nut 1”-2” down onto the steering rack inner tie rod. ...

  • Page 59: Steering Rack Install

    Steering rack install  ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, ratchet. Lower the rack into the chassis right side first. Allow the rack to drop far enough into the opening to swing the other side down into its mounting bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 60 Locate the rack between the mounting brackets. Locate the ½” x 4” steering rack bolts, washers and locknuts.  There are two sets of mounting holes, lower for standard street car ride height. Top for race car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 61: Front Suspension

    For standard street car ride height use the lower set of holes to mount the steering rack. Use a ¾” wrench and ratchet to fully tighten the steering rack. Front Suspension Front lower control arm  ⅞” socket, ”, ” wrenches, Torque wrench ...
  • Page 62 Unpack the front lower control arms and hardware. ” wrench. Screw the grease fittings into the arms using a  There are two sets of mounting holes, lower for standard street car ride height. Top for race car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 63 Position the control arms one at a time so the lower set of holes line up with the control arm bushing sleeves and insert the front mounting bolt. The rear bushing mount on the chassis is wider, use one of the large washers as a shim to take up the extra space on the backside of the rear bushing.

  • Page 64: Front Coil-Over Shocks

    While holding the arm parallel to the ground, torque the bolts to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). Front Coil-Over Shocks Coil-over Assembly  Snap ring pliers  Front shock set  The front shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired.
  • Page 65 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 66 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Front shock installation  If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars.
  • Page 67 Locate the coil-over mounting hardware in the kit. At the upper shock location using the longer 3.25” bolt and a washer thread it through the lower mounting hole in the frame and install one of the four longer (0.675”) spacers on it. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 68  If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars.  For the stock red Koni shocks, there are two sets of mounting holes, lower for standard street car ride height.
  • Page 69 Using the shorter (2.75”) bolt and shorter (0.40”) spacers repeat the process for the lower control arm mount and hand tighten the locknut to hold in place. The coil-over should now be holding the arm in place as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 70 Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. Torque the upper and lower mounting bolts for the coil-overs to 40 ft-lbs and repeat for the other side of the frame.

  • Page 71: Front Upper Control Arm

    Front upper control arm  Vise, Thread locker, ⅜”, ¾” wrench, ¾” socket, Torque wrench  IFS components Unpack the upper control arm assembly. Start threading the upper ball joints into the control arms so that the balljoint angles out on the bottom. The arms are the same side to side so they will not appear symmetrical.
  • Page 72 Use a little red Loctite on the balljoint threads. If you do not have a balljoint socket, clamp the balljoint in a vice and use the arm itself for leverage to tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 73 Screw the grease fittings in to the ball joints and tighten with a ⅜” wrench. Unpack the upper control arm mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 74 Remove one of the inner bolts from the upper control arms and wrap the cross shaft of the arm around behind the coil-over. Slide the cross shaft in between the two mounting flanges and thread the mounting bolts into place with the nuts on finger tight.

  • Page 75: Pivot Endplay

    Replace the bolt you removed to get the arm in place and flip over any remaining bolts that thread in from the bottom up so all the bolt heads are on top. Torque the two bolts that hold the arm to the frame to 135-149Nm (100-110 lbft). Pivot endplay Adjust the locknuts on the ends of the pivot shaft so that there is minimal endplay but so the pivots can still rotate easily on the shaft.

  • Page 76: Spindles

    Slightly loosen the three pivot bolts using a ⅝” and ” wrench. Loosen the jam nuts on both ends of each adjusting tubes using a 1⅛” wrench. Turn the adjusting tubes to lengthen or shorten the arm. After you have adjusted the arm to the desired length, tighten down the jam nuts against the adjusting tubes, and then tighten each of the three pivot bolts.
  • Page 77 Unpack and lay out the hardware for the spindles assembly.  The spindles are marked DSS (Driver Side Spindle) and PSS (Passenger Side Spindle). These refer to the way they are mounted on the FFR Hot Rod which is rear steer. The FFR Coupe uses these as Front steer so they are mounted opposite, The DSS spindle is mounted on the right side and the PSS spindle is mounted on the left side.
  • Page 78 Place the spacer under the castle nut to ensure that the cotter pin is at the correct height. Torque to 106-149Nm (80-110 lbft) and install the cotter pin. Attach the upper ball joint to the spindle and torque to 75 ft-lbs and install the cotter pin. ...
  • Page 79 Bolt the steering arms to the spindles so the tie rod end will mount from the bottom (the taper on the hole will open out toward the bottom) and the kink in the arm angles the arm outward toward the rotor. Torque to 60 ft- lbs.

  • Page 80: Ifs Bracket

    Using a large socket or a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet, hit the dust cap onto the hub. IFS Bracket  IFS components, Mustang strut bolts  These are not used in the complete Coupe kit www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 81: Front Suspension Torque Specs Chart

     Using the 87-93 spindles, use the hole closest to the ball joint and the third hole down. Using a 94-04 Spindles, attach the bracket using the bottom and third hole up so that the ball joint is further away from the spindle.

  • Page 82: Steering Tie Rod Ends

    Steering Tie Rod Ends Some tie rods have the nylon locknuts and others have the castle nuts with cotter pins, both are correct. Attach the tie rod to the spindle, torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. If a castle nut is used, torque the nut then install the cotter pin.

  • Page 83: Front Brakes

     If the tie rod has a locknut instead of a castle nut, torque to 80Nm (59 ft-lb). Front Brakes  Sockets, Ratchet, Torque wrench, chassis grease, rags, brake cleaner,  Mustang front brake calipers and rotors  Make sure that your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Donor Front Brakes Make sure that the hub bearings are greased correctly and adequately.
  • Page 84 Install the caliper slider pins on the caliper using the supplied bolts and a 16mm wrench and 12mm socket. Torque to 23-26 ft-lbs. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 85 Install the slider grease boots on the slider pins. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 86 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 87 In the supplied hardware bag there are six steel clips that are designed to separate the pads from the caliper. These clips allow the pads to slide on a smooth surface and not wear on the caliper. The four clips that go on the ends of the hanger are different end to end, and must be installed with the long tab facing out.
  • Page 88 The two clips that are left go in the center of the caliper with the tab sticking up through the center hole. Insert the clip from the inside of the caliper through the large center hole with the larger tab on the side facing the pistons then press down on the outer part of the clip so the small clip goes through the large hole and clips on.
  • Page 89 Push the rubber boots over the lip on the caliper bracket to seal the slider bolts correctly. Look at the back side of each brake pad to find the inside pads and the outside pads. The difference is the location of the studs that are on the back of each pad. The studs on the inside pads are out near the ends of the pad, while the studs on the outside pads are near the middle.
  • Page 90 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 91 Install the brake pads in the Caliper. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and push it onto the hub. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 92 Install the caliper on the spindle; make sure that the fluid bleeder is at the top of the caliper. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 130Nm (95 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 93: Solid Axle Rear Suspension

    Solid Axle Rear Suspension  Skip to the Independent Rear suspension if not installing a Solid axle. Solid Axle Preparation  ¾” sockets, ¾” wrench, ½” drill bit, drill, floor jack, jack stands, Torque Wrench  8.8” Rear axle assembly, Box 11 Solid axle Traction Lok brackets, Rear control arms. ...
  • Page 94 If not already done, fill the axle with gear oil. See Appendix for specifications and capacities. If using a used rear axle, remove the lower shock mounts and the anti-vibration weight under the pinion. Drill the lower control arm mount holes with a ½” drill bit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 95 Position the Traction Lok brackets on the rear end with the bolts provided (the two short bolts go on the sides). Axle Bracket left side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 96 Axle Bracket right side Temporarily put the lower shock bolt through the traction lock bracket and stock shock hole on the axle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 97 Tighten the two short bolts. Torque to 75-95 Nm (55-70 lbft). Attach the lower control arms to the brackets on the axle using the bolt provided. Torque to 101-111Nm (75-82 lbft)  The lower bolt holes provide more traction than the upper holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 98: Link Rear Suspension

    4 Link Rear Suspension  18mm sockets, ratchet, 15mm wrench  Mustang upper control arms and hardware. Attach the Mustang upper rear control arms loosely to the rear end using the Mustang hardware.  Skip the 3 Link section and continue on with the rear axle installation section. Optional 3-Link Rear Suspension ...
  • Page 99 Upper Link Axle Mount  If using the FFR Moser axle skip to the next section since the upper link bracket is welded to the axle. Test fit the two halves of the upper arm mount together. If it is hard to put all of the bolts in the mount holes, put in as many as you can then use a ½”...
  • Page 100 The front attachment of the upper link axle mount attaches to the hole on the flange section of the pumpkin. This hole has some variance and may need to be drilled out from the bottom side using the mount as a guide. Attach the front of the upper link axle mount to the front axle flange.

  • Page 101: Upper Link

    Upper Link Install a jam nut on each of the rod ends, remembering that two of them are left hand thread. Insert the rod ends into the swedged tubes (one is right hand thread and one is left hand thread). The longer tube is the Panhard bar and the shorter one is the upper link.

  • Page 102: Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly

    Rear Coil-Over Shock Assembly  Snap ring pliers.  Roadster/Coupe rear shock kit  The rear shocks are pre-valved at the factory in compression and rebound for good street use. The shocks can be adjusted in rebound as per Koni’s instructions if so desired. The rear springs are 350lb. Other springs are available for different ride characteristics.
  • Page 103 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring on the shock, then install the spring hat on the shaft end of the shock and push the rubber bumper up against it.

  • Page 104: Rear Axle Installation

    Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Use zip ties to hold the spring to the spring hat. Assembled solid axle Koni coil-over shock.
  • Page 105 Use a floor jack to position the rear axle assembly under the frame. 3-link shown.  Make sure that the rear jack stands are positioned under the frame as far back as possible to prevent the frame from tipping up once the axle is mounted ...
  • Page 106 With one person holding one side of the axle raise the axle so that the lower control arms can be bolted onto the frame. Attach the lower control arms to the frame mounts using the OEM bolts or bolts supplied with the lower control arms www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 107 Jack the rear axle up and attach the upper link(s) to the frame.  If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars. ...
  • Page 108 Attach the body end of the shock to the frame using the lower shock mount hole, two 1.09”spacers along with the ½” x 4.00” bolts and locknuts. Jack the rear axle up so the rod end of the shocks can be mounted on the axle through the shock mount hole. Right side www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 109 Left Side Install the kit ½”x 4” bolts are provided for each lower shock mount. From the rear, the bolt goes through the bracket, ⅛” shim, shock, then the long spacer (1.09”) followed by the bracket and axle. Use a ¾” socket and Torque wrench to tighten both upper and lower mounts to 40 ft-lbs.

  • Page 110: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated. 4 link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart Item Lbft Upper control arm to axle 101-111 75-82 Upper control arm to frame 101-111 75-82 Lower control arm to axle...
  • Page 111 For a 4 link car loosely mount all 4 arms and then lift axle until lower arms are flat to torque the mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 112: Solid Axle Vent

    Solid axle vent If using the FFR rear axle, attach the ¼” rubber fuel line to the vent tube on the rear axle or center section. Tie the top of the tube up high under the trunk allowing room for the axle to move. ...
  • Page 113 With the axle jacked up, attach the Panhard Bar frame mount to the inside of the quad shock brackets, the forward leg will attach to the back of the angled 2”x 3” tube. Do not tighten the quad shock bracket bolts yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 114 For the front mount, use a ½” drill bit and drill through the sleeve on the mount. Make sure before drilling that the hole is away from the side of the 2”x 3” tube so that a nut can be attached on the back of the bolt from the bottom of the tube.

  • Page 115: Panhard Bar

    Lower the rear axle.  With the rear end correctly installed with the 3-link, the rear axle will rest on the 3-link panhard bar mount with the suspension at full droop. Panhard Bar The Panhard bar mounts to the car using the ⅝”x 3” bolts and spacers. Install the Panhard bar to the right side traction lock bracket.

  • Page 116: Link Rear Suspension Torque Specs Chart

    Attach the Panhard bar to the frame mount using the spacers provided. There should never be less than ¾” of threads screwed into either the Panhard bar or the upper arm. To set the pinion angle, make sure that your ride height is where you want it, and then adjust the upper arm until the desired angle is reached.

  • Page 117: Optional Independent Rear Suspension

    Optional Independent Rear Suspension  L&R lower control arms, L&R upper control arms, Toe arms, L&R CV axles, Koni coil-over shocks, Springs, Fasteners, Driveshaft adapter  ” Drill bit, ”, ” wrenches, ”, ” 18mm Sockets, Large adjustable Philips head screwdriver, wrench –...

