Related Manuals for LDC Racing Sailboats RS200
Summary of Contents for LDC Racing Sailboats RS200
- Page 1 RS200 OWNER’S MANUAL LDC Racing Sailboats, Trafalgar Close, Chandlers Ford, Eastleigh SO53 4BW, GBR Tel. +44 (0)23 8027 4500 Fax. +44 (0)23 8027 4800 www.ldcracingsailboats.co.uk...
- Page 2 78Kg 172lbs Important Note The RS200 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. It is a light weight racing dinghy and should be treated with care. In order to get the most enjoyment from your boat and maintain it in top condition, please read this manual carefully.
- Page 3 Most people should not find it necessary to deviate substantialy from these positions. We have deliberately left the spreaders adjustable in the RS200 to enhance its potential as a racing boat and broaden the range of competitive sailors. Extreme settings, especially a reduction in the distance from the shrouds to the back of the mast, may lead to mast failure in strong winds.
-
Page 4: Stepping The Mast
Stepping the mast Before stepping the mast Check the surroundings for electrical power lines! On no account attempt to step the mast near electrical power lines or if there are any lines between you and the sailing water! Check, all sheaves and pulleys rotate freely Check the shrouds, forestay and halyards for damage or chafe, the spreaders for alignment and that the spinnaker halyard and Tweeker line move easily. - Page 5 handed, however, it is possible to step the mast with the shrouds already attached. Warning:- The forestay on the RS 200 is intended solely to support the mast when ashore without sails hoisted. Do not attempt to sail the boat without a fully hoisted and tensioned jib.
- Page 6 When you attach the spinnaker (see:- Rigging the spinnaker), this line must be fed through the spinnaker sock to the chute mouth and tied to the downhaul patch on the spinnaker. A sail batten or stiff wire will help with this on the first occasion.
-
Page 7: Rigging The Spinnaker
Rigging the spinnaker If conditions allow, it is simplest to rig the spinnaker with it partly hoisted and whilst the jib is up. Identify the three corners of the sail, the tack is close to the sailmakers mark and should be attached to the tack line which is permanently fixed to the end of the Sprit, tie this on with a bowline. - Page 8 at the luff and securely tied into the sail. It is preferable, initially at least, to tie the battens in too tightly rather than too loosely. This helps to prevent the formation of wrinkles emanating from the battens in use. Other than this the sail is ready to hoist.
- Page 9 Attach the kicking strap purchase to the eye on the boom ensuring it runs freely and is clear of twists. Reave the mainsheet. Tie a figure of eight knot in one end of the mainsheet then pass the other end through the fairlead on top of the swivelling mainsheet cleat, through the ratchet block in the opposite direction to the indicating arrow and up to the central block on the boom.
- Page 10 Attaching the boom As the boom can be readily attached whilst the mainsail is hoisted, you will find most owners do not attach the boom until they are just ready to launch and soon release the clew on coming ashore. You will find this makes the sail a lot more manageable and removes the potential danger from an uncontrolled boom.
- Page 11 Sailing the RS 200 Your initial perception of the RS 200 will depend to a large extent on your previous dinghy experience. If you are used to small light weight dinghies then the 200 will hold few surprises. However, if you are relatively inexperienced and used to the more intrinsically stable kinds of dinghies found in sailing schools you may find her lively feel a little disconcerting at first.
- Page 12 The following are helpful generalisations to guide the relatively inexperienced. Further advise and information is available in subsequent sections to help you get the best racing performance from your RS200. The jib Once hoisted and a firm but not ridiculous tension is applied to the rig the only adjustment necessary is to position the jib fairleads.
- Page 13 eased or in strong winds. Up until the wind strength when you are effectively overpowered all of the time use no cunningham tension at all, basically sail on the mainsheet constantly adjusting the te nsion to keep the upper part of the mainsail correctly sheeted.
- Page 14 taught). Ensure the downhaul line is free to follow the spinnaker out of the chute ( you are not standing on it). Unless something becomes fouled the sprit should have precedence over the halyard as it has a 2:1 purchase advantage. Sheet in using the appropriate sheet.
- Page 15 To change from reaching to running mode - ease the sheet to unload the spinnaker, then release a good armful (1 metre - 3ft.) of halyard and retract the sprit by pulling on the check line. Locate the knot on the “V” notch and finally take up any slack in the halyard.
- Page 16 is tensioned. Check this by pulling on the Tweeker line and ensuring the internal plastic ring can travel right to the inboard end of the sprit. Check line - simply exits from the inboard end of the sprit and outer tube, although it is also used to attach the end of the take up elastic it is not meant to move so ensure it is knotted both ways.
- Page 17 Care and Maintenance By Richard Woof – the builder There are four key areas of care: 1. Keep your dinghy well drained and ventilated 2. Wash with fresh water (internally and externally) on a regular basis 3. Have damage repaired promptly. 4.
- Page 18 3. Damage Hull damage falls into three categories: a) SERIOUS e.g. large hole, split, crack or worse. Don't be too distressed! Get the remains back to your RS dealer, most problems can be repaired by the builder. b) MEDIUM e.g. small hole or split, gel crazing. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be continued, as long as leaking can be prevented by drying off the area and applying a strong adhesive tape.
- Page 19 The speed of cure depends on temperature - on a warm day, the repair will be workable in 1 -2 hours, if cooler, it may have to be left overnight. The shaping and finishing is done firstly with a file or fine abrasive 180 - 240 grit and then rubbing down with wet or dry abrasive 400 grade, then 600 grade, then 800 and finally 1200 grade.
- Page 20 Sail Care Guide By Hyde Sails Good racing sails today are expensive items, yet it is surprising how many people are prepared to neglect or mistreat them. The rules for correct sail care are easy and simple to implement. 1. The jib and mainsail should be stored dry, out of direct sunlight when not in use (Ultra-Violet light damages sailcloth), and rolled: * Ensure there are no folds in the cloth as you roll the sail.
- Page 21 Very tight, but not so tight that the mainsail is prevented from twisting and opening at the head. Your RS200 has been set up at the factory to the following rig dimensions which were taken from the winning boat at the 1996 National Championships:...
- Page 22 The outhaul and the cunningham should remain eased. The RS200 is particularly responsive to being steered and pumped through waves to induce the surf / plane.
-
Page 23: Rs Class Association
RS CLASS ASSOCIATION www.rs-association.com The RS Class Association is highly active and you really should join. The RS Racing Circuits are the envy of the dinghy world, with great competition and a fantastic and friendly social life. The RS Association also organises Training Events throughout the year. - Page 24 LDC Racing Sailboats Trafalgar Close, Chandlers’ Ford Eastleigh, Hants SO53 4BW England EC DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY TO DIRECTIVE 94/25/CE I declare that the craft described as: RS200 Bearing the Hull Identification Number: G B L D C 2 1 Conforms to EU Recreational Craft directive 94/25/EC Annex 1 –...
- Page 25 Overall Length 4.00m Builder Name: LDC Racing Sailboats, England Date: ____________________________ Signed: Name: ______________________ Signature: ___________________...
Need help?
Do you have a question about the RS200 and is the answer not in the manual?
Questions and answers