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[5E3 assembly
manual]
WARNING! This amp operates at voltages that may exceed 400V! Use extreme caution
when building and testing. If you are not comfortable working with high voltages, refer
assembly and testing to a qualified technician.
Neither the manufacturer nor the seller of this kit assume any responsibility for damages or
injuries incurred during assembly, testing, repair, or usage of this device.
Note: There are some minor variations between this 5E3 kit and the original Fender 5E3. Most of
these changes improve the noise and hum characteristics, and do not alter the tone or the sound in
any way. We have provided a schematic diagram at the end of this document. You can find the
original 5E3 schematic on many websites, if you wish to compare the two.
Recommended tools:
Screwdrivers -- Standard and Philips
Adjustable wrench (standard pliers will suffice)
Needle Nose Pliers
Diagonal Cutters
Wire Strippers
Soldering Iron -- 15 to 40 watt or temperature controlled solder station
High Power Soldering Iron or Gun – 100 watts or more
Solder
Multimeter -- AC/DC rated for at least 450V DC, resistance
Power Drill or Dremel rotary tool with grinder attachment, or a small to medium file
Mableaudio Company limited
Web: www.mableaudio.com
Tel:0086-755-83996326 fax:0086-755-83996326
Contact: Ms Mable
mable@mableaudio.com
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Summary of Contents for Mableaudio 5E3
- Page 1 Note: There are some minor variations between this 5E3 kit and the original Fender 5E3. Most of these changes improve the noise and hum characteristics, and do not alter the tone or the sound in any way.
- Page 2 Eyelet Board and parts Verify that you have all the necessary parts shown:...
- Page 3 Board Assembly Carefully install all parts in the positions shown in the bottom image below. Remember that electrolytic capacitors (22uf/450v and 22uf/25v) are polarized and need to be placed in the direction shown. Eyelet board (shown): Pull wires through the eyelets and solder. Cut excess wire from the other side of the board.
- Page 4 Circuit Board Wiring Tip: It may be easier to work with wire ends if you “tin” them first. Strip insulation off the end as needed. Then, heat the wire with your soldering iron and touch solder to the wire just enough so the solder flows into the strands. Don’t let the solder blob or glob onto the wire.
- Page 5 Chassis Level assembly Tip: Wear white cloth gloves when handling the chassis to avoid getting fingerprints on the chrome surface. Check to see that all necessary parts are present.
- Page 6 Mount the two 9-pin mini sockets in the orientation shown, with the gap between Pin 1 and Pin 9 towards the top of the chassis. Mount four ¼ in. jacks to the front of the chassis at this time as well. Next, twist two green wires together as shown to make the filament wires.
- Page 7 Install two ¼ in. jacks into the next two holes in the rear of the chassis. Connect a black wire from Pin 1 on Jack B to Pins 1 and 2 on Jack A. Connect a green wire from Pin 3 on Jack A to Pin 3 on Jack B, Install a potentiometer into the first position (Pot 1) as shown.
- Page 8 Find the other two potentiometers. On each of them, bend Pin 1 back and solder it to the metal casing as shown. Tip: To get solder to stick to a solid metal surface such as the back of a potentiometer, it helps to “rough up” the surface first. You can do this with a power drill or Dremel tool with a grinding attachment.
- Page 9 Install two rubber grommets for the output transformer wires to pass through Install the output transformer with the green and black leads towards the output jacks. Run the wires through the grommets, and pull them towards the rear of the chassis to keep them out of the way of the circuit board. Note: If you wish, you may hold off on installing the output transformer until later.
- Page 11 First Preamp tube (12AY7): Wire as follows: Point 1 to Pin 8, Point 2 to Pin 2, Point 3 to Pin 7, Point 4 to Pin 1, and Point 5 to Pin 6. Cut off excess wire as needed. Second preamp tube (12AX7): Connect Point 6 to Pin 3, Point 7 to Pin 2, Point 8 to Pin 1, Point 9 to Pin 6, Point 10 to Pin 8, and Point 11 to Pin 7.
- Page 12 Overall view of the preamp wiring: Front panel wiring: To solder the ground lead to the chassis, it helps to remove some of the chrome surface using a drill or Dremel tool with a grinder attachment. You can also scrape it off with a screwdriver, a knife, or the edge of a file. Heat the spot with a high power (100+ watt) soldering gun until solder flows and sticks.
- Page 13 Input Jack Wiring Jack A: Connect Point 1 to Pin 1. Solder a 1 Meg Ohm resistor between Pin 1 and Pin 2. Connect Pins 2 and 3 together. Jack B: Connect Point 2 to Pin 1. Connect Pin 3 to Pin 2 on Jack A. Leave Pin 2 empty.
- Page 14 Jack C: Connect Point 4 to Pin 1. Solder a 1 Meg Ohm resistor between Pin 1 and Pin 2. Connect Pins 2 and 3 together. Jack D: Connect Point 5 to Pin 1. Connect Pin 3 to Pin 2 on Jack C. Leave Pin 2 empty.
