1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. GREAT PLAINS Manuals
  4. Toy
  5. Super Kybolt
  6. Manual

GREAT PLAINS Super Kybolt Manual

Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by
the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this
product, he is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION
BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS
AND
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARRANTY
WARNINGS
P.O. BOX 788 URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801 (217) 398-8970
ENTIRE CONTENTS © Copyright 1992, HOBBICO, INC.
SKY6P03 V1.1

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the Super Kybolt and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for GREAT PLAINS Super Kybolt

Summary of Contents for GREAT PLAINS Super Kybolt

  • Page 1 WARRANTY Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION.......... 3 GLUE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER HINGES . 64 PRECAUTIONS..........GLUE CANOPY IN PLACE ......64 OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED......4 ASSEMBLE WHEEL PANTS......65 SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED ....4 STRENGTHEN AND FUEL PROOF .... 66 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW..5 WING SEATING...........

  • Page 3: Introduction

    WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE! This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE — to build this kit correctly, to properly install all R/C components and flying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc) and to test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code It is suggested that you join...

  • Page 4: Other Items Required

    3 You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any class condition and meets the current AMA and FCC way guarantee the performance of your requirements and the requirements of your local flying completed model, and no representations are club, the correct sized engine and correct expressed or implied as to the performance...

  • Page 5: Decisions You Must Make Now

    DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW ENGINE AND MOUNT POSSIBLE RADIO INSTALLATIONS The recommended engine for the SUPER SKYBOLT is a 61* - 90 cubic inch (10 - 15cc) The Super Skybolt can utilize either one displacement 2-cycle or a 90 - 1 20 cubic inch or two aileron servos We recommend that you (15-20cc) displacement...
  • Page 6 DIE-CUT PATTERNS - 6 -...

  • Page 7: Tail Feathers

    TAIL FEATHERS BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER D 1. Tape the fuselage side view portion of the plan down onto your flat work surface Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder portion of the plan. D 5 Using the plan as a guide, cut 3 pieces of 1/16"...

  • Page 8: Build The Stabilizer And Elevators

    D 8. Draw a centerline all around the edges of the rudder. Sand the rudder to a taper as shown on the fuselage top view. The framework should D 12. Cut two 4" long pieces of 1/16" x 1-3/8" end up approximately 3/32" thick at the trailing balsa sheeting from the 1/16"...
  • Page 9 parts (SKY6S02 and SKY6S03) and the 3/16" x D 7 Glue the other side sheeting in place Be 3/4" x 24" balsa sticks (SKY6S05) Use the sure the stab is kept flat until the glue cures Trim hardest 3/16" x 3/4" stick for the stab trailing edge and sand the sheeting flush with the leading and Pin the parts in place over the plan as you trailing edges of the framework NOTE: It is...

  • Page 10: Temporarily Install Hinges

    TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES D 1 Using the plan as a guide, mark the hinge locations on the stab, elevators, fin and rudder Designate one side of the stab as being the top and one elevator as being "right" and the other as "left". D 11 Glue one 5-1/4"...

  • Page 11: Fuselage Assembly

    FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY PREPARE FUSE SIDES D 3 Refer to the plans and mark the location of the tailgear (WBNT128) on the rudder Drill a 7/64" D D 1 Working over the fuselage side view hole in the rudder (the hole is drilled slightly covered with waxed paper, trial fit a die-cut 1/8"...

  • Page 12: Assemble The Fuselage

    ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE D D 5. Trial fit a die-cut 1/8" balsa top aft fuse doubler (SKY6F07) and a die-cut 1/8" balsa bottom aft fuse doubler (SKY6F08) together. Sand them slightly if necessary to achieve a good fit, and glue them together. D 1.
  • Page 13 D 7. Slide the 1/32" ply braces out against the D 4. Slide two die-cut 1/32" ply bolt block braces (SKY6W06) onto both the 1/4" ply front and rear fuse sides and securely glue them in place with thick CA or epoxy. wing bolt blocks (SKY6F20 and SKY6F21).
  • Page 14 D 10 F1A has four lines embossed on it The two short lines are the actual horizontal center of the former The two crossing lines are offset to the left 6-32 Blind Nut (as viewed from the pilot's seat) of the horizontal center to automatically put the spinner in the center of the cowl when right thrust is built into the plane The crossing lines are what the engine...
  • Page 15 D 14 Snap the die-cut 1/8" ply cockpit bottom (SKY6F11) in place by inserting the rear tab into F3 and carefully sliding the front tab down into D B Tack glue the tab on the top of LG1 into the place in F2 Glue the cockpit bottom to the fuse fuel tank floor.

