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E3D-v6 Assembly
From E3D-Online
Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour. Please follow the instructions on this
page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly.
Contents
1 What's in the box
What's in the box
Metal Parts
1 x Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and 3mm Bowden versions)
1 x Stainless Steel Heatbreak
1 x Aluminium Heater Block
1 x Brass Nozzle (0.4mm)
Electronics
1 x 100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor with
100mm x Silicone Fibreglass Sleeving
1 x 12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge
1 x 12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan
1 x High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - for Thermistor (150mm) OR
1m of Thermistor wire (with 0.1" connector when available)
4 x 0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free Wire Joins
Fixings
4 x Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach the fan to the fan duct
1 x M3x3 socket dome screw and M3 washer to clamp thermistor
1 x M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp the heater block around the heater cartridge
1 x Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC)
Bowden Versions also Include
800mm of appropriately sized PTFE tubing.
1 x Screw in Coupler for extruder end of tubing.

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Summary of Contents for E3D Online V6

  • Page 1: Table Of Contents

    E3D-v6 Assembly From E3D-Online Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour. Please follow the instructions on this page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly. Contents 1 What's in the box...
  • Page 2: What You Need

    Connecting 12v parts to 24v power can result in overheating, component damage or fire. The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. The temperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. If you only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heater cartridge “MAX_PWM”...
  • Page 3: Thermistor

    Break screwed into block level with top of block. Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot. A first, slight tightening of the nozzle against the break.
  • Page 4: Heater Cartridge

    Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw and washer. Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening. Thermistor being clamped into place. It should look like this when clamped. Thermistor clamped into place.
  • Page 5: Thermistor Wire

    HeaterBlock tightened around cartridge. Thermistor Wire Strip the ends of the red and black thermistor cable and put a length of heatshrink over each wire. Stripped wire with heatshrink. Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg, if you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier to push them over the wires later.
  • Page 6: Ptfe Tubing (Where Applicable)

    Crushing the ferrule. Slide the heatshrink down over the now crushed ferrules and shrink into place with a heat source such as a soldering iron, hot air gun or even a flame. Heatshrink being shrunk. Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other.
  • Page 7: 3Mm Bowden

    In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend. The photo below is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.
  • Page 8: Configure Firmware (Easy!)

    Fan with screws inserted. Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables. It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in.
  • Page 9: Marlin

    Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. If you have a non-12V system see this forum post. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.
  • Page 10: Final Tightening

    Doing the final tightening of the nozzle. Usage Guidance In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of: Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance.

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