1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. XFactory Manuals
  4. Motorized Toy Car
  5. X-6 CUBED
  6. Instruction manual

XFactory X-6 CUBED Instruction Manual

K 030 conversion kit
Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
X – 6 CUBED
K 030 CONVERSION KIT
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Version 1.0
X – 6 CUBED
CONVERSION KIT
K 030 X – 6 Cubed
First Pages
Page 1
Instruction Manual v1.0

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the X-6 CUBED and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for XFactory X-6 CUBED

Summary of Contents for XFactory X-6 CUBED

  • Page 1 X – 6 CUBED K 030 CONVERSION KIT INSTRUCTION MANUAL Version 1.0 X – 6 CUBED CONVERSION KIT K 030 X – 6 Cubed First Pages Page 1 Instruction Manual v1.0...

  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS B 4.2 Disassembly………………………………………………………..Bag A – Transmission Assembly………………..……………………….. 11 Bag B – Nose Piece………………………………………………………... 21 Bag C – Shock Tower ……………………………………………………… 24 Bag D – Transmission Installation…….…………………………………... 26 Bag E – Rear Suspension ……………………………………. Bag F – Finish It up………………………………………………………… 34 Parts List……………………………………………………………………..

  • Page 3: First Things First

    X – 6 CUBED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FIRST THINGS FIRST A) ASSUMPTIONS These instructions assume several things: 1. You have at least some experience building R/C cars. These instructions are not written for a first-timer. 2. You have the usual assortment of R/C tools. 3.
  • Page 4 CARE AND FEEDING OF CARBON FIBER Throughout your Kit we have deliberately cut the bolt holes in the CF parts on the small side for a good tight fit. Thread them up through and then give an extra twist or two so they will be snug but free. Carbon fiber is a laminate, much like plywood, and is produced similar to laying up fiberglass.
  • Page 5 SOME IMPORTANT INFORMATION We are not perfect. If you experience the slightest difficulty assembling your X – 6 Cubed, either because a part does not fit properly or because you have difficulty with the instructions, please contact us immediately. Even if you figure out what needs to be done, or make a modification that allows the part to fit, we want to make changes that help the next person.

  • Page 6: B 4.2 Disassembly

    X – 6 CUBED INSTRUCTIONS B 4.2 DISASSEMBLY GENERAL You are too experienced to require photos for these first few instructions. Remove the body. We suggest you store the clips by putting them back in the body mounts. Remove the wheels. Again, store the nuts by putting them back on the axles.
  • Page 7 From beneath the chassis, remove the two flat head screws which hold the bumper to the chassis & bulkhead. Save the bumper and screws for re-use. Still working beneath the chassis, remove the two flat head screws which hold the bulkhead to the chassis. Save these screws for re-use.
  • Page 8 C.V.D.S & HUB CARRIERS Remove the rear shock assemblies. From each side, take out the bottom bolt, then remove the plastic nut from the top. Save shocks and their bolts & nuts. Don’t lose the aluminum bushing in the bottom shock eyelet! Now remove the upper mounting bolts and bushings.
  • Page 9 TRANSMISSION Remove the gear cover. Two flat head screws from the bottom and two button heads from the top. Save the flat head screws for Inst. # E14 and the button heads for # Remove the two 5/8” flat head screws that hold the wing mounts to the shock tower and save the screws for Inst.
  • Page 10 Remove the 5-40 nut which secures the slipper assembly, and pull off the nut, spring retainer, spring, outer slipper plate, slipper housing assembly with pads, spur gear, inner slipper pad, and inner slipper plate. All slipper parts will be re-used. Remove the three long cap head screws (long arrows) from the transmission and take off the motor plate and wing mount.