  • Page 16: Assemble Fuselage

    and the required number of spacers. Glue the D 17. Mount your engine to your mount following spacers to the firewall and screw your engine to the manufacturer's recommendations. Refer to the the mount. If the 2-1/2" screws protrude into the plans to make sure you get the engine positioned fuel tank compartment, cut them off flush with the far enough forward.
  • Page 17 possible. Make sure you will still be able to install and work on the servo linkages. These servo positions are not critical, but will help you balance the plane without using extra weight. The die-cut 1/8" ply servo tray (SKY6W10) is designed to fit in the doubler lightening hole for most installations, but will have to be cut down in width to fit towards the rear of the plane.

  • Page 18: Install Tail Pushrods

    D 9. Cut the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 18" balsa bottom D 7. Cut the 3/16" x 2" x 18" balsa sheet nose corner (SKY6F25) sheet in half to make two (SKY6F24) in half and glue the two 9" pieces 9"...

  • Page 19: Soldering Hints

    the plan These will make the "Y" part of the elevator pushrod. Lay the two 12" wires on the plan so they are lined up with the ones drawn Lay the forward pushrod wire on top of the two 12" rods and tack glue the three together with a drop of CA Wrap the pushrod junction with the silver wrapping wire (WIREST15) provided in the kit...

  • Page 20: Assemble The Cabanes

    ASSEMBLE THE CABANES D 5 Cut a scrap piece of balsa to fit about 2" in front of the pushrod "Y" junction and glue it in D 1 Punch out the die-cut 1/8" ply cabane wire place This will be a pushrod brace and both the holders (SKY6F13) and glue an "L"...

  • Page 21: Setting The Top Wing Incidence

    the front of each wire so it will easily slide into the assembly to the same length as the sides. Do not sand into the wood on the bottom of the tube. Test fit the tubes onto the wires. assemblies, though, as they are designed to automatically set the top wing incidence.

  • Page 22: Soldering The Cabane Wires Together

    to allow the front end of the holders to drop. If you have to raise the aft end of the holders off the cockpit bottom to set the incidence, you should glue scrap wood in the space between the holder and the cockpit bottom.

  • Page 23: Install Top Sheeting

    INSTALL TOP SHEETING D 4. Cut the three remaining stringers from the 3/16" sq. x 24" balsa sticks to fit between the instrument panel and the firewall. Glue them in place. D 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply instrument panel (SKY6F11) in place against the cabane holders.
  • Page 24 D 7. Test fit the nose side sheets in place and D 11. The sheeting around the cockpit should be sand them if required to get a good fit. Glue the top trimmed even with the side stringers and model edge of the side sheet to the middle stringer and filler should be used to fill in around the instrument the center sheet.
  • Page 25 D 15. Glue these "shims" to the fuselage doubler between formers F3 and F5 with the thin end near F3. Refer to the F3, F4 and F5 cross sectional D 18. Apply a bead of CA to the stringers and the views on the plans to help clarify where the shims formers and hold the sheeting in place with tape are positioned.

  • Page 26: Attach The Tail Surfaces To The Fuselage

    can also use the full sheet of sandpaper trick to smooth out the corners. D 22. For a very smooth turtle deck, pull a full sheet of 150 or 220 grit sandpaper around a corner of your work table. This helps "break in" the sheet. Then glue a 1/2"...
  • Page 27 D 6. Install the die-cut 1/8" ply stab hold downs (SKY6F12) by gluing them to the stab and former D 3. Test fit the fin in place. The fin post should F5. Slant them in towards the centerline as shown butt up against the fuse bottom and the fuse in the photo.