  • Page 118: Mustang Irs Specifications

    Mustang IRS Specifications 2.3L Eco boost 3.7L V6 5.0L Coyote Housing Steel Aluminum Steel Weight 93lb 78lb 93lb Gear Ratios 3.15:1, 3.31:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 3.15:1, 3.55:1 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 12.6" (320mm) Solid rotor, 13.0" (330mm)Vented rotor, 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston aluminum 45mm single piston iron Brakes...
  • Page 119 Mark the spindle starting at the top just to the inside of the top inside hole down to the corner of the small boss at the bottom of the ear. Use a saw to cut the ear off the spindle. If using a Sawzall or similar, use a wood blade; a 14tpi blade or finer will just get gummed up with the aluminum.
  • Page 120 Hubs  Hammer, vise, ratchet, ½”-20 lugnut, torque wrench.  Rear wheel studs.  Removal of the hub from the spindle is not necessary but can make things easier. Use a vise to lightly hold the side of the wheel stud head then use a hammer to bang out the Mustang studs. Repeat for all of the studs.
  • Page 121 Insert one of the included wheel studs into the hub from the back and use a washer and lug nut on the front side. Use a ratchet to draw the wheel stud into the hub and torque the stud to 135Nm (100lb-ft). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 122 Repeat for the other wheel studs. If the Hub was removed, use Loctite on the threads and reattach to the spindle. Torque the bolts to 133Nm (98ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 123 Center section  ” drill bit, drill. ” drill bit to chase the front mount holes on the center section. Use a Frame  Rubber/plastic mallet  Differential mounting components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 124 Bushing locations. ”) sleeves where the Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2048 and the longer (3 front of the center section will mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 125: Upper Control Arms

    Use a plastic mallet to install the polyurethane bushings marked 2123 and the shorter (2.40”) sleeves where the rear of the center section will mount. Upper control arms  Upper control arm components  Grease gun www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 126 Assemble each of the upper control arms as shown. Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves. Lower control arms  Grease gun Grease the control arms using chassis grease until the grease comes out of the flutes in the bushings next to the pivot sleeves.

  • Page 127: Installation

    Toe adjustment arms Assemble each of the toe adjustment arms as shown. Installation Center section  ” sockets, ” wrench. Rubber/plastic mallet, torque wrench, 18mm,  Differential mounting components.  Use a friend to help with the heavy center section in the next steps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 128 Use rags to protect between the front center section mount on the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 129 With the help of a friend, lift the center section nose up into the frame and over the front mount. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 130 Flatten the center section out so it is horizontal then back it up so it is above the mount locations and lower it down so the bolts can be installed. The smaller/shorter bolts are used for the rear mounts. The larger/longer bolts and nuts are used for the front mounts. Torque both the front and rear bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb).
  • Page 131 Toe Adjustment arms  IRS Toe adjustment arm components  ” socket, ” wrench, torque wrench.  If using the sway bar option, pass the bolt through the frame mount bracket when installing the toe arms. ” thick spacer in the back and the Attach the toe arms to the frame below the front lower arm mount using the ¼”...
  • Page 132 Attach the control arms to the frame with the shock mount towards the rear and spindle brackets up. Use the ”) bolts. longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). Upper control arms ...
  • Page 133 Pass the upper control arm thick tube through the triangular area as shown in between the frame mounts. Use ”) bolts. the longer M16 x 110mm (~4 Hold the arm horizontal and torque the bolts to 135Nm (100 ft-lb). CV Axle ...
  • Page 134 Using the correct axle, push the inner CV joint into the center section.  ” (~3mm) gap between the inside of the CV joint and the When fully installed there should be an center section. If necessary, compress the CV axle and with the CV axle nut on the end hit the CV axle in with a plastic mallet.
  • Page 135 Slide the spindle onto the outer CV joint and start the nut on the end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 136 Spindle to Lower arm Connect the bottom of the spindle to the lower control arm using the M16 x 90mm bolts and locknuts. Right side shown. Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 137 Spindle to Upper arm Insert the angled mount adapter into the upper arm rod end. ” washer that was on the old bolt and place it on the new ” x 4.25” bolt along with a Reuse the misalignment spacer. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 138 Attach the upper control arm to the spindle using the bolt with the misalignment spacer. ” wrench, ” socket and ratchet to tighten the locknut. Use a Wait to torque the bolts until after the other arms are installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 139 Check the angle of the upper control arm rod end, make sure that the rod end is not touching the spindle and that it is aligned with the upper control arm. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 140 Toe Link Attach the Toe link arm to the spindle using the M14 x 80mm bolt and locknut. Repeat for the right hand side. Use the torque specifications page at the back of the instructions to torque the control arm to spindle bolts. Coil-Over Shock Assembly ...
  • Page 141 Unpack the shocks, coil-over’s and hardware. Double check the jam nut under the rod end and bump stop to make sure that it is tight. Screw the spring seat down on the sleeve so it is closer to the unthreaded end. Slide the coil sleeve over the body of the damper beginning at the end which has the rubber bump stop.
  • Page 142 The coil-over hats have a snap ring which holds it in place. Remove this snap ring to assemble the coil over shock. Slide the rubber bumper about two inches down on the shaft. Put the spring and hat on the shock and rotate the spring seat back up the sleeve so that the spring pushes the hat tight against the end of the shock.
  • Page 143 Install the snap ring on the spring hat so that it holds onto the shock end. Make sure that the slot in the snap ring and the slot in the spring hat are not aligned. Attach the rod end of the shock to the upper shock mount using the two equal length 1.09” kit spacers. Torque the upper shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb).
  • Page 144 Jack the spindle up so the body end of the shocks can be mounted on the shock mount on the control arm using the longer 1.09” spacer on the back and ” spacer in front of the shock. Torque the lower shock bolt to 54Nm (40 ft-lb). Remove the floor jack.
  • Page 145 Apply Loctite to the (6) M10 x 25mm socket head screws. Attach the driveshaft adapter to the center section pinion flange and torque the bolts in a star pattern to 55Nm (41 ft-lb). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 146: Fluids

    Fluids Name Specification Motorcraft® Additive Friction Modifier (U.S.) XL-3 (U.S.) EST-M2C118-A Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL WSS-M2C942-A Fill the rear axle with fluids. Capacities Fluid Amount SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant 3.15-3.30 pt. (1.49-1.56 L) Friction Modifier 3.0-3.5 oz.

  • Page 147: Optional Irs Brakes

    ” wrench to loosen the upper control arm large jam nut and put some Once the car has been aligned, use a 1 Loctite on the threads where the jam nut will sit. Retighten the jam nut. Optional IRS Brakes ...
  • Page 148 Unpack the fuel strap fasteners. Unpack the ¾” square plastic end caps from the secondary body fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 149 Push the two plastic end caps into the tubes hanging down in front of the gas tank area. Put the Fuel tank bolts in the gas tank front frame mounts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 150: Fuel Filler Neck

    Hang the fuel tank straps from the rear mount of the chassis using two of the strap fasteners. The longer strap goes on the right side. Do not tighten the nuts Fuel filler neck  Marker, tape measure, saw, razor knife www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 151 Unpack the OEM fuel tank components including the tank and straps. Insert the large rubber filler neck gasket in the side of the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 152 Use a ruler or wall and a tape measure to measure 6.50” and 8.50” up from the bottom edge of the filler tube and mark the tube. Cut the filler tube on the two places marked. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 153: Fuel Pick-Up

    Fuel Pick-up  This install shows the set-up for a pick-up with an inline fuel pump. See www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions for in-tank fuel pump set-up. Prep  If the car will have a high horsepower fuel injected engine there are a few “tweaks” we recommend get done to the fuel pick-up.
  • Page 154 Starting with a ¼” drill bit drill out the end of the send line then change to a ” or ” drill bit, the pressed end is a little restrictive. Starting with a ¼” drill bit drill out the end of the return line then change to a ”...
  • Page 155 Install  Use the O-ring included with the kit not the square profiled O-ring sent with the pick-up Set the rubber O-ring in place for the fuel pump pickup. Slide the pickup down into the tank; you will have to rotate as you go to get the tubes into the sump and line up the tabs on the pick-up and slots on the tank.
  • Page 156 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 157: Fuel Gauge Sender

    With the pickup all the way down slide the mounting collar and tap tightly into place with a punch and hammer.  Make sure that the lock ring is held by all three locking tabs on the tank or the sender will leak. Fuel Gauge Sender ...
  • Page 158 Set the rubber O-ring in place for the fuel level sending unit. Insert the fuel level sender into the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 159 Tap the locking ring tightly into place with a punch and hammer.  Make sure that the lock ring is held by all three locking tabs on the tank or the sender will leak. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 160 Fuel Tank Vent  ¼”, ” sockets, ratchet, ” wrench, razor knife, vise. Screw the vent into the plastic bushing and tighten. Insert the small rubber vent gasket in the small hole on the top of the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 161 Push the vent into the grommet. A little oil or WD40 on the rubber gasket helps. Slide the lower filler tube section into the tank. A little oil or WD40 on the rubber gasket helps. Put masking tape over the end of the tube so that nothing drops into the tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 162 Slide the retaining bracket down the filler tube and mark its mounting location on the tank. Move the retainer out of the way and make sure your mark is outside the weld that holds the two tank halves together. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 163: Fuel Tank Install

    Drill a ¼” hole through the tank flange on the mark made. Remove the filler neck tube. Fuel Tank install  ” wrench, ” deep socket, ratchet. At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat.
  • Page 164 Put the metal tank in the plastic tank cover. With the help of a friend or using a jack in the center of the tank, raise the tank up into place on the chassis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 165: Fuel Filler Neck

    Bolt the straps in with the strap fasteners and drop the jack if used. Fuel filler neck Insert the fuel filler neck into the fuel tank. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 166: Fuel Filter

    Use the ¼”bolt and locknut to attach the retainer to the tank. Fuel filter Unpack the fuel filter and mounting hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 167 Open the hose clamp and slide it through the slots in the mount and start to tighten it back up into a hoop just bigger than the filter. Clamp the filter in place on the mount with the filter flange oriented as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 168 Attach the short nylon fuel line to the filter and the tank to show where your mounting location must be. The elbow end can attach to either end as shown here; we have attached it to the tank. Line the filter up to the chassis tube, the back of the bracket should be no more than 9 inches behind the rear shock mount tab to leave room for the splash panel.

  • Page 169: Hard Lines

    Hard lines Unpack the fuel lines and the fuel line assembly which is in the secondary chassis components box. ” line is the send fuel line to the engine. If you are running a return system then there is ¼” line The larger provided for that as well.
  • Page 170  The fuel line routing will depend on your style of fuel pump, whether it is in-line, in-tank, or mounted on the engine.  The most important things are: To route the lines so that they are protected by the chassis; not close to any heat source or moving parts;...
  • Page 171 Run the hard line up to the front of the transmission tunnel. Finish running your fuel system by hooking up either to your carburetor, fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator. Here we mounted a pressure regulator on the firewall and ran a single line over to the rail. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 172: Vent Hose

    Connect the return line to the fuel tank. Vent hose Attach a 25” section of ” fuel line and fuel line clamp onto the vent then run the vent hose down to the tube near the vent and attach it to the tube using a zip tie. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 173: Pedal Box

    Pedal Box  ”, ½” sockets, ratchet, ¼”, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, ”, ¼” drill bits, drill, Philips head screwdriver, ” Hex Key, snap ring pliers  Pedal Components, pedal box hardware.  This pedal box is set-up to use either a hydraulic clutch or a cable clutch. The parts and instructions required for a cable clutch installation are included below.
  • Page 174 Repeat the marking for the switch in front of the clutch pedal. ” drill bit. Drill the two holes you have marked out with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 175 Attach the switch mounts to the pedal box using the black #10 screw and locknut. Connect the switches to the switch mount using a hex nut on each side of the mount bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 176: Clutch Cable Quadrant

    Clutch Cable Quadrant  ”, ” hex keys, ½”, ” wrenches, ½” socket, ratchet, file, external snap ring pliers. Assemble the clutch quadrant to the Wilwood clutch pedal as shown above. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 177 Use snap ring pliers to remove the clevis at the top of the clutch pedal. ” bolt can go through the clutch pedal hole. If necessary use a file to remove the forging centerline so the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 178: Frame Installation

    Frame Installation  ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, ¼” drill bit, drill, ” hex key Pedalbox left side mount. Place the pedal box assembly in the driver’s footbox. Make sure that the left side of the pedalbox sits on top of the frame mount and the right side goes on top of the front mount and under the rear mount as shown above.
  • Page 179 ” Button head screws, locknuts, ” hex key Attach the Wilwood pedals to the mounting brackets using four and ½” wrench. Attach the 60193 pedalbox top mount to the top of the pedalbox using the stainless ¼” x 0.50” flange head ”...
  • Page 180 Drill through the 1” frame tube through the bracket mounting holes using a ¼” drill bit. Attach the pedalbox mount to the tube using the ¼” x 1.25” bolts and nuts along with a ” socket, ratchet and wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 181: Master Cylinders

    Master Cylinders  6mm socket, ½” deep socket, ratchet, ½” wrench, saw  Master cylinders ” off each of the master cylinders. With the jam nut on the threaded shaft, cut Screw the 90° brake line adapter into the end of the master cylinder making sure that the opening points up when tight.
  • Page 182 Put one the ¾” master cylinder onto the brake left master cylinder mount location and turn the threaded shaft into the threaded mount on the brake pedal. As a starting point, thread the shaft in until you can see it is flush on the other side of the mount.
  • Page 183 Attach and tighten the locknuts using a ½” wrench and ½” deep socket holding the master cylinder to the pedal box then repeat for the other master cylinder. Put the plastic angled inlet adapter with hose clamp on the master cylinders. Use a 6mm socket and ratchet to tighten the hose clamp.