  • Page 11: Ball Differential

    BAG A TRANSMISSION BALL DIFFERENTIAL The B 4.2 and 4.1 diff uses metric outdrives and the X Factory 4-Gear transmission uses U.S. measurement, so we’ll re-build the whole thing now. If your donor truck is a B4, you have the U.S. sized outdrives & bearings. They fit the 4-Gear. Hold the outdrive with the T-nut (AE6575) in one hand and insert the Allen driver through the white protector cap (AE6575) and into the head of the diff thrust bolt (AE6573).
  • Page 12 Check your diff rings for wear. If they’re not new, there will be a thin line on the face of each one where the balls run. Darker line = more wear. You can use both sides of the rings, so if one side has not been used, flip them over.
  • Page 13 Install the spring and T-nut into the male outdrive. Be certain the lugs on the T-nut engage properly in the slots of the outdrive. Set aside until A10. Check the thrust washers for wear. They wear just as the diff rings do, and are also reversible.
  • Page 14 A10) Now slide the male outdrive from step A7 into the female outdrive assembly from step A9. Slide the diff bolt through the male outdrive and screw it into the T-nut. Do not tighten very much yet. See A11 below. A11) As the bolt begins to tighten, stop every revolution or two, remove the wrench, and rotate the two outdrives at the same time in opposite directions while pushing them together (left photo).
  • Page 15 ASSEMBLE THE X – 6 Cubed TRANSMISSION A13) Remove the transmission case (XF5001) from Bag A and separate the two halves. Note the small round ejector pin bosses on the mounting tabs. You may wish to file these flat for ease of installation in the truck.
  • Page 16 A16) Gather together the idler gear from the B 4.2 (AE9360) along with its 3/16” X 3/8” bearings (XF6202) and shaft (XF5201) along with the same parts from bag A so you have two gears, two shafts, and four bearings. Install a bearing into each side of both idler gears.
  • Page 17 transmission should be free and smooth. A19) Install the remaining 3/16” X 3/8” rubber seal bearing and 3/8” X 5/8” bearing into their bosses in the right transmission case half. (long arrows) There is a small hole in the case where the top shaft bearing goes so you can use a hex wrench to push out the bearing.
  • Page 18 A21) Install the 4-40 X 3/8” cap head bolt (XF6001) in the lower corner of the trans case, just finger tight for now to hold things together. A22) The X Factory 4-Gear motor plate (XF1234) has four “extra” holes. Two of them (left photo, short arrows) are used to install the optional #5050 heatsink and fan.
  • Page 19 SLIPPER INSTALLATION A24) Install a slipper plate (XF5530) onto the top shaft, flat side out. The flats inside the plate will key to the flats on the shaft. A25) Put the inner slipper pad (AE9603) on the spur gear (AE9651) (left & center photos).
  • Page 20 A27) Install the spring (AE9739) on the shaft so it fits into the slipper plate’s hub, then place the black retainer (AE7486) over the spring, flat side up. Install the 5-40 nut (XF6074) to hold it all together, tightening until there is one thread of the shaft showing.

  • Page 21: Bag B - Nose Piece

    BAG B NOSE PIECE Place a 5/8” flat head screw (XF 6024) you saved from inst. # 12 up from the bottom of the chassis in the second hole from the front at the outside of right side of the chassis (short arrow). Place a 7/8” flat head screw (XF 6026) from Bag B up through the front outside hole (long arrow).
  • Page 22 Now repeat the first four steps for the left side. Let’s do both sides together now. Put the Lower Nose Bridge Stiffeners (XF 1535) over the 7/8” flat heads. They should fit snugly against the top deck support (short arrow). Guess what? Now the Top Nose Bridge Stiffeners (XF 1536) Again, nice and snug against the top deck...
  • Page 23 B10) Back to the top. Put the 13/32” Stand-Offs (XF 6803) on the two front screws (long arrows). They should snuggle up with the top stiffener (short arrow). If you are using thread lock, put a drop in the stand-off here. Hold them with a pliers and tighten from the bottom.

  • Page 24: Rear Shock Tower

    BAG C REAR SHOCK TOWER Install the wing mounts first. You will need the Rear Shock Tower (XF3315), Wing Mounts (XF 3500), and Wing Mount Spacers (XF 6806). Place two 4-40 X 5/8” cap head screws (long arrows) through the left wing mount holes.
  • Page 25 Place the Ball Stud Lands (XF 3800) on the shock tower, then install finger tight with the 5/8” flat head screws (XF 6024) If you use thread lock, put a drop now in the lower tapped holes of the ball stud lands to prepare for inst.