  • Page 28: Wing

    knots, soft spots, diagonal gram and any other imperfections If possible, position each spar so the imperfections (if any) are on the outer half of the wing panel (toward the tip), where they will be least affected by high stress If the spars are warped slightly, try to balance them out by installing the warped spars in opposite directions (see sketch).

  • Page 29: Build The Bottom Wing

    BUILD THE BOTTOM WING NOTE: It will be helpful to build the wing on a piece of "Celotex"* or other semi- soft (and flat) surface, into which you may easily stick pins to f i r m l y hold down the wing parts while building, to avoid warps.
  • Page 30 ribs (SKY6W11) Carefully glue one B5B rib to each "flashing" off the edges Be careful to cut at the B5A rib using thick CA Use the glue sparingly to angle shown so you don't change the width of the avoid getting glue in the l-strut cut-outs leading edges during this step D D 9 Carefully glue a B5B in place on the other side of each B5A Again be careful with the CA to...

  • Page 31: Build The Top Wing

    wing tip cut-out After this glue has cured, add thick CA to each spar in the razor saw slit to reinforce the joint there. D D 19 Cut the leading and trailing edges off to match the contour of the wing tip. Do not sand or shape them yet D 20.
  • Page 32 D D 6. Use the notched TE to accurately position D D 11. Glue the top spar in place (with the the outer T6 rib and glue it to the spar and the TE. doubler on the bottom). Make sure it is fully seated in the notches so it does not protrude above the top surface of the ribs.

  • Page 33: Join The Two Top Wing Halves

    D D 17 Cut the leading and trailing edges off to match the contour of the wing tip. Do not sand or shape them yet. Cut the root end of the LE, the TE and the spars to the correct length. D 18.
  • Page 34 IMPORTANT - keep both wing panels flat on the work surface during the following steps. D 6. Locate the four 1/8" x 1" x 1" ply top plate doublers (SKY6W32) and mark the middle of one side of each one Make the mark on a side that the grain runs along.
  • Page 35 bottom of the T1 ribs Correctly position the TE of the T1 ribs and glue them to the TE brace and the bottom spar Slide the rear plate all the way forward in its slot and securely glue it to the T1 ribs.
  • Page 36 These measurements must be equal! D 15 Insert the inner tube in the rear holder (you'll have to bend it to do so) and install the rear 1/4" basswood triangle wire guides Make sure the inner tube is straight during this step Remove the inner tube.

  • Page 37: Install The Top Wing Sheeting

    back of the spars Sand them if needed to make D 23. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x 3/4" basswood screw them fit between ribs T1 and T4 Securely glue the blocks (SKY6W39) to the outside of each T1 rib. braces in place with either thick CA or epoxy.
  • Page 38 D 6 Before applying the leading edge sheeting in the next steps, use your sanding block to lightly sand off the edges of the shear webs and smoothly blend the ribs to the spar Also, clean up the LE\rib joints to remove any excess glue D 3.
  • Page 39 D 10. Tilt the wing up, with the LE down, and apply a drop or two of thick (slow curing) CA to each rib. Hold the wing at an angle so the glue will flow down and coat the edge of each rib. Apply a D 14.
  • Page 40 D 18. Glue the two triangles you cut off the center sheet to the trailing edge sheeting as shown in the D 22. Add two 1/16" x 7/8" x 28" balsa TE sheets photo. After the glue cures, use a metal straight just as you did earlier on the top surface.
  • Page 41 D 29. Use a straightedge to draw lines on the LE D 26. Cut a rectangle out for each cabane wire. Start the rectangle out small and gradually enlarge sheeting along the edges of the T7 rib assemblies it to allow the wires to easily slip into place. When as shown in the photo.

  • Page 42: Finish The Top Wing

    edge and mark where to cut it to fit next to the FINISH THE TOP WING center trailing edge. NOTE: We are referring to this piece as an aileron even though it won't actually be an aileron. D 2. Cut the aileron off at this mark and test fit it in place.
  • Page 43 D 6 Trial fit the inner TE in place against the center TE Sand it if necessary to achieve a good D 9 Cut and sand the tip of the wing to match the outline on the plans Sand the entire wing tip smooth. fit and glue it in place Make sure it is aligned with the center TE and the chord line of the airfoil.