  • Page 184: Balance Bar Adjustment

    Tighten all the remaining hardware mounting the pedal box to the chassis. Balance Bar adjustment The balance bar is an adjustable lever (usually a threaded rod), that pivots on a spherical bearing and uses two separate master cylinders for the front and rear brakes. Most balance bars are part of a pedal assembly that also provides a mounting for the master cylinders.

  • Page 185: Accelerator Pedal

    Lever movement should be unimpeded throughout pedal travel. In the neutral position, clevises should have between .20” - .25” total clearance between the side of the pedal. The large washers between the pedal and clevis should remain loose. Make sure that the master cylinder pushrods remain true in relationship to the cylinder during entire pedal travel;...

  • Page 186: Complete Kit Accelerator Pedal

    Check the full range of the accelerator pedal travel to ensure that there are no interferences with the pedal or travel. Complete kit Accelerator Pedal  ” hex key, ⅜”, ”, ½” wrenches, wire cutter, ¼” drill bit, drill, marker, masking tape. ...
  • Page 187 Attach the ball stud to the accelerator pedal. Use one ¼”x ¾” screw and locknut from the pedal box hardware position the accelerator pedal so that the pedal pad is at a comfortable height on your foot and there is still room at the top of the accelerator pedal on the front of the footbox for the accelerator cable to come through.
  • Page 188 Bolt the pedal to the mount plate using the ¼”x ¾” screws and locknuts. Rotate the pedal so the top of the pedal where the accelerator cable will attach is 1.50” away from the front of the footbox and mark the front of the footbox directly in front of the ball stud. ”...
  • Page 189 Unpack the throttle cable and cut the cylinder end off. Make sure your cutters are very sharp so as not to fray the cable. Pull the inner cable completely out of the sheath and thread it through hole in the top of the throttle pedal and then the cable retaining lock nut from the accelerator cable components assembly.
  • Page 190 Route the cable through the hole in the firewall and slide the sheath back over the cable. Tighten the cable sheath to the firewall with the retaining nut. A piece of tape on the end of the cable will help prevent it from backing out of the sheath.

  • Page 191: Cockpit Aluminum

    Cockpit aluminum Rivet Spacing Tool  Packaged Aluminum In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾”...
  • Page 192 Apply silicone to the backside of the panels or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact. Locate and hold the right footbox aluminum panels (inside, front and outside) using the kit # 8 screws originally holding the aluminum to the frame.
  • Page 193 ” drill bit. Drill through the rivet holes in the footbox front aluminum into the frame tubes using a Rivet the panel to the frame. Drill and rivet the inside footbox aluminum panels. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 194 Run a bead of silicone along the inside bottom of the footbox. Silicone. drill and rivet the outside footbox aluminum panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 195: Left Footbox Aluminum

    Silicone, drill and rivet the right door hinge inside cover to the frame. Left footbox aluminum  ¼” nut driver, drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool.  Secondary body fasteners, kit aluminum.  Do not rivet the panels together until everything fits together in the correct location. Apply silicone to the backside of the panels or chassis (whichever is easier) in the areas where they will make contact.
  • Page 196 Locate and hold the left footbox front aluminum panel using the kit # 8 screws originally holding the aluminum to the frame. Locate and hold the left footbox inside top aluminum panel using the kit # 8 screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 197: Cockpit Rear Wall

    Locate and hold the left footbox inside bottom aluminum panel using the kit # 8 screws. ” drill bit. Drill through the rivet holes in the aluminum into the frame tubes using a Rivet the panels to the frame. Do not attach the outside panel yet. Cockpit rear wall ...
  • Page 198 Silicone the rear cockpit wall frame tubes. Use the #8 screws to hole the panel in place then drill and rivet the cockpit rear wall to the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 199: Cockpit Floors

    Cockpit floors Silicone the tubes under the main floor areas. Set the floors in place. Use the #8 screws to hole the panel in place then drill and rivet the floors in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 200: Drivetrain Install

    Riveted floors. Drivetrain Install  If installing a Coyote engine, check our parts catalog www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/ for install instructions. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 201: Frame Prep

    Frame prep On the right engine mount sand or grand any coating away around one of the hole shown above for the engine ground strap. Transmission prep  13mm, ¾” sockets, ratchet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 202 Remove the shifter handle for easier install using a 13mm socket and ratchet. Put masking tape over the hole. If not already attached, attach the transmission mount to the transmission using a ¾” socket and ratchet. 6speed Magnum shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 203: Engine Prep

    Engine Prep  Engine hoist, chain, ¾”, ” sockets, ratchet, extension  Engine, Engine mounts, engine ground strap.  The easiest method to install the drivetrain is with the engine and transmission already bolted together and lowered in as a unit. Also remove anything that will make your job easier (shifter assembly, headers, power steering pump, etc…).

  • Page 204: Oil Filter Relocator

    Attach the engine ground strap (electrical completion parts for complete kit) to one of the engine mount bolts. Tighten all of the engine mount bolts. 87-95 Oil Filter Relocator  ⅞” wrench, razor knife, Teflon tape, chassis grease, ⅜” hex key ...
  • Page 205 Place the O-ring in the adapter groove.  If the O-ring will not seat properly, put it in the freezer for 15 minutes and use a small amount of chassis grease to hold it in place while spinning on the adapter. Tighten ½ turn after solid resistance is felt. The outlets for the hoses should be facing towards the front of the engine.
  • Page 206 Use Teflon tape on the threaded barbs and thread them into the oil filter relocator. Thread the short end of the threaded nipple into the relocator.  Mount the oil filter relocator on the frame after the engine has been installed . www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 207: Engine/Transmission Installation

    Engine/Transmission Installation  ” socket, ratchet and extension. Engine hoist, chain, 2-3 friends, Attach engine hoist chain to the engine. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 208 Lower the engine and transmission into place. The more hands you have to help the better. Go very slowly. ” socket, extension and ratchet. Make sure the Install the engine mount to chassis nuts and tighten using a alignment pins on the mounts are in the holes on the chassis pads. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 209: Transmission Mount

    Transmission Mount  ”, ¾” sockets, ratchet, floor jack  Transmission mount/hardware Use this transmission mount orientation for 302/351 with TKO applications and all 6-speed applications. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 210: Engine Ground

    Use this transmission mount orientation for the Coyote with TKO application Jack the transmission up and place the transmission mount on top of the frame mount in the correct orientation. From the top pass the carriage bolts through the transmission mount plate and frame mount and hand tighten the locknuts on.

  • Page 211: Steering Shaft

    ” x 1” stainless button head screw, locknut, ” hex key, ½” Attach the ground strap to the frame using a socket and ratchet (complete kit only). Steering Shaft  ”, ” hex keys, ½”, ” wrenches, marker, drill, ” drill bit, Philips head screwdriver. ...
  • Page 212  87-93 Power steering racks have a different spline than a manual steering rack and the 94-04 Power rack uses a “Pyramid” shaped end. All of these lower adapters are available from FFR.  If running power steering, do not change the splined adapter; skip the next step two steps. Remove the splined adapter from the end of the steering shaft.
  • Page 213 Loosen the set screw, align the set screw with the flat side on the input shaft then slide the new adapter down onto the rack as far as possible. Slide the 1” flange bearing onto the upper shaft so that the locking collar is on the upper steering shaft side as shown.
  • Page 214 From the engine bay side insert the steering shaft into the footbox and mount the flange bearing to the footbox front with the set screw toward the inside of the footbox. Both sides of the flange mount to the front side of the ”...

  • Page 215: Upper Steering Shaft

    Loosely mount the top pillow block to the chassis underside of the chassis mount with the set screw toward the ” x 1.25” stainless button head screws, locknuts, ” hex key and rear of the car using the 60103 spacers, the ½”...
  • Page 216 Turn the steering shaft so the recessed bosses for the spring washers are facing up and set the washers in place. Then tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft. Line up the steering shaft and adapter and push the rack adapter onto the steering shaft. Tighten the upper and lower bearing mounting bolts.

  • Page 217: Clutch Cable

    Tighten the set screws on both the upper and lower bearings. Clutch Cable Slide the clutch cable boss through the front of the driver footbox. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 218 Hook the clutch cable over the quadrant. Attach the clutch cable to the front of the footbox using the small #8 screw provided and ¼” wrench. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 219 Route the clutch cable down to the bellhousing. Make sure that the cable is clear of the hot exhaust header and the steering shaft or the cable may fail prematurely. Connect the clutch cable to the bellhousing and the clutch fork. Thread the cable end adjuster nut on so that the cable has no play in it.

  • Page 220: Accelerator Cable

    Accelerator Cable  Accelerator cable components, insulated clip hardware  The cable design is set up for a 96-04 4.6L Mustang engine with an OEM pedal but, using the supplied ball studs and retainers it can be adapted for all applications. Cut the barrel fitting off the end of the cable.

  • Page 221: Carbureted Applications

    Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the intake using ⅜” and ” wrenches and push the cable wiper onto the remaining threads. There is a ball stud and retainer in the accelerator cable components to help attach to the throttle body on 87-93 applications.

  • Page 222: Cable Adjustment

    ” hex Push and twist the ball stud retainer onto the end of the cable and attach the ball stud retainer using a key. Attach the engine end of the cable sheath to the cable mount on the engine using ⅜” and ”...
  • Page 223 Unpack the hardware from the brake line components.  The upper left laser cut pieces and the brake line adapter parts in the picture above are for the stock Mustang flexible brake lines. The small black screws are for the e-brake boot If building the complete kit, unpack the remaining hardware from the front brake assembly.

  • Page 224: Left Front

    Lay out the various lengths of brake line so you can see what you have to work with. Like the fuel lines, there are many ways to run these lines but you must be very careful to keep them protected from moving parts, heat, or being too close to the bottom of the car.
  • Page 225 Run the brake line down the 1.50” tube to the bottom frame tube then up the front side of the angled rear suspension tube. ” rivets to hold the brake line in When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and place.
  • Page 226 Connect the brake line “T” adapter to the end of the brake line. The line will bend very easy but be careful not to kink it. Left flexible brake line The laser cut flexible brake line brackets attach to the rear angled chassis tube on the left front suspension. Drill ”...

  • Page 227: Front Right

    Front right From the “T” fitting run a 60” brake line down the 1.50” tube, forward to the front of the frame and over to the right side of the frame. Run along the 1.50” tube behind the lower control arm and up the rear angled 1.50” tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 228 ” rivets to hold the brake line in When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and place. Like the left side, push the flexible brake line through the bracket from the outside in, rivet the bracket in place and screw the flexible line onto the brake line fitting and tighten.

  • Page 229: Rear Brake Line

     Make sure that your flex lines will not interfere with anything in the suspension, wheels during travel or turning full lock to lock. Rear brake line ”) master cylinder run a 60” brake line towards the center of the car then to the rear of the From the right ( inside footbox panel.

  • Page 230: Stock Rear Brakes

    At the back of the inside footbox, run down the 1” transmission tunnel tubes to the bottom 1.50” tube then to the back of the transmission tunnel. Stock rear brakes  At this point your routing will depend on your rear brakes. 87-95 Mustang solid axles have a single flex line that runs to the middle of the axle then out to the calipers.

  • Page 231: Irs Brakes

    Attach the brake line to the Mustang mount. ” rivets to hold the brake line in When you are happy with the routing use the small insulated line clips and place. IRS brakes At the back of the tunnel connect the 3 way female “T” adapter and an 8” brake line up the left rear tube. Off the other leg of the “T”...
  • Page 232 Push the flexible brake line through the bracket from the outside in, screw the flexible line onto the brake line fitting, tighten by hand. Use channel lock pliers to install the clip that holds the flexible brake line in place. ”...

  • Page 233: Banjo Bolt Torque Specs

    At the end of the 20” line use a brake line union and an 8” brake line up the right side of the frame. Like the left side, push the flexible brake line through the bracket from the outside in, screw the flexible line onto the brake line fitting and tighten.
  • Page 234 reservoirs, one for each master cylinder. Additional reservoirs can be purchased at www.factoryfiveparts.com Unpack the master cylinder reservoir fittings and the reservoir kit from the pedal-box assembly. Screw in the hose barb. Loosely screw the mounting bracket onto the reservoir. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 235 Decide where to mount the brake reservoir, it can go behind the engine (depending on the engine being used) or mount to the front of the footbox. Keep the reservoir high enough so that the lid is higher than master cylinder. This picture shows a coyote engine with placement on the firewall behind the engine.
  • Page 236 Decide the routing of your reservoir to master cylinder hose and drill a ½” hole through the aluminum for the bulkhead fitting. The fitting is slightly larger than ½” so wiggle the ½” bit around to oversize it. ” and ”...
  • Page 237  Make sure to put the hose clamps on the hose before pushing onto the barb, it is hard to get the hose off the barb after. Route the hose from the reservoir to the bulkhead fitting, push a hose clamp onto the hose then onto the barb. Tighten using a 7mm socket and ratchet.
  • Page 238 From the bulkhead route to the master cylinders splitting it using the Y provided. Make sure that the line cannot get in the way of moving parts. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 239: Emergency Brake

    Fill the system with DOT 3 fluid and bleed being very thorough in checking for leaks. Emergency Brake E-brake Handle  ”, ” hex keys, ”, ½” wrenches, channellock pliers, WD-40  E-brake handle assembly, brake line components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 240 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 241 Unpack the emergency brake handle components. Some parts are not used for the Coupe application Push a nylon bushing into one side of the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 242 Push the other bushing into the other side of the fixed gear. From the right side of one of the Handle to ratchet mounts, insert the shoulder bolt through the ratchet mount and then the fixed gear. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 243 Put the other ratchet to handle mount on shoulder bolt from the other side of the fixed gear. ” hex key and ½” wrench, tighten the shoulder bolt lock nut so that the ratchet to handle mount plates Using a are against the bushings but they can still move up and down.
  • Page 244 Slide the lower handle between the ratchet to handle mount plates and bolt the three pieces together using the ”x 1” button head screws. Put the ratchet tooth on the long anchor bolt as shown in the picture below. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 245 Rotate the fixed gear out of the way and pass the anchor bolt up through the lower handle. Rotate the ratchet tooth between the handle to ratchet mount plates and align the mount holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 246 Push the included spring pin through the ratchet mount plates and the ratchet tooth using a pair of channel lock pliers. Slide the 1” nylon spacer onto the end of the anchor bolt.  There are two nylon spacers included. They provide preload on the spring so there is more force holding the ratchet tooth to the fixed gear and making the release button harder to push.
  • Page 247 Spray a little WD-40 on the lower handle threads and screw the upper handle onto the lower handle. Insert the spring into the upper handle over the anchor bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 248 Screw the button onto the end of the anchor bolt. Screw the male and female rod ends together. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 249 Use a wrench to spread the ears of the ratchet to handle mounts so that the rod end can just slide between them. Slide the male rod end between the ratchet to handle mount plates and attach it using the ¼” flange head bolt and locknut.

