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AcroPro
You're in for a
real treat. Like the
X250 and the Cutie
before it, the Acro-
Pro is fun to build
and it flies great.
With the suggested
power system it's
fully aerobatic and
will even do vertical
and horizontal eights.
It's just a blast to
hotdog around the
sky and with its fully
steerable
tailwheel,
it's just as much fun
on the ground. This
is an airplane that
you're going to fly
for a long, long time.
No kidding!
Please read
this!
We know you've
been told a million
times to read the i n -
structions, but this
time
you
really
should. The AcroPro
employs brand new
construction techniques that you probably haven't run
into before. Nothing about building the AcroPro is diffi-
cult, but much of it will be new to you. If you do mess
up, give us a call. We promise not to holler at you. But,
why not do it right the first time and follow the instruc-
tions? You'll save a lot of time if you do.
That having been said, we know the more experi-
enced builders are going to ignore us, so let's make a
deal. Most of the time, reading the heading and look-
Instruction Manual
tm
very fast and powerful MPI MX50HP ball bearing
servos. These servos will work with any brand of radio
and we strongly recommend them. If you can't find them
locally, we always keep them in stock at SR. In fact, we
stock everything for the AcroPro from the covering mate-
rials to the tools that will make it easier and quicker to
build your AcroPro.
It's time to get going so grab your glue, turn t h e
page, and let's get building!
ing at the photo is
all you'll have to
do to figure out
what's going on. If
there's something
about a particular
step that's critical
or unusual, we'll
mark
that
with the exclama-
tion point symbol.
Anytime you see
it, please read the
text for that step.
We
thin, fast setting,
C A
g l u e
assembling all of
t h e
A c r o P r o
prototypes. If we
r e c o m m e n d
different glue for a
particular
we'll mention it in
the notes.
Just about
any radio sys tem
can be used. We've
specifically set up
the AcroPro for the
AcroPro
Instruction Manual, Page 1
tm
© 2002
step
used
i n
a
step,
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Summary of Contents for Acro Pro SR
- Page 1 If you can’t find them cult, but much of it will be new to you. If you do mess locally, we always keep them in stock at SR. In fact, we up, give us a call. We promise not to holler at you. But,...
- Page 2 AcroPro’s optional Power System. It consists of the Jeti Phasor 15/4 motor with the corresponding Jeti JES 30-3P speed control, a Graupner CAM 9x6 prop, and an SR 1300 Max or 1500 Max 7 cell battery pack. We have a special package price for AcroPro builders for a complete power system so check with us if you have any questions.
- Page 3 Midwest permanent, tungsten carbide, sanding blocks which come in fine, medium, and coarse grits and even include a brass cleaning brush. We stock them at SR if your hobby shop doesn’t have them. They’ll make building your AcroPro a lot easier and faster.
- Page 4 Chamfering the fuselage sides at the tail... Before you start work on the doublers, you’ll have to chamfer the rear inside edges of the fuselage sides so that when the fu- Left fuselage side selage sides are finally joined at the tail, the resulting fuselage width will be 1/8”.
- Page 5 Find the parts... The photo at the right illustrates the parts you’ll need for the next Formers F1, F2, and F3 steps so remove them from their sheets and give them a light sanding. Trial fit your servos in the servo mounting tray and make any neces- sary adjustments.
- Page 6 Chamfer the bottom forward edge of the firewall... If you look closely, you’ll see that the forward, bottom edge of the firewall needs to be sanded back at an angle because it overlaps the fuselage side. Use your sanding block at an angle and remove the small amount of overlapping material so that it won’t interfere with the bottom sheeting when it’s glued in place.
- Page 7 Second former... Check the fit of the second former and battery mounting plate. Second former and battery Again, use your sanding block to make sure you have a smooth fit pack mounting plate that isn’t snug or tight. Don’t glue anything! Third former...
- Page 8 Prepare the support plates... The edge of the three wing support plates will probably have Don’t try to sand this edge. Only remove protrusions! some small protrusions where the tabs were left to keep the parts from falling out of the plywood sheets. Take a few swipes with your sand- ing block on the edge closest to the holes.
- Page 9 Trial fit the left fuselage side... Following these instructions will assure a straight and true Left fuselage side fuselage without any twists. Don’t forget the Left motor mount! Dry!!! fit the left fuselage side. Before you do, insert the left motor mounting plates into the left fuselage side. Then, Weight starting at the nose, slip the firewall, battery pack support plate, sec- ond former, wing support plates, servo tray, and third former into...
- Page 10 Attach the left fuselage side... Carefully turn the fuselage over. Make sure all of the parts are still positioned properly and weight the fuselage down if necessary. Check the alignment at the tail again with the right angle guide and if everything looks good, go ahead and glue all of the parts into the left fuselage side.
- Page 11 Dry fit the gear plates... The next step is probably best done with slow CA glue or ali- Dry fit before gluing the phatic resin glue. But, before you glue anything, dry fit the two plates mounting plate in place in their recesses to see how they fit.
- Page 12 Joining the fuselage sides at the tail... If you’re lucky, the stiffness of your two fuselage sides will be Chances are that when you exactly the same and if you join them at the tail, they come together bring the two fuselage sides together, one will be longer centered.
- Page 13 Double check the centering... If not, adjust it and Turn the fuselage try again. When it’s over and lay it over Now, turn the fuselage over, right side up, and lay it over the top right, tack glue the the plans. The tail two sides together should be centered.
- Page 14 Glue the third plate in place... You’re almost done. Lay the top barbed plate in place and if eve- rything lines up, it should, glue it in place over the previous two tail Third tail wheel mounting plate wheel mounting plates. Finally, re-glue around the entire assembly including the joint at which the two balsa fuselage sides meet.
- Page 15 Taper the edges of the bulkheads... Because the fuselage tapers towards the rear, the rear edges of the bulkheads have to be trimmed slightly so that they make Trim lower rear edges of bulkheads where they meet the fuselage sides better contact with the fuselage sides.
- Page 16 Identify the front and rear of the center stringer... Trying to figure out which end of the center stringer goes to- wards the front and which end goes towards the rear is a little tougher. Lay the three stringers down so that they are flush with each other at one end and the center stringer is in the middle.
- Page 17 The bulkheads aren’t square to the stringers... Before you insert the first bulkhead into the stingers, notice The bulkhead is that it doesn’t fit into the stringers at a 90 degree angle. In- leaning rearward stead, it’s angled back some. The bulkhead will end up being perpendicular to the fuselage, but it’s not perpendicular to the stringers.
- Page 18 Glue the bulkheads to the stringers... Double check the fit between the bulkheads and the stringers. If everything looks right, glue the Are the bulkheads fully inserted into the notches? Are all the bulkheads into place tapers you sanded into the edges of the bulkheads facing to- wards the rear of the fuselage??? If they are and everything is sitting nice and flat on your building board, use thin CA glue to glue all of the bulkheads to the stringers.
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