To operate the ECO-MATIC ESC 16:

1. Power Connection: Connect the ECO-MATIC ESC 16 to the same "LOAD" terminals as the 220V filter pump using a time clock or electrical panel. Ensure the yellow/green wire is connected to ground.

2. Connecting the Cell:
- The cell lead is factory-attached to the power pack.
- Attach the BLACK and WHITE connectors to the corresponding female fittings on the cell head.
- Push the smaller (gas sensor) connector onto the threaded bolt of the cell head.

3. Start-Up:
- After installation, power on the unit.
- Use the control and display panel to monitor and adjust settings.

4. Indicators:
- Monitor the digital display for indicators and system status.
- Refer to the display panel for operational alerts or required actions.

5. Flow Sensor (ESC models):
- The BLUE flow sensor should be attached to the threaded shaft of the small bolt on the cell.

Regular maintenance and water testing are necessary for proper operation.

This answer is automatically generated

Wanda Robertson

May 16, 2025

Where is the cell button located

Charles Caldwell

April 26, 2025

Gas sensor connector for Ecomatic ESC 16 detached from the wire connecting it to the PowerPack. How do I fix? Can I buy a new connector and reattach to the wire?

Summary of Contents for ECO-MATIC ESC 16

Page 1 Manufacturer Date Codes, Salt Requirements ....1 Page ECO-matic ESC Installation/Operating Instructions ..24 Pages ECO-matic ESC Service Instructions ........ 40 Pages ECO-matic ESC Parts List / Parts Schematic ...... 2 Pages ECOsalt BMSC Service Instructions ......... 28 Pages ECOspa Service Instructions ........... 24 Pages Salt Chlorinator Spare Parts Guide ........
Page 2 ECO-MATIC DATE CODE STAMP DESIGNATIONS P cell Year colors 2001 Black Dark Blue 2002 2003 Terracotta 2004 Marigold 2005 Green Grey 2006 2007 Black 2008 Blue 2009 Yellow 2010 Date Code Stamp on the cell can be found on the plastic cell head support housing between the terminals...
Page 3: Operating Instructions
Installation Operating Instructions FOR MODELS: ESC 16 ESC 24 ESC 36 ESC 48...
Page 4: Table Of Contents
Packing List Your ECO-matic product consists of the following components. Please confirm that you have all components when attempting to install your ECO-matic. 1 – Power Pack (Please confirm the Input Voltage is as ordered – 220-240V or 110V) 1 – Cell (Including clear plastic Cell Housing)
Page 5: Your Eco-Matic Equipment
– salt. Your ECO-matic will do exactly the same thing as ‘pool chlorine’ would do, but without the need to add (or swim in) potentially harmful, toxic man-made sanitizing chemicals.
Page 6: Installation Check List
• ‘Power Pack’ connected to main power (be sure your 220/240V or 110V ECO-matic is connected to correct voltage). • You must check and confirm that your ECO-matic ‘Power Pack’ switches ON and OFF in time with the filter pump.
Page 7: Controls And Display Panel
Controls and Display Panel The rate at which your ECO-matic produces (sanitizer for your pool) varies (see below) and is indicated on the DIGITAL DISPLAY (Eg: 90 – 100 or in winter mode 75 – 85). There are two lights on the Control Panel – LED 1 and LED 2 – which will indicate whether the system is working as intended or whether there may be faulty or damaging operating conditions (such as low salt levels).
Page 8: Indicators - What They Mean
(in heated equipment rooms for example), lower than normal power voltage, low salt levels, scaling occurring on ‘Cell’. Provided LED 1 and LED 2 are both GREEN ( and the ‘Cell’ is not scaling excessively), your ECO-matic is performing (producing) satisfactorily.
Page 9: Stand-By Indicator
The setting on the System Control determines the amount of time for which the ECO-matic will operate during the filtration cycle. The System Control dial is graduated approximately as follows: 0% (MIN), 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, (MAX) 100%.
Page 10: Low Salinity Indicator And Cut-Out
Your ECO-matic is fitted with a number of protective features including the Low Salinity Indicator and a Cut-Out feature. As the salt level in the pool decreases, the wear on the ‘Cell’ increases. Although salt is not consumed in the ECO-matic process, it is lost through splashing, back-washing and on bathers as they leave the pool.
Page 11: Gas Sensor
The smaller of the three leads which connect to the ‘Cell’ head is the Gas Sensor. Whenever the head of the Gas Sensor bolt loses contact with the water (due to gas or air pocket in ‘Cell’, or scale build-up on sensor bolt head), your ECO-matic will Cut-Out.
Page 12 (saves having to make the solution each time). Avoid getting the acid solution on skin or in your eyes. If you accidentally do so, wash off immediately with fresh water (or use the pool/spa water). Please do not hesitate to contact your ECO-matic Dealer for any assistance regarding ‘Cell’ cleaning.
Page 13 Operating your ECO-matic at lower than recommended salinity level will shorten the life of your ‘Cell’ and will void warranties on the ‘Cell’. An excess of salt (up to 6000 ppm) is acceptable and will not harm the ECO-matic (in fact, the system operates more efficiently at higher salt levels).
Page 14: Maintenance Of The Water
(especially important in hot, sunny areas). If the conditioner level is too low you will find it difficult to maintain a good residual of sanitizer in the water – and your ECO-matic will need to work twice as hard as it would if the conditioner level was correct.
Page 15: Water Testing - What To Test For
Test and adjust daily, initially, until you achieve consistent readings. Then test at least weekly, or whenever pool conditions or usage changes. How to Adjust Use the ECO-matic System Control (and/or vary filter operating time, being sure to run filter at least the recommended daily hours). Why Sanitizer? Micro organisms, germs, algae want to grow in your pool water.
Page 16: Trouble Shooting
Phosphates Phosphates in swimming pool water can reduce the level and effectiveness of sanitizer in pools, causing the ECO-matic to work harder than necessary; any amount (over 50 ppb) of phosphate should be removed by using a phosphate- removing chemical available at your local pool supple. We recommend having your pool water tested for phosphates annually to insure good performance and long cell life.
Page 17: Important Safety Instruction - Usa
Important Safety Instructions – USA When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: 1. READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS 2. WARNING – To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to use this product unless they are closely supervised at all times.
Page 18: Installation Summary
A basic ingredient of the ECO-matic process is Pool Salt. The salt is added directly into the pool or spa water to produce the water salinity required to enable your ECO-matic to function properly. Pool Salt is available in bags of various sizes from your local pool professional.
Page 19: Before Installing Your Eco-Matic
How good is the water in your pool/spa? In most instances, pools can be simply converted to the ECO-matic system without the need to change the pool water. However, if the water is ‘old’ (older than say 3 years), or if the water has been subjected to high degrees of chemical dosing, or has been kept in generally poor condition, you may want to consider dumping that water and refilling the pool.
Page 20: Installing The 'Cell Housing