  • Page 250: Cables

    ”x 1” button head bolts. Attach the handle to the frame using the Cables If there is a rubber washer on the end with the clip (frame end) of the cable shown, remove the rubber washer. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 251 Check the fit of the emergency brake cable end in the brake cable clevis. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 252 If necessary, use a drill bit and drill or a Dremel tool to open up the slot slightly. Push one of the cables through the bracket in the transmission tunnel until the sheath end clicks in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 253 Push the second cable into the frame bracket. Solid Axle Route the cables back to the calipers and attach. Make sure your routing is out of the way of any moving parts and the cable has slack to move with the axle. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 254 On the end of the Emergency brake cable sheath with no clip on, pull/push the cable so that 3” of cable sticks out of the sheath. From the bottom, insert the cable through the hole in the brake caliper. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 255 Push the end of the sheath into the hole. The end of the sheath may or may not bottom on the flange. It is normal for the sheath to look like the picture, the end is being held in place and cannot move. Move the end of the cable around the spring bracket so it will be captured.
  • Page 256 Push the cable so that the end of the cable sits on the spring bracket. Route the cable back behind the shock and towards the middle of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 257 Route the cable up over the center section and to the bracket in the transmission tunnel. Wilwood IRS E-brake adapter www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 258: Handle And Cable Adjustment

    Insert the cable end into the bent bracket then bolt the bracket to the e-brake lever. Handle and Cable Adjustment Put the clevis brackets onto the end of the cables. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 259 Squeeze the ends of the clevis’ with a pair of pliers. Facing the cable slots towards each other, attach one of the cable clevises to each side of the female rod end using the ¼”x 1.50” socket head bolt and locknut. Leave the locknut loose for now. Slowly pull up on the handle to set the brake pads and remove any slack from the brake cables.
  • Page 260 Release the brake and if necessary remove the ¼” clevis bolt and readjust the rod end so that the cable is tight. Reinstall the clevises and ¼” bolt then tighten the bolt so that the clevis ends are closed, this will prevent the cable ends from coming out.

  • Page 261: Battery Mounting And Cable

    Battery Mounting and Cable  ”, ¼”, ” drill bits, rivet gun, marker, ” deep socket, ratchet, ½” wrench, ” hex key. Drill,  Secondary Body fasteners, Battery/Tray components, Insulated clip hardware, misc. electrical components, battery, electrical system completion components (complete kit only) Battery tray Unpack the Battery/Tray components.
  • Page 262 Mark the corners of the battery on the tray. Drill (4) ¼” holes through the tray and 1” tubes in the front and the 1.50” cross tube so that the holes are outside where the battery will sit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 263 Remove the battery tray and on the 1” tube that is on the side of the negative post, remove any coating for the ground cable to connect. Use one or two of the ¼” washers between the battery tray and the frame on the side of the positive post, and the ground cable on the negative side.
  • Page 264 Use the ¼” x 2.25” bolts through the 1.50” tube and the ¼” x 1.75” bolts through the 1” tubes. Bolt from the ” wrench, socket and ratchet. bottom up using a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 265 Place the battery on the tray with the crossbar hold-down. Insert the J bolts through the battery tray and up through the hold-down. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 266: Battery Cable

    Bolt the hold-down to the tray using the ¼” washers, locknuts, ” deep socket and a ratchet. Battery cable Attach the positive battery cable to the battery. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 267 Run the battery cable down the right 1.50” tube to the starter attaching it to the frame using the ” clamps and ” rivets. Attach the battery cable to the battery post on the starter. Leave the ground cable off until after the wiring harness is installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 268: Oil Filter Relocator

    Oil Filter Relocator  Razor knife, flathead screwdriver  Oil filter relocating kit, oil, oil filter  This is needed for pushrod 302/351 engines running shorty headers and J pipes only. The coyote engine uses different exhaust and a different oil filter. Hook the oil lines up to the Oil filter Relocator and the adapter on the engine.
  • Page 269 The finished firewall will sit with the windshield support flange facing toward the front of the car. Run a bead of silicone down the top of the frame tube the firewall sits on top of and lower it into place. The bottom flange faces toward the rear of the car and the top windshield flange faces forward.

  • Page 270: Trans Tunnel Top Front

    Drill and rivet the firewall to the frame so that the firewall is flush with the front of the tube. (upper flange not shown) Trans tunnel top front Position the Trans tunnel top front aluminum panel, it can be used to pass wires through. Once the wiring is done, rivet in place.

  • Page 271: Wiring Harness

    Wiring harness Complete Kit Chassis wiring harness The chassis wiring harness controls everything for the car except the engine. Route the front and rear harness through the transmission tunnel top front panel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 272: Led Flashers

    Attach the ground cable to the battery. LED Flashers  Misc. Electrical Components Locate the electronic flashers in the kit pack. These must be used instead of the standard flashers because of the LED rear lights. The flashers are located on the fuse block for the flasher and turn signal. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 273: 1987-1993 Mustang Donor Harness

    Make sure to ground the flashers. 1987-1993 Mustang Donor Harness  ⅜” socket, regular head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, ⅛”, ” drill bits, drill, #8 nut driver, electrical tape, wire cutters.  Misc. electrical components, wiring harness mounting hardware, insulated clip hardware ...
  • Page 274 This is the harness layout using the stock Mustang wiring harness only, not the optional chassis harness. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 275: Rear Harness

    Rear Harness Run rear harness from the driver foot box inside wall, along inside the transmission tunnel straight back to the rear of the frame. Use zip ties, insulated line clips, and the wire loom to hold the wires and battery cable. At the rear of the frame, run the wires low on the frame so that they are accessible after the body is mounted to the frame.

  • Page 276: Transmission Harness

    Transmission Harness Run the harness up into the top of the foot box to its connector. Make sure that it does not get in the way of the steering shaft or accelerator pedal. Use the drilled holes and the zip tie trick to keep the harness in the corner along the floor.

  • Page 277: Dash Harness

    By removing the tape from the harness under the radiator, overlapping the wires, re-taping and using the loom material provided, a cleaner looking harness can be made. Attach the harness to the channel on the bottom of the radiator using zip ties. Dash Harness Dash harness Lay out your wires to find the best location to drill a hole for the large grommet.
  • Page 278 Old Starter New Starter When the wire harness is installed, mount the fuse panel to the 1.50” square tube going across the car in the left footbox. Leave the headlight and hazard switches hanging for now. Attach the harness across the 1.50” square tube, using the insulated line clips. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 279: Engine Harness

    Engine Harness  ⅜” socket, regular head screwdriver, slip joint pliers, ” and ⅛” drill bits, drill, #6 nut driver, electrical tape, wire cutters.  Mustang engine harness, engine harness assembly  If you are running a carbureted engine you do not need this section. ...
  • Page 280 Alternatively, the computer can be mounted to the inside of the right footbox. Use the drilled holes and cable tie trick to hold the extra harness to the top of the passenger foot box. The harness splits into two on top of the foot box. The short, smaller harness goes forward and connects to the mass air sensor and to the harness on the engine for the O sensors and oil level sender.

  • Page 281: Ignition And Turn Signal Stalk

    Computer ground near driver’s foot box Ignition and Turn signal stalk  ” socket, ” drill bits, drill. Hack saw,  Misc. Electrical Components, Mustang ignition switch and turn signal stalk.  The turn signal stalk can be cut shorter so that when it’s mounted it will not protrude past the dash lip. If you want to cut the stalk length, do it after the dash is installed and you have sat in the car to see if it is needed.

  • Page 282: Speedometer Sending Unit

    Cut the mustang plug in half using a pair of wire cutters or remove the female connectors from the housing and connect to the correct terminals on the switch. Speedometer Sending Unit  11mm deep socket, ratchet, wire crimping tool ...
  • Page 283 Install the gear on the end of the sender and hold it in place with the clip. Put a little oil on the o-ring and install the sender in your transmission. Use the original bolt to hold the sending unit in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 284: Horns

    Connect the plug and plug it into the sender. If you are running fuel injection you may also need to send this signal to the computer as well depending on your system. Horns  ” hex key, drill, ” drill bit, ”...
  • Page 285 Attach one horn to the included bracket using one of the 14mm lock washers and nuts included. Note the orientation of the wire connectors when tightening the bracket so that it will be correct when installed. The flat horn outlet is pointed right. Mounting brackets on the horns www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 286 Holding the horns the connectors should be spaced so that the wires will not hit each other. Locate the chassis harness horn wires on the front chassis harness. Cut 2” off the end of the chassis harness horn ground wire and strip the end of the chassis harness ground wire. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 287 Twist the chassis harness ground wire and small wire ground together and insert them into one of the ¼” female connectors included then crimp the connector on. Cut the same 2”off the green horn power wire and strip the ends of both wires. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 288 Twist the chassis harness green wire and small wire ground together and insert them into one of the ¼” female connectors included with the horns then crimp the connector on. Attach the chassis harness horn wires to one horn and push the jumper wires on to the other horn. Either connector on the horn will work.
  • Page 289 Locate the horns on the frame so that the wires are not too tight. This picture show the 1.50” tube coming down ” mounting hole. from the footbox and drill a ” hole so the horns will not Attach the two horns to the frame using a supplied #14 screw. Then drill a second rotate.

  • Page 290: Fan Wiring

    Attach the second #14 screw. Fan Wiring  Wire crimp tool  Fan mounting components, dash electrical components  There are a few ways to run the electric fan. The kit includes a relay, wiring, and a thermostat switch to get used with the relay to turn the fan on and off at 185°F.
  • Page 291 Locate a coolant access point in your engine block or cylinder head to install the thermostat switch and thread it Ground the black electric fan wire to the frame. Connect the other electric fan wire to the #87 tab on the fan relay. Attach the #85 ground tab to the thermostat switch.

  • Page 292: Driveshaft

    Driveshaft  14mm wrench, thread lock  Driveshaft  Base kit - If not already done, the driveshaft should be shortened to the length specified in the appendix for the engine/transmission combination being used. Unpack the driveshaft and slip it up into the rear of the transmission. The most room to do this is usually to hold the shaft just above the center section and come in from the driver’s side.

  • Page 293: Solid Axle

    Solid axle The driveshaft bolts are in the box with the driveshaft and should have thread locker on them already. If thread lock is not there, put a small bead on each bolt. Fit the driveshaft snug against the yoke and install the bolts and tighten. You can put the transmission in gear to stop the driveshaft from turning while you tighten.

  • Page 294: 2015 Irs

    2015 IRS Bolt the rear flange to the driveshaft adapter and torque the bolts to 109Nm (80 ft-lb). Cooling System  Marker, Hack saw, Insulated Clip hardware, Drill, ¼” drill bit, ” Hex key, ”, ½” wrenches, ruler, flathead screwdriver, razor knife. ...

