Advertisement
Quick Links
The TBM P-40 was designed to be the best flying P-40 possible. Several minor changes were made to greatly
improve the low speed and high speed flight of the plane. We hope that you enjoy the wide speed range
capabilities, scale looks, and quick assembly.
The TBM P-40 has these advanced features:
-
Cowl screws are completely hidden.
-
Wing is 3 pieces for very easy assembly and transportation
-
Wing panels held in place using a machine gun to completely hide the screw
-
Canopy uses a hatch latch to conceal the air valve, pressure gauge, fuel dot and switches.
-
Optional spinner is CF, painted in Olive Drab or Red.
-
Optional muffler for DA-85 is available.
-
Ailerons and Flaps are properly hinged at the factory.
IMPORTANT ASPECTS TO KEEP IN MIND
-
The plane is not tail heavy like most warbirds. We moved the wing back and lengthened the nose, so the
batteries don't have to be strapped to the engine along with 5 lbs of lead. Mount the batteries last, and
put them where necessary for CG reasons. We put our batteries as shown in the photos as follow.
-
The plane does not required lots of downthrust like most warbirds. The airfoil is much more
symmetrical, so it does not generate lots of asymmetric lift. We have no downthrust in the engine.
TBM
P-40 ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Advertisement
Related Manuals for TBM P-40
Summary of Contents for TBM P-40
- Page 1 P-40 ASSEMBLY MANUAL The TBM P-40 was designed to be the best flying P-40 possible. Several minor changes were made to greatly improve the low speed and high speed flight of the plane. We hope that you enjoy the wide speed range capabilities, scale looks, and quick assembly.
- Page 2 The plane is very light compared to other warbirds of this size. It is as much as 10 lbs lighter, so take offs and landings are much easier. Don’t fly it in with flaps at 30 mph. With flaps, it is stable at almost walking speed.
-
Page 3: Assembly Sequence
We recommend a package of servo wire holders Landing gear and tailwheel. TBM has these specially made for the P-40. Fuel overflow bulkhead type fitting Batteries – one for ignition and two for Rx are recommended. Three 2600 mah batteries will offer 10 flights. - Page 4 2) Rudder (NOTE – both the rudder and tailwheel cables are crossed) a. Install rudder horn using Hysol b. Glue rudder in place using Hysol c. Install ball links in outer holes (3” spread). d. Install pull-pull cable. Use the centered ball link, not the offset ball link (look at the way that the brass ball is machined and you will see a difference).
- Page 5 3) Engine a. Install the Sullivan #562 ball links to the choke and throttle arm of the DA-85 engine. b. Use the DA-85 template to drill 4 ¼” mounting holes c. Use provided bolts, blind nuts, washers and locknuts to install engine. Blind nuts alone are not strong enough to hold gas engines of any size.
- Page 6 Mount all these items inside the fuselage as far forward as possible. Mount the switch in the “dash board” of the fuselage (not in the canopy) as shown. It is next to the fuel dot in the following photo. g. Use TBM spiral wrap to protect the ignition wires passing through the fuselage.
- Page 7 In the photo above note the TBM overflow fitting installed. It is a brass bulkhead fitting in the right side of the photo. This is for the overflow of the fuel when filling the plane. In this position, it is hidden from view by the cowl, but still accessible.
- Page 8 It’s a crazy looking muffler, but it is the best we could do. We wanted to keep the cowl as scale as possible, and this muffler shape requires no cutting into the cowl. This muffler does not reduce rpm much, and it is very loud. If you require it to be quieter, we have closed the ends of the exhaust stacks by bending them inwards as is done on Sullivan mufflers.
- Page 9 5) Throttle and Choke servos a. Install the #562 ball link to the Sullivan #584 push rod b. Install two Hitec HS 225 servos as shown with arms pointed down. c. Connect throttle and choke linkage. Make stand offs to hold the linkages using scrap wood if necessary.
- Page 10 Note in the photo above that there is plenty of room to access the screws which hold on the cowl and the screws which hold on the wing. Keep this in mind through the building process. It is important to have easy access to these screws.
- Page 11 ahead of time. You can land gear up or gear down. If you have a choice of landing on grass or on pavement, then decide before you take off which you will land on in case of landing gear failure. My preference is landing gear up on grass if the engine fails and the landing is going to be ugly no matter what.
- Page 12 This photo shows the aileron servo extension held in place with a blue wire keeper. Note the aileron horn. The machine gun is shown. This is opposite of the production plane. The wing spar is glued into the wing tips on the production model.
- Page 13 12) Hatch a. You may want to add a pilot, and install the included instrument panel. Be sure that the hatch latch functions properly. 13) Batteries a. Now install the batteries to make the plane balance properly. The CG is located just in front of the wing spar.
- Page 14 spins better than any aerobatic plane. It spins like a top and doesn’t lose altitude. Just try it a little higher up than I did because it takes just a little longer to come out than you think. 15) Flying a.