(with sufficient slack to allow removal of the ‘Cell’ from the ‘Cell Housing’). Note: The ‘Cell’ cord can be extended if absolutely necessary, but you must first contact your ECO-matic Dealer for important instructions. * For cord-connected units, locate the ‘Power Pack’ so its cord is within reach of the point where it is to be connected to mains power (eg: pool Timer).
Page 21: Connecting 'Power Pack' To Power Supply
Voltage Your ECO-matic ‘Power Pack’ has been designed to operate on either 110V or 220/240V AC. It cannot be switched from one voltage to the other, so must be ordered in the same voltage as the power to your filter pump. Note: Units for larger pools are available ONLY in 220/240V.
Page 22: Adding Salt To Your Pool
How Much Salt To Add Calculate the volume of water in your pool - or call your ECO-matic Dealer with the dimensions of the pool (length, width, average depth etc) for assistance. Multiply the water volume (in gallons) by 0.0460 for ESC models, to get the required amount of salt to be added (in lbs).
Page 23: Start-Up Procedure
30-second Start-Up Phase (which occurs each time your ECO-matic is switched ON). NOTE: The ON/OFF switch on the front control panel of your ECO-matic can be left in the ON position (other than at times when you want the ECO-matic to be OFF while the ﬁlter pump is operating). The Timing device or switch which turns your ﬁlter pump ON and OFF will also switch the ECO-matic ON and OFF (providing the electrical connection to the...
Page 24 Notes...
Page 26 P/N 401633-2...
Page 27 ECO-matic ESC Chlorinator SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS...
Page 28 WARNING: ALL ELECTRICAL WORK TO BE PERFORMED BY SUITABLY QUALIFIED ELECTRICAL PERSONNEL. Always disconnect from electrical supply BEFORE any work is carried out. Handle components carefully to avoid personal injury. Tools Required • 8mm spanner • Phillips head screwdriver – One point • Phillips head screwdriver – Two point • Phillips head screwdriver – Long blade two point • Flat blade screwdriver – 3mm • Long nose pliers • Side cutters...
Page 29: Disassembling/Assembling The Housing
Disassembling/ Assembling the Housing Disassembly Step 1 – Using a Phillips head screwdriver Step 2 – Using both hands lift the front (two point) remove the screws in panel up & slide it out from the top the panel housing the cell cord panel, keep sliding until the top of assembly & remove the panel then the chlorinator comes free & the remove the screw connecting the housing is able to be flipped open. two chlorinator halves. Assembly Step 1 – Place the top of the chlorinator Step 2 – Push the bottom of the front panel flush with the top panel. into place; panel is correctly placed when the screw connecting the two chlorinator halves can be placed through its connection & tightened. Reconnect front panel screws with a Phillips head screwdriver (two point).
Page 30: Replacing The Cell Cord Assembly
Replacing the Cell Cord Assembly Disassembly Step 1 – After opening front panel of the Step 2 – Remove the appropriate cable ties chlorinator use a Phillips head with side cutters. Take special care screwdriver (two point) to remove not to cut or damage the wiring the holding plate allowing the cell Note position of cable ties for cord assembly to be more easily easier reassembly manoeuvred. Step 3 – Remove the screws holding the Step 4 – With a soldering iron & solder protective covering on the PCB sucker or solder wick remove the using a Phillips head screw driver wires for the cell cables & gas (one point). This will expose the cell sensor. When the metal has cooled cable connections. remove the cell cords.
Page 31 Assembly 1. BLACK 2. BLACK 3. DARK BLUE Step 1 – With a soldering iron & unleaded solder reattach the cell cables & gas sensor cable to the PCB. ESC 16 – 24 110V & 220V: The order for soldering the cell cables back onto the PCB from left to right is 1) black, 2) black, 3) dark blue. The gas sensor is the dark blue cable which should be soldered onto the position on the PCB marked Gas. 1. BLACK 2. LIGHT BLUE & BLACK 3. DARK BLUE ESC 36 – 48 220V: The order for soldering the cell cables back onto the PCB from left to right is: 1) black cell cable, 2) light blue transformer cable & black cell cable in the same slot, 3) dark blue cell cable which goes in the slot marked Gas. Step 2 – Place cell cord assembly into Step 3 – Replace any cable ties that were...
Page 32: Replacing The Bottom Panel
Replacing the Bottom Panel IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing power lead. Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the appropriate cable ties Step 2 – Remove the nut holding down the with side cutters. Take special care green Earth lead using an 8mm not to cut or damage the wiring. spanner. Note position of cable ties for easier reassembly. Step 3 – Remove the black & white cables Step 4 – Remove the screws on the coming from the power cord cable holding plate using a Phillips head & connecting to the terminal strip...
Page 33 Step 5 – Remove the bottom panel by using a Phillips head screwdriver to remove SCREWS the 4 screws holding it in place. Assembly Step 1 – Feed the power cord through Step 2 – Reattach the green power cord the slot in the bottom panel & Earth lead, use an 8mm spanner to replace the holding plate onto the tighten nut. power cord using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point). SCREWS BLACK WHITE Step 3 – Reconnect the black cable to the Step 4 – Tighten the four screws on the left & the white cable to the right of bottom panel to hold it in place the terminal strip using a flat blade using a Phillips head screwdriver screwdriver (3mm) & replace any (two point). cable ties that were removed.
Page 34: Replacing The Door
Replacing the Door Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding the Step 2 – Remove the sanitiser output knob cover on the PCB with a Phillips which will allow you to move the head screwdriver (one point). PCB to the side. May need to use two flat blade screwdrivers to lever the knob off if it is fastened too tight to remove by hand. If using screwdrivers be careful not to damage the control panel. Step 3 – Manoeuvre the spring so that it is Step 4 – From the front of the chlorinator able to be unhooked, may need to unhook holding clips & remove use long nose pliers to enable this. door. This is best done by doing the right hand side first.
Page 35 Assembly HOLDING CLIPS Step 1 – Attach door to holding clips on side of chlorinator. Step 2 – Reattach spring to clip located on inside of chlorinator. Step 3 – When PCB is in place the sanitiser Step 4 – Replace the protective covering output holder will be visible on the PCB using a Phillips head poking through the front panelling. screwdriver (one point). Reconnect sanitiser output knob to its holder ensuring it is able to be adjusted to both minimum & maximum settings.
Page 36 Replacing the Transformer – ESC 16 110V IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Disassembly BLUE Step 1 – Remove all applicable cable ties Step 2 – Remove the blue wire connecting with a pair of side cutters. Take the transformer to the terminal special care not to cut or damage strip using a flat blade screwdriver the wiring. (3mm). Note position of cable ties for easier reassembly. Step 3 – Open the terminal box using a Step 4 – Remove the screws holding the...
