Swallow Boats BayRaider Owner's Manual

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BayRaider

Owners Manual

SwallowBoats Ltd, Gwbert Rd, Cardigan, Wales, SA43 1PN

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Summary of Contents for Swallow Boats BayRaider

Page 1: Owners Manual
BayRaider Owners Manual SwallowBoats Ltd, Gwbert Rd, Cardigan, Wales, SA43 1PN...
Page 2: Table Of Contents
Contents Contents ............................2 Introduction..........................3 Specification ..........................3 Safety Information........................4 The RCD Design Category....................4 Loading ..........................4 Safety Equipment .........................4 Air Buoyancy........................4 Self Draining Cockpit ......................5 Water Ballast ........................5 Self Righting, Side Decks, and Asymmetric Capsize Buoyancy,........5 Capsize Recovery.........................6 Re-boarding ..........................7 The Ketch Rig........................7 Commissioning.........................8 Introduction...........................8 Trailering ..........................8...
Page 3: Introduction
Introduction Congratulations on the purchase of your new Swallow Boats BayRaider. We are confident that you will have many hours of fun from this boat. Please take the time to read this owners manual through completely before taking your boat out for the first time. Although she has been designed with safety in mind, the single most important safety factor is the weather.
Page 4: Safety Information
Safety Information Your new boat has some innovative design features that make her a safer boat than most open craft of her type. Despite these features, we urge caution in her use at all times, especially if the boat is new to the user, remember weather conditions are never predictable.
Page 5: Self Draining Cockpit
Water Ballast The water ballast is an integral part of the BayRaider. It works by admitting 300kg of water into a central chamber under the floor, thus substantially increasing the boats stability, particularly at high angles of heel.
Page 6: Capsize Recovery
Capsize Recovery We have only capsized the BayRaider deliberately for tests. You can see the video of this on our website, but we would also strongly recommend that you capsize her yourself.
Page 7: Re-Boarding
Getting back on board can be difficult and it is advisable to practice this when swimming alongside the boat. The BayRaider has sufficient stability to make reboarding over the side easily possible without re capsizing the boat, unless the main sheet is cleated in and the wind is against.
Page 8: Commissioning
Commissioning Introduction Rig the boat in your garden or front drive before you contemplate launching her for the first time. Do not raise sails in gusty conditions, especially in built up areas where the wind direction can change quickly without warning. Trailering Your boat is likely to come on her trailer.
Page 9 handy to have the jib sheets threaded through the boom and cleated off, to ensure the back end of the boom does not fall overboard when raising. Once you have the mast vertical lean on it while tightening the jib halyard. Pull this as hard as you can, then cleat off.
Page 10 Photo1 - The jib shackled to the furling drum (5). Note the furling line running to the furling cleat (1) and the clew line running to the clew outhaul cleat (3). The jib sheet passes through a bullseye on the boom (2). The whole assembly is shackled to the stem head via a rope strop (4).
Page 11 Photo 2. The head of the jib (1) is shackled to the top swivel (2) which is shackled to the jib halyard (4). Photo 3. The rope strop (1) should be regularly inspected for wear. Note how the strop is folded over the boom, thus theoretically multiplying the ropes breaking load by 4.
Page 12 Photo 4 Mast head - lowered. The jib halyard (2) is threaded through the head block (1). This boat is equipped for a spinnaker, the halyard of which would be threaded through the empty lower block. The shrouds (3) should be regularly checked, especially for tightness.
Page 13 Photo 5. Note the non-return clam cleat on the mast (1) for the jib halyard, which is then cleated off more permanently at 3. The main halyard is cleated at 4.
Page 14 Photo 6. The bottom end of the shrouds shackled onto the chainplates (1) via a rope strop (2). There should be at least 4 complete turns around the shackle/wire eye before any tying off. Now that the main mast is up, you should have room to step the mizzen. On the GRP boats there is a large stainless washer with a bit taken out of it, to lock the mast in place in the event of capsize.
Page 15: The First Sail
Photo 7: The mizzen setup, with sail set. once unrolled, sit the front end of the jib boom into the prussic loop on the mast (4), pushing the loop up as far as the sail will allow. Then tension the outhaul as much as you can, best done by sweating the rope between the cleat (3) and the end of the boom (1).
Page 16: Raising Sail
Due to her fat stern, she will pick up buoyancy and float in very shallow water. Un-clip the bow, and bring the boat alongside the jetty. Re park the car. Raising Sail We normally begin by setting the mizzen, then raising the mainsail (depending on wind direction and strength) then lastly setting the jib.
Page 17 Next you should attach the mast jaws to the mast, above the non return clam cleat (point 1, photo 5). You can also connect up the rope parrel bead strops here to save doing it when the sail is set (these are just visible behind the jib on photo 1 - they clip round the mast by inserting the bead end through the eye).
Page 18: Rigging And Using The Spinnaker
the jib by releasing the small furling line and pulling on the thicker clew line until the clew of the jib is right up against the aft end of the jib boom. Tips: • Not many boats have a rudder that be can be completely lifted out of the water. Double check you have released it before you set sail! •...
Page 19: Reefing
will not have as much grip on the water. The gusts will tend to head the boat round into wind. You can mitigate this somewhat by sailing with the mizzen slackened. You can also use the mizzen to back the stern of the boat round. Pull it all the way hard to windward and the boat will turn about very quickly, like backing the jib.
Page 20: Recovery
do leak slowly, so expect water to fill the ballast tanks in time if on a permanently wet mooring. Recovery Recovering your boat can be done single handed, though in strong cross winds it is easier to have help. Here is our way of doing it single handed: Sail the boat to the jetty and land on the upwind side of it.
Page 21 It is a good idea to keep a small quantity of araldite or other epoxy handy for any odd jobs. The Plywood used to build your boat is by and large 6mm thick, which is not really deep enough to hold a screw. Therefore if you want to add any fittings or modify your boat, the best way is to glue a pad of timber to the area in question, after first scraping or sanding off any paint.
Page 22: Warranty
Warranty 1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise. 2. Swallowboats warrants all parts of the basic hull to be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and circumstances, and the exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of two years from the date of commissioning by the original owner.