Visual Inspection; Driving Precautions - Traxxas Stampede 3601 Operating Instructions Manual

For radio systems using a mechanical speed control, connect the red
and black wires, which come from the speed control, to the "battery"
terminal on the receiver. Power for the radio system comes from the
main battery pack when it is plugged into the mechanical speed
control. When the main battery becomes weak and loses its charge, the
voltage available for the radio system will also decrease. When the
voltage becomes too low, the servos will stop working and the model
will continue out of control with the last command it had from the
transmitter. This is not a defect in the radio system. The servos simply
do not have enough power to return to center. Stop operation of the
model at the first sign of sluggish performance and slow servos.

VISUAL INSPECTION:

Form the habit of visually inspecting the mechanical integrity of the
model before each run.
1) Check the wheels and steering for binding.
2) Check the operation of the shock absorbers.
3) Check the wiring for any frayed wires or loose connections.
4) Check the mounting of the receiver and servos.
5) Check the tightness of the wheel nuts with a wrench.
6) Check the operation of the radio system, especially the condition
of the batteries.

DRIVING PRECAUTIONS:

The radio system is not waterproof. Avoid driving through puddles
or mud. If water gets into the electronics it could damage them.
Do not continue to operate the model with low batteries or you
could lose control of it. After the battery power drops below a certain
point, the model will continue with the last command it had from the
transmitter. Indications of low battery power include slow operation
and sluggish servos (slow to return to neutral). Stop immediately at
the first sign of weak batteries. When the batteries in the transmitter
become weak, the red power light will begin to flash. Stop
immediately and install new batteries, or you could lose control of
your model.
Do not drive the model at night, on public streets, or in large crowds
of people.
If the model becomes stuck against an object, do not continue to run
the motor. Remove the obstruction before continuing.
Do not attempt to push objects or tow objects with the model.
Because the model is controlled by radio, it is subject to radio
interference from many sources beyond your control. Since radio
interference can cause momentary losses of control, allow a safety
margin in all directions around the model in order to prevent
collisions.
Use good, common sense whenever you are driving your model.
Intentionally driving in an abusive and rough manner will only result
in poor performance and broken parts. Take care of your model, so
that you can enjoy it for a long
time to come.
ADJUSTMENTS:
Shocks- The four shocks on the
model greatly influence its
handling. Whenever you rebuild
your shocks, or make any changes
to the pistons, springs or oil, always
make changes to them in pairs
(front or rear). Piston selection
depends on the range of oil
viscosities that you have available.
For example, using a two-hole
piston with a lightweight oil will, at
one point, give you the same
dampening as a three-hole piston
with heavier oil. We recommend
using the two-hole pistons with a
4
range of oil viscosities from 10W to 50W (available from your hobby
shop). The thinner viscosity oils (30W or less) flow more smoothly and
are more consistent, while thicker oils provide more dampening. Use
only 100% pure silicone shock oil to prolong seal life.
The model's ride height can be adjusted by adding or removing the
clip-on, spring pre-load spacers. Adjust the ride height so that the
suspension arms are slightly above being parallel to the ground.
Observe how the model handles in turns. Proper set-up will add
stability and help prevent spin outs. Experiment with different springs
and shock oils to find what works best for your current track conditions.
Wheels and Tires - Many types of aftermarket tires and wheels can be
adapted for your model. Most will affect the overall width and the
suspension geometry of the model. The offsets and dimensions
designed into the model's wheels are intentional; therefore, Traxxas
cannot recommend the use of other wheels with different
specifications.
Adjusting the Slipper Clutch -
The model is equipped with
an adjustable slipper clutch
which is built into the large
spur gear. The purpose of the
slipper clutch is to regulate the
amount of power sent to the
rear wheels to prevent tire
spin. When it slips, the slipper
clutch makes a high-pitched,
chirping noise. Remove the
transmission cover in order to
adjust the slipper. Turn the
adjusting nut clockwise to
tighten and counter-clockwise
to loosen. Place the model on a high-traction surface, such as carpet.
Adjust the slipper so that you can hear it slip for approximately 2 feet
from a standing, full-throttle start.
Toe In- Geometry and alignment specs play an important roll in your
model's handling. Take the time to set them correctly. Set the steering
trim on your transmitter to neutral. Now, adjust your servo and tie rods
so that both wheels are pointing straight ahead and are parallel to each
other (0 degrees toe in). This will ensure the same amount of steering
in both directions. For increased stability add 1-2 degrees of toe in to
each front wheel. Use the turnbuckles to adjust the alignment.
The diameter of the wheels on the model are industry-standard sizes,
so there are an abundance of different tires available for you to
experiment with in addition to the Traxxas TRX Pro-series tires (listed in
your parts list). Experimentation with different types of tires is
recommended to see which ones work the best on the terrain where
the model is run. When selecting tires, consider the overall diameter
and the rubber compound (hard or soft). If the overall diameter of the
tire is significantly increased, you will need to use a smaller pinion gear
to compensate for the larger tire. Soft compound tires with many short
spikes generally work better on hard, dry surfaces. In loose dirt,
a harder tire with large spikes should perform better.
Motors and Gearing - There are two different types of aftermarket
motors which can be purchased for your model, stock and modified.
Pre-Load
Stock motors all have the same wire thickness and number of turns
Spacers
around the armature as governed by sanctioned racing organizations.
They are inexpensive, and widely available. Modified motors are more
expensive, may feature ball bearings and come in a variety of wire
thicknesses and number of turns of wire on the armature. The fewer
number of turns of wire on the armature, the more powerful the motor
will be. Keep in mind that the more powerful the motor, the less
battery run time you will have.
Toe-in