Page 37 Step 5 – Remove the cable clamp holding Step 6 – With a soldering iron & solder down transformer cables using sucker or solder wick remove the 3 a Phillips head screwdriver (two transformer wires. The transformer point). wires are the red, white & orange wires on the top left corner of the PCB. When the metal has cooled remove the transformer wires. Step 7 – Remove the nut on the top of the transformer with an 8mm spanner then lift off the black heat dispersion disk which when removed allows for the transformer to be lifted out of the chlorinator. When removing heat dispersion disk also remove the flat washer & spring washer located beneath the nut. Assembly Step 1 – Place transformer over the locating Step 2 – Place heat dispersion disk over the screw. transformer with the shiny metallic side face up. Place flat washer with the spring washer on top of it in place over the locating screw, tighten the transformer nut using an 8mm spanner.
Page 38 1. RED 2. WHITE 3. ORANGE Step 3 – After feeding the transformer wires Step 4 – Tighten cable clamp using a Phillips through the clear tubing use a head screwdriver (two point). soldering iron with unleaded solder to attach the wires to the PCB. The order for connecting the wires from the left of the PCB is 1) red, 2) white, 3) orange. BLUE BROWN Step 5 – Replace brown transformer wire Step 6 – Replace the blue transformer wire from the primary side of the into its slot on the terminal strip transformer to the fuse housing using a flat blade screwdriver terminal using a pair of long nose (3mm), the blue wire goes in the pliers, the brown transformer top right slot of the terminal strip. wire slots onto the lower terminal Replace any cable ties that were on the fuse housing. Close the removed. terminal box using a Phillips head screwdriver (one point).
Page 39: Replacing The Transformer
Replacing the Transformer – ESC 16 220V & ESC 24 110V & 220V IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding the Step 2 – Remove all applicable cable ties protective cover on the PCB with with a pair of side cutters. Take a Phillips head screwdriver (one special care not to cut or damage point). the wiring. Note position of cable ties for easier reassembly.
Page 40 Step 5 – Remove the locating screws Step 6 – Mark the wire connections on the connecting the transformer to PRIMARY side of the transformer the chlorinator. Remove the front to allow for easy reconnection. two first using a Phillips head Remove the 2 wires with a flat screwdriver (two point) then blade screwdriver (3mm) & remove using a long blade Phillips head the transformer. screwdriver remove the rear screw. Assembly BROWN BLUE Step 1 – Replace previously marked wires Step 2 – Place transformer in correct back into correct locations on location, replace the rear screw PRIMARY side of transformer with first using a long blade Phillips a flat blade screwdriver (3mm). The head screwdriver then the front blue wire connects to the rear of two screws using a Phillips head the transformer & the brown wire screwdriver (two point). connects to the front.
Page 41 Step 3 – Feed the secondary transformer wires through the clear tubing then 1. RED using the wire clamp, fasten the wires back onto the chlorinator 2. WHITE using a Phillips head screwdriver 3. RED (two point). Step 4 – Replace transformer wires on the PCB using a soldering iron with unleaded solder. The order for replacing the transformer wires back onto the PCB from left to right is 1) red, 2) white, 3) red. Step 5 – Replace any cable ties that were removed then replace the protective covering on the PCB with a Phillips head screwdriver (one point).
Page 42 Replacing the Transformer – ESC 36 - 48 220V IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Disassembly BLUE BROWN Step 1 – Remove the screws connecting the Step 2 – Remove the clear tubing covering transformers PRIMARY wires to the blue wire & using a soldering the terminal strip with a flat blade iron & a solder sucker disconnect screwdriver (3mm). the blue & brown wires connecting the transformer & the PCB. Step 3 – Using a soldering iron & a Step 4 – Remove the screws holding the solder sucker remove the wires transformer in place using a Phillips connecting the transformer to the...
Page 43 Assembly BLUE BROWN Step 1 – Replace the screws holding the Step 2 – Solder the blue transformer wire transformer in place using a Phillips to the brown PCB wire which head screwdriver (two point). connects the transformer to the PCB & replace the clear covering. Alternatively use crimping pliers & a crimp connector to fasten the wires together. BROWN WHITE WHITE BLUE BLACK GREEN Step 3 – Using a soldering iron reconnect Step 4 – Connect the transformer wires to the secondary transformer wires the PRIMARY terminal strip with to their respective position on a flat blade screwdriver (3mm) & the Triacs with the PCB wires. replace any cable ties that were Connections on the lower Triac are removed. The brown wire should the white transformer wire on the be fastened to the left side of the right terminal with the black PCB terminal strip with the light blue wire on the same terminal. The top wire belonging on the right of the...
Page 44 Replacing the Triacs – ESC 36 - 48 220V Disassembly Step 1 – Using a soldering iron & a Step 2 – Remove the screws connecting solder sucker remove the wires the Triacs to the chlorinator using connected to the Triacs. Mark the a Phillips head screwdriver (two positioning of the wires to assist in point) & remove the Triacs. reconnection. Assembly 1. BLUE/SOLDER BRIDGE 4. SOLDER BRIDGE 2. WHITE 5. YELLOW 3. WHITE, WITH 6. WHITE, WITH BLACK PCB GREEN PCB Step 2 – Using a soldering iron reconnect...
Page 45: Replacing The Pcb
Replacing the PCB Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding the Step 2 – Remove the sanitiser output knob protective cover on the PCB with which will allow you to move the a Phillips head screwdriver (one PCB to the side. May need to use point). two flat blade screwdrivers to lever the knob off if it is fastened too tight to remove by hand. If using screwdrivers be careful not to damage the control panel. Step 3 – With a soldering iron & solder Step 4 – On ESC 36 - 48 it’s also necessary sucker or solder wick remove all to remove the Triac plug. the wires for the cell cables, gas sensor & transformer. Assembly Step 1 – On ESC 36 – 48 reattach the Triac plug to the PCB.
Page 46 1. RED 2. WHITE 3. RED 4. BLACK 5. BLACK 6. BLUE Esc 16 220V – 24 110V & 220V: Connections from left to right on the PCB are as follows, first the three transformer cables, 1) red, 2) white 3) red. The cell cables are in the next three slots positioned 4) black, 5) black 6) blue. The blue cell cable goes to the slot marked Gas. 1. BROWN 2. BLACK 3. LIGHT BLUE & BLACK CELL 4. DARK BLUE Esc 36 – 48 220V: Connections from left to right on the PCB in the 6 slots are as follows: blank slot, 1) brown transformer wire, blank slot, 2) black cell cable, 3) light blue transformer wire & black...
Page 47: Replacing The Fuse Housing
PCB back on using a Phillips head poking through the front panelling. screwdriver (one point). Reconnect sanitiser output knob to its holder ensuring it is able to be adjusted to both minimum & maximum settings. Replacing the Fuse Housing Note that ESC 16 – 24 110V has only one fuse whereas all 220V models have 2 fuses. Disassembly Step 1 – Open the terminal box using a Step 2 – Using long nose pliers remove Phillips head screwdriver (one the clips from the fuse housing point). terminals.