  • Page 26: Bag D Transmission Installation

    BAG D TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION Place two 3/8” flat head screws (XF 6022) up from under the chassis, put the 2mm Hinge Pin Brace Spacer (XF 3262) over the screws, and install the Hinge Pin Brace (XF 3260) with the bushing holes (arrows) facing back.
  • Page 27 Place two 3/8” flat head screws up from under the chassis for the Motor plate support bracket. Put one 0.030” spacer (XF 3250) on each screw, and install the motor plate support bracket (XF 1130). Leave these screws finger tight for now. Note that the bracket is off-set to the left. Place the bulkhead and shock tower assembly into the rear of the transmission cradle and secure with...
  • Page 28 Place a transmission shim over each of the 1” bolts that come up through the bulkhead. For this photo we have used 0.060” shims so they show well. This is strictly for purposes of clarity. It is important that all four shims be the same size on your X –...
  • Page 29 D12) Put a washer over the other 4-40 X 3/8” bolt and secure the right front of the transmission. Make sure the shim is still in there! Make this bolt finger tight for now. D13) One last check now to be sure the correct shims stayed under the transmission at the rear, then put #4 flat washers over the 1”...

  • Page 30: Bag E Rear Suspension

    BAG E REAR SUSPENSION Take the rear control arms (XF3012) from Bag E and remove the gurfelmurgles (arrows). Many drivers touch the arms with a file here. We’ll do the right side first. Take the C.V.A. out of the hub. The bearings can stay in the hub, though we suggest you clean and inspect them now.
  • Page 31 Again, the right side first. Insert a hinge pin you saved into a control arm from the rear. Consult the Set-Up Sheet and Tuning section to determine your hub spacing. Here we have the two shims on the rear for hubs forward.
  • Page 32 Install the hinge pins (XF 6141) in the bushings. E10) Check the Set-Up Sheet and Tuning Section to determine how you will space your control arms on the hinge pin. Slide at least one thin shim over the hinge pin to prevent friction between the control arm and hinge pin brace.
  • Page 33 E14) Place the shims under the toe-in bar and secure with two 4-40 X 1/2” flat head screws saved from inst # 11. The photos show one of each shim, or 0.090”. E15) Using the hardware you saved from the rear shocks, install the upper shock mounting bolt in the tower.

  • Page 34: Bag F Finish It Up

    BAG F FINISH IT UP Place two 3/8” flat head screws up through the two holes at the right rear corner of the chassis. Remove the bag of Chassis Shims (XF 1012) from Bag F and place one of the medium-size shims over the two bolts from F1 above.
  • Page 35 Place four 4-40 X 3/8” flat head screws up through the chassis, one at each corner of the battery compartment, and put a 0.060” shim on each bolt. Install the four 7/8” Stand-Offs (XF 6802). If you are into thread lock, a drop in each one.
  • Page 36 SADDLE PACK Use the battery spacer foam (AE 9238) from your B 4.2 between the two saddle batteries to space them out to the edge of the battery compartment. For pack forward (left photo) use only the rear two hex stand-offs, adjusting them to hold the battery tight against the front of the battery compartment.
  • Page 37 F11) We are showing you the top deck here because it makes sense to us this way, but you may want to install the electronics before the top deck. Place the smallest two chassis shims on the front top deck supports (left photo) and place the top deck over its supports.
  • Page 38 F14) If your servo is wide, it may foul the corners of the nose piece. Not to worry, just use a file or a rotary tool to remove about 1/8” of material from raised corner of the nose piece where indicated. We have been doing this for several years and there is lots of material here, so you won’t weaken it.