- Page 15 Solder the remaining three bare ground wires to the backs of the three potentiometers: Tip: To get solder to stick to a solid metal surface such as the back of a potentiometer, it helps to “rough up” the surface first. You can do this with a power drill or Dremel tool with a grinding attachment, or a file. Overall view of the front panel wiring:...
- Page 16 If you have not done so yet, mount the output transformer to the chassis. Make sure that the black and green wires of the secondary tap are closest to the output jacks. Run the wires through the rubber grommets. Install the three octal tube sockets and tube retainers as shown. Make sure the sockets are turned so that the key notch on the center hole is towards the open bottom of the chassis as shown.
- Page 17 Twist the black and green secondary wires from the output transformer. Connect the black wire to Pin 2 and the green wire to Pin 3 on Jack A.
- Page 18 Output tube wiring Connect the twisted green filament wires from the 12AX7 tube to pins 2 and 7 on the first 6V6 tube socket...
- Page 19 Connect the twisted green filament wires from the first 6V6 tube socket to pins 2 and 7 on the second 6V6 tube socket. Twist together another pair of green wires long enough to go from the second 6V6 socket to the pilot light hole on the front panel.
- Page 20 Connect Point 1 on the circuit board to Pin 1 on the first 6V6 tube socket. Connect a red wire from Pin 1 on the first 6V6 tube socket to the Pin 1 on the second 6V6 tube socket. Solder a 470 Ohm 1W resistor between Pin 1 and Pin 4 on both 6V6 tube sockets.
- Page 21 Connect the Blue wire from the primary of the OT to Pin 3 on the second 6V6 tube socket. Connect the Brown wire from the OT to Pin 3 on the first 6V6 tube socket. Twist the red wire from the Output Transformer with the red wire from Point 3 on the circuit board together and connect them to Pin 8 on the rectifier (5AR4) tube socket.
- Page 22 Connect Point 4 on the circuit board to Pin 6 on the first 6V6 tube socket. Solder a 1.5K ohm resistor between Pins 5 and 6 on the first 6V6 tube socket. Connect Point 5 on the circuit board to Pin 6 on the second 6V6 tube socket. Solder a 1.5K ohm resistor between Pins 5 and 6 on the second 6V6 tube socket.
- Page 23 An overall view of the chassis Mount the power transformer as shown below.
- Page 24 Connect the Green/Yellow wire from Power Transformer to the Green wire from the circuit board. See below:...
- Page 25 Twist the two yellow wires (5V 3A tap) from the Power Transformer and connect them to Pin 2 and Pin 8 on the rectifier tube socket. See red arrow below:...
- Page 26 Note: The following two steps are to be followed if you wish to use a 5AR4 rectifier (included) with this amp. If you wish to use a 5Y3 rectifier, twist the two red wires from the power transformer (PT) and connect them directly to Pins 4 and 6 on the rectifier tube socket.
- Page 27 Mount the SPST (2-pin) Standby switch, fuse holder, DPST (4-pin) Power switch and the pilot light to the front panel. From this point on, most of our connections will be made with push-on spade connectors. To install these connectors, do the following: 1.
- Page 28 Connect the black primary wire from the Power transformer to F2 on the fuse holder. Connect the white primary wire (230V) to P2 on the power switch. See the two pictures below:...
- Page 29 Connect the Red/Yellow wire from Power transformer to S2 on the Standby switch. See below:...
- Page 30 Make a short black wire and connect F1 on the fuse holder to P1 on the power switch.
- Page 31 Connect the two green wires from the power transformer to the two terminals on the pilot light. Connect the two green filament wires from the second 6V6 to the pilot light as well.
- Page 32 Power cord wiring Cut the IEC connector off the end of the end of the power cord. Strip off outer insulation and install connectors as shown:...
- Page 33 Run the power cord through the rear of the chassis and fasten in place with the plastic strain relief clip. Make sure there is enough wire inside to reach the power switch. You may need to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the clip together to get it through the hole.
- Page 34 Make a short black wire and connect S1 on the Standby switch to the chassis ground. Connect the Yellow/Green wire from the Power Cord to the same chassis ground point.
- Page 36 Congratulations! You have just finished wiring the chassis. Compare your work to the pictures below and double-check all of your wiring. Pat yourself on the back, have a cup of tea (or the beverage of your choice), and take a break. We’ll have your new amp up and jamming in no time.
- Page 37 Initial testing: Install the knobs and fuse, but don’t install the tubes at this time. Put the standby switch in standby mode, the power switch off, and both volume knobs all the way down. Now, with the amp sitting on your workbench wiring side up, plug in the power cord and turn the power switch on. The pilot light should turn on at this point.
- Page 38 To standby or not to standby: In a cathode biased amp with a tube rectifier like the 5E3, it is not necessary to wait for the tubes to warm up before taking it off standby. In fact, you can just leave it off standby unless you need to take a break from playing, so the tubes are warm and ready to play immediately.
- Page 39 5E3 Schematic...