Page 48 Step 3 – Using a pair of long nose pliers Step 4 – Remove the fuse housing. undo the nut holding the fuse housing in place. Assembly Step 1 – Replace the fuse housing. Step 2 – Replace the nut that holds the fuse housing in place & tighten using long nose pliers. 4. DARK BROWN 3. BROWN 2. LIGHT BLUE 1. DARK BLUE Step 3 – Being careful not to bend the terminals on the fuse housing put the clips back in place. Use long nose pliers to slide the clips onto the terminals. All 220V models: From the bottom of the chlorinator the correct positioning of the wires on the 2 fuse housings is as follows: 1) dark blue wire from the power switch, 2) light blue wire from the transformer, 3) brown wire from the transformer, 4) dark brown wire from the power switch.
Page 49: Replacing The Fuse
All 110V models: The correct positioning Step 4 – Replace the covering on the of the wires to the fuse housing has the terminal box using a Phillips head brown wire from the primary (left) side of the screwdriver (one point). transformer connected to the bottom terminal & the brown wire from the top right terminal on the power switch connected to the top fuse terminal. Replacing the Fuse Disassembly Step 1 – Push down on the fuse & twist to Step 2 – Remove the fuse from its holder. the left. Assembly Step 1 – Place fuse back in its holding. Step 2 – Place fuse into fuse housing & pushing gently down twist to the right to lock in place.
Page 50: Replacing The Hanging Bracket
Replacing the Hanging Bracket Disassembly Step 1 – Remove screws holding the hanging bracket in place with a Phillips head screwdriver (two point) & remove the hanging bracket. Assembly Step 1 – Place hanging bracket in position over screw holes & replace screws using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point).
Page 51: Replacing The Top Panel
Replacing the Top Panel Disassembly Step 1 – Pry the tabs covering the screws Step 2 – Remove the screws holding down on the top panel off. These tabs the top panel using a Phillips head are not reusable & will need to screwdriver (one point). be replaced after removal (Part number M1500GRY). Assembly Step 1 – Replace the screws holding down the top panel using a Phillips head screwdriver (one point) & press tabs back into place, (Part number M1500GRY).
Page 52: Troubleshooting Guides
Troubleshooting Guides...
Page 57: Maintenance Guide - Controller
Maintenance Guide – Controller A1. ECO-matic ESC & ESR A Salt Water Pool System has 3 potential sources to cause failure: • The control box • The cell • The quality of the pool water or the incorrect installation of the unit. Diagnosis of a potential fault by phone is important as the problem may come from the control box, from the cell or from the environment (quality of the water or installation). Correct diagnosis by phone helps to avoid call out fee’s and unnecessary dismantling of units. This troubleshooting guide is to assist in assessing a fault by phone by demonstrating the correct questions to ask the pool trader or the pool owner. ESC Control Panel Red dot Winter ON when mode unit switch to awaiting operate at 85% production Digital display of production Knob for...
Page 58 A.1.1 The indicated production is lower than 100 – There are 1 or 2 red alarms. One red alarm (or the two) is ON and the indication of production is lower than 100 (between 15 & 100) and the production control is set at maximum output. Note: If the unit is set in Winter mode, the number 85 will be displayed (instead of 100). There are 4 questions to ask: A.1.1.1: Is the salt content of the water high enough? The minimum salt content required is 3g/l, at the beginning of the new swimming season it is advised that salt content be set to approximately 4 g/l at the beginning of the season.
Page 59 A.1.2 :There is no production displayed on indicator A.1.2.1: Check the electrical connection. The unit should have the LED indicators ON when the pump is running & should have LED lights OFF when pump is not running. A.1.2.2: Check that the Flow indicator (small red dot on LED panel) is not ON? If this dot is ON, it indicates that the unit detects a presence of gas in the cell housing. Check that when the unit is in operation there is no bubble of air in the top part of the cell housing. Note: The housing must be installed horizontal, with the inlet on the side of the threaded plug of the cell. (The direction of flow is indicated with an arrow on the cell housing). If there is gas in the housing the blue connector of the cell detects this gas and the unit will not operate. This bubble has to be eliminated: make sure that the unit is installed correctly at the inlet & outlet to prevent the bubble forming in the housing.
Page 60 A.1.3.5: Is the size of the unit adapted to the swimming pool? ESC, ESCpH and ESR units are designed for private pools not exceeding 200 m3 (meters cubed). For semi-public or public pools, larger units such as units in the range of SC Max are more appropriate. A.1.4 :There is no chlorine in the water In salt chlorination applications, the amount of chlorine in the water is often very limited (from 0.5 ppm to 1 ppm) so the owner may not feel that the unit is working correctly. We have to first ensure that the unit is working; the following questions will enable this to be established: A.1.4.1: Does the display of the unit show 100 when the unit operates? Make sure that the chlorine production control is at maximum, if the display is showing 100, (between 95 and 105), the problem does not come from the unit as it is functioning correctly. If this is the case the water chemistry is likely to be incorrect, refer to section A.1.3.2 If the display does not show 100, (one or two red alarms ON), refer to section A.1.1.
Page 61: Maintenance Guide - Cell
Maintenance Guide – Cell B- Checking of cells EcoMatic ESC & ESR & EcoSALT BMSC The cell is the most important part of the chlorinator and also the most expensive part. For the EcoMatic ESC & ESR cells, the manufacturing date of the cell is engraved on the transparent plastic head. For the EcoSALT BMSC cells, this date is engraved on the transparent body, near the connectors: First letter: Month of Manufacturing: A: January, B: February, C: March, D: April, E: May, F: June, G: July, H: August, I: September, J: October, K: November, L: December Second letter: Year of Manufacturing: H: 2009, I: 2008, J: 2007, K: 2006, L: 2005, M: 2004, N: 2003, O: 2002, P: 2001. e.g.: DN means a manufacturing date of April 2003 The cell can be tested either by connection with a chlorinator or by connecting it to the MONARCH universal Tester. Meter to test ESC, ESCPH & BMSC Cells Meter to test ESR, Output Aquachlor...
