Advertisement
MISCELLANEOUS TIPS & TRICKS
When using the Power-Flex with cells that have not received regular Power-Flex
conditioning, it is common for the charger to false peak and trip off several times before
the charge is complete. This is due to erratic cell voltages that occur until Power-Flex
conditions cells for reduced resistance. Either turn the Power-Flex off, or leave it on
and restart the charge a few times. After Power-Flex conditioning has been used on
the cells for a few charges, they will produce a proper charge curve and increased
power.
When using a DC power supply, try to use one as powerful as possible for best
results. A 13 to 14 volt power supply will allow a better, higher peak of 7 cells than a 12
volt supply or lead-acid battery will. A power supply with good filtering and regulation
will provide more reliable peaks, especially when using several chargers on one power
supply, or when using Power-Flex.
You may disable the key buzzer by pressing both middle buttons simultaneously.
The buzzer is reset on by momentarily removing all power from the charger.
Charging:
Always make sure your cells are cool before beginning a fast charge. If you have
just run the car, let the cells cool for about an hour before recharging. This is critical for
performance and cell life, as Ni-Cad cells do not accept a full charge at temperatures
over about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. After charging the cells let them cool fully. This usu-
ally takes at least 20 minutes. You may then re-peak them until they are slightly warm
to the touch. They will then be ready to run.
Discharging:
If you wish to get the best possible performance out of you batteries, you will need
to first discharge the pack before charging. Fully discharging cells is one of the most
effective ways to prevent memory, power loss and capacity loss. With P-170, SCRC
and 2000 mAh cells, this should always be done. The pack should first run down in the
car by normal use, then do one of the following.
1)
Place an approximately 30 ohm, 10 watt resistor across the battery pack. The
resistor will cool off when the cells discharge in about 30 minutes. It can then be
removed and the pack allowed to rest for preferably at least 24 hours before charging.
2)
Place a single 1 ohm 5 watt resistor across each individual cell. This method is
slightly better, as each cell then gets discharged independently of the other, thereby
assuring a fully matched discharge. These resistors are available as accessories at
better hobby shops.
Ni-MH cells do not generally require deep discharging for proper maintainence.
Optional Add-On Discharger/Cycler:
A precision electronic discharger is available from Tekin as an add-on module for
the BC112 series. This unit, model number DIS-350, will test, cycle, and match you bat-
teries for absolutely maximum performance. It discharges at up to 30 amps, (45 amps
momentary) and will train your cells to run stronger, longer. The DIS-350 can be used
by itself, or connected to the input-output connectors and expansion wire on the side
of the charger for automatic cycling.
-7-
T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G
Almost all problems are caused poor or loose connections that trip the peak detec-
tor when the wires are bumped or moved. Make certain the charger wires are tightly
connected to the battery pack, Any connectors should be clean (use motor spray) and
tight. Alligator clips are best clipped to piece of multi-strand flexible wire so the teeth
can sink in.
A) When using a 12 volt automotive charger or external AC power supply, line surges
or dropouts will occasionally cause problems.
B) If the unit slow charges, but will not fast charge when you press the start button,
the output wires may be shorted or hooked up in reverse.
C) Be careful not to hook up the charger backwards as the fuse may blow. You can
replace the fuse yourself with a 20 amp unit.
D) If the power supply, battery, fuse, and all connections all check out okay and the
charger either stays on or off all the time, of blow fuses, then the MOSFET transistor
inside the charger may have been damaged. This can happen if the units is shorted,
overheated of connected to an improper power supply.
E) If it should ever be necessary to return unit to factory for repair, be sure to enclose
a note stating the nature of the problem, the return address, shipping instructions and
any special instructions. Most repairs are shipped back out within 3 days, C.O.D.
Please allow up to 2 weeks for shipping.
ERROR CODES
If something unusual occurs while charging, the display may show one of the fol-
lowing error codes:
ECO:
An internal reset has occurred. This is usually caused by static. The charge must be
restarted.
EC2:
Indicates a problem with the power supply. The charge current has dropped below the
selected amperage value. The power supply may not be strong enough to maintain the
selected charge current. Try charging at a lower amperage setting by changing the
value in AMPS SET mode, or using a higher amperage rated power supply. If this does
not work, the problem may be from power supply disturbances or line transients.
EC5:
Indicated excessive current flow. Check to see if the battery is connected backwards or
shorted.
EC6:
This error code is caused by the Ni-Cad being connected to the charger backwards
(reverse polarity). Reconnect the battery correctly, and restart.
ECF: A high amp surge over 25 amps occurred due to a line voltage surge, and the
charger shut down to avoid blowing a fuse. Try charging again.
-8-
Hide quick links:
Advertisement