  • Page 44: Build The Interplane Struts

    balsa sheets (SKY6W25) as shown in the photo. Notice that a triangle is cut out of the sheeting to cover one tip of each strut. D 13. Cut and sand the center trailing edge to achieve a nice, smooth semi-circle. Also round off the edge as shown in the photo.
  • Page 45 and one of each goes into each end of the I-struts. The wires should be positioned in the strut so the D 7 Fill the horizontal wire slots with thick CA by top parts of the top wires and the bottom parts of holding the l-struts up and allowing the CA to flow the bottom wires line up with the plan This will set into each slot The 1/16"...

  • Page 46: Join And Sheet The Bottom Wing

    Check the fit of the two panels. The spars, leading and trailing edges should all meet up nicely. If they don't, sand where needed and re-check the fit. When satisfied with the fit, glue the two panels together with thick CA or epoxy. Make sure the spars and leading and trailing edges line up with each other, and the wing is up against former F2.
  • Page 47 D 6. Trial fit the die-cut 1/16" ply front dihedral D 9. Glue the die-cut 1/8" ply B1B ribs brace (SKY6W07) in place. Sand the ends of the (SKY6W10) in place. brace if necessary to get it to fit between the B2A ribs.
  • Page 48 NOTE; It will be helpful to have the x 7/8" x 28" balsa trailing edge sheeting (SKY6W20). This must be done on an absolutely following items handy for the next steps flat surface or the wing will not end up straight. .

  • Page 49: Finish The Bottom Wing

    works OK) to hold the sheeting in place while the glue cures. It is important to keep the wing flat during this process as the LE sheeting will help "lock" the wing together. We won't glue the sheeting to the wing tip until later. D 23.
  • Page 50 400mm (16") and one standard Futaba extension. The extensions are glued into the wing, so when using two extensions per servo it is a good idea to tack glue or heat shrink the connectors together. Glue the servo end connector to the last B4 rib, and glue the extension to each rib as shown in the photo.
  • Page 51 D 11. Tape the hatch cover in position, approximately 1/32" away from the TE sheeting, and add 1/16" balsa between the front of the hatch D 8. Cut through the TE sheeting to expose the and the LE sheeting. Allow a 1/32" gap between rest of the rear I-strut slot.
  • Page 52 D 17. Position a 17/32" shaped balsa aileron (SKY6W18) on the BOTTOM wing plan, and line it up with the trailing edge on the left wing panel. Use the cutting marks drawn on the plans to make the three required cuts. You will now have an D 14.
  • Page 53 ONE AILERON SERVO D 21 Glue the outer TE in place approximately D 1 Cut a notch in each grooved balsa bottom 1/16" away from the aileron Look down the trailing wing center TE (SKY6W40) The notch should be edge of all three pieces to make sure they are all 3/4"...
  • Page 54 D 5. Glue the torque rods into the grooves in the center TE pieces. Make sure you install the left torque rod in the left TE piece. D 9. Drill a 7/64" hole in the ailerons at the torque rod locations, starting at the LE centerline and drilling straight in approximately 1-1/8".
  • Page 55 1/16" away from the ailerons, and line up with the ailerons and the chord line of the airfoil Nylon Swivel Nylon Swivel Clevis D 18 Thread the nylon swivels (NYLON20) onto the torque rods until the pins are approx 3/4" D 15 Cut off the excess tip stock following the above the surface of the wing Screw a 12"...

  • Page 56: Finish And Attach The Wing

    FINISH AND ATTACH THE WING D 4. Sand the wing saddle smooth, and test fit the bottom wing in place. You may have to sand the wing saddle or the wing TE slightly to get a good fit D 1. Make a mark on the LE and TE sheeting between the two.

  • Page 57: Final Assembly

    D 2 Tack glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa rear belly former (SKY642) in place against former F3 and the wing TE Sand it until it matches the contour of the fuse bottom. D 7 Remove the wing, and enlarge the holes in the fuselage wing bolt blocks only to 19/64"...