  • Page 295: Aluminum Duct

    Aluminum Duct Silicone, drill and rivet the radiator duct back to the frame. Silicone, drill and rivet the radiator duct sides to the duct back and the nose hinge support tubes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 296: Fan Mounting

    Fan Mounting Unpack the fan and push the four mounting brackets into the angled tab mounts. Center the fan on the radiator and mark the brackets to trim off the excess. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 297: Radiator Mounting

    Remove and trim the brackets then bolt the assembly together using the hardware provided. Make sure and tighten the hardware that came pre-installed on the mounts. Radiator Mounting Use a razor knife and slit the 8.5” long sections of fuel line lengthwise. Push the slit sections of fuel line onto the lower radiator frame mounts at the front of the frame and trim off any extra.
  • Page 298 Slide the cut rubber tubing over the radiator mount and install the radiator from above the frame. Attach some half-moon stick on weather stripping to the underside of the radiator top mount bracket. Position the top mount bracket so that the small tab sticking up is on the rearward side of the bracket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 299: Radiator Hoses

    Pass the mounting tabs through the holes in the side aluminum pieces. Drill the holes to mount the radiator top mount bracket to the two 1” nose tubes on the chassis. ” x 1.5” button head screws, locknuts, washers, Attach the radiator top mount bracket to the frame using the ”...
  • Page 300 Unpack the stainless radiator hose kit and remove the hose connectors from the boxes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 301 Use the smaller sections of tube inside the adapters to fit them to smaller fittings on the radiator and intake. Then fit the larger adapters over them. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 302 Upper radiator hose Starting at the engine, attach the inline filler to the engine exit. Attach stainless tube to the inline filler then route the tube under the angled frame tube and through the aluminum radiator duct hole to the upper radiator hose location. Mark the tube where it needs to be cut so that the tube will just touch the attaching location.
  • Page 303 Lower radiator hose Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator. Run the tube under the lower control arm mount and attach the stainless hose to the end using an adapter then to the engine. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 304: Overflow Tank

     After running the car for the first time once coolant is added and while the system is still warm, retighten the hose clamps used on the cooling system. Overflow Tank Unpack the overflow assembly. Bolt the mounting tabs loosely onto the tank so they can be slid around to fit. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 305 Pick the mounting location for the tank and mark the holes. Make sure the tank is accessible and visible inside to check the level on the finished car then bolt it in place. Mount the overflow tank to the frame/aluminum. Attach the larger radiator hose to the inline filler.
  • Page 306 Use the adapter and attach the smaller hose and route the overflow hose to the overflow tank. Make sure you attach the hose to the tube that runs off the bottom of the tank and not the one that extends up into the tank.

  • Page 307: Aluminum Panels

    Aluminum panels  ” drill bit, Silicone, Caulking gun, Rivet gun Drill,  Roadster Secondary Body Fasteners Components, Packaged Aluminum, mounted aluminum Trans tunnel sides aluminum Drill and rivet the cockpit transmission side aluminum panels in place. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 308: Transmission Tunnel Cover

    Transmission Tunnel Cover Silicone and install the transmission tunnel top. Cockpit rear inside aluminum  ¼” nut driver, drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool.  Secondary body fasteners, kit aluminum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 309 Silicone, drill and rivet the inside cockpit corner aluminum panels to the frame. Silicone, drill and rivet the driveshaft cover aluminum panel to the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 310: Left Outside Footbox Aluminum

    Left outside footbox aluminum  ¼” nut driver, drill, ” drill bit, rivet tool.  Secondary body fasteners, kit aluminum.  Make sure all of the clutch/brake switches and any other pedal adjustments are done before install. Silicone, drill and rivet the left footbox outside aluminum panel to the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 311: Left Door Hinge Inside Covers

    Left door hinge inside covers Silicone, drill and rivet the left door hinge inside cover to the frame. Hatch floor  ” drill bit, silicone, rivet gun, caulk gun.  Mounted Aluminum, Packaged Aluminum, secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 312 Start with the hatch floor front panel. Silicone and rivet in place. To install, put the right side in as far as possible. “S” the panel so that the middle right side can clear the rollbar. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 313 Bow the left side to get the left side to clear the rollbar. Final panel installed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 314: Under Door Aluminum

    Insert, silicone and rivet the rear panel in place. Under door aluminum  ” drill bit, silicone, rivet gun, caulk gun.  Packaged Aluminum, secondary body fasteners www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 315: Exhaust

    Silicone drill and rivet in the under door aluminum panels. Exhaust Headers and J-pipes  ”, ” wrenches, ” socket, ratchet, extension, ” hex key www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 316  Headers or straight tubes and shorty headers. Mount the headers to the engine. If you are using full length headers they bolt in place with the gaskets and hardware provided. Thread locker is recommended. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 317 If you are using Shorty headers or stock manifolds bolt them back on. On a small block (302 or 351) the headers are switched side to side and on the Coyote the headers also face forward If you are using the J-pipes bolt them to the headers. The shorter pipe will go on the passenger side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 318: Side Exhaust

    Side Exhaust  ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill, ”, ” drill bits  Side Exhaust Bolt the mounting bracket to the pipe on the forward side of the bracket. Bolt the pipe and gasket to the header or J-pipe with using the shorter ⅜” bolts and mechanical locknuts. ”...
  • Page 319 Position the lap harnesses make sure to have the red release handle on the right side of the seat. Bolt the lap harnesses to the frame. Inside mount (left), outside mount (right). www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 320 Remove the mounting tab from the harness. Loop the harness over the roll bar crossbar. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 321  The shoulder harnesses are side specific so make sure you have the sides correct. Follow the manufacturer’s directions inside the seat harness boxes on how to loop the harness straps through the slider bracket. Adjust the harnesses to where they fit you comfortably. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 322: Seats

    Seats  ” drill bit, drill, ” hex key, ½” deep socket, marker  Seat mount hardware, seats Unpack the seats and set them in the cockpit. Sit in the seats and locate them in the position you are most comfortable. This is a critical fitment so take your time and make sure you are happy with the location.

  • Page 323: Nameplate

    Secondary body fasteners, certificate of origin envelope  Factory Five Racing has included a Certificate of Origin along with a Nameplate for your kit. The serial number from the Certificate of Origin matches the number engraved on the 2”x 2” tube going across the car at the front of the cockpit on the driver side.

  • Page 324: Gauges And Dash

    Gauges and Dash  ”, ” Tin snips, pliers, drill, drill bit, silicone, caulking gun, rivet gun, wire crimper, wire stripper, Philips screwdriver.  Gauge set, dash electrical components, cut dash, packaged aluminum, dash electrical components, electrical system completion components. ...
  • Page 325 Wire the gauges according to the instructions provided with them and with the dash section of the chassis harness if using the FFR chassis harness. Install your switches in the dash. The horn button can be located where desired.  The factory Five Coupe GPS gauges have built-in indicator lights so the large dash mounted ones included are not necessary.
  • Page 326 Push bulb weatherstrip on the front edge of the dash. ” holes, two of them through the top gauge panel holes and Attach the dash onto the chassis by drill four 4 using the black #6 screws and a Philips screwdriver. Attach the gauge visor to the dash using rivets.
  • Page 327 Locate the dash side panels. Right side shown. ” rivets. Attach the side panels to the ends of the dash and the frame using www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 328: Steering Wheel

    Steering Wheel  ” hex key Philips head screw driver, 10mm wrench,  Steering wheel/Hardware Unpack the steering wheel hardware. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 329 Bolt the steering wheel to the boss. The pattern is not symmetrical so it will only line up in one direction. Bolt the steering wheel assembly to the steering shaft. Use thread-locker on this bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 330: Rolling Chassis Check

    Rolling Chassis Check Front Suspension Double check all your hardware, make sure your wiring and hoses are away from extreme heat and moving parts, make sure the steering turns freely lock to lock, and make sure your brake flex lines have enough slack for the full range of wheel movement.

  • Page 331: Wheels

    Have a friend sit in the car and step on the brakes. Torque the rear axle nuts to 175 ft-lbs. Wheels Install and torque your wheels. Make sure they rotate freely and do not interfere with the brake calipers, lines, or any suspension components.
  • Page 332  Transmission fluid, rear axle gear oil, engine oil, coolant, water Fill the rear differential with gear oil. Any 8.8 in. ford has a fill plug that is removed and filled until the oil just reaches that level. The IRS has it in the rear cover and the solid axle has it in the front. Transmission Fill the transmission with fluid and install the shifter assembly.
  • Page 333 Engine Fill the engine with Oil and coolant. Both these fluids should be rechecked after you have started the engine for the first time. Make sure there is some coolant in the overflow to start out, about full is good. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 334: Rattle Patrol

    Grease fittings All of the suspension and steering components that have grease fitting need to be greased. With a grease gun squeeze grease into each fitting on all the control arms, including rear lowers on a slid axle, and tie rods. Rattle Patrol Review the race car check list in the Appendix.

  • Page 335: Footbox Fitment

     Brakes – plenty of fluid – pedal not bottoming- all fittings tight to reservoir  Dash – All gauges working - gauge lights work – indicators and switches working  Brake Bias – if you have space adjust your brakes bias with the balance bar (the set up and adjustment procedure is detailed in the paperwork that came with the pedal-box) Set up your brakes so that the fronts lock up just before the rears.

  • Page 336: Body Section

    Chapter Body Section www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 337: Frame Preparation

     The Body and panel mounting are a critical part of how your car will end up looking when it is finished. Whether you are having a body shop paint your car or doing it yourself, the best results will be from fully mounting the body, all the panels and getting them to fit properly and then removing the body for the paint process.
  • Page 338 Push weather strip goes across the top of the firewall on either side of the windshield support flange. Push weatherstrip around the radiator aluminum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 339: Rear Body Mount

    Rear body mount  Rear body mount components (mounted)  ½” socket, ratchet ” x ¾” carriage bolts, washers and locknuts using a ½” Attach the rear body mounts to the frame using the socket. Center them in the slots. Body Mounting ...
  • Page 340 Using three people, one on each side holding the door and side exhaust recess and one in the rear, move towards the frame from the rear with the back slightly lower than the front. Pull the sides of the body out to clear the frame. Watching the rear of the frame, move the body forward slowly lowering the front.

  • Page 341: Locating

    Watch the door hinge mounts. Move forward until the rear hatch tubing is lined up with the lip on the body and put the body down in place. Locating  Ruler, long level, marker, floor jack, tape measure Once the body is sitting down on the frame inside the door area, adjust it forward or backwards so that there is a 0.25”...
  • Page 342 Put a long level in the back of the hatch opening. Use masking tape to hold the level at the 7” marks. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 343 From the side of the hatch area, measure over 18” and mark the level. This should be the center of the opening. At the center point marked on the level, use a floor jack to raise or lower the body so that the bottom of the level is 10.25”...

  • Page 344: Rear Body Mount

    In the rear wheel well area, measure horizontally from the frame shock mount over to the edge of the wheel well. This should be the same on both sides of the car. Rear body mount  ” drill bit, ½” socket, ratchet, ”...
  • Page 345 ” holes through the middle of the rear body mounting bracket slot and into the recessed rear part of the Drill body. ” x 1” button head stainless screws, washers, and locknuts using a ½” Bolt the body to the bracket with the ”...
  • Page 346 Use a couple of the aluminum attachment screws through the bottom of the door opening into the tube. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 347: Side Body Cuts

    Side body cuts ” holes at the top side locations where the lower 1.50” frame tubes will hit the side of the body and cut Drill the body for clearance. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 348: Nose Hinge

    Nose Hinge  ” socket, ” wrench.  Nose fasteners Screw the jam nut half way onto the rod end. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 349 Put the end of the rod end up through the nose mount at the front of the frame loosely putting another jam nut ono the end of the rod end. ” bolts through one side of the nose hinge bracket and place one of the ”...
  • Page 350 ” spacers on the bolt. Place one of the ” spacer, Hold the hinge bracket up to the rod end on the frame and pass the bolt through the rod end, another ” washer, the other side of the bracket and loosely put a locknut on the bolt. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 351: Nose Fitment

    Nose fitment  ” hex key, ½” socket, ratchet, tape measure, duct tape, paint sticks.  Nose fasteners. With the latches unlatched, position the nose on the frame so that the nose mounts are seated on the body and the back side of the fog light holes. Use jack stands in the front and duct tape on the back to keep the nose in place.
  • Page 352 ” holes in the marks made and attach the hinge brackets to the nose using ” button head screws, Drill ” hex key and ½” socket. locknuts, Put the small bumpers around the edge of the nose opening and try closing the nose so that the nose height is even with the body.

  • Page 353: Nose Gas Struts

    ” long rivets to attach the bumpers through the body and into the frame. Once you are happy with the alignment you can set the panel gap and radius the edges. An easy way to set the gap is by using a marker. With the panel in place, run a marker around the edge of the panel so that it tubs the body lip all of the way around.
  • Page 354 Measure back along the top outer tube behind the top shock mount 8.50” and mark the top of the tube. Hold the 90 degree strut mounting bracket on the top tube so the center hole is aligned with the mark made, the ball stud is pointed towards the outside of the car and the inside of the bracket is aligned with the edge of the tube.
  • Page 355 ” drill bit. Remove the bracket and drill the mounting hole with a Remove the tape and insert a rivet through the center bracket hole and frame hole then drill the rear mounting hole using the bracket as a guide. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 356 Insert another rivet in the second hole then use a rivet tool to pull the rivets. Drill and rivet the last mounting hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 357 On the nose measure up from the center pivot of the nose hinge 16.50” and mark the nose liner flange. Hold the flat strut mounting bracket up to the outside of the flange on the nose. The point marked is center mounting hole again.
  • Page 358 Insert one of the black button head mounting screws through the bracket and flange. ” hex Drill one of the other mounting holes then insert and tighten two of the button head screws using an ” socket and ratchet. key, Drill and attach the remaining screw.
  • Page 359 Attach the rod end of the gas strut to the frame. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 360: Nose Side Locator Brackets

    Nose Side Locator Brackets  Drill, ⅛”, ⅜” drill bit, 1.25” hole saw, rivet gun, silicone, 5/16” hex key, 9/16” wrench.  Nose locator bracket assembly, secondary body fastener assembly Hold the outside of the nose behind the wheel opening so that it is flush with the lower part of the body. Clamp or hold the nose so that it will not move while drilling the locator hole.
  • Page 361 Put the hatch hinge arms onto the button studs so that they point forward and the arms are on the inside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 362 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 363 Press a bushing into the hinge arms so that the bushings are on opposite sides. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 364 Push a bushing into the rollbar clamp from the outside of the clamp, left side shown. Hand tighten the jam nuts on the bottom of the studs. Repeat for the other side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 365 Push the small 0.813” rubber washers on the small button studs. Push the small button studs through the holes on the sides of the glass. Push the medium 0.922” rubber washers onto the small button studs on the inside of the glass. Put a washer on the small button stud.
  • Page 366 Carefully thread on and tighten a jam nut on the bottom of the small button stud. Thread on and tighten a ball stud on the small button stud. Repeat for the other side. Attach the hinge arm to the rollbar mount using the short shoulder bolts, wave washer, regular washer, locknut, ”...
  • Page 367 At the area marked, measure 1” in each direction and draw a box leaving about ¼ in. of the flange at the top. Cut along the line to give your opening. The trim looks best with a small radius at both the upper and lower corners as has been done on the right hand side of the cut-out pictured.
  • Page 368 Carefully place the hatch with the hinge arms onto the body and center in the opening. Loosely attach the hatch rollbar mount (plate welded to the outside) to the rollbar, rotate the mount so that the pivot point is as close to the roof as possible and slide the mount out so you can use bolt to the hatch glass mount.