Page 62 B.1. The production of the cell is not sufficient There are two possible reasons for a cell having low production: The wearing of the cell and the scaling of the cell. Wearing Normally, an ESC or ESR cell should last 5 years under normal conditions with correct maintenance & operating in swimming seasons ranging from April to October. The cell will incur more significant wear & tear if used for a higher frequency for an extended period of time (e.g.; cell sanitizing swimming pools for medical use). Below is an example of a cell which has had its central plate worn out by heavy use. Worn down center plate It is recommended that the unit be turned off when the water temperature falls lower than 15°C. Scaling of the cell Scaling of the cell can occur when the pH of the water is too high, although the units ESC & BMSC are self cleaning, it is still possible to find the cell full of scales. In case of scaling of an ESC or BMSC cell, the pH of the water of the pool has to be adjusted lower (between 7 and 7.4). Clean the cell with a mixture of 2/3 of water and 1/3 hydrochloric acid. The owner will then have to maintain the pH of the water at its normal value (between 7 and 7.4) by adding some “pH minus” when necessary. B2. The cell is full of scale (white deposit on plates) Refer to above chapter (Scaling of cell) which is a cause of scale production that can make the unit inefficient. This is not common for self cleaning units such as the EcoMatic ESC, ESCpH and also EcoSALT but is more common for units without self cleaning system such as the...
Page 63 B3. The cell has got a leak around the connectors. The leak can often be found at the gland of the cell connectors. To check for leaks install the unit on the pool system & check the gland when the filtration pump is in operation. B.4 The cell housing is cracked This cracking can typically occur when the pressure sharply increases in the cell housing. This high pressure can occur only if the salt chlorinator is in operation with the isolating valves closed. This fault is the consequence of a mistake made by the pool owner having mistakenly closed the valves and having forgotten to open these valves when the chlorinator was started. Important: In order to avoid this type of problem, it is strongly advised that a Non return valve be installed in the pipe work between the cell &...
Page 64 NOTES...
Page 66 Note: Product specifications may change without notice. Drawings are indicative only, product appearance may change slightly. ® Davey is a registered trade mark of Davey Water Products Pty Ltd. © Davey Water Products Pty Ltd 2009. Davey Water Products Pty Ltd Interstate Offices Davey Water Products Sydney •...
Page 67 ECM-45-931 Cell Cables, All ESC & ESCpH Models M2679 ECM-45-924 Cell Cables, All ESR Models M2686 ECM-451-1053 Screw-Gas Detector M1103 ECM-451-1017 PCB, ESC 16 M111717USA ECM-451-1020 PCB, ESC 24 M111724USA ECM-451-1018 PCB, ESC 36 M1117A36USA ECM-451-1019 PCB, ESC 48 M1117A48USA...
Page 68 ESC SERIES SALT CHLORINATOR...
Page 69 EcoSalt BMSC Chlorinator SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS...
Page 70 WARNING: ALL ELECTRICAL WORK TO BE PERFORMED BY SUITABLY QUALIFIED ELECTRICAL PERSONNEL. Always disconnect from electrical supply BEFORE any work is carried out. Handle components carefully to avoid personal injury. Tools Required • 8mm spanner • Phillips head screwdriver – One point • Phillips head screwdriver – Two point • Flat blade screwdriver – 3mm • Long nose pliers • Side cutters • Soldering iron...
Page 71: Disassembling/Assembling The Unit
Disassembling/ Assembling the Unit Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screw in the front Step 2 – Using both hands lift the top half panel using a Phillips head approximately 15mm up from the screwdriver (two point) then lift the chlorinator & slide out until the top front panel off. half is free then flip open the front cover. Assembly Step 1 – Place the top half of the chlorinator Step 2 – When closing unit note the locating flush with the top panel lug has to be inside the chlorinator otherwise it will not close. With the Note: Before closing unit ensure locating lug on the interior of the that wiring loom which connects chlorinator move the top half of to the PCB is correctly placed the chlorinator into place over the behind the internal panel &...
Page 72: Replacing The Cell Cord Assembly
Replacing the Cell Cord Assembly Disassembly Step 1 – After opening the front panel of Step 2 – Remove the screws holding the the chlorinator use a Phillips head protective covering on the PCB screwdriver (two point) to remove using a Phillips head screw driver the holding plate allowing the cell (one point). cord assembly to be more easily manoeuvred. Step 3 – Remove the appropriate cable ties Step 4 – With a soldering iron & solder with side cutters. Take special care sucker or solder wick remove the not to cut or damage the wiring. 3 wires for the cell cables & gas sensor, note these are the 2 black Note position of cable ties for wires & 1 blue wire located to the reassembly. right of the three transformer wires. When the metal has cooled remove the cell cords.
Page 73 Assembly 1. BLACK 2. BLUE 3. BLACK Step 1 – With a soldering iron & unleaded solder reattach the cell cables & gas sensor cable to the PCB. These are ordered 1) black, 2) blue 3) black on the PCB with the blue wire representing the Gas sensor which is marked on the PCB with the word Gas. Step 2 – Replace any cable ties that Step 3 – Place cell cord assembly into were removed then replace the appropriate position & secure lock protective covering on the PCB with in place with the holding plate. a Phillips head screw driver (one Secure the holding plate using point). a Phillips head screwdriver (two point).
Page 74: Replacing The Bottom Panel
Replacing the Bottom Panel IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing power lead. Disassembly SCREWS Step 1 – Remove the 4 screws on the Step 2 – Remove the black & white power bottom panel using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point). point terminal wires from the terminal strip using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm). Before removing the wires ensure that they are connected to the power lead. Step 3 – Remove the nut holding down the Step 4 – Remove the appropriate cable ties green Earth lead from the power with side cutters. Take special care point terminal with a spanner not to cut or damage the wiring (8mm).
Page 75 Assembly GREEN Step 1 – Feed the power cord through Step 2 – Reattach green Earth lead using a the bottom panel & place power spanner (8mm) to tighten nut. cord lead in correct position on the backing plate. Replace the holding plate using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point). Step 3 – Reconnect power point terminal wires to their correct position on the terminal strip using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm) & replacer any BLACK cable ties that were removed. WHITE BMSC 13/20/26 110V & BMSC 13 220V: The white wire goes in the first slot on the top left of the terminal strip with the black wire next to it on the right hand side. BMSC 20 – 26 220V: The black wire goes in the first slot of the terminal strip on the bottom left with the white wire on the right hand side.
Page 76: Replacing The Door
SCREWS Step 4 – Place the bottom panel in its correct position & secure the 4 screws using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point). Replacing the Door Disassembly Assembly Step 1 – With one holding the chlorinator in Step 1 – First attach the door to the right place use your free hand to lift up hand lug then with the door on the left side of the chlorinator completely upright push down door. Have the door fully upright on the left side to clip the door in when lifting up the door. When you place over the right lug. Check door have disconnected the left hand opens & closes completely to check side from its knob the right side correct installation. will pull away. Use minimal force to avoid breaking the door.
