Summary of Contents for X-Factor X–60
- Page 1 X – 60 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS www.2wdrc.com Version 1.0 X – 60 CONVERSION KIT X – 60 Instructions Version 1.0 Page 1...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
TABLE OF CONTENTS T4 Disassembly…………………………………………………………..Bag A – Transmission Assembly………………..………………………. Front End Installation……………………………………………………… Bag B – Bulkhead & Transmission Install ……………………………… Bag C – Rear Suspension Assembly…….……………………………… 25 Bag D – Final Assembly………………………………………………….. Tuning Section……………………………………………………………… 33 X – 60 Instructions Version 1.0 Page 2... - Page 3 X – 60 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FIRST THINGS FIRST A) ASSUMPTIONS These instructions assume several things: 1. You have at least some experience building R/C cars. These instructions are not written for a first-timer. 2. You have the usual assortment of R/C tools. 3.
- Page 4 SOME IMPORTANT INFORMATION This is our third Kit, and we know we are not perfect. If you experience the slightest difficulty assembling your X – 60, either because a part does not fit properly or because you have difficulty with the instructions, please contact us immediately.
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Page 5: T4 Disassembly
X - 60 INSTRUCTIONS T4 DISASSEMBLY FRONT END Remove the body. Save all the body clips for re-use. Remove the front wheels. Leave the wheel bearings inside the wheels. Save the wheels and nuts for re-use. Disconnect the servo link from the servo horn. Leave it connected to the steering bell crank. - Page 6 Remove the two flat head screws which hold the bulkhead to the chassis. Save them for re-use. From the top of the truck, remove the center screw holding the top plate to the post on the T4 chassis. Save the screw for re-use. Remove the two side top plate screws.
- Page 7 REAR CVDs & HUB CARRIERS Remove the wheels and tires. Save them and the nuts for re-use. Remove the two nuts that hold the top of the rear shocks on. Save them for re- use. Slide the shocks off the bolts, and save the mounting bushings for re-use. Remove the nuts that hold the shock bolts in the tower.
- Page 8 Remove the inner camber link ball cups from their studs. Leave them attached to the turnbuckle and leave the other end of the link attached to its ball stud at the hub carrier. Then remove the ball studs. Save the ball studs and any washers that were under them for re-use.
- Page 9 TRANSMISSION Remove the two button head screws that secure the gear cover. Remove the cover. The cover and screws will not be needed. Remove the slipper nut, then the spring, slipper plate, slipper pad, spur gear, inside slipper pad, and inside slipper plate. You will not need the spur gear, but you must save all the other parts for re-use.
- Page 10 Remove the three bolts that go through the transmission and hold the motor plate on. Save these bolts for reuse in A-12; the plate will not be needed. Two flat head screws hold the body mounts on from the front of the tower. You may remove them and the mounts if you wish, or just loosen and twist the mounts out of the way for step 21.
- Page 11 As the case halves come apart, remove and save all of the following parts: Top shaft, spacer, and two 3/8 X 3/16 bearings, Idler gear, two more 3/8 X 3/16 bearings, & idler shaft, Ball differential and two ½ X 5/8 outdrive bearings.
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Page 12: Bag A - Transmission Assembly
BAG A TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY Let’s do this first because the parts are right in front of us. CLEAN IT UP! We suggest you clean and inspect all your T4 transmission parts at this time. You might want to re-build the diff. If you re-lube the bearings, make sure the outside is clean and dry so they do not attract dirt. - Page 13 Install a 3/8 X 3/16 (6906) bearing all the way into the top shaft boss in the left transmission case half. The Team pushes them in with the shank of an Allen driver or, better yet, with a socket. See Inst. A5. Install an outdrive bearing (6903) in its boss.
- Page 14 Gather the idler gear (9360) from your T4, the idler gear from Bag A, the two 3/8 X 3/16 bearings (6906) from your T4 and the two 3/8/ X 3/16 bearings from Bag A (left photo) Install two bearings in each idler gear, one from each side. (center) If a bearing is hard to install, we suggest a socket where the OD of the socket matches the diameter of the outer race of the bearing so you do not push on the balls or the inner race.
- Page 15 In the right side of the transmission case, insert the remaining 3/8 X 3/16 bearing (6906) in the top shaft boss and the remaining outdrive bearing (6903) in its boss. Place a small bead of inexpensive grease around the mating surface of the right transmission half.
- Page 16 A10) Install the 4-40 X 3/8” bolt in the corner (short arrow) and the 4-40 X ½” bolt (from instruction #22) in the rear center of the transmission (long arrow). Leave them finger tight until step A12. Make sure the head of the 3/8”...
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Page 17: Front End Installation
FRONT END INSTALLATION A13) Install two 4-40 X 1 1/4” black flat head screws (short arrows) up from the bottom of the chassis in the two forward outside battery posts. Install the two stainless 4-40 X 1 ½” flat head screws (long arrows) in the two rear inside battery posts. These screws go all the way through the four battery hold-down posts and will secure the battery hold-down strap. - Page 18 A15) Secure the top plate with the three screws you took out from the T4. Leave these screws finger-tight for now. A16) Carefully turn the chassis & front suspension over. Install the two 5/8” flat head screws you removed from the bulkhead back into the rear-most of the four holes at the front of the chassis.