  • Page 369: Hatch Struts

    Tighten the rollbar mount. Remove the hatch. Use a ½” drill bit to drill a hole at the point marked. Hatch Struts  The hatch will not sit correctly until the weatherstrip has been installed after painting the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 370 Screw the ball stud into the tube collar using some locktite to prevent loosening. Attach the tube collar to the rollcage rear leg on the frame so the ball stud is 7” from the back of the rollbar as shown and push on the shaft end of the gas strut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 371: Hatch Latch

    Attach the body side of the strut to the hatch ball stud. Hatch Latch  ⅜” socket, ratchet, flat head screwdriver, Philips head screwdriver, ” drill bit, drill  Rear glass hatch assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 372  The hatch will not sit correctly until the weatherstrip has been installed after painting the body. Find the hatch latch and its striker plate Insert the hatch latch into the hole. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 373 Screw the plastic nut onto the latch and orient the latch so that the striker points towards the back of the car then use a set of slip joint pliers to tighten the nut. With the hatch raised, put tape on the back body flange inside the hatch area in the center where the hatch latch is located.
  • Page 374 ” and mark the location on the tape where the hatch latch is located. Measure down from the body 1 Hold the latch catch bracket against the flange so that the top of the bracket is aligned with the mark made then mark the mounting hole locations.
  • Page 375 ” spacer and the black #6 x ½” Philips head screws to hold the bracket inn place. Use the aluminum  ” black button head screws provided and rivnuts. An alternative would be to use the #10 x Test the latch on the catch. Adjust the height of the catch if necessary. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 376: Rear Spoiler

    Rear Spoiler  Sandpaper, ⅛” drill bit, drill, marker.  Coupe rear spoiler.  On the original car, this was a riveted on part but some customers have had their body shops fiberglass the spoiler into the body. Hold the rear spoiler up to the body. Sand or cut the flange to fit or as desired. Mark the location of the rivets.

  • Page 377: Body Cut-Outs

    Body Cut-outs Fuel filler  Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bit, 3½” hole saw or air saw or jig saw, masking tape, scissors.  Fuel filler template, Aston Lemans Cap components. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 378 Locate the template in the appendix and only cut out around the outside diameter of the circle. Tape the circle in the gas cap recess of the body.  Use a ⅛” drill bit for all except one of the outer screw holes. Use a ”...

  • Page 379: Tail Light

    Tail light  ” drill bit, 1” hole saw, file, scissors, masking tape, ruler. Drill,  Tail light template, Red rear light Cut the rear mesh area out and tape the tail light template on the back of the body aligning the rear mesh area on the template and body.
  • Page 380 ” bit to drill the outer holes for the taillight studs then cut out the center using a 1” hole saw. Use a Test fit the tail light mounting plate and drill out the holes to fit if needed. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 381: License Plate Bracket

    This kit is only a collection of parts designed for use primarily as a race car. Applying the license plate bracket does not mean that this vehicle is street legal. Factory Five Racing does not build completed or partially completed street vehicles. If you choose to title, register and operate your kit on public roads, you are responsible for ensuring that the vehicle you build complies with all Federal, State and local laws regarding its use.

  • Page 382: License Plate Light

    ” rivet through the bracket and into the hole drilled then level the bracket and drill through the other Put a mounting hole in the bracket into the body. License plate light  ” hole saw, ” drill bit, masking tape, marker Drill, 1 ...
  • Page 383 Put masking tape above the license plate bracket and mark 2” above and centered on the bracket. ” hole saw or if not available a 1¾” holes saw to drill the light location. If possible use a 1 Test fit the light so that it will sit flat on the body. If it will not, open the hole up slightly. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 384 ” drill bit. Drill the screw holes in the light out using an ” mounting holes. Hold the light up to the body and use the light as a template to drill the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 385: Turn Signal

    Turn Signal  Drill, ¾” hole saw, marker.  Front turn signal light From the headlight mounting surface measure out and mark the bucket at 4” and 7” so that the turn signals will be lined up with the center of the headlight. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 386: Headlights

    Drill the mounting holes with a ¾” hole saw. Headlights  ”, ¼”, ” drill bit, razor knife, masking tape, air saw or jig saw, level. Drill,  Headlight template, headlight components, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 387 Cut out the headlight templates from the back of the manual on the outermost diameter and tape them in the center of the fender with the line level with the ground. Cut the center of the template out and trace the inner circle with a marker. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 388 Drill the two smaller corner holes with a ¼” drill bit to mark their location. Follow this with a ” drill bit. Using a jig saw, cut the inner hole out of the body, use a larger drill bit to make a hole to start your cut. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 389 Put the rubber gasket on the light bucket. Push the rubber grommet into the bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 390 Test fit the light bucket making sure that they sit flat. ” drill bit. Drill the four mounting screw holes with the bucket as a template using a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 391: Side Mesh/Nose Latch

    Side Mesh/Nose latch  Drill, ½” drill bit, jig saw or air saw, marker.  Packaged aluminum Hold the template up to the nose so that the bottom of the template is even with the bottom of the nose and the hood latch area is aligned with the finger recess.
  • Page 392 Mark the template on the body. Use a jigsaw or hacksaw to cut the holes leaving the finger recess for the latch as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 393: Nose Latch

    Nose Latch  ” drill bit, drill, ⅛” hex key, ”, ” wrench, ” deep socket, chassis grease, rivet gun, masking tape, vise.  Nose/trunk fastener assembly Open the latches and apply a little bit of chassis grease to the sides of the latch. Work the latches a few times to help loosen them up.
  • Page 394 Attach the latch mount plate to the front side of the latch as shown. Position the latch from the backside of the body; make sure the latch looks straight in the cutout from the outside then mark the back side of the body through the mounting holes. ”...
  • Page 395 Mount the latches to the nose. Use the washers on the backside of the body. Attach the “U” bolts to the nose latch striker mounts on the frame. Do not tighten them yet. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 396: Radiator Exit Opening

    Radiator Exit opening  Air saw or jig saw. Use a jigsaw to make sure the opening is straight and even. Side exhaust  Air saw or jig saw. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 397 The pattern for the side exhaust cut out is pre traced on the body. Use an air saw or jig saw to cut the area out. Hold up the side exhaust to make sure there is clearance especially the lower front corner. Locate the side exhaust rear mount parts.
  • Page 398 The mount will attach about half way back under the cockpit area. The body should be slotted for the hanger. ” x 1” button Attach the long leg of the exhaust hanger to the back side of the side exhaust mount using a head screw.

  • Page 399: Door Hinge

    ” locknuts. The body will have to be cut for the Attach the rubber hangers to the frame mount using the mounts to attach to the frame. Door hinge  ” socket, ratchet, ” long drill bit, drill, air saw or jig saw, masking tape, ruler, measuring tape. ...
  • Page 400 Attach the door hinge mounts to the front of the frame mounts and center them up and down in the slots using ” carriage bolts, locknuts and ” socket. On the door side, put masking tape over the whole hinge area. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 401 Use a ruler to draw a line 0.25” in from the inner door recess. ” drill bit directly above the door hinge and drill through the body. Use a long www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 402 ” drill bit directly below the door hinge and drill through the body. Use a long Repeat this for the bottom hinge arm. On the inside of the door hinge area, draw a line 1.75” in from the edge of the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 403 Use a tape measure to measure up from the lower door opening to the drill holes made and note the dimensions. On the inside of the door opening, mark these same heights. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 404 Draw lines across connecting the drilled holes and inner marks made. Mark the area between the lines that will need to get cut for the hinge arms. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 405: Door Hinge

    Cut the areas out using an air saw or jig saw. Door hinge  Door latch/hinge components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 406 Push the door hinge bushings into the door hinge arms. Left side door hinge. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 407 Pass the hinge arms through the door hinge openings in the body and to the frame mounts. Attach the hinge arm assembly to the adjuster plate using the 2” shoulder bolts, washers and ” nuts. It makes installing the shoulder bolts a bit easier if you grind an angle on the end of the shoulder instead of having it square.

  • Page 408: Door Frame Prep

    Tighten the nuts down until the arm is hard to move and then loosen slightly. If you tighten the nut down and you can still rotate the hinge easily then the washer is caught on the shoulder. Loosen slightly, adjust the washer and retighten.

  • Page 409: Latch

    Latch Locate the left door frame. Attach the door latch to the door frame using the ¼” flange bolts, washers, latch and ” socket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 410 Attach the clevis to the release lever using the ¼” x ¾” screws, locknuts, Philips head screwdriver and ” wrench. Locate the cable mount tabs, ¼” jam nuts and release cable. Attach the cable mount to the cable in the center of the adjustment range by hand only for now.
  • Page 411 Attach the other end of the release cable to the handle as shown. Insert the ball end into the clevis on the latch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 412 Locate the cable mount tab on the underside of the top tube so that the cable is tight but not pulling on the release lever and the mount tab does not stick out past the side of the frame that will touch the door liner (flat side).
  • Page 413 ” rivets and a rivet tool. Attach the mounting tab using long ” wrenches. Adjust the play in the cable then use some blue Loctite and tighten the jam nuts using (2) Repeat this assembly for the right door latch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 414: Doors

    Attach the doors to the hinge arms using ⅜” lock nuts, washers and ” socket. Leave the locknuts loose enough so that the door frame can still slide. Doors  Drill, ⅛”, ” drill bits, 1¼” hole saw, Loctite, marker, air saw or jig saw, vise-grip clamps, masking tape, ...

  • Page 415: Trimming

    Trimming Mark an even ½ inch flange around the door recess, you can use a washer or small block of wood to help keep an even spacing around the inside of the door area. ” hole on the inside of the line marked to allow the saw blade to go into the door. Drill a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 416 Cut the inside of the door out along the line leaving the flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 417: Door Frame Install

    At the front of the door use the dimensions above to draw the area to remove to insert the door frame. Cut the marked area of the door front using an air saw or jig saw. Door frame install  ”...
  • Page 418 With the door frame still on the car, start inserting the door onto the frame at the top rear corner then swing it down. Push the door onto the door. The door frame will self-locate around the door cut-out, clamp the door frame to the inner door liner.
  • Page 419 Carefully close the door remove material from the doors if necessary to allow a good fit in the door opening. Allow an ⅛”- ” gap on the bottom and front of the door. We usually use a paint stick as a guide, let the door sit on them and make sure it can fit around the front.
  • Page 420 Use a tape measure to measure on the inside of the door from the flange to the door frame. Add 0.50” to the measurement so that the mark will be in the center of the tube and mark the inside of the door so that there are four marks.
  • Page 421 Rough locations of holes around door opening. ” bit then open it up to ”. Drill through the door and frame with a www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 422 ” x 1.50” button head screws, locknuts, ” hex key and ½” socket. Bolt the door to the door frame using the www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 423 Press the door latch so that it is in the locked position then use a flashlight to shine through the door opening at the back of the door so that you can see the circle of the door latch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 424 Mark the area to get cut for the door striker to go into the door. Allow room around the striker so that it will not hit the door fiberglass. Remove the door from the door frame and use an air saw or jig saw to cut out the area marked on the door. Reattach the door to the door frame.