Page 77: Replacing The Transformer
Replacing the Transformer – BMSC 13 220V & BMSC 13/20/26 110V IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the four transformer wires Step 2 – Remove the screws holding the from the terminal strip using a flat protective covering on the PCB blade screwdriver (3mm). using a Phillips head screw driver (one point). Step 3 – Remove the cable clamp holding Step 4 – With a soldering iron & solder down transformer cables using sucker or solder wick remove the 3 a Phillips head screwdriver (two transformer wires. The transformer...
Page 78 Step 5 – Remove the nut on the top of the transformer with an 8mm spanner then lift off the black heat dispersion disk which when removed allows for the transformer to be lifted out of the chlorinator. When removing heat dispersion disk also remove the spring washer & flat washer located beneath the nut. Assembly Step 1 – Place transformer over the locating Step 2 – Place heat dispersion disk over screw. the transformer with the shiny metallic side face up. Place flat washer & spring washer in place over the locating screw; tighten the transformer nut using an 8mm spanner. Step 3 – After feeding the transformer wires through the clear tubing use a soldering iron with unleaded solder to attach the wires to the PCB. The order for connecting the wires from the left of the PCB is 1) orange, 2) white, 3) pink. 1. ORANGE 2. WHITE 3. PINK...
Page 79 1. BROWN 2. LIGHT BLUE 3. PURPLE 4. BLACK Step 4 – Replace the transformer wires to their respective positions on the terminal strip using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm). BMSC 13 220V: From left to right on the terminal strip the transformer wires are colored 1) brown, 2) light blue, 3) purple, 4) gray.
Page 80 Replacing the Transformer – BMSC 20-26 220V IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Disassembly BLUE BROWN Step 1 – Remove all applicable cable ties Step 2 – Remove the blue & brown with a pair of side cutters. Take transformer wires connected to special care not to cut or damage the fuses using a pair of long nose the wiring. pliers. Note position of cable ties for easier reassembly. Step 3 – Remove the screws holding the Step 4 – Remove the cable clamp holding protective covering on the PCB...
Page 81 Step 5 – With a soldering iron & solder Step 6 – Remove the nut on the top of sucker or solder wick remove the 3 the transformer with an 8mm transformer wires. The transformer spanner then lift off the black wires are the red, black & white heat dispersion disk which when wires on the top left corner of the removed allows for the transformer PCB. When the metal has cooled to be lifted out of the chlorinator. remove the transformer wires. When removing heat dispersion Note the placement of the wires disk also remove the flat washer on the PCB so as to enable easier located beneath the nut. reassembly. Assembly Step 1 – Place transformer over the locating Step 2 – Place heat dispersion disk over the screw. transformer with the shiny metallic side face up. Place flat washer in place over the locating screw, tighten the transformer nut using an 8mm spanner.
Page 82 1. RED 2. BLACK 3. WHITE BROWN BLUE Step 3 – After feeding the transformer wires Step 4 – Being careful not to bend the through the clear tubing use a terminals on the fuse housing put soldering iron with unleaded solder the blue & brown clips connecting to attach the wires to the PCB. the transformer to the fuse housing The order for connecting the wires back in place. Use long nose pliers from the left of the PCB is 1) red, 2) to slide the clips onto the terminal. black 3) white. The blue wire connects to the lower terminal of the fuse at the bottom of the chlorinator. The brown wire connects to the lower terminal of the top fuse. Step 5 – Tighten cable clamp using a Step 6 – Replace the protective covering Phillips head screwdriver (two on the PCB using a Phillips head point) & replace any cable ties that screw driver (one point). were removed.
Page 83: Replacing The Pcb
Replacing the PCB Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding the Step 2 – Remove the sanitiser output knob protective covering on the PCB which will allow you to move the using a Phillips head screw driver PCB to the side. May need to use (one point). two flat blade screwdrivers to lever the knob off if it is fastened too tight to remove by hand. If using screwdrivers be careful not to damage the control panel. Step 3 – With a soldering iron & solder sucker or solder wick remove all the cables connected to the PCB.
Page 84 Assembly Step 1 – Use a soldering iron with unleaded solder to reattach the transformer & cell cable wires to the PCB. BMSC 13/20/26 110V & BMSC 13 220V: The order for reattaching the wires to the PCB from left to right are 1) orange, 2) white, 3) pink which are the transformer wires, the cell cable wires are soldered onto the next three slots, the order is 4) black, 5) blue, 6) black. The blue cable represents the Gas 1. ORANGE 4. BLACK sensor which is marked on the PCB 2. WHITE 5. BLUE with the word Gas. 3. PINK 6. BLACK BMSC 20 – 26 220V: From left to right the order for the cables to be soldered are 1) red, 2) black & 3) white which are the transformer wires, the cell cable wires are...
Page 85: Replacing The Fuse Housing
Replacing the Fuse Housing Note that BMSC 13/20/26 110V has only one fuse whereas all 220V models have 2 fuses. Disassembly Step 1 – Using long nose pliers remove all Step 2 – Using a pair of long nose pliers the clips from the fuse housing undo the nut holding the fuse terminals. Mark the positioning of housing in place. the wires to assist with reassembly. Assembly Step 3 – Remove the fuse housing. Step 1 – Replace the fuse housing.
Page 86 Step 2 – Replace the nut that holds the fuse housing in place & tighten using long nose pliers. Step 3 – Being careful not to bend the terminals on the fuse housing put the clips back in place. Use long nose pliers to slide the clips onto the terminals. BMSC 13 220V: The correct positioning of the wires on the fuse housing terminals when looking from the bottom of the chlorinator is: 1) white wire from the final slot 1. WHITE 3. BLACK of the terminal strip, 2) white wire 2. WHITE 4. BLACK from the top right terminal on the power switch 3) black wire from the third slot on the terminal strip 4) black wire from the power switches top left terminal. BMSC 20 – 26 220V: The correct positioning of the wires on the fuse housing terminals when looking from the bottom of the chlorinator is: 1) blue wire from the transformer 2) white wire from the terminal strip...
Page 87: Replacing The Fuse
Replacing the Fuse Disassembly Step 1 – Push down on the fuse & twist to Step 2 – Remove the fuse from its holder. the left then lift up to remove fuse from the fuse housing. Assembly Step 1 – Place fuse back in its holder. Step 2 – Place fuse into fuse housing & pushing gently down twist to the right to lock in place.
Page 88: Replacing The Top Panel
Replacing the Top Panel Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding down the top panel using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point). Assembly Step 1 – Replace the screws holding down the top panel using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point).
Page 89: Troubleshooting Guides
