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Problems and solutions
WARNING! Before removing black plastic
cap, be sure to turn off the electrical supply.
When the engine does not heat the water:
• Check that there are no air locks inside the
entr y pipe to the water heater's coil. If any,
unloosen escape valve (if mounted see plumb-
ing connection diagram, point 5) or heat ex-
changer's pipe fitting (marked with red rubber
washer see plumbing connection diagram,
point 4) to release any air.
• Check that temperature of the coolant inside
the water heater coil is over 50°C and that it
circulates properly.
• Check that hot water taps are watertight.
When electric heating element does not
heat water:
• Check the electric supply (that you are receiv-
ing power) and that the AC supply voltage
corresponds to that indicated on the electric
heating element.
• Check that the thermostat is working correctly
(that it switches on/off).
• Check whether the thermostat's high tempera-
ture cut out safety device has been inserted
(see electrical connection instructions above).
If the pin of the cut out safety device has been
released, restore contact by pushing the pin
back to its original position, which is a few
millimeters below the surface, with a pointed
instrument. If the water heater overheats
excessively and the cut out safety device is
activated again within only a few hours of
operation (temperature cut out = 120°C), check
the thermostat and electric heating element
and if faulty, substitute.
• With a tester check that the electric heating
element is not damaged. Remove electric
heating element, check whether there are any
calcium deposits, and if any, remove.
• Check that hot water taps are watertight.
If hot water comes out of the cold water
taps:
• Ensure that non-return valve is not obstructed
and that it does not permit hot water to return
to the accumulator tank.
• Control that water heater has been connected
correctly.
4
• Should water boil despite the high temperature
cut out safety device immediately cut out the
power supply, carefully open hot water taps to
let out any excess pressure and change the
thermostat.
If there is any water loss:
• Ensure that the water heater is situated in a
well ventilated location, otherwise any conden-
sation that might occur could be mistaken for
water loss.
• Control that the pipe fittings are water tight.
• Check that no water from the outside drips on
to the water heater. Should water loss still
persist, the water heater should be changed.
If coolant comes out of the fresh water
taps and vice versa:
• Ensure that water heater coil does not leak. If
perforated, the water heater must be replaced.
If the pressure relief valve releases water:
• Ensure that pressure relief/non-return valve
tube or pipe fittings do not leak.
• If water loss is minimal (about a glassful every
thermal cycle) and only occurs during the
operation of the water heater, there should not
be any problem. The pressure relief valve
normally leaks when it compensates for any
pressure increase inside the water heater. The
installation of a suitable expansion tank will
completely eliminate this inconvenience.
• If the water loss is larger and continual, check
whether there is any foreign matter lodged in
the valve seat of the pressure relief valve. If
dripping continues, replace the valve.
If the current limit-switch or cut out dif-
ferential switch has released during the
electrical operation of the water heater:
• Check the electric line and thermostat connec-
tions.
• Check whether there are any current leakages
to earth from the electric heating element. If
there are, change the heating element as
indicated under 'Maintenance'.
To check whether there are any current leakages
to earth, disconnect electric wires and remove the
thermostat as indicated under 'Maintenance'. With
an ohmmeter check that the resistance, between
earth (water heater tank) and the element head, is
infinite (no contact between the two). If it is not
infinite, replace electric heating element.
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