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THE SCOOTDAWG
COMPLETE OWNER S
MANUAL
FOR GY6 SCOOTERS
This is the manual that should have come with
your scooter!
For Engines 139QMB and157QMJ
www.ScootDawg.com
©2005 ScootDawg.com

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  • Page 1 THE SCOOTDAWG COMPLETE OWNER S MANUAL FOR GY6 SCOOTERS This is the manual that should have come with your scooter! For Engines 139QMB and157QMJ www.ScootDawg.com ©2005 ScootDawg.com...
  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Introduction This manual is intended as a real world manual for all GY6 scooters. This is only a supplement to the manual provided by your dealer or manufacturer. Most of the manuals provided with Chinese scooters are very difficult to understand and most do not have the information you need to properly care for your scooter.
  • Page 3 Some owners of less expensive Chinese scooters have reported improperly bled brake lines out of the factory. The easiest and most effective way to do this is to purchase an inexpensive brake bleeding kit at an auto parts store. Follow the instructions with the kit. www.ScootDawg.com...
  • Page 4: Gauges And Controls

    Gauges and Controls With so many body styles available, the location of your controls may differ and you may have some not included here but this will give a good generic indication of the gauges and controls found on a scooter. Your controls function as illustrated.
  • Page 5 To accelerate, twist the throttle in a counterclockwise motion. When braking, both brake levers should be depressed with even pressure.
  • Page 6 You can read about the hard break-in method and make your own decision. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm The main rule you need to follow is to NOT maintain a constant engine speed for extended periods of time. www.ScootDawg.com...
  • Page 7: Changing The Oil

    Changing the Oil The oil should at a minimum be changed after the first 300km (180 miles) and every 1000km (600 miles) after that. It doesn t hurt to change it after the first 50 miles. New engines can produce small shavings in the first few miles that can be abrasive to the internal parts.
  • Page 8 Capacity is approximately 0.9 liter. Check the level using the dipstick. Do not screw the dipstick in while checking the level. Do not overfill. Replace filler cap. Check for leaks. Take a short ride and check the level and for leaks again. www.ScootDawg.com...
  • Page 9 How to Change Gear Oil Tools you will need 1. 10 mm wrench 2. Pistol grip oil can 3. 75w90 gear oil 110cc (3.7 oz.) 4. Measuring cup. Do the following while the scooter is warmed (not hot). Measure 110cc (3.7 oz) of gear oil into a measuring cup.
  • Page 10: Air Filter

    Air Filter The air filter on the GY6 scooters is usually found in one of two places. One is on the side next to the kick start. Some models have it located under the seat. Some of the newer models may have it located somewhere else but it should be easy to find.
  • Page 11: Spark Plug

    Spark Plug NGK C7HSA or NGK CR7HSA The CR7HSA has a resistor to keep radios from buzzing due to the magneto/coil's electrical interference. The spark plug can be found behind this hatch. The spark plug should be cleaned every time it is inspected with a small wire brush.
  • Page 12: Idle Adjustment

    Idle Speed Adjustment 150cc=1400rpm +/- 50cc=1900rpm +/- Engine idle speed should be adjusted to 1400 rpm for the 150cc and 1900 rpm for the 50cc. However, when the scooter is new, it may need to be adjusted a little higher until the engine breaks in to prevent dying at stop lights, etc. If you don t have a tachometer you can adjust by ear.
  • Page 13: Carburetor Tuning

    CARBURETOR TUNING It is rare that this procedure is needed, usually after major modifications to the engine or if you live in a very high altitude location. This procedure should be performed with the engine warmed. 1. Adjust idle to 1400 rpm for 150cc or 1800 rpm for the 50cc with idle screw. 2.
  • Page 14: Brakes

    Brakes Rear Drum Brakes If you have more than ¾ free play or feel the handle bottom out , you need to adjust your brake. Turn the adjusting nut clockwise for a tighter adjustment. Make sure that the concave side of the adjusting nut is seated securely on the pin. Adjust inward until free play is 3/8 to ½...
  • Page 15 Front (and Rear) Disc Brakes Locate the window to observe brake fluid level. Make sure master cylinder is level by placing the scooter on the center stand and centering the handlebars. If the fluid level is low, inspect the brake pads for excessive wear. If the pads are ok, you are probably leaking fluid.
  • Page 16: Caring For And Storing

    Caring for and Storing Your Scooter If you are going to store your scooter for extended periods, such as over winter months, it is important that you do a little preparation. Add a fuel stabilizer to your fuel such as Stabil . This will prevent your fuel from becoming unstable and causing damage to the internal parts of your fuel system.
  • Page 17: Maintenance Schedule

    Maintenance Schedule This schedule may not match that which came with your scooter. It is very close to most of them. If you have warranty issues, you should follow the recommended schedule that came with your scooter.
  • Page 18 Torque Settings for 50cc Scooter...
  • Page 19 Torque Settings 150cc Scooter...
  • Page 20: Torque Settings

    TORQUE SETTINGS 150CC...
  • Page 21: Valve Adjustment

    Valve Adjustment The valve gap on the 150cc scooters is 0.0019 inches on intake valve and 0.0024 inches on the exhaust valve. The following diagram has the valve clearance on the 50cc scooters.
  • Page 22: Body Panels

    Body Panels Body panels can be tricky to remove but there are a few tricks. The main thing is to be patient and smart. Don t force anything. The following series of photographs is removing the front panel to replace headlight bulbs. The first order of business is to locate the most likely screws that are securing the panel.
  • Page 23: Reading Spark Plugs

    Reading Spark Plugs The following information is directly from the NGK website. Normal Condition An engine's condition can be judged by the appearance of the spark plug's firing end. If the firing end of a spark plug is brown or light gray, the condition can be judged to be good and the spark plug is functioning optimally Dry and Wet Fouling Although there are many different cases, if the insulation resistance between the center electrode and the...
  • Page 24 Deposits The accumulation of deposits on the firing end is influenced by oil leakage, fuel quality and the engine's operating duration. Lead Fouling Lead fouling usually appears as yellowish brown deposits on the insulator nose. This can not be detected by a resistance tester at room temperature.
  • Page 25 Normal Life A worn spark plug not only wastes fuel but also strains the whole ignition system because the expanded gap (due to erosion) requires higher voltages. Normal rates of gap growth are as follows: Four Stroke Engines: 0.01~0.02 mm/1,000 km (0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles) Two Stroke Engines: 0.02~0.04 mm/1,000 km (0.000126~0.00252 inches/1,000 miles) Abnormal Erosion Abnormal electrode erosion is caused by the effects of corrosion, oxidation and reaction with lead - all...
  • Page 26 Melting Melting is caused by overheating. Mostly, the electrode surface is rather lustrous and uneven. The melting point of nickel alloy is 1,200~1,300°C (2,200~2,400°F). Lead Erosion Lead erosion is caused by lead compounds in the gasoline which react chemically with the material of the electrodes (nickel alloy) as high temperatures;...

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