Trouble Shooting Guides...
Page 93: Maintenance Guide - Cell
Maintenance Guide – Cell B- Checking of cells EcoMatic ESC & ESR & EcoSALT BMSC The cell is the most important part of the chlorinator and also the most expensive part. For the EcoMatic ESC & ESR cells, the manufacturing date of the cell is engraved on the transparent plastic head. For the EcoSALT BMSC cells, this date is engraved on the transparent body, near the connectors: First letter: Month of Manufacturing: A: January, B: February, C: March, D: April, E: May, F: June, G: July, H: August, I: September, J: October, K: November, L: December Second letter: Year of Manufacturing: H: 2009, I: 2008, J: 2007, K: 2006, L: 2005, M: 2004, N: 2003, O: 2002, P: 2001. e.g.: DN means a manufacturing date of April 2003 The cell can be tested either by connection with a chlorinator or by connecting it to the MONARCH universal Tester. Meter to test ESC, ESCPH & BMSC Cells Meter to test ESR, Output Aquachlor...
Page 94 B.1. The production of the cell is not sufficient There are two possible reasons for a cell having low production: The wearing of the cell and the scaling of the cell. Wearing Normally, an ESC or ESR cell should last 5 years under normal conditions with correct maintenance & operating in swimming seasons ranging from April to October. The cell will incur more significant wear & tear if used for a higher frequency for an extended period of time (e.g.; cell sanitizing swimming pools for medical use). Below is an example of a cell which has had its central plate worn out by heavy use. Worn down center plate It is recommended that the unit be turned off when the water temperature falls lower than 15°C. Scaling of the cell Scaling of the cell can occur when the pH of the water is too high, although the units ESC & BMSC are self cleaning, it is still possible to find the cell full of scales. In case of scaling of an ESC or BMSC cell, the pH of the water of the pool has to be adjusted lower (between 7 and 7.4). Clean the cell with a mixture of 2/3 of water and 1/3 hydrochloric acid. The owner will then have to maintain the pH of the water at its normal value (between 7 and 7.4) by adding some “pH minus” when necessary. B2. The cell is full of scale (white deposit on plates) Refer to above chapter (Scaling of cell) which is a cause of scale production that can make the unit inefficient. This is not common for self cleaning units such as the EcoMatic ESC, ESCpH and also EcoSALT but is more common for units without self cleaning system such as the...
Page 95 B3. The cell has got a leak around the connectors. The leak can often be found at the gland of the cell connectors. To check for leaks install the unit on the pool system & check the gland when the filtration pump is in operation. B.4 The cell housing is cracked This cracking can typically occur when the pressure sharply increases in the cell housing. This high pressure can occur only if the salt chlorinator is in operation with the isolating valves closed. This fault is the consequence of a mistake made by the pool owner having mistakenly closed the valves and having forgotten to open these valves when the chlorinator was started. Important: In order to avoid this type of problem, it is strongly advised that a Non return valve be installed in the pipe work between the cell &...
Page 96 Note: Product specifications may change without notice. Drawings are indicative only, product appearance may change slightly. ® Davey is a registered trade mark of Davey Water Products Pty Ltd. © Davey Water Products Pty Ltd 2009. Davey Water Products Pty Ltd Interstate Offices Davey Water Products Sydney •...
Page 97 EcoSpa ® ORP Controlled Sanitising System SERVICING INSTRUCTIONS...
Page 98 WARNING: ALL ELECTRICAL WORK TO BE PERFORMED BY SUITABLY QUALIFIED ELECTRICAL PERSONNEL. Always disconnect from electrical supply BEFORE any work is carried out. Handle components carefully to avoid personal injury. Tools Required • 8mm spanner • Phillips head screwdriver – One point • Phillips head screwdriver – Two point • Flat blade screwdriver – 3mm • Long nose pliers • Side cutters Contents...
Page 99: Disassembling/Assembling The Housing
Disassembling/ Assembling the Housing Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screw in the front Step 2 – By hand lift the top half up from the panel using a Phillips head chlorinator & slide it out until the top screwdriver (two point). half is free. Assembly Step 1 – Place the top half of the chlorinator Step 2 – Close the unit & using a Phillips flush with the top panel. head screwdriver (two point) tighten the screw holding the chlorinator Note: Before closing unit ensure that halves together. wiring loom which connects to the PCB is located inside the unit &...
Page 100: Replacing The Transformer
Replacing the Transformer IMPORTANT NOTE: Power MUST be switched off before removing transformer. Note: Wiring assembly differs between 110V & 220V Ecospa where indicated. Disassembly Step 1 – Remove transformer wires from Step 2 – Remove the screws holding the the terminal strip using a flat blade protective cover on the PCB with screwdriver (3mm). Mark the wires a Phillips head screwdriver (one to enable easier connection on point). reassembly. Step 3 – Remove the ORP control knob Step 4 – Remove the wires connecting the which will allow you to move the transformer to the PCB using a flat...
Page 101 Step 5 – Remove the appropriate cable ties Step 6 – Remove the nut on the top of with a pair of side cutters. Take the transformer with an 8mm special care not to cut or damage spanner then lift off the black the wiring. heat dispersion disk which when removed allows for the transformer Note position of cable ties for to be lifted out of the chlorinator. easier reassembly. When removing heat dispersion disk also remove both the spring & flat washers. Assembly Step 1 – Place transformer over the locating Step 2 – Place heat dispersion disk over the screw. transformer with the shiny metallic side face up. Place flat washer in place over the locating screw with spring washer on top, tighten the transformer nut using an 8mm spanner.
Page 102 1. BLACK 2. YELLOW 3. YELLOW 4. RED 5. RED 6. WHITE Step 3 – Place previously marked transformer wires back in place on the PCB terminals, reconnect them using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm). From the top of the PCB the order that the wires need to be replaced are 1) black, 2) yellow, 3) yellow, 4) red, 5) red, 6) white. Note: The dark blue & brown wires should not be removed when removing the transformer. Step 4 – When PCB is in place the ORP Step 5 – Replace the protective covering control holder will be visible on the PCB using a Phillips head poking through the front panelling.
Page 103 1. BROWN 2. DARK BLUE 3. BROWN 4. DARK BLUE Step 6 – 220V EcoSPA: Reconnect previously marked transformer wires back to the terminal strip using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm) & replace any cable ties that were removed. The correct order for placing the transformer wires from left to right into the terminal strip for the 220V EcoSPA is as follows, 1) brown, 2) dark blue, 3) brown, 4) dark blue. The first two slots on the left of the transformer wires should be filled by the brown & light blue wires from the fuse housings. 1. BROWN 2. BROWN 3. DARK BLUE 4. DARK BLUE 110V EcoSPA: Reconnect previously marked transformer wires back to the terminal strip using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm) & replace any cable ties that were removed. When placing the transformer wires in place on the 110V EcoSPA the correct order from left to right on the terminal strip is 1) brown, 2) brown, 3) dark blue, 4) dark blue. The first two slots on the left of the transformer wires should be filled by the brown & light blue wires from the power switch.