  • Page 58: Install The Landing Gear

    NOTE: The sheeting should only lap onto the 3/16" stick halfway (3/32") to allow room for the other side to glue on. Try to center the die-cut semi-circles over the wing bolts D 6. Cut a piece of 3/16" sq. balsa stick (SKY6F26) to fit between the two belly formers, and glue it to the formers and the wing where the wing touches it.

  • Page 59: Assemble The Cowl

    D 2. Now measure 2-1/8" to each side of the center of the fuse bottom, and make a mark on the saw cut you just made. Measure 1-7/8" to each side of the center at F2, and make a mark on the #6 x 3/4"...
  • Page 60 on the cowl back. Using medium grit sandpaper, lightly scuff up the surfaces where the two pieces will be joined for better glue adhesion Make sure they are correctly aligned with each other (look at the cowl profile from the side and top) and glue them together with CA.
  • Page 61 of the cowl, approximately 3/8" in front of the cowl NOTE: If you are going to use a spinner aft edge The holes should be somewhat centered that has a backplate that extends on the sides and go through the balsa fuselage behind the face of the thrust washer, you will need to allow for the additional space required.

  • Page 62: Prepare The Canopy

    leave it in the dye solution, the darker it will tint. The powdered dye will produce a darker tint than w i l l the l i q u i d . CAUTION: Do not heat the dye water above hot tap water temperature, as this could deform the canopy.

  • Page 63: Make The Top Wing Lock

    Small Nylon Control Horn D 2 If you built your Skybolt with four ailerons, hold the six small nylon control horns (NYLON03) on the top and bottom wing ailerons in the positions shown on the plan, and mark the mounting hole locations Drill 3/32" holes at these locations.

  • Page 64: Final Sanding

    FINAL SANDING GLUE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER HINGES Check over the entire structure carefully, inspecting for any poorly glued joints, gaps and "dings' Apply D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plans, additional glue and/or balsa filler as necessary and mark on the leading edge of each part, the Then sand the entire fuselage and wing smooth locations of the hinges and the tail wheel bearing...

  • Page 65: Assemble Wheel Pants

    D 3. Use your wheel to determine the area to be cut out of the wheel pant for the wheel opening. D 4. To hide the canopy glue joint, you can use This area should be at least 1/8" larger than the 1/8"...
  • Page 66 D 11. Use a 1-1/4" tall wood block at the rear of each pant to position the pants as shown in the sketch. D 6. Center the 1/8" x 1/2" x 1" ply wheel pant plates (PLY3013) over the 5/32" holes on the inside of the pants, and glue them in place.

  • Page 67: Strengthen And Fuel Proof

    STRENGTHEN AND FUEL PROOF FINAL HOOK-UPS THE NOSE D 1. Reinstall the engine, cowl, propeller, spinner, battery, receiver and the switch. Attach both wings to the fuselage. Screw the nylon control horns back onto all the control surfaces. D 1. Remove the engine and mount, and tie up the fuel tubes to keep them out of the way.

  • Page 68: Control Throws

    BALANCE YOUR MODEL NOTE: This section is VERY important and must not be omitted! A model that not properly balanced w i l l be unstable and possibly unflyable. D 1 Accurately mark the balance point on the BOTTOM of the top wing The balance point is and slide a solder clevis (METAL024) onto each shown on the plan (CG), and is located 2-3/4"...

  • Page 69: Final Checks

    meter reveals a deviation of more than 1/4 degree FINAL CHECKS from the desired readings, you must grasp the wing at the tip and twist it slightly, while reheating D 1 Make sure the control surfaces move in the the covering material Keep checking, twisting and proper direction as illustrated in the following sketch.

  • Page 70: Range Check Your Radio

    Make all engine adjustments from behind the RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO rotating propeller. Check the operation of the radio before every time The engine gets hot' Do not touch it during or after you fly. This means with the transmitter antenna operation Make sure fuel lines are in good collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you condition so fuel is not leaked onto a hot engine...

  • Page 71: Flying

    2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C spectators until I become a qualified flyer, unless AIRPLANES) If, while flying, you notice any assisted by an experienced helper. unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched "buzz", this may be an indication of control 3.

  • Page 72: 2-View Drawing

    2-VIEW DRAWING...

Table of Contents