- Page 19 A18) Now secure the three screws for the top plate that you left finger tight in step A14 above That’s it -- front end is done. X – 60 Instructions Version 1.0 Page 19...
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Page 20: Bag B - Bulkhead & Transmission Install
BAG B BULKHEAD & TRANSMISSION PREPARATION Install four ½” threaded inserts in the rear of the chassis from the bottom. Make sure the hex of each insert seats properly in the chassis. You may have to tap lightly to fully seat the inserts. The inserts should remain in place through the transmission install, and it’s easiest to do them now. - Page 21 BULKHEAD Pre-tap the four holes in the rear of the bulkhead. Install a 4-40 X 5/8” cap head screw in the rear center hole of the bulkhead. Put the screw in until the threads are almost ready to emerge from the part. (Left photo) Then turn the bulkhead upside down and place the two 3/8”...
- Page 22 NOTE: Tolerances are tight where the chassis mates with the bulkhead. Most bulkheads fit OK, but some are slightly oversized in one small spot. If you have one of these, please lightly run a file over the back inside corners of the chassis’...
- Page 23 Place the shims for the left rear and right front transmission bolts on their chassis bosses. Slide the transmission down over them and install two 4-40 X 5/8” cap head bolts and flat washers. Leave these bolts finger tight for now. Place a flat washer about half way on the last 4-40 X 5/8”...
- Page 24 B10) Place the final spacer under the left front transmission mounting tab. Put the washer on the 4-40 X ½” button head bolt and engage the bolt with your wrench. Work the wrench down between the transmission and the motor plate to install this screw.
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Page 25: Bag C - Rear Suspension Assembly
BAG C REAR SUSPENSION ASSEMBLE THE HUB CARRIERS We’ll do the right arm first. AE hub carriers (9584) have 0 degrees of toe-in, so we’ll put the left one, marked “L” on the right side to make the camber links straighter. X – 60 control arms are Interchangeable;... - Page 26 Secure the hinge pin with the 2-56 screw. Be careful not to strip the hole for the screw – don’t be a gorilla here. Repeat C1 through C4 for the left side. ASSEMBLE CONTROL ARMS TO THE TRUCK Bag C contains two brass bushings. When these photos were taken, only the plastic prototypes were available.
- Page 27 X – 60 control arms and toe-in bars have been designed for about .060” of shims. Your AE shims are about .030, so the arms can go forward, middle, or back. Team drivers rarely space the arms forward, and they like having a shim between the arm and the bushing.
- Page 28 C11) Consult the Tuning Section and Set-Up sheet to determine how many shims you will use under the toe-in bar tp set anti-squat. You have a bag with four 060” and two .030” shims which allow you to make .030” increments from zero to .150”.
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Page 29: Bag D - Final Assembly
BAG D FINISH IT UP REAR TOWER & SHOCKS Install the body mounts to the shock tower using four 4-40 X 3/8” cap head screws. Make sure the mounts are straight. Install the tower, with body mounts forward, using four 4-40 X ½” cap head bolts (two from bag, two from instruction #21). - Page 30 ELECTRONICS As a tuning option, we have included two sets of mounting holes for the servo, forward and back. Check the Tuning Section and Set-up sheet to see which you will use. These photos show the servo in the forward position.
- Page 31 Use the four 4-40 lock nuts to install the battery strap. There is room for the wires on your LiPo pack on the left side of the chassis. If you will use NiMh cells, you need part # 1224, a CF strap that fits just as the LiPo strap fits.
- Page 32 BODY Paint that great J Concepts body, then remove the blue overspray shield, cut out the wing, and bolt the wing to the body. Cut out the body along the cut lines and carefully line the body up with the four body mounts, then use your ream to make the four holes for the posts.
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Page 33: Tuning Section
TUNING SECTION It’s like Ripley’s Believe It Or Not – Take it for what it’s worth! TRANSMISSION HEIGHT The X – 60 is the first mass produced off-road truck we know of with adjustable transmission height. This allows you to adjust the height of the point of contact between the dogbones and the outdrives. - Page 34 decreases, but you can do it. On the xx-4 it was discovered that toe-in at the pivot performs differently from toe-in at the hub, so please have at it and let us know how it works out. Anti-squat adjusts the up-and-down angle of the rear hinge pins, thus affecting the angle of the rear hubs.
- Page 35 GEARING AND SLIPPER The Team mainly uses the 78 spur gear. The T4 spur simply won’t fit, and this means you will want to go down about two teeth on your pinion. The 81 will fit, but to use it you should grind a bit off the ends of the dogbone pins so the pins no longer protrude from the outdrives.
- Page 36 X – 60 Instructions Version 1.0 Page 36...