Page 104: Replacing The Pcb
Replacing the PCB Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the screws holding the Step 2 – Remove the ORP control knob protective cover on the PCB with which will allow you to move the a Phillips head screwdriver (one PCB to the side. May need to use point). two flat blade screwdrivers to lever the knob off if it is fastened too tight to remove by hand. If using screwdrivers be careful not to damage the control panel. Step 3 – Remove the wires connecting Step 4 – Remove the plugs from the ORP the various components of the sensor & the Digital display that are chlorinator to the PCB using a flat connected to the PCB. blade screwdriver (3mm). Mark the wires to enable easier connection on reassembly.
Page 105 Assembly Step 1 – Reconnect the plugs from the ORP sensor & the Digital display to the PCB. 1. BLACK 2. YELLOW 3. YELLOW 4. DARK BLUE 5. DARK BLUE 6. BROWN 7. RED 8. RED 9. WHITE Step 2 – Place previously marked wires back in place on the PCB terminals, reconnect them using a flat blade screwdriver (3mm). From the top of the PCB the order that the wires need to be replaced are 1) black, 2) yellow, 3) yellow, 4) dark blue, 5) dark blue, 6) brown, 7) red, 8) red, 9) white.
Page 106 Step 3 – When PCB is in place the ORP Step 4 – Replace the protective covering control holder will be visible on the PCB using a Phillips head poking through the front panelling. screwdriver (one point). Reconnect ORP control knob to its holder ensuring it is able to be adjusted to both minimum & maximum settings.
Page 107: Replacing The Fuse Housing
Replacing the Fuse Housing Note: 220V EcoSPA is fitted with 2 fuses, 110V EcoSPA has 1 fuse only. Disassembly Step 1 – Remove the cable ties holding the Step 2 – Remove the terminal clips from the fuse wires in place with a pair of fuse housing. side cutters. Take special care not to cut or damage the wiring. Note position of cable ties for easier reassembly. Step 3 – Using a pair of long nose pliers Step 4 – Remove the fuse housing.
Page 108 Assembly Step 1 – Place the fuse housing back into its Step 2 – Replace the nut that holds the fuse location on the control panel. housing in place & tighten using long nose pliers. Step 3 – Being careful not to bend the terminals on the fuse housing put the clips to the fuse housing back in place. Use long nose pliers to slide the clips onto the terminal. 1. LIGHT BLUE 2. DARK BLUE 3. BROWN 4. DARK BROWN EcoSPA 220V: The correct positioning for the wires on the left fuse housing are 1) lower terminal has the light blue wire from the last slot on the terminal strip, 2) top terminal has the dark blue wire from the power switch. The wires on the right fuse housing are positioned 3) lower terminal has the brown wire from the 3rd slot on the terminal strip, 4) top terminal has the dark brown wire from the power switch. EcoSPA 110V: The top terminal on the fuse has the brown wire connected to the bottom left terminal on the power switch. The bottom fuse terminal wire which is also brown connects into the third slot from the left on the terminal strip; this is to the right of the white wire from the power cord.
Page 109 Step 4 – Place cable ties into position holding the fuse wires in place.
Page 110: Replacing The Fuse
Replacing the Fuse Disassembly Step 1 – Push down on the fuse & twist to Step 2 – Remove the fuse from its holder. the left then lift up to remove fuse from the fuse housing. Assembly Step 1 – Place fuse back in its holder. Step 2 – Place fuse into fuse housing & pushing gently down twist to the right to lock in place.
Page 111: Replacing The Top Panel
Replacing the Top Panel Disassembly Step 1 – Pry the tabs covering the screws Step 2 – Remove the screws holding down on the top panel off. These tabs the top panel using a Phillips head are not reusable & will need to screwdriver (two point). be replaced after removal (Part number M1500GRY). Assembly Step 1 – Replace the screws holding down the top panel using a Phillips head screwdriver (two point) & press tabs back into place, (Part number M1500GRY).
Page 112: Troubleshooting Guides
Trouble Shooting Guides...
Page 117 This page intentionally blank.
Page 118 NOTES...
Page 119 NOTES...
Page 120 Note: Product specifications may change without notice. Drawings are indicative only, product appearance may change slightly. ® Davey is a registered trade mark of Davey Water Products Pty Ltd. © Davey Water Products Pty Ltd 2009. Davey Water Products Pty Ltd Interstate Offices Davey Water Products Sydney •...
Page 121 Salt Water Chlorinators Salt Water Chlorinators SPARE PARTS GUIDE SPARE PARTS GUIDE...
Page 122 PART DESCRIPTION USED IN PART No. All ESR, ESC, SWITCH ESCpH and M2004 BMSC Models SWITCH EcoSpa M2000 All ESC, ESCpH TRANSPARENT DOOR M1550 and ESR models ALL BMSC TRANSPARENT DOOR M1561 MODELS TRANSPARENT DOOR ECOSPA M1501 FUSE HOLDER COMPLETE WITH ESC/ESCpH 16 &...
Page 123 PART DESCRIPTION USED IN PART No. ORP CONTROL KNOB EcoSpa M1527 TRANSFORMER 220V ESR 70- 160 220V M1701 TRANSFORMER 220V ESR 200 220V M1702 TRANSFORMER 220V ESR 240 - 300 220V M1705 TRANSFORMER 110V BMSC 13 110V M1739 TRANSFORMER 220V BMSC 13 220V M1739 TRANSFORMER 110V...
Page 124 M1788 TRANSFORMER ECOSPA M1789 ESR 110 M1114110USA ESR 160 M1114160USA ESR 200 M1114200USA ESR 240 M1112240USA ESR 300 M1112300USA ESCpH 16 M1127PH16USA ESCpH 24 M1127PH24USA ESCpH 36 M1127PH36USA ESC 16 M111716USA ESC 24 M111724USA ESC 36 M1117A36USA ESC 48 M1117A48USA...
Page 125 PART DESCRIPTION USED IN PART No. BMSC 13 M112013USA BMSC 20 M112020USA BMSC 26 M112026USA ECOSPA M1119PCBA CELL CABLES ALL BMSC M2678 CELL CABLES ALL ESR M2686 CELL CABLES All ESC & ESCpH M2679 CELL CABLE PLUg EcoSpa 32619 THYRISTOR ESR 70 - 200 M1106 THYRISTOR...
Page 126 PART DESCRIPTION USED IN PART No. PRESSURE SWITCH FOR FLOW ECOSPA M4500 SENSOR ORP Probe ECOSPA M5002WB pH Probe All ESCpH Models M5001WB all ESCpH & BNC Socket M5113 EcoSpa Models REPLACEMENT CELL ESR 110 M0741EX REPLACEMENT CELL ESR 160 M0753EX REPLACEMENT CELL ESR 200...
Page 127 PART DESCRIPTION USED IN PART No. ALL ESC, ESCpH CELL HOUSINg M1249 AND ESR MODELS ALL BMSC BMSC CELL HOUSINg BLANK M0684 MODELS ALL ESC, ESCpH BLANKINg CAP M1219 AND ESR MODELS ALL ESC, ESCpH O'RINg for CELL HEAD M1217 AND ESR MODELS ALL BMSC CELL UNION KIT...
Page 128 Note: Product specifications may change without notice. Drawings are indicative only, product appearance may change slightly. ® Davey is a registered trade mark of Davey Water Products Pty Ltd. © Davey Water Products Pty Ltd 2009. Davey Water Products Pty Ltd Interstate Offices Davey Water Products Sydney •...

ECO-MATIC ESC 16 Operating Instructions Manual

Installation and

Eco-Matic Esc Chlorinator

Ecosalt Bmsc Chlorinator

Ecospa® Orp Controlled Sanitising System

Quick Links

Chapters

Troubleshooting

Need help?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for ECO-MATIC ESC 16

Summary of Contents for ECO-MATIC ESC 16

Table of Contents