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this metal tube will now allow you to move the wheel away from the chain
housing and then away from the bike. You might need to tilt the bike at an angle
to make this easier. As you move the wheel away, the lid holding the brake pads
will fall off but it will still be connected to the back brake rod. This rod connects
the back brakes to the back brake foot lever. Make sure that none of the black
rubber plugs on the chain housing fall off. This job is a lot easier with two people.
Then replace the inner tube as described before. Putting the
back wheel back on is the reverse of the above procedure. It
involves a bit of back work. Fit the brake lid holding the brakes
back into the wheel. Move the wheel back into position against
the chain housing. Line up the six rubber plugs on the chain
housing with the six holes on the wheel. This is the tricky bit.
Then fit the small metal tube back into position. Slide the axle
shaft back through the tube and wheel. Position the brake bar
back onto the brake lid (don't forget the small pin) and screw the
#22 axle nut back on.
Adjusting the Chain
It is normal over the course of time for the chain to stretch. If you forget to
drip some oil onto the chain every month or so then this will happen more quickly.
The teeth on the drive sprocket and the sprocket on the back wheel will also wear
down over time. Spotting worn down teeth is easy. Old teeth are sharp and thin
whereas new ones are thick triangles with flattened ends.
To tighten the chain you first need to loosen the back wheel by undoing the
two bolts on the axle shaft. First loosen (but not remove) the #22 axle nut which is
on the right-hand side but sometimes on the left-hand side of the axle. Then loosen
(but not remove) the larger lock nut on the right-hand side
with your exhaust pipe removing tool. Then kick the
wheel to loosen it up.
©Digby Greenhalgh 2000
Minsk Repair Manual
TURN CLOCKWISE
TO TIGHTEN CHAIN
thread
#13 nuts
LOOSEN FIRST
#22 axle
nut
axle shaft
31
brake lid
larger
lock nut
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