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Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
GENERAL PLANKING INSTRUCTIONS (applicable to all kits)
Newcomers to this fascinating hobby, or those new to the construction of a Mantua Group
period ship model, sometimes have questions when they start to work such as: "How big
an obstacle is the planking? Is it possible to have something additional in the way of
equipment or instructions to help in this most important part? Are there any photographs
or diagrams that may help?" To assist you, we have produced this short instruction sheet
in an attempt to lessen any problems you may encounter.
PLANKING OR THE APPLICATION OF STRIPS
First, a short note on the background. Each vessel was originally clad with large wooden
boards positioned longitudinally or diagonally to the line of the hull, either with one plank
overlapping the next (clinker-built), or plank one adjacent to the next (carvel-built), and
nailed onto the ship's frames. This covering, in addition to being necessary for buoyancy
(after caulking and sealing the joints) also gave considerable strength to the whole vessel.
In the case of our own models, because of the nature of the materials used, the planking
will be accomplished using not short planks, but with full strips wherever possible, and
doubled up in most cases, as they were in the original vessels. This technique is made
possible through the flexibility and quality of the materials provided.
To achieve a high quality finish to the planking, we suggest the following system that we
consider is most effective, and which is demonstrated in the diagrams on the last page.
The planking operation begins on plan number 1 of each of our model's instructions. The
position of the first plank is shown on a profile of the skeleton structure after assembly.
This reference point normally corresponds to the highest point of the two or three central
frames and coincides with the lowest point of the curve formed by the extreme tops of the
frames themselves. Where required, use a strip bender to curve the plank so that it fits the
shape of the hull.
The first strip applied must be perfectly parallel to the line of the keel and should be fitted
at the bow, the other end projecting beyond the length of the hull as in Fig.1 below. If the
ship is to be double-planked, the initial planks may be glued and lightly pinned to the
frames. The pins are to be removed once the assembly has properly set. Please note that
where the upper sections of the frames are to be removed later, the planks should be
pinned only at these places, i.e. no glue applied.
Proceed in the same manner from the top to bottom, fitting each plank snugly against the
other, checking that they can be positioned easily without having to unduly force or twist
the plank longitudinally. Be sure to cover each side of the hull alternately, working
three to four planks at a time. This avoids twisting the hull.
After a number of these 'easy' planks have been fitted, a certain amount of difficulty will be
encountered in placing subsequent strips, as the planks will now want to overlap in some
places. You will now have arrived at the curve or sheer, of the vessel. Planking now
requires a different procedure. All the planks must adhere to, and lie flat against, the
frames for their entire width without curling, twisting or forming strange and unwanted
'ears'. We need to overlap the new plank on the previously positioned plank, allowing the
strips to guide us in determining at what point the overlapping is to begin at each end.
Position this overlapping plank without gluing onto the central two or three frames of the
hull (see Fig.2), holding the ends down with your fingertips, mark both ends where they
overlap, with a pencil. Cut along the lines drawn, using a sharp craft knife (see Fig.3).
Reposition the cut strip on the hull, fitting it snugly against the preceding plank, making
slight adjustments to the angled cut as necessary, to ensure an exact fit.
©
Mantua Model Group
August 2001
Page 11 of 14
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