  • Page 425: Inside Door Handle

    Reattach the striker to the frame. Test close the door to make sure there are no interferences between the door, latch, striker and body. Inside door handle  ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver. Marker, air saw,  Make sure the hole will be above the upper door tube. ...
  • Page 426 Hold the template up to the door with the flat end of the cut-out area towards the back of the door. Use the cable and handle still hooked to the latch as a guide for the max reach of the cable. Having a bend in the cable is ok.
  • Page 427 Remove the cable from the handle and insert the door handle into door hole just made and reattach the cable. ” mounting screw holes. Use the handle as a template to drill the Attach the handle to the door using the #8 chrome oval head screws. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 428: Door Striker

    Door Striker From inside the door reach through the center of the door latch with a marker and mark the body for the door striker. It is easier to get a good center if the latch has been closed so you have a hole instead of an open slot to trace.
  • Page 429 Bolt the striker plate to the frame and the striker to the plate using the center of the slot through the body as a starting point for adjustment. Adjust the latch striker on the mount plate until you have a nice fit on the door and tighten. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 430: Nose Scoops (Optional)

    Nose Scoops (Optional)  From FFR, the nose scoops are cosmetic; we do not include parts to make them fresh air ducts for the footboxes like the originals. If installing the optional nose scoops, drill the mounting holes for them now. Left side shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 431: Final Prep

    Right side duct. Final Prep  Sand paper www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 432  All of the exterior body accessories, Windshield and side exhaust must be mounted to the car to obtain the correct body location in order to create the correct gaps and opening sizes on the car before it is painted. ...
  • Page 433  Backside of body near exhaust area  Main radiator opening  Door hinge openings  Underside of Nose and fender flange www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 434  Hatch hinge area flange. The curled under side body edges are not as visible but just taking a little time here to get the lines straight and a small radius makes for a much nicer finish as well. The headlight, taillight, fuel cap, turn signal, quick jack, and trunk openings all are covered and do not need the finish work of the other areas.

  • Page 435: Body Painting

    Body Painting  Remove all trim, doors, windshield etc. before beginning body work  The primer gel coat sands easily, and is a forgiving material to work with.  The body comes out of the mold with a wax release compound and a thorough cleaning with a wax remover is the best way to begin this job.

  • Page 436: Final Assembly

    Chapter Final Assembly www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 437: Emergency Brake Boot

    Emergency Brake Boot  ” drill bit, drill, Philips head screwdriver  Interior Trim/Carpet Unpack the e-brake boot. Fit the boot over the handle and check the handle actuation. When you are in a position where the boot clears the handle movement drill through the material into the tunnel and screw it into place. Shifter Handle and Boot ...
  • Page 438 Unpack the shift handle and bolt it to the transmission. These bolts have a tendency to rattle loose so use a little thread locker. Push the boot and trim rind down over the handle so it sits flush on the tunnel. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 439 Using a silver marker or white paint marker, mark your screw holes on the tunnel. ” holes in the spots you marked. Remove the boot and drill www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 440 Re-install the boot and screw down to the tunnel with the countersunk screws. A small screwdriver can help to locate the holes. Screw the two piece knob onto the shift handle and tighten so the shift pattern is in the correct orientation. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 441: Headlights

    Headlights  Philips head screwdriver  Headlight components Unpack the headlight mounting assembly. 13420 13418 13419 13415 13416 Headlight fasteners. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 442 Screw the adjuster screws about halfway into the buckets. Push the grommet into the side of the bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 443 Screw the bucket onto the body. Run the light plug harness through from the inside www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 444 Line up the headlight with the bucket to get the proper orientation. The bottom of the bucket is the only screw boss that comes in from the side and the writing on the headlight should be right side up. Screw the mounting flange onto the light with the 3 small tabs and small screws. The tabs are bent to fit around the bosses on the light.
  • Page 445 Plug the light into the connector. Mount the bulb to the bucket. The slotted parts of the mounting flange go onto the adjusting screws between the screw head and flange at the top and left side of the light. The bottom right screw attaches the bucket to the light mounting flange. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 446: Turn Signals

    Push the spring clip onto the boss near the bottom of the bucket. The trim ring hooks over the bucket on the top and gets a screw it in the bottom using the oval head screw. Drill a hole through the bottom of the nose headlight area so that a Philips head screwdriver will line up with the mounting hole location.
  • Page 447 Push the rubber bushing into the body hole. Slide the trim ring onto the light. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 448 Pass the wires through the grommet. Push the light into the rubber bushing. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 449: Headlight Covers

    Headlight Covers  Drill, ⅛” drill bit, Philips head screwdriver, masking tape, marker, ruler, and sandpaper.  Headlamp covers/fasteners Put masking tape around the edge and on the inside around the edge of the headlight bucket so the paint will not get scratched.
  • Page 450 Position the headlight cover in the opening with your hands as shown in the picture. Only press down at four points on the cover. Move your fingers as necessary so that the cover is flush with the body everywhere. If necessary use sandpaper on the edge of the plastic to shape the plastic.
  • Page 451 Tape four of the mounting tabs in the bucket opening at the points marked. Mark the locations of the mounting tap holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 452 ” holes into the bucket. Drill ” rivets to attach the tabs to the headlight bucket. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 453 Reposition the cover carefully. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to bend the tabs to match the surface of the lens.  A drill bit for plastic is suggested to prevent cracking www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 454 ” holes on the locations marked on the cover. Mark and drill Before final mounting the edges should be sanded to a smooth finish. Start with 400 grit paper and work down to 1200 grit before finishing with 3M plastic polish for a nice finished edge. Be extra careful not to scratch the surface of the lens, using a small paint stick to wrap the paper around helps.

  • Page 455: Tail Lights

    Attach the cover to the mounting tabs using the #6 truss head screws and a Philips head screwdriver. Tail lights  ” socket, ratchet Pliers, masking tape,  Tail light components Unpack the tail light components. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 456 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 457 Put the light in the trim ring. Put the inner rubber gasket in on top of the light. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 458 Put the mounting ring in on top of the gasket and orient the studs so that there is one stud at the top of the light and two at the bottom when looking at the text on the lens. Starting with the squared off end, push the snap ring into the retaining groove in the trim ring. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 459 Put masking or duct tape or use a paint stick around one of the jaws on a set of pliers and squeeze the snap ring into the groove so that it is seated all the way. Put the rubber mounting gasket onto the light assembly. Cut the plug off the wires right next to the plug.
  • Page 460 ” Push the wires through the body mounting hole then attach the light to the body using the 10-32 locknuts, socket and ratchet. Mounted taillights. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 461: License Plate Bracket

    License plate bracket  ” or 9mm wrench. Rivet gun, Philips head screwdriver,  Secondary body fasteners, license plate light/bracket components. If not already in, push the plastic license plate nuts into the bracket. ” rivets. Attach the license plate bracket to the body using License plate light Insert the screws through the light and body.

  • Page 462: Gas Cap

    On the backside of the body place the ground wire for the light on one of the screws and then place a washer ” or 9mm wrench. and locknut and tighten using a Philips head screwdriver and Gas Cap  Philips head screwdriver www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 463  Aston Lemans Cap Unpack the fuel cap and mounting hardware. Put the gasket on the bottom surface of the cap. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 464 Set the cap on the body and screw in using 5 of the countersunk screws. Leave the inside most forward hole open. The one remaining cap fastener is a longer screw and nut used for the ground strap, screw it in from the top then put the ground strap washer and nut on from underneath.

  • Page 465: Nose Side Mesh

    Nose side mesh  Silicone, caulking gun, duct tape  Coupe pressed mesh. Position the mesh screen behind the louver cut-out area on the nose to see where the mesh will touch. Apply silicone around the cut-out area on the nose that the mesh will touch. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 466 Push the mesh into the silicone and use masking tape on the back to hold it in place or paint sticks and zip ties from the outside. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 467: Rear Mesh

    Rear mesh  Tin snips, marker  Coupe pressed mesh  The rear mesh is a nice touch for looks but not necessary.  There are different ways to mount the mesh, using spacers and fasteners or bend the sides and use silicone, it is up to you.

  • Page 468: Headliner

    Headliner  Razor knife, tape, newspaper/large paper, spray glue, rags.  Interior trim assembly.  Put some clean rags on the ground to prevent scratching the roof of the body.  With the help of a friend, turn the body upside down and place the roof on the rags. ...
  • Page 469 Pre-fit the headliner to make sure you have it lined up so there will be no gaps. Rough trim if there is excessive material left over but the final trim is best after the liner is glued in place. The liner should follow the windshield pillars down to where they reach the dash and door opening. Trim material around this area to get the liner to sit nicely into this channel.
  • Page 470 When laying out the liner, look for any high spots or bumps in the fiberglass that don’t allow the liner to sit flat. Using coarse sandpaper or a small sanding wheel, carefully bring these areas down flush to the roof. Starting with the liner in position, lift the front half of the roof (not the window pillars) while keeping either some books or helping hands holding the liners’...
  • Page 471 Pay extra attention to the edges and tucking the material in tightly to the inside corners make sure the adhesive is nice and uniform and covers these areas completely as they are where separation is the most likely to happen. Spray and fit the windshield pillars still leaving them a little oversize to be trimmed later.
  • Page 472 With the front glued in place and the rear half still loose check the fitment around the rear quarter window scoops and trim where needed to get the material to sit nice and flat. Making pie cuts around the tighter curves helps get the material to lay flat. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 473 Due to the mold seam location this is also a likely spot for bumps or high spots, sand these away being careful not to go deeper than flush. Spray and stick the rear half of the liner also working from front to back and saving the quarter window edges until last.
  • Page 474 With the liner tight against all corners and edges you can now trim it very carefully with a razor knife. It is ok to leave a little extra around the window and pillar area as this will be covered up by weatherstripping. The windshield weather strip without the bulb is for the windshield surround.
  • Page 475 The weather stripping with the build is for the side windows, the bulb faces toward the outside of the car. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 476 The side window trim and windshield area trim will hide the rough cut edge of the liner. In order to get the liner to not get pushed off the body, start at an angle with the trim covering the liner side and then push it on so the body side edge is what is what is sliding in place.

  • Page 477: Final Body Mounting

    Final Body Mounting Fit the body back on the chassis. Be very careful with the sides and slowly work it down into position. Pull the sides out around the chassis and make sure the body covers the rear cockpit wall and top of the dash without pulling the material off either.

  • Page 478: Door And Latch Mount

    Reattach the nose latches to the nose. Door and Latch mount Reattach the doors and latches. Windshield Mounting Windshield  Windshield assembly.  Handle the windshield with care and store in a safe place.  We highly recommend having a professional windshield installation shop do this installation. Most glass shops prefer to use their own weather strip and materials to install the glass since they warranty the installation.
  • Page 479 Apply urethane around the windshield flange. Push the windshield into place. Tape it if necessary so that it will not slip down. Do not move/touch the windshield for 24 hours. Windshield mounted on the body without weatherstrip. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 480: Hatch Side Aluminum

    Windshield mounted on the body with 409 T 102 weatherstrip Hatch side aluminum Push weatherstrip onto the top edge of the hatch side aluminum. Right side shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 481 From the wheel well, push the hatch side aluminum into place so that the lower flange goes under the floor aluminum. Push the front bottom in so that the side panel touches the side of the floor. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 482: Fuel Filler Neck

    At the back, push the panel in again so that the side panel touches the side of the floor. Fuel Filler Neck  Razor knife, ⅜” socket, ratchet, ” drill bit, drill  Aston Lemans Cap components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 483 Ground the fuel filler strap to the chassis using the screw that came in the cap hardware.  This wire prevents any static charge build-up and must be used. Use a measuring tape and marker to mark the filler tube 3.50” up from the lower bent section and 3” up from the line marked.
  • Page 484 Cut the hose at the two places marked. Push the lower 90° hose section onto the gas cap along with a hose clamp. Rotate the hose so it points down towards the fuel tank filler. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 485 Connect the other section of filler tube and hose to the fuel tube in the tank as shown. Assemble the pieces together before tightening the hose clamps. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 486: Aluminum

    Screw the plastic gas cap into the Aston Lemans style cap. Aluminum  ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 487: Firewall Extension

    firewall extension Push weatherstrip around the curve of the panel and the horizontal area shown. Right side shown. Insert the panel into the area in front of the door hinge from the engine bay side. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 488 Attach weatherstrip to the top and bottom of the inner firewall extension. Right side shown. Insert the inner extension panel and move the panels until they fit together. Trim the outer panel around the body if necessary. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 489: Cockpit Outside Corners

    Use the kit aluminum screws to attach the panels together; to the firewall; and to the outside of the footbox. Cockpit outside corners Push weatherstrip on to the curve of the aluminum panels as shown. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 490: Outside Nose Mount Cover

    Attach the panel to the chassis by putting the panel behind the body flange and so it rests against the rollbar tubes. Outside nose mount cover Locate the Outside nose mount covers. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 491: Inside Shock Tower Cover

    Drill silicone and rivet the panel behind the nose latch mounts. Inside shock tower cover Check the fit of the hatch area inside shock tower cover and note the locations available for rivets. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 492: Fuel Tank Access Covers

    Silicone, drill and rivet the covers in place. Fuel tank access covers Silicone and install the patch panels in the hatch area that cover the fuel sender and pickup access holes. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 493: Hatch Area Rear Wall

    Hatch area rear wall ” at each end so the weatherstrip on the side panels Put weatherstrip on the top edge of the aluminum leaving does not hit the weatherstrip on this panel. Insert the panel through the hatch area. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 494 From the wheel well, push the hatch side aluminum flange behind the rear wall and use masking tape to hold it in place. Drill and rivet the panel to the floor panel and the side hatch flange aluminum. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 495: Rear Hatch Final

    Use a broom handle or similar to hold the aluminum panel against the body hatch area flange then drill and rivet the panel to the flange. Rear hatch final  Razor knife, ½” socket, ratchet.  Secondary body fasteners. The rear hatch uses the weather stripping that has two legs on it, one longer than the other, the longer leg goes on the inside towards the hatch area.
  • Page 496 Starting at the bottom in the middle, press the weather stripping onto the body with the longer leg towards the inside of the hatch to help prevent water getting to the hatch area. Remount the hatch by placing the glass back in the opening, set the gap around the body opening and bolting the two halves of the hinge arms together.