  • Page 39: Parts List

    PARTS LIST PART # DESCRIPTION 1002 Nose Piece 1012 Chassis Spacers, CF 1013 Chassis, CF, X – 6 Cubed 1130 Motor Plate Support Bracket 1229 Battery Strap, CF, X – 6 Cubed 1234 Motor Plate, Lowered 1311 Top Deck Support, Rear 1313 Bulkhead, Rear, Tower Forward 1400...
  • Page 40 FINAL SET-UP AND PREP ELECTRONICS Now that the car is built and electronics installed, it’s time to make certain it runs straight and well. First, familiarize yourself with the set-up procedures of your various electronics: how to bind the receiver to the radio transmitter, how to set the speed controller to the radio, and how to adjust the steering settings on your transmitter.

  • Page 41: Race Prep

    BREAK IN THE DIFF We’re ready to run now, right? Not Quite. The next thing to do is break in the differential. This is exceedingly important to the car’s performance and diff life. With the car all prepped as above, install a charged battery and put the car back on its stand with the rear wheels off the ground.
  • Page 42 RACE PREPARATION The 5 Ps: Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance. You want a well-built car when you arrive at the track, but top drivers also have a routine before every run to make sure the car’s settings are consistent each time out. This makes sure the car on the track is indeed what you want, and any performance difference is the result of deliberate changes.

  • Page 43: Tuning Section

    TUNING SECTION ABOUT ADJUSTMENTS R/C race cars, in general, are some of the most adjustable racing machines of any scale. What’s really amazing is just how easy and quick it is to make all of our changes: remove a ball stud to change roll center, one screw to change springs, or tape in some weight to change the car’s distribution.
  • Page 44 racing lines, while the rear end stays more planted. Watch out that you don’t slam into the motor guards of other cars through the infield! The initial disadvantage of the mid-motor concept was a lack of forward bite out of corners, especially on slick tracks.
  • Page 45 slipper accordingly. On super high-bite surfaces, you’ll actually back the slipper off some to prevent the car from pulling hard wheelies. The nice thing about slippers is the ease of adjustment: have a friend take a ¼” wrench out to the track, and a few brief pit stops later you can have the car completely dialed.
  • Page 46 anti-squat; with approximately 0.120” (3 mm) of rear spacing the car has 0 , so every .030” (.74 mm) of spacers is a degree less. The thin white nylon shims included in the kit are .030”; the thicker ones are .060”. More anti-squat (rear of pins down) will generally take away rear side bite, add forward bite, and let the car spring more off jumps, generating a higher arc in the air.
  • Page 47 TRANSMISSION HEIGHT The X – 6 Cubed features X Factory’s adjustable-height transmission. While not the easiest adjustment, it’s a very powerful tuning tool to adapt the car to different surfaces. Included in Bag D (step D7) are several sets of transmission shims, four each of .030”, .060”, and .090”.

  • Page 48: Ride Height

    The rear tires are always run with toe-in, but the amount can be changed. It is adjusted by switching the rear tor-in block (installed in step E12). More rear toe-in (the 4 block) gives the car more forward traction but makes it harder to pivot the car. Less rear toe-in (the 3 block) will let the car flow through corners and pivot well, but at a loss of stability off the line and out of corners.
  • Page 49 flat front-to-rear, or perhaps a touch higher in the back. Lowering one end of the car will give that end a little more grip, but extreme differences can make it more difficult to control on the track. CAMBER LINKS Camber links are a complicated but effective adjustment on any R/C Car, and your X – 6 Cubed is no different.
  • Page 50 A final note about camber links: keep an eye on the balance of the front and rear links. Having a short link up front and a long one in the back can make the car feel less confident and consistent. If you find yourself liking a long rear link, try a longer front one to go with it, and vice versa.
  • Page 51 Increase pack with #3’s and 25 wt Decrease pack with #1’s and 35 wt and all three shocks would feel very similar on the bench (static damping). Increased pack is good over smooth tracks and very good for big jumps with flat landings; it also carries more corner speed.
  • Page 52 THAT BODY AND… WOW, IS THAT THE WING? The body on the X – 6 Cubed is different than most other “cab-forward bodies in several respects; it was designed primarily to create traction but still looks great!ll: The rear is upswept like all X Factory bodies to generate rear traction.

Table of Contents