  • Page 497: Interior Rearview Mirror

    Interior Rearview Mirror  Tape measure, marker, windshield rearview mirror glue, hex key set.  Rearview mirrors Use a ruler and marker pen to mark the center of the top windshield area mount on the windshield. Hold the mirror in place to find the best location up/down and mark this on the windshield. Follow the directions on the glue for attaching the mount to the windshield.
  • Page 498 Unpack the side mirror assembly. Disassemble the mirror, removing the large base from the stand. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 499 The large base is replaced by the smaller insert and gasket. Temporarily bolt the mirror back together with the small insert. Sit in the seat to find a good location you can see it from and see clearly over the rear fender. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 500 Mark the location and use the gasket to locate and drill the mounting holes. Disassemble the mirror and bolt the mounting insert with mounting bolt and the gasket to the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 501 Slide the stand-off and upper gasket down the bolt and onto the mounting bracket. Bolt the main body of the mirror to the mounting stand-off. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 502: Light Wiring

    Screw the mirror into the body and adjust it before tightening. Light wiring  Wire strippers, wire crimpers, chassis harness instructions  Headlight components, amber front turn signal lights, rear lights, license plate light, electrical system completion components www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 503: Check Straps

    Wire in the headlights to the chassis harness. On the headlight, there are three wires, black is ground, white is high beam and the red is low beam. Wire the turn signals up to the chassis harness. On the light, the white wire is the ground and the black wire is the positive.
  • Page 504 Unpack the door check-straps. Drill and rivet the check-strap to the 1.50” vertical frame tube near the top of the tube using a ” rivet. Put masking tape on the door near the front. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 505: Steering Wheel Center Section

    Open the door wide but not enough so that the door hits the body or the hinges hit the side of the cut-out. The straps will stretch slightly over time so allow enough room for this by closing the door slightly from the maximum.
  • Page 506 With the steering wheel in the position that is most comfortable for you tighten the set screws on the upper steering bearing collar. Unwrap the steering wheel center section and push it into the steering wheel and boss, a little WD40 on the o- ring helps if it is tight.
  • Page 507 Peel the backing off the badge and stick it in the center section making sure you are aligned with the top of the steering wheel. If necessary, file any flashing off the bottom edge of the emblem so that it will fit. Optional leather steering wheel.

  • Page 508: Rear Quarter Side Windows

    Rear Quarter side windows  ” drill bit, drill, sand paper, fine blade hack saw (finer the better), masking tape, marker  Quarter windows  A drill bit designed for plastic with a 60° point instead of the standard 118° or 135° point will reduce the chance of cracking during drilling.
  • Page 509 The bottom edge usually has the most overhang, make a mark on the window that lines up with the leading edge of the door. From your edge mark draw a straight line up to the top flange of the quarter window for trimming. Remove the window and evenly mark the window screw locations.
  • Page 510 After trimming and rough edging drill holes and mount the window using the screws provided. Once you are happy with the mounted fit you can polish the finish edge. We usually start with 400 grit sand paper and step up to a 1200 grit before finishing with 3M plastic polish. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 511: Side Exhaust

    Side Exhaust  ”, ” Hex key, ⅜”, ½”, ” socket, ratchet, ” wrench, drill  Side Exhaust ” hex key and ” socket. Attach the side exhaust using the kit fasteners, www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 512: Aluminum Splash Guards

    Attach the frame mounts to the underside of the 1.50” tubing using the #10 x 1” self-tapping screws. Aluminum Splash guards  ”, ” drill bit, drill, rivet gun, silicone, caulking gun, ¾” socket, ratchet, extension, marker  Secondary body fasteners, packaged aluminum, front wheel and tire www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 513: Front Wheel, Rear Inside

    Front wheel, rear inside Rivet the front wheel rear inside panel to the frame so that the exhaust goes through the hole it makes. Front wheel rear lower With the nose up, put a wheel and tire on the front and turn the steering so that the rear of the tire is as close as possible to the frame.
  • Page 514 Clamp the front lower splash guard to the inner splash panel and the outside to the front part of the body in front of the side exhaust. Use a level to make sure the surface that will be close to the nose is flat. Put a wheel and tire on the car and check for aluminum clearance.

  • Page 515: Front Upper Splash Panels

    Front upper splash panels Push weatherstrip on the outside of the upper splash panel to the bend only, not the thin part that goes forward. Right side shown. Close the nose and align the splash panel with the lower splash panel and clamp the front part to the flange on the nose.

  • Page 516: Rear Wheel

    Rear Wheel Push a piece of the bulb seal weather stripping around both rear splash guards where they will contact the body. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 517: Carpet (Optional)

    Fit the panels in place trimming the outside perimeter if needed. The small tab on the bottom faces towards the rear of the car and is on the bottom. Push the panel in so that the bulb of the weatherstrip is not visible from the outside.
  • Page 518 www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 519 60560 LEFT FOOTBOX INSIDE CARPET 1.00 60561 LEFT FOOTBOX FRONT CARPET 1.00 60563 LEFT FOOTBOX OUTSIDE CARPET 1.00 60562 LEFT FOOTBOX OUTSIDE TRIANGLE CARPET 1.00 60564 LEFT UNDER DOOR CARPET 1.00 60566 LEFT FLOOR CARPET 1.00 60569 COCKPIT REAR OUTSIDE, LEFT 1.00 60571 LEFT HATCH SIDE FRONT...
  • Page 520  Super77™ or ® The adhesive used to hold the carpet down is the same as we used on the dash pad. 3M Super90™ work best. Wipe down the bare aluminum with acetone or brake cleaner for good adhesion. www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 521 Double check the aluminum edges and corners for any areas that look like they are not sealed. Run a small bead of silicone in these corners, seams and around the slots where the seat harness mounts poke through. Install the carpet pieces www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 522: Finishing Touches

    Finishing Touches Review the Race car checklist in the appendix. Headlight Alignment  Masking tape, marker, tape measure  Make sure that the car is at the correct ride height before the alignment procedure is done. Ride height should be 4½” at the front and 4½” at the back measured to the bottom of the frame with the normal number of people/weight in the car.

  • Page 523: Alignment Specifications

    Measurement A: From the ground to the geometric center of one of the headlight lenses Measurement B: From one of the low beam headlights to the vehicle centerline. (Also measure from high beam center to vehicle centerline for 4 headlight systems) Note these measurements.
  • Page 524 Front For a car using a manual steering rack or the power rack without power use the following specifications: Caster: 3 Camber: -0.5 ” in or 0.14 in Total Toe: For a car using power steering car use the following specifications: Caster: 7...

  • Page 525: Optional Parts

     There should never be more than 1” of thread showing past the tightened down jam nuts on either end of both adjusting tubes. The Pivot Bolts must be loosened while the car is being aligned and retightened afterwards 2015 IRS ”...

  • Page 526: Performance Reference Material And Technical Support

    Chapter Performance Reference Material and Technical Support www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 527: Maintenance

    Maintenance Check the items on the car check sheet in the Appendix on a yearly basis or before track days depending on how hard the car is driven. Wheels and Tires  If using a wheel wider than 7”, FFR front lower control arms are needed to prevent the wheels rubbing the control arms.
  • Page 528 If a modern look is what you’re after, you may want to try the 17” Cobra™ R or FR style wheels. If using the standard width 1987-93 rear, it is possible to use aftermarket 10.5” wide, 27mm offset wheels. If using a rear end that has been converted to 5-lug using the “Cobra™”...

  • Page 529: Performance Modifications

    Left: 15” FFR Halibrand style. Right 17” FFR Halibrand Style Performance Modifications The following modifications and set-ups fall under the category of getting more horsepower from your engine and making your car perform better. You will find a hundred people a day that will tell you what you’ve got to have.

  • Page 530: Efi Engines

    turns is a 3.55 rear ratio, etc.… The other way to check the ratio out is to open the rear differential up and look on the ring gear. While the rear is open change the fluid. This never gets done enough on the car. Changing the gear ratio is one of the least expensive ways to improve your car’s performance and it is easiest to do before assembly, since the rear is out of the car.

  • Page 531: Oil Cooler

    Heads The 5.0L Mustang aftermarket is full of aluminum and cast iron heads for the small block Ford. Our favorites are the Edelbrock Victor Jr. and the Trick Flow aluminum heads. These both flow very well, have stock exhaust port heights which allows the use of our headers and not only give you extra horsepower but also remove 50 lbs.

  • Page 532: Steering Rack

    Superchargers Factory Five Racing customers have successfully installed Kenne Bell, Vortech, Powerdyne and Edelbrock superchargers in their cars. The key to any supercharger installation seems to be the side that the supercharger is hooked up on. Use the ones that mount on the passenger side. The drivers’ side blowers may get in the way of the steering shaft if the blower is too big.

  • Page 533: Seats

    Helpful Reference Material Must Reads  www.thefactoryfiveforum.com The largest discussion forum for Factory Five Racing kits. Also has many vendor links. Helpful  5.0L Ford Dyno Tests. By Richard Holdener. www.cartechbooks.com  Building 4.6/5.4L Ford Horsepower. By Richard Holdener.

  • Page 534: Catalogs/Parts

    Factory Five Racing does not build or sell completed or partially completed vehicles. We are aware of a number of performance and hot rod shops that claim to specialize in building race cars and kit cars. We have over the years compiled a list of some of them, which includes parts yards, used parts suppliers, paint and body shops, hot rod assemblers, and race car shops.

  • Page 535: Appendix A - Templates

    Appendix A – Templates www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
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  • Page 540: Appendix B - Donor Parts List

    Appendix B – Donor Parts List www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 541  In some cases not all parts listed below will be necessary, but it is suggested to obtain all parts to avoid future difficulties. PART NAME CHECK Engine Engine mount, (L,R) w/nuts and bolts Starter Transmission, bell-housing, clutch, and shifter components Transmission mount w/nuts and bolts Driveshaft w/4 bolts Clutch cable w/bell-housing retaining c-clip...

  • Page 542: Appendix C - Race / Yearly Check Sheet

    Appendix C – Race / Yearly check sheet www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 543 CAR_______________________________________ Date___________ Steering  Steering wheel tight  Universal joint set screws tight  Rack mount bolts tight  Tie rod ends tight  Tie rod to spindle bolts tight  Steering free lock to lock Front Suspension  Ride height ...
  • Page 544  Battery mount and connections secure  Brake lights functioning  All wires free and clear of moving or hot parts Rear Suspension  Ride height  Shock mounting bolts tight  Spring collars tight/taped  Wheel bearings tight (IRS) ...

  • Page 545: Appendix D - Torque Specifications

    Appendix D – Torque Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 546: General Bolt Torque Specifications

    General Bolt torque specifications* Thread English Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ¼ -20 ¼ -28 ⅜ -16 ⅜ -24 ½ -13 ½ -20 ⅝ -11 ⅝ -14 Thread Metric Zinc Plated Ft-Lb. ATTENTION: Use the following specs in order to torque Stainless Bolts. ”...

  • Page 547: Appendix E - Mustang Specifications

    Appendix E – Mustang Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...

  • Page 548: Special Version Mustangs With Specifications

    Between 1996 and 1998 Ford made 125,231 GT and 28,708 Cobra versions of the Mustang Between 1999 and 2004 Ford made ~200,000 GT, 5,582 Bullitt, 9,652 Mach 1 and 20,727 Cobra versions of the Mustang. (All information is based on V8 Ford Mustangs from 1979 to 2004) Special Version Mustangs with Specifications Year &...

  • Page 549: Rear Axle Ratio

    F(Z,9,0)ZR-7003- 1989-93 T-5 (A,AA) 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15 1994-95 T-5 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.675 3.15 1995 TR3550 3.27 1.98 1.34 1.00 0.680 3.00 1996-98 T-45 3.37 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.670 3.22 1999-02 TR- 3650 3.38 2.00 1.32 1.00 0.620 3.38...

  • Page 550: Steering Components

    that carry exhaust headers for the installation of a 351 Windsor into a 1986-1993 Mustang. These headers will work with Factory Five 1986-1995 J-pipes. Steering components Power steering racks from 1987-2004 are 15:1. In 1994 the racks switched from having a splined shaft for attachment to the steering column to a triangle shaped end, as well as changing the inner and outer tie rod ends.

  • Page 551: Appendix F - Fluid Specifications

    Appendix F – Fluid Specifications www.factoryfive.com 508-291-3443...
  • Page 552 Engine Oil Type Capacity 10W-30 5.0 qts. 4.6L 5W-30 8.0 qts. w/FFR pan 5.0L Coyote 5W-20 8.0 qts. w/FFR pan Transmission Oil Type T-45 3650 T-56 Mercon/Dexron III Trans. Fluid 2.8 qts. 3.25 qts. 4.0 qts. 2.64 qts. 4.0 qts. 8.8 Solid Rear Axle Friction